1997 FIAT PUNTO torque

11.15 Left-hand engine mounting viewed from below 9 lower the engine sufficiently to remove the mounting from the engine bracket. 10 Locate the new mounting in the engine bracket, refit the nut and washers and tighten securely. 11 Raise the engine and refit and tighten the mounting-to-body bolts. 12 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Left-hand mounting 13 If not already done, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see
Jacking
and vehicle support). 14 Place a trolley jack beneath the trans-mission. with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine/transmission. 15 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand mounting to the body (see Illustration). 16 Unscrew the nut securing the mounting to the transmission bracket and recover the washers. 17 Lower the transmission sufficiently to remove the mounting from the transmission bracket. 18 Locate the new mounting in the transmission bracket, refit the nut and washers and tighten securely. 19 Raise the engine and refil and tighten the mounting-to-body bolts. 20 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Rear mounting 21 If not already done, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see
Jacking
and vehicle support). 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody (see illustration). 23 Temporarily support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack. 24 Unbolt the rear mounting assembly from the transmission and withdraw from under the vehicle. 25 Unscrew the bolt and separate the bracket from the mounting. 28 Fitting the new mounting is a reversal of tha removal procedure.
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11
11.22 Rear engine mounting viewed from below
12 Sump -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negativo terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-ter 1B. Where applicable, remove the screws and lower the engine undertray away from the vehicle. 4 On turbo models disconnect the turbo-charger oil drain hose from the sump (see illustration). 5 Working around the outside of the sump, progressively loosen and withdraw the sump retaining bolts. 6 Break the joint by striking the sump with the palm of your hand, then lower the sump and withdraw it from underneath the vehicle. Recover and discard the sump gasket. 7 While the sump Is removed, take the opportunity to check the oil pump pick-up/strainer for signs of clogging. If necessary, clean or renew the strainer.
Refitting 8 Thoroughly clean the sump inside and out ensuring that all traces of gasket are removed from the mating surfaces of both the sump and the cylinder block/crankcase.
12.4 Turbocharger-to-sump oil drain hose
9 Ensure that the mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply a little grease to the surface of the sump. This will retain the gasket in position while refitting the sump. 10 Lay the new sump gasket In position on the sump mating surface, then offer up the sump and refit the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively lo the specified torque. 11 On turbo models reconnect the turbo-charger oil drain hose. 12 Lower the vehicle to the ground then refer to Chapter 1B and refill the engine with the specified grade and quantity of oil. 13 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
13 Oil pump and pick-up tube -removal, inspection and refitting
Removal 1 The oil pump Is mounted on the timing belt end of the cylinder block and is driven by flats on the crankshaft nose. Incorporated In the oil pump body is the crankshaft oil seal. 2 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4, and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 3 Remove the sump as described in Section 12. 4 Unscrew the bolts securing Ihe pick-up tube to the bottom of the oil pump. Also unscrew the bolt securing the tube to the No 2 main bearing cap. Withdraw the tube from the oil pump and crankcase. Recover the gasket (see illustrations).
13.4a Removing the oil pump pick-up tube... 13.4b ... and gasket

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Crankshaft Main bearing journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade
1
43.994 to 44.000 mm Grade 2 43.988 to 43.994 mm Grade 3 43.982 to 43.988 mm 1242 cc engine: Grade
1
47.994 to 48.000 mm Grade 2 47.988 to 47.994 mm Grade 3 47.982 to 47.988 mm Diesel engine: Grade 1 52.995 to 53.004 mm Grade 2 52.986 to 52.995 mm Crankpin Journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade A 38.001 to 38.008 mm Grade 8 37.995 to 38.001 mm Grade C 37.988 to 37.995 mm 1242 cc (8-valve) engine: Grade A 42.001 to 42.008 mm Grade 8 41.995 to 42.001 mm Grade C 41.988 to 41.995 mm 1242 cc <16-valve) engine: Grade A 41.990 to 42.008 mm Diesel engine: Grade A 50.796 to 50.805 mm Grade B 50.787 to 50.796 mm Main bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.025 to 0.049 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0.025 to 0.040 mm Dlese! engine 0.027 to 0.066 mm Big-end bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.024 to 0.062 mm 1242 cc (16-vaJve) engine 0.024 to 0.060 mm Diesel engine 0.026 to 0.063 mm Crankshaft endtloat: Petrol engines 0.055 to 0.265 mm Diesel engine 0.049 to 0.231 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf
t

