1997 JAGUAR XJ6 low oil pressure

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Safety first!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Roadside repairs0•9
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
MUse a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
MAlways turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
MOnly attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided. On some models with energy-
absorbing bumpers there are no front towing
eyes; on these vehicles the tow-rope shouldbe attached around the rear arm of the lower
control arm so that the rope passes on the
inside of the coil spring.
MBefore being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
MNote that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
MOn models with power steering, greater-
than-usual steering effort will also be required.
MThe driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
MMake sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
MOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
MOn models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.
Caution: On models with automatic
transmission, if the vehicle is to be towed
with its rear wheels on the ground, and
extra 1.7 litres of fluid should be added to
the transmission, prior to towing (this extra
fluid must be drained before driving the
vehicle). Even with the extra fluid added to
the transmission, do not tow the vehicle at
speeds in excess of 30 mph (50 kmh) or for
a distance of greater than 15 miles (25 km).
If towing speed/distance are to exceed
these limits, then the vehicle must be
towed with its rear wheels off the ground.
Towing
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car and
to park it over some clean paper as an
aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•10Weekly checks
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;MKeeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
M
Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of
these.MIf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when
your brakes don't work properly. Checking
the level regularly will give advance warning of
this kind of problem.
MIf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Introduction
§3.6 litre engine
(others similar)
Viewed from right-hand side
AEngine oil level dipstick
BEngine oil filler cap
CCoolant expansion tank
DBrake fluid reservoir
EScreen washer fluid reservoir
FBattery
GPower steering fluid reservoir
Underbonnet check points

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly checks0•11
Engine oil level
Before you start
4Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oilModern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
tyre pressures”).
Car care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault finding”).
lAlways maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
If the oil level is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
The dipstick is located at the rear of the
engine on the left-hand side (see “Under-
bonnet check points” on page 0•10 for
exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick which should be between the
upper and lower marks. The “M” mark is
for use when checking the oil level after the
vehicle has been standing overnight; in this
case the oil level should be between the “M”
and upper level markings.Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add
the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Don’t overfill (see “Car care” left).
12
34
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.
Car care
lAdding coolant should not be necessary on
a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the
radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of
staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
lIt is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
Coolant level
The coolant level should be checked only
with the engine cold. The level is checked
in the expansion tank on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. Remove the
expansion tank pressure cap and check that
the coolant level is upto the base of filler neck.If topping up is necessary, add a mixture
of water and antifreeze to the expansion
tank until the coolant level is upto the
base of the filler neck. Once the level is
correct, securely refit the pressure cap.12

0•16Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Lubricants and fluids
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to API SG or higher (Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus,
Hypergrade, or 10W-40 Motor Oil)
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based (phosphate free) antifreeze
(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams Uni-Matic)
Differential:
Standard differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE EP90 to API GL5 (Duckhams 80W-90S Gear Oil)
Powr-lok differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE 90 to API GL5 (Duckhams Hypoid 90 DL)
Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)
Power steering (with separate reservoir) .dependent on year of manufacture and system fitted - refer to your Jaguar dealer
Power hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . Castrol or Jaguar hydraulic system mineral oil (HSMO) Refer to your Jaguar dealer
Tyre pressures
Note:Tyre pressures must always be checked with the tyres cold to ensure accuracy.
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Note:Jaguar state that the tyre pressures maybe reduced by up to 8 psi (0.6 bar) on the front tyres and 6 psi (0.4 bar) on the rear
tyres to increase the ride comfort. This is only allowable if the vehicle is not to be driven at speeds in excess of 100 mph (160 kmh);
if speeds are to exceed this, the tyres must be run at the specified pressures.
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The
higher the engine’s performance, the greater
the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as
well as optimise power and economy.
Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest
technical standards, meeting and exceeding
the demands of all modern engines.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine
which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly
cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special
additives, forms a molecular barrier between
moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat
build-up.
• Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based
coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion
chamber and pistons, where temperatures
may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists intransferring the heat to the engine cooling
system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow
over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.
• Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products
(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,
transporting them to the oil filter, and holding
the smallest particles in suspension until they
are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams
oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,
and on the road.
Engine oil types
Mineral oilsare the “traditional” oils,
generally suited to older engines and cars not
used in harsh conditions. Duckhams
Hypergrade Plus and Hypergradeare well
suited for use in most popular family cars.
Diesel oilssuch as Duckhams Dieselare
specially formulated for Diesel engines,
including turbocharged models and 4x4s.
Synthetic oilsare the state-of-the-art in
lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at
a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,
for use in ultra-high performance engines.
Semi-synthetic oilsoffer high performance
engine protection, but at less cost than full
synthetic oils. Duckhams QXRis an ideal choice
for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical
queries on lubricants,
call Duckhams Oils
on 0181 290 8207
Choosing your engine oil
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

