1997 GMC SAVANA headlamp

Here are some tips on night driving.
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Drive defensively.
Don’t drink and drive.
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
Since you can’t see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
headlamps can light up only
so much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you’re tired, pull off the road
in a safe place and
rest.
Night Vision
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as
we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old
driver may require at least twice as much light to see the
same thing at night as
a 20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect your night
vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright
sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have
less trouble adjusting to night.
But if you’re
driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut
down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot
of things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching
headlamps. It can take
a second or two, or even several
seconds, for your eyes
to readjust to the dark. When
you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who
doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with
misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring
directly into the approaching headlamps.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle
clean
-- inside and out. Glare at night is made much
worse by dirt on
the glass. Even the inside of the glass
can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes
lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would,
making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that your headlamps light up far less
of a
roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your
eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly
lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be
checked regularly for proper aim,
so should your eyes
be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night
blindness
-- the inability to see in dim light -- and
aren’t even aware of it.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road
is wet enough and you’re
going fast enough. When your vehicle
is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can
if your
tires do not have much tread
or if the pressure in one or
more
is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on
the road.
If you can see reflections from trees, telephone
poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the
water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when
it is raining.
1 Driving Through Deep Standing Water
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles
or standing water, water can come in through
your engine’s air intake and badly damage your
engine. Never drive through water that is slightly
lower than the underbody
of your vehicle. If you
can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive
through them very slowly.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
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Turn on your low-beam headlamps -- not just
your parking lamps
-- to help make you more visible
to others.
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room
ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted
by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See
“Tires” in the Index.)
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you
run the engine, make it go a
little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get
and it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged.
You will
need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your
headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. If you have a
diesel engine you may have to
run it at a higher speed
to get enough heat.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve
the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or
so until help comes.
Loading Your Vehicle
COLD TIRE PRESSURE
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The Certificatioflire label is found on the rear edge
of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your
original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain
the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR
includes the weight
of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel
and cargo.
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Headlamps
You have either a sealed beam headlamp system or a
composite system.
Sealed Beam Headlamps
2. Unplug the lamp assembly from the connector.
3. Install a new headlamp.
4. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the headlamp.
1. Remove the four screws from the headlamp retainer.
Pull the retainer
out and set it aside.
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Composite Headlamps
1. Open the hood.
2. Locate the rear side of each of the headlamps.
3. Without removing the headlamp assembly itself,
remove the bulb assembly from the back of
the
headlamp on the driver’s side by turning the bulb
counterclockwise one quarter
turn.
4. On the passenger side, turn the bulb clockwise one
quarter turn. Also,
to remove the bulb on the
passenger side,
you will need to move the battery.
5. Install a new bulb. Do not handle the glass part of
the bulb.
6. Reverse Steps 3 through 4 to reinstall the headlamp.
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L dT’^Y:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel
bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be
dangerous.
It could affect the braking and
handling
of your vehicle, make your tires lose
air and make you lose control. You could have a
collision in which you or others could be injured.
Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and
wheel nuts for replacement.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper
height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire
chain clearance to the body and chassis.
Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced
on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after
100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160,l 600 and
10 000 km)
of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque”
in the Index.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for
more information.
Used Replacement WP-?ls
A CAUTIP’
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is
dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or
how far it’s been driven.
It could fail suddenly
and cause an accident.
If you have to replace a
wheel, use
a new GM original equipment wheel.
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Electrical System
Add-on Electrical Equipment
I NOTICE:
Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle
unless you check with your dealer first. Some
electrical equipment can damage your vehicle
and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your
warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment
can keep other components from working as
they should.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to
add anything electrical
to your vehicle, see “Servicing
Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
Headlamp Wiring
The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in
the lamp switch. An electrical overload will cause the
lamps to flicker on and off, or in some cases
to remain
off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked
right away.
Windshield Wiper Fuses
The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit
breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy
snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools.
Although the circuit is protected from electrical
overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc., may cause
wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow
from the the windshield before using the windshield
wipers. If the overload is caused by some electrical
problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.
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Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center
The fuse block is on the driver's side of the engine
compartment at the rear.
[-I
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[T]
Name
BLOWER
ABS
Circuits Protected
Blower Motor
Electronic Brake Control Module
Name
IGN-B
IGN-A
BATT
LIGHTING
RR BLOWER
ENG-
1
A/C SPARE
AUX A
AUX-B
RH-HDLP
Circuits Protected
Ignition Switch
Starter Relay, Ignition Switch
Instrument Panel Fuse Block
Instrument Panel Fuse Block,
Headlamp Switch
Rear Auxiliary Blower
Motor Relays
Heated
02 Sensors, Mass Air
Flow Sensor, EGR Valve
Solenoid, Evap Canister Purge
Valve, Crankshaft Position Sensor,
Secondary Air Injection Relay
(Diesel), Water in Fuel Sensor
(Diesel), Fuel Heater (Diesel),
Glowplug Relay (Diesel),
Wastegate Solenoid (Diesel)
Air Conditioning Clutch Relay
Spare Fuses
Upfitter Provisions
Upfitter Provisions
Right-hand Headlamp
(Export Only)
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