1997 FIAT PUNTO Set time

Roadside repairs 0.9
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs Investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.
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Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids aro poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of 0 fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park It over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
Antifreeze
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline oeposit like this.
Oil from filter
A leak occurring at a wheel Is almost certainly brake fluid.
Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the drivoshafts.
Power steering fluid
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
When ail else falls, you may llnd yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances. OIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: • Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. • Always turn the Ignition key to the ON position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. • Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.
• Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. • Note that greater-then-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. • On models with power steering, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. • The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. • Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. • Only dnve at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.
Towing
• On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply(see Chapter 7B. Section 1). If In doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. • The front towing eye is supplied as part of the tool kit stored in the luggage compart-ment. To fit the eye pnse out the plastic cover from the front or rear bumper using a screwdriver, then screw the eye onto the threaded pin as tightly as possible.

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Warning: To prevent damage to the catalytic converter, e vehicle must not be push'started, or started by towing, when the engine is at operating temperature. Use jump leads (see Jump starting).

Weekly checks 0.13
Brake fluid level
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Warning: • Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouting it.
• Do not use fluid that has been standing open for so mo time, as It absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
Mpmna * Make sure that your car Is I on level ground. HiNTi * Th* ffftt 'eve/ In the reservoir will drop slightly as

I

The MIN and MAX marks are indicated on the side of Ihe reservoir The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.

2

11 topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.
the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the "MIN" mark.
Safety First! • If the reservoir requires repeated topping* up this is an indication of a fluid leak somev/here In the system, which should be investigated immediately.
• If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, taking care not to damage the level switch float. Inspect the reservoir: if the fluid Is dirty Ihe hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1A or 1B).

4

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components, Use only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, secureiy refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.
Power steering fluid level
Before you start: •Park the vehicle on level ground. • Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. •
The
engine should be turned off.

I

The reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the bulkhead in the engine compartment. Wipe clean the area around the reservoir filler cap then unscrew It from the reservoir.
For the check to be accurate, the steering must HlHT; not be turned once the engine has been stopped.


2

Dip the fluid with the reservoir cap/ dipstick (do not screw the cap into position). When the engine is cold, the fluid level should be up to Ihe MIN mark (B): when hot. it should be on the MAX mark (A).
Safety First! • The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

3

When topping-up, use the specified type of lluid and do noi overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, securely refit the cap.

o»i4 Weekly checks
Tyre condition and pressure
l( is very important that tyres are In good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre (allure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style • harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will ail produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating' the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing ail four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded In the tread before they penetrate the tyro to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
r
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so (hat its point of penetration is marked. Then Immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage (n the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewails. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the Inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage, Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by •kerbing"1 whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel Is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.
New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will v/ear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is fett only through the steering, then II Is likely that |ust the front wheels need balancing. H, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car. the rear wheels could be out of balance. Whoel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.
-j Tread Depth • visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands {8}, which wiU appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewail (A).
Tyre tread wear patterns
2 Tread Depth * manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
2 Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately alter the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result Tyre pressures are shown on page 0*18.
Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear
Underinflatlon {wear an both sides) Under-lnflatton will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side] Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!
Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyro tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures
It you sometimes have (o inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified tor maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most lyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or 'tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of I he treed which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Maintenance procedures - petrol models ia./
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal Ja*
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather all Ihe necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as It
will
drain better, and more built-up sludge will
be
removed with it. Tske care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants end other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it Is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly Improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that
the
vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug Is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using an Allen key. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove
the plug
completely (see Haynes Hint). 4 Allow some time for the old oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the
container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit
(MB
HiNT '
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump white unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream
of
oil Issuing from the sump runs into the container, net up your sleeve.
the plug. Tighten the plug securely. 6 It the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under tho oil filter, which is located on the front right-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way. Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully remove It. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the ground (if applicable).
3.6 Oil filter location (viewed from above)
11 Remove the dipstick, then pull out the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour In half the specified quantity of oil first, then wail a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes: check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before (he pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle In the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to General repair procedures in the reference Sections of this manual.
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
4 Brake warning lamp ag operation check J§
1 With the ignition key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake ftuid reservoir cap (see illustration). 2 As the button is depressed, the brake warning lamp on the instrument panel should Illuminate. 3 If the lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity tester, then refer to Chapter 12, Section 5, wd check the instrument panel bulb.
5 Front brake pad check
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels, 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the friction material of the brake pads on both front brakes- This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper (see illustration). 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads 4.1 Depress the button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap

ia«8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
5.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then
bIbo
be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four psds must tie renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground
6 Underbody sealant check
I
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively position the car over an inspection pit. 2 Check the underbody. wheel housings and side sills for rust and/or damage to the under-body sealant. If evident, repair as necessary.
7 Hose and fluid leak check ^
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1 Visually Inspect the engine joint laces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil (liter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that.
A leak In the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust~coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak
over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by refemng to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips ore In place and In good condition, Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious probioms In the luture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated, Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all 'he cooling system components {hoses. |olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the coolmg system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gaskel with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank Is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deten orated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away Irom the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the fitter neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within tne engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Exhaust system check fe
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure thai all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the Joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often bo traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come Into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings Otherwise separate the joints {if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
9 Driveshaft gaiter check
9.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
1
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then s'owly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of Ihe outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber garters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see Illustration), If any damage or deterioration Is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of (he CV joints themselves by first holding (he driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints. wear In the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models 1A.13
20 Ignition system check
81
21 Engine management system check