16 Spark plug renewal
2
Refer to Section 4, renewing the plugs
regardless of their apparent condition.
17 Air cleaner element renewal
1
1The air filter is located inside a housing at
the left side of the engine compartment. To
remove the air filter, release the four spring
clips that secure the two halves of the air
cleaner housing together, then lift the cover
up and remove the air filter element (see
illustration).
Caution: Never drive the car with the air
cleaner removed. Excessive engine wear
could result and backfiring could even
cause a fire under the bonnet.
2Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner
housing.
3Place the new filter into the air cleaner
housing, making sure it seats properly.
4Refitting the cover is the reverse of removal.
18 Fuel filter renewal
2
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas-typeappliance (such as a water heater or
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
Since petrol is carcinogenic, wear latex
gloves when there’s a possibility of being
exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. Mop up any spills immediately
and do not store fuel-soaked rags where
they could ignite. The fuel system is under
constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are
to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in
the system must be relieved first (see
Chapter 4 for more information). When you
perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses and have a
Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
1The canister type filter is mounted
underneath the car on the passenger’s side
frame rail just in front of the left rear tyre.
2Depressurise the fuel system (refer to
Chapter 4), then disconnect the cable from
the negative terminal of the battery.
3On 1988 to 1990 models, detach the banjo
bolt from the outlet side of the filter then
remove the union from the inlet side of the
filter. Unscrew the filter mounting bolt and
remove the filter (see illustration).
4On 1991 to 1994 models, the fuel filter has
quick-disconnect fittings that do not require 8Clean and lubricate the handbrake cable,
along with the cable guides and levers. This
can be done by smearing some of the chassis
grease onto the cable and its related parts
with your fingers.
9Open the bonnet and smear a little chassis
grease on the bonnet latch mechanism. Have
an assistant pull the bonnet release lever from
inside the car as you lubricate the cable at the
latch.
10Lubricate all the hinges (door, bonnet,
etc.) with engine oil to keep them in proper
working order.
11The key lock cylinders can be lubricated
with spray graphite or silicone lubricant, which
is available at motor factors.12Lubricate the door weather-stripping with
silicone spray. This will reduce chafing and
retard wear.
15 Road test
1
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.
Steering and suspension
3Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4Drive the car, and check that there are no
unusual vibrations or noises.
5Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6Check the performance of the engine and
transmission, listening for any unusual noises.7Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
8Check that the gear changing action of the
transmission is smooth and progressive and
that the drive is taken up smoothly from a
standing start.
Braking system
9Make sure that the car does not pull to one
side when braking, and that the wheels do not
lock prematurely when braking hard.
10Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
11Check that the handbrake operates
correctly without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the car stationary on a
slope.
12Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then
start the engine. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to
run for at least two minutes, and then switch it
off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it
should be possible to detect a hiss from the
servo as the pedal is depressed. After about
four or five depressions, no further hissing
should be heard, and the pedal should feel
considerably harder.
1•14Every 7500 miles or 6 months
17.1 Detach the clips and separate the
cover, then slide the filter element out of
the housing
3261 Jaguar XJ6
14.6 Grease fittings for the rear
driveshafts are located in the centre
on each U-joint
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km) or 12 months

30 Coolant renewal
2
Warning: Do not allow engine
coolant (antifreeze) to come in
contact with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never
leave antifreeze laying around in an open
container or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by it’s
sweet smell and may drink it. Check with
local authorities about disposing of used
antifreeze. Your local authority may have
collection centres which will see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the
antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of
rust and corrosion, which can impair the
performance of the cooling system and
cause engine damage. When the cooling
system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator
cap should be checked and renewed if
necessary.
Draining
2Apply the handbrake and block the wheels.
If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several
hours to allow the engine to cool down before
beginning this procedure.
3Remove the expansion tank pressure cap
(see illustration).
4Move a large container under the radiator
drain to catch the coolant. Then using a largescrewdriver, open the radiator drain plug and
direct the coolant into the container (see
illustration).
27 Differential oil renewal
2
1Drive the car for several miles to warm up
the differential lubricant, then raise the car
and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and
the required tools under the car.
3Remove the check/fill plug from the
differential. If necessary refer to Section 9 for
the check/fill plug location.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
use a ratchet and socket to loosen the drain
plug (see illustration). Note:A special pipe
plug socket may be required to complete this
procedure.
5Once loosened, carefully unscrew it with
your fingers until you can remove it from the
case. Since the lubricant will be hot, wear a
rubber glove to prevent burns.
6Allow all of the oil to drain into the pan, then
replace the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 9 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the fill plug and tighten it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
28 Brake fluid renewal
2
Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling or
pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has
been standing open or is more than oneyear old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from
the air. Excess moisture can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
1At the specified time intervals, the brake
fluid should be drained and renewed. Since
the brake fluid may drip or splash when
pouring it, place plenty of rags around the
master cylinder to protect any surrounding
painted surfaces.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified type of brake fluid.
3Remove the cap from the master cylinder
reservoir.
4Using a hand suction pump or similar
device, withdraw the fluid from the master
cylinder reservoir.
5Add new fluid to the master cylinder until it
rises to the base of the filler neck.
6Bleed the brake system as described in
Chapter 9 at all four brakes until new and
uncontaminated fluid flows from the bleed
screw.
7Refill the master cylinder with fluid and
check the operation of the brakes. The pedal
should feel solid when depressed, with no
sponginess.
Warning: Do not drive the car if
you are in any doubt about the
braking system.
1•20Every 30 000 miles or 2 years
27.4 The differential drain plug (arrowed)
is accessible through a hole located in the
middle of the differential support brace
30.3 Push the expansion tank pressure
cap downward and rotate anti-clockwise -
never remove it when the engine is hot!
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
29 Handbrake shoes check
2
1Remove the rear discs and inspect the
handbrake shoes as described in Chapter 9. If
the shoes are worn or damaged they must be
renewed.Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