Petrol engines Big-end bolt 41 30 Camshaft bearing caps (1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines: M8x 1.25 20 15 MB 10 7 Main bearing cap: Stage 1 40 30 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Diesel engines Big-end bolt: Stage 1 25 18 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 50° Camshaft bearing caps 19 14 Camshaft side mounts 19 14 Main bearing cap 113 83 Swirl chamber to head 118 87

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Valves and associated components 35 Examine the head of each vaive for pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear. Check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check lor any obvious indication that it Is bent. Look tor pits or excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 36 if the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the vaive stem diameter at several points using a micrometer. Any significant difference in the readings obtained Indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 37 If the valves are In satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-tight seal. If the seat is only tightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should nor be used, unless a seat is badly bumed or deeply pitted, If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be Inspected by an expert, to decldo whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert (where possible) is required. 38 Valve grinding Is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on blocks on a bench. 39 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-gnndtng compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
6.48 Compressing the vaive spring and fitting the split collets
them
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute tho grinding compound (see Illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation 40 If coarse grinding compound Is being used, v/ork only until a dull, matt even surface Is produced on both the valve seal and the valve, then wipe off tho used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring ol light grey malt finish Is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind-In the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 41 When all the valves have been ground-m, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembling the cylinder head. 42 Examine the valve springs for signs of damage ano discoloration, If possible compare the length of the springs with new ones and renew them if necessary. 43 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check ft tor squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost mar tension, obtain a complete new set of springs. It Is normal to renew the valve springs as a matter of course if a major overhaul is being earned out. 44 Renew (he valve stem oil seals regardless of their apparent condition.
Reassembly 45 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and insert the valves into their original locations
6.53 Tightening the camshaft bearing cap nuts (diesel engines)
6.46 Using a socket to press the valve stem seals onto the guides
(see illustration). If new valves are being fitted, insert them Into the locations to which they have been ground. 46 Refit the spring sea( then, working on the first valve, dip the new valve stem sesl in fresh engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it Is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly onto the guide (sea Illustration). 47 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat, then refit the spring retainer. 48 Compress the valve spring, and locate the split collets in the recess in the valve stem. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves (see illustration)
Use a dab o) grease to hold Uiejitts* the collets In position on the HlNT valve stem while the spring compressor is released.
49 With ail the valves Installed, place the cylinder head on blocks on the bench and, using a hammer and Interposed block ol wood, top the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 50 On diesel engines, refit the swirl chambers together with their washers and tighten the retaining collars to the specified torque. 51 Oil the cam followers and locate them In their correct positions in the cylinder head. Locate the shims In the cam followers making sure they are in their original positions. 52 Oil the journals then locate the camshaft m the cylinder head with the cam lobes of No 1 cylinder facing upwards (ie No 1 cylinder at TDC). 53 Refit the bearing caps In their correct positions and progressively tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque (sea illustration). On petrol engines locate the lubrication pipe on Ihe head and press in the oil feed stub before refitting the bolts. 54 On diesel engines fit a new oil sea) to the right-hand side mount, then refit both side mounts together with new gaskets, Tighten the right-hand mount bolts. Also refit the coolant cover and thermostat housing together with new gaskets (see illustrations).

Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the gudgeon pin. Slide it Into the piston and through the connecting rod small-end. Check that the piston pivots freely on the rod. then secure the gudgeon pin in position with two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is correctly located In Its groove in the piston.
Refitting and big-end bearing running ciearance check 27 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, it Is recommended that the big-end bearing running clearance is checked as follows. Big-end bearing running clearance check 28 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap. 29 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch In the connecting rod and cap. Take care not to touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers. If the onginal bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 30 One method is to refit the big-end bearing cap to Ihe connecting rod, ensuring that they are litted the correct way around, with the bearing shells in place. Wilh the cap retaining bolls correctly tightened, use an internal micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and Ihen subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the big-end beanng running clearance. 31 The second, and more accurate method is to use a product called Plasligauge. Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted then place a strand of Plastlgauge on each (cleaned) crankpin journal. 32 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the bg-end bearing caps, using the marks made or noted on removal to ensure that they are fitted the correct way around. 33 Tighten the beanng cap bolts taking care not to disturb the Plastlgauge or rotate the connecting rod dunng the tightening sequence. 34 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating the connecting rods. Use the scale pnnted on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the big-end bearing running clearance. 35 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be Ihe wrong size (or excessively worn. If the original shells are being re-used). Make sure mat no dirt or oil was trapped between Ihe bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider al one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered.
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.40a The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the timing belt end of the engine (petrol engine) 36 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or some other object which is unlikely to score the beanng surfaces.
Final piston/connecting rod refitting 37 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that alt traces of the protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. 38 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, and piston rings, then lay out each piston/con-necting rod assembly in its respective position. 39 Start with assembly No 1. Position the piston ring gaps 120° apart, then clamp them in position with a piston nng compressor. 40 Insert Ihe piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of cylinder making sure it is Ihe correct way round. On petrol engines, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown is pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine and on diesel engines, ensure that the cloverleaf-shaped cut-out on the piston crown is towards the front (oil filter side) of the cylinder block. Using a block of wood or hammer handle against the piston crown, tap the assembly into the cylinder until the piston crown is Hush with the top of the cylinder (sea illustrations). 41 Ensure that the bearing shell is still correctly Installed. Liberally lubricate the crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, pull the piston/connecting rod assembly down the bore and onto the crankpin.
7.40b Inserting the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore using a hammer handle (diesel englno) 42 Refit the big-end beanng cap, tightening Its retaining bolts finger-tight at first, Note that Ihe faces with the identification marks must match (which means that the bearing shell locating tabs abut each other). 43 Tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting. On diesel engines tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque then angle-tighten them to the specified Stage 2 angle using an angle-measuring gauge, (see illustrations) 44 Once the bearing cap retaining bolts have been correctly tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that il turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected if new components have been fitted, but there should be no signs of binding or tight spots. 45 Refit the remaining three piston/ connecting rod assemblies in the same way. 46 Refit the cylinder head, anti-vibration plate (16-valve engines), oil pump pick-up/filter screen assembly and sump with reference to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C.
8 Crankshaft -removal and inspection 35
Removal 1 Remove the
sump,
oil pump and pick-up tube, and flywheel/driveplate with reference to the relevant Sections of Chapter 2 Parts A, 8 or C. On 16-valve engines, unbolt and remove the anti-vibration plate from the main bearing caps.
7.43a Torque-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolls (diesel engine) 7.43b Angle-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolts (diesel engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
9.1a Removing the oil return tube from the crankcase