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Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken when working on the system with the Ignition switched on. Persons with surgically-Implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep well clear of the ignition circuits, components and test oquipment. 1 The ignition system components should be checked for damage or deterioration as follows.
General component check 2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted. 3 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping
the end
fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
Ensure that the leads are i numbered before removing i them, to avoid confusion when refitting
4 Check Inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. if not, remove the lead again and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end
of the spark plug. 5 Using a clean rag, wipe Ihe emlre length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for bums, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, nor pull the lead lengthways - the conductor inside might break. 6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from the ignition coll. Again, pull only on the end fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same
manner as the spark plug end. Refit the bad securely on completion. 7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
ihe same
way. 8 if new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine. 9 Even with the ignition system In first-class condition, some engines may still occasionally experience poor starting attributable to damp ignition components. To disperse moisture, a water-dispersant aerosol should be liberally
Ignition timing -
check
and adjustment 10 Check the ignition timing as described In Chapter 58.
1 This check is part of the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, and Involves testing Ihe engine management system using special dedicated test equipment. Such testing will allow the test equipment to read any fault codes stored in the electronic control unit memory. 2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test te not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. 3 If access to suitable test equipment is not possible, make a thorough check of all ignition, fuel and emission control system components, hoses, and wiring, for security and obvious signs of damage. Further details of the fuet system, emission control system and ignition system can be .found In the relevant parts of Chapters 4 and 5.
22 Hinge and lock lubrication %
1
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate ail latches, locks and lock strikers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them If necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
23 Headlight beam adjustment % & ^
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beem-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of. and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door, 3 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car, then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marfcs on Ihe wall, if not. turn the adjustment screw located on the upper inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam
vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment.
24 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of all Instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.
Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain 6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there Is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action Is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual gearbox models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vsgue or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, check that all Ihe gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest, if any problems are found, they should be referred to a Flat dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a drtveshaft joint, In which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that It holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.

Maintenance procedures - petrol models 1A.15
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years
29 Rear brake shoe check
1 Chock the front wheels then Jack up the rear of Ihe car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Remove the rear roadwheels. 2 Using the inspection hole at the edge of the brake drum, check that the linings are not worn below Ihe minimum thickness given in the Specifications (see illustration). If necessary use a torch. 3 If the friction material on any shoe is worn down to the specified minimum thickness or
less,
all four shoes must be renewed as a set. 4 At the same time check for signs of brake
Kutti
leakage. 5 For a comprehensive check, the brake drum should be removed and cleaned. This
will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, and the condition of the brake drum itself to be fully examined (see Chapter 9). 6 Refit the lubber plugs then lower the car to the ground.
30 Timing belt renewal
Refer to Chapter 2A or 2B. Note: Although the norma/ interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (105 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the interval Is reduced on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use. ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individuaf owner. That being said, it is highly recommended to err on the side of safety, and
29.2 Check the thickness of the shoe friction material through the hole on the edge of the drum (arrowed)
renew the belt at 40 000 miles (60 000 km), bearing in mind the drastic consequences resulting from belt failure.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or 6 years
31 Emission control system check
Refer to Chapter 4D. A full check of the emissions control systems must be made by a Fiat dealer.
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km)
32 Manual transmission all renewal S
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface, if possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level and drain plugs are accessed from order
the
engine compartment. If necessary
Jack
ip the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacking and vehicle
support). 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/leval And drain plugs, which are on the front and bottom of the transmission (see illustration).
3 Using an Allen key. unscrew the filler/level plug and clean it. 4 Position a suitable container beneath the transmission, then use the Allen key to unscrew the drain plug. Allow the oil to completely drain. 5 Wipe clean the drain plug then refit and tighten It. 6 Fill the transmission with ihe correct grade and quantity of oil, referring to Section 26 when checking the level. Refit and lighten the filler/level plug. 7 Where applicable lower the vehicle to the ground. 32.2 Transmission drain plug location (viewed from under the vehicle)
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
33 Coolant renewal
I
Cooling system draining

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Warning: Walt until the engine Is cold before starting this pro-cedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come In contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Ndver
leave antifreeze lying around In an open container, or fn a puddle In the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but ant/freeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank cap with a wad of rag. and slowly turn the cap anticlockwise to relieve the pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to tum the cap until it can be removed. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub (see illustration). If the hose 33.2 Disconnecting the radiator bottom hose to drain tho coolant

Component location - diesel models ib-s
Rear underbody view - turbo diesel model
1
Fuel tank
2
Exhaust
tailpipe
and
silencer 3 Fear axle 4 Coil springs 5
Rear anti-roll bar
€
Handbrake cables
7
Rear brake pressure regulating valve
8
Rear shock
absorber
lower
mountings
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
This Chapter Is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vohicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with ihe mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service internals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will ctecover that many of the procedures can. and should, be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yoursetf before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out. then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.
2 Regular maintenance
1 If, from the time Ihe vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear Items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine wifl be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased, in such cases, additions! work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test {refer to Chapter 2C} will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious Internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a wa3te of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work Is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those usually required to Improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations a,I Clean, Inspect and test the battery (See Weekly checks). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Drain the water from the fuel filter (Section 4) d) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary dnvebeft(s) (Section 16). e) Check the condition of the air fitter, and renew if necessary (Section 13). f) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 8). g) Check the engine idle speed setting {Section 11). h) Check the exhaust gas emissions (Section 25). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:
Secondary operations All items listed under Pnmary operations, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A, Section 4). b) Renew the fuel filter (Section 12) and check the fuel system (see Chapter 4Q.