attached to the bolt threaded into the
front of the crankshaft. Apply pressure on
the bolt in a clockwise direction only.
Never turn the bolt anti-clockwise.
b) A remote starter switch, which may save
some time, can also be used. Follow the
instructions included with the switch.
Once the piston is close to TDC, use a
socket and ratchet as described in the
previous paragraph.
c) If an assistant is available to turn the
ignition switch to the Start position in
short bursts, you can get the piston close
to TDC without a remote starter switch.
Make sure your assistant is out of the car,
away from the ignition switch, then use a
socket and ratchet as described in
Paragraph a) to complete the procedure.
5Note the position of the terminal for the
number one spark plug lead on the distributor
cap. If the terminal isn’t marked, follow the
plug lead from the number one cylinder spark
plug to the cap.
6Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark
on the distributor body directly under the
number one terminal (see Chapter 5).
7Detach the cap from the distributor and set
it aside (see Chapter 1 if necessary).
8Turn the crankshaft until the small triangle
cast into the front edge of the crankshaft
sensor ring is aligned with the bottom edge of
the timing pointer located at the front of the
engine(see illustration).
9Look at the distributor rotor - it should be
pointing directly at the mark you made on the
distributor body. If so, you are at TDC for
number 1 cylinder.
10If the rotor is 180° off, the number one
piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
11To get the piston to TDC on the
compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one
complete revolution (360°) clockwise. The
rotor should now be pointing at the mark
on the distributor. When the rotor is pointing
at the number one spark plug lead terminal in
the distributor cap and the ignition timing
marks are aligned, the number one piston is atTDC on the compression stroke. Note:If it’s
impossible to align the ignition timing marks
when the rotor is pointing at the mark on the
distributor body, the timing chain may have
jumped the teeth on the pulleys or may have
been installed incorrectly.
12After the number one piston has been
positioned at TDC on the compression stroke,
TDC for any of the remaining cylinders can be
located by turning the crankshaft and
following the firing order. Mark the remaining
spark plug lead terminal locations on the
distributor body just like you did for the
number one terminal, then number the marks
to correspond with the cylinder numbers. As
you turn the crankshaft, the rotor will also
turn. When it’s pointing directly at one of the
marks on the distributor, the piston for that
particular cylinder is at TDC on the
compression stroke.
4 Valve cover-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, makesure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Detach the PCV hose from the valve cover
(see illustration).
3Remove the spark plug leads from the
spark plugs, handling them by the boots and
not pulling on the wires.
4Remove the valve cover mounting screws,
then detach the valve cover and gasket from
the cylinder head. If the valve cover is stuck
to the cylinder head, bump the end with a
wood block and a hammer to jar it loose. If
that doesn’t work, try to slip a flexible putty
knife between the cylinder head and valve
cover to break the seal.
Caution: Don’t pry at the valve cover-to-
cylinder head joint or damage to the
sealing surfaces may occur, leading to oil
leaks after the valve cover is reinstalled.
Refitting
5The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and valve cover must be clean when the valve
cover is installed. If there’s residue or oil on
the mating surfaces when the valve cover is
installed, oil leaks may develop.
6Apply RTV sealant around the two half-
circle rubber plugs at the rear of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
7Using a new gasket and spark plug tube
seals, refit the valve cover (see illustration).
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3
2A
4.6 Apply RTV sealant to the half-circle
plugs and insert them into the cylinder
head before refitting the valve cover4.7 Press the valve cover gasket into the
groove around the valve cover and fit a
new set of spark plug tube seals (arrowed)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 3.8 Align the mark on the crankshaft sensor ring (arrowed) with
the bottom edge of the pointer on the front cover
4.2 Disconnect the PCV hose (arrowed) from the valve cover, then
pull the spark plug leads out by their boots, not the leads