pulling on the screw with a pair of grips, or by using a slide hammer. 2 Where applicable, undo Ihe retaining bolts and remove the piston oil Jet spray tubes from inside Ihe cylinder block. 3 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder block/crankcase, taking care not to damage ihe gasket/sealing surfaces. 4 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted). The plugs are usually very tight - they may have to be drilled out, and the holes re-tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is reassembled. 5 If the block is very dirty have it steam-cleaned, otherwise use paraffin to clean it. 6 Clean all oil holes and oil galleries again and dry thoroughly, then apply a light film of oil to all mating surfaces, to prevent rusting. Smear the cylinder bores with a light coating of oil. 7 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly. To clean the threads, run the correct-size tap Into each of the holes to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to restore damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. 8 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them into the holes In the block. Tighten them securely, 9 Where applicable, refit the piston oil jet spray tubes to the cylinder block, and securely tighten the retaining bolts. Bend over the tabs to lock the bolts (see illustration). 10 Fit the new core plugs with sealant applied to their perimeters before using a suitable metal tube to drive them into position. 11 Refit the oil return tube to the crankcase and tighten the mounting bolts. 12 Refit the Injection pump/oil filter bracket together with a new gasket and lighten the bolts. 13 Refit the rear engine plate and tighten the bolts. Also refit 8ny other removed brackets etc.
Inspection 14 Visually check the cylinder block (or cracks and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. If there has been any history of internal water leakage, it may bo worthwhile having on engine overhaul
9.1b Removing tho injection pump/oil filter bracket 9.1c Removing the injection pump/oil filter bracket gasket from the cyilndor block
9.1 d Removing the intermediate shaft bracket specialist check it with special equipment. 15 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and scoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. Indicating that the bore Is excessively worn. 16 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, measure the bore diameters at the top Oust under the wear ridge), centre, and bottom, parallel to the crankshaft axis. 17 Next, measure the bore diameters at the same three locations, at right-angles to the crankshaft axis. If there is any doubt about the condition of the cylinder bores seek the advice of a Fiat dealer or suitable engine reconditioning specialist. 18 If the engine is not going to be reassembled right away, cover It with a large plastic bag to keep it clean and prevent rusting. If the engine is ready for reassembly, refit all the components and brackets removed.
9.1e Removing the oil vapour breather casing
10 Main and big-end bearings - ^ inspection and selection 5
Inspection 1 Even though the main and big-end bearings should be renewed during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine (see illustration overleaf). The bearing shells are available in different thicknesses to match the diameter of the Journal. 2 Bearing failure can occur due to lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine, or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.5 Lowering the crankshaft into the crankcase
12.9 Fit tho main bearing caps...
to allow lubricant to circulate. This clearance is impossible to check using feeler blades, however Plastlgauge can be used. This consists of a thin strip of soft plastic that is crushed between the bearing shells and journals when the beanng caps are tightened up. Its width then indicates the size of the clearance gap. 7 Cut off five pieces of Plastlgauge. just shorter than the length of the crankshaft journal. Lay a piece on each journal, in line with its axis (see Illustration). 8 Wipe off the rear surfaces of the new lower half main bearing shells and fit them to the main beanng caps, again ensuring that the locating lugs engage correctly (see illustration). 9 Fit the caps in their correct locations on the bearing saddles, using the manufacturers markings as a guide (see illustration). Ensure lhat Ihey are correctly orientated • the caps should be fitted such that the recesses (or the bearing shell locating lugs are on the same side as those in the bearing saddle. 10 Insert and tighten the bolls until they are
811
correctly torqued (see illustrations). Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate at all whilst ihe Plastlgauge is in place. Progressively unbolt the bearing caps and remove them, taking care not to dislodge the Plastlgauge. 11 The width of the crushed Plastigauge can now be measured, using the scale provided (see illustration). Use the correct scale, as both Imperial and metric are printed. This measurement Indicates the running clearance • compare it with that listed in the Specifications.
21 \ „ 12.7 Lay the Plastigauge on the main bearing journals
t
12.10a ... Insert the bolts...
If tho clearance is outside ihe tolerance, it may be due to dirt or debns trapped under the bearing surface; try cleaning them again and repeat the clearance check. If the results are still unacceptable, re-check Ihe journal diameters and the bearing sizes. Note that if the Plastigauge is thicker at one end. the loumals may be tapered and as such, will require regrinding. 12 When you are satisfied that the clearances are correct, carefully remove the remains of the Plastigauge from the journals and bearings faces. Use a soft, plastic or wooden scraper as anything metallic is likely to damage the surfaces.
Crankshaft • final refitting 13 Lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase. Wipe off the surfaces of the bearings in the crankcase and the bearing caps. Fit the thrust beanngs using grease to hold them in
12.11 Use the special scale card to determine the main bearing running clearance
shell In its cap
12.10b ... and torque-tighten them
position, Ensure they are seated correctly in the machined recesses, with tho oil grooves facing outwards 14 Liberally coat the bearing shells in the crankcase with dean engine oil (see Illustration). 15 Lower the crankshaft into position in the crankcase. 16 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the main bearing caps with clean engine oil. Make sure that the locating lugs on the shells are still engaged with the corresponding recesses in the caps. 17 Fit the main bearing caps in the correct order and orientation. Insert the bearing cap bolts and hand tighten them only. 18 Working from the centre bearing cap outwards, tighten the retaining bolts to their specified torque. On petrol engines, tighten all the bolts to the first stage, then angle-tighten them to the Stage 2 anglo (see illustration)
12.14 Lubricate the main bearing shells before final assembly

3*1
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Contents
Air conditioning system - general Information and precautions .... 9 Mr conditioning system components * removal and refitting 10 Antifreeze mixture See Chapter 1A or 1B Auxiliary drivebell(s) check and renewal See Chapter 1A or IB Coolant level check See Weekly checks Coolant pump - removal, Inspection and refitting 7 Coolant renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B
Degrees of difficulty
Cooling fan switch - testing, removal and refitting 6 Cooling system hoses • disconnection and renewal 2 Electric cooling fan(s) - testing, removal and refitting 5 General information and precautions 1 Heater/ventilation components • removal and refitting 8 Radiator - removal, inspection and refitting 3 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 4

Easy,
suitable foe JS^, novice
with
little experience ^
Fairly
easy,
sutable for beginner witti
some experience
^
Faiilydifltctit,
suitable
for competent
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
sutable for & experienced DIY « mechanic ^
VerydMlcult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
« or professional
Specifications
General Expansion tank relief valve opening pressure 0.96 bar Coolant pump Impeller-to-casing clearance: Diesel engine models 0.53 to 1.37 mm Petrol engine models 0.4 to 0.9 mm
Thermostat Diesel engine models: Opening temperature: Starts to open 78 to 82*0 Fully open 88°C Maximum valve travel (approximate) 7.5 mm Petrol engine models: Opening temperature: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines: Starts to open 85 to 89°C Fully open 100°C 1242 cc (16-valve) engines: Starts to open 81 to 85°C Fully open 103°C Maximum valve lift (approximate) 7.5 mm
Electric cooling fan Petrol engine models with single speed fan: Cut-in temperature 90to94°C Cut-out temperature B5 to 89°C Diesel engine models with twin speed fan: Cut-In temperature: Primary fan 86 to 90® C Secondary fan 90 to 94°C Cut-out temperature: Primary fan 81to85°C Secondary fan 85 to 89°C
Torque wrench settings Nm tbfft Coolant pump pulley securing bolts (diesel engine models) 23 17 Coolant pump securing bolts: Diesel engine models 23 17 Petrol engine models 8 6 Coolant pump securing nuts (petrol engine models) 10 7

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly

A


Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
tf In any doubt as to the procedure fo follow on models with air conditioning, consult a Fiat dealer for advice. Note: This is an involved procedure, and It (s recommended fhat the following Section fs read thoroughly before commencing work. Plenty of time should be allowed to compter the operation. During dismantling, make notes on the routing of all wiring and cables, and the locations of all fixings, to aid reassembly. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Set the heater control to HOT. then drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18. 3 Working in the engine bay, slacken the clips and dotach the healer unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead (see illustration) Recover the rubber grommets. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the entire facia assembly from the vehicle bulkhead. Rest the assembly on the front seats. 5 At this stage, access to the air l nlet/dlstrl but Ion/blending control cables is possible. These can be easily disconnected from their respective control levers and renewed If required. 6 Working from the engine bay. remove the protective plastic caps to expose the heater assembty mounting studs and remove the nuts 7 Label the electrical connections to 1hi» heater assembly, to aid correct refitting later and then unplug them at the connectors 8 Slacken and remove the nuts and lift the healer assembly off its mounting studs. Refitting 9 To refit the assembly, reverse the steps described for removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Make sure that all wiring and cables are muted as noted during dismantling. b) Make sure that dl air ducts are securely reconnected. c) Refit the facia components with reference to Chapter 11. dl On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18.
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead