1997 FIAT PUNTO Rear light

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly

A


Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
tf In any doubt as to the procedure fo follow on models with air conditioning, consult a Fiat dealer for advice. Note: This is an involved procedure, and It (s recommended fhat the following Section fs read thoroughly before commencing work. Plenty of time should be allowed to compter the operation. During dismantling, make notes on the routing of all wiring and cables, and the locations of all fixings, to aid reassembly. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Set the heater control to HOT. then drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18. 3 Working in the engine bay, slacken the clips and dotach the healer unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead (see illustration) Recover the rubber grommets. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the entire facia assembly from the vehicle bulkhead. Rest the assembly on the front seats. 5 At this stage, access to the air l nlet/dlstrl but Ion/blending control cables is possible. These can be easily disconnected from their respective control levers and renewed If required. 6 Working from the engine bay. remove the protective plastic caps to expose the heater assembty mounting studs and remove the nuts 7 Label the electrical connections to 1hi» heater assembly, to aid correct refitting later and then unplug them at the connectors 8 Slacken and remove the nuts and lift the healer assembly off its mounting studs. Refitting 9 To refit the assembly, reverse the steps described for removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Make sure that all wiring and cables are muted as noted during dismantling. b) Make sure that dl air ducts are securely reconnected. c) Refit the facia components with reference to Chapter 11. dl On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18.
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
8.5 Dial gauge (1), mounting bracket (2) and setting rod (3) In position on the injection pump (Lucas)
so that Its tip Is In contact with the bracket linkage (see Illustration). Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at the mid-point of its travel and zero the gauge. 6 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation (clockwise) until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC on No 1 piston with ell the sprocket timing marks aligned. 7 Check the reading on the dial gauge which should correspond to the value marked on the pump (there is a tolerance of * 0.04 mm). The timing value may be marked on a plastic disc attached to the front of the pump, or alternatively on a tag attached to Ihe pump control lever (see illustrations). 8 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the front pump mounting nuts/bolt and the raar mounting bolt, then slowly rotate tne pump body until the point is found where the specified reading is obtained on the dial gauge (access to the lower front bolt is gained through the hole in the injection pump sprocket). When the pump Is correctly positioned, tighten both its front mounting nuta/bolt and the rear bolt to their specified torque settings. 9 Withdraw the timing probe slightly, so that it
positioned clear of the pump rotor dowel. Rotato the crankshaft ihrough one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. 10 Slide the timing probe back Into position ensuring that it Is correctly seated against the guide sealing washer surface, not (he upper Hp, then zero the dial gauge. 11 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction ol rotation to the TDC position and recheck the timing measurement 12 If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolt and repeat the operations in paragraphs 6 to 11. 13 When the pump timing is correctly set. remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket and withdraw the timing probe. 14 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the guide and tighten it securely.
8.7a Pump timing value (x) marked on plastic diso (Lucas)
15 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refilling sequence, proceed as described in Section 5. 16 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen tho injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 18 Check and If necessary adjust the Idle speed as described In Chapter 1B.
9 Fuel Injectors -testing, removal and refitting Sk ^

A


Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to Injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to pen ot rate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel Injection specie list.
Testing 1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged uso, and it is reasonable to expect them to need reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles
8.7b Pump timing values marked on label (1) and tag (2) (Lucas)
(100 000 km) or so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration of the Injectors must be left to a specialist. A defective injector which Is causing knocking or smoking can be located without dismantling as follows. 2 Run the engine at a fast idle. Slacken each Injector union In turn, placing rag around the union to catch spilt fuel, and being careful not to exposa the skin to any spray. When tho union on the defective Injector is slackened, the knocking or smoking will stop.
Removal 3 Remove ihe air Inlet ducting from tho front part of the onglne. 4 Carefully clean around the Injectors and injector pipe union nuts. 5 Pull the leak-off pipes from the injectors (see illustration). 6 Unscrow the union nuts securing Ihe injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump. Counterhold the unions on the pump when unscrewing the nuts. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 7 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the pipes from the ln|ectors, If necessary, the Injector pipes may be completely removed-Note carefully the locations of the pipe clamps, for use when refitting. Cover tho onds ot (he injectors, to prevent dirt ingress. 8 Unscrew the injectors using a deep socket or box spanner, and remove Ihem from the cylinder head (see Illustration). 9 Recover the tire seal washers from the cy-linder head and discard them (see illustration).
9.5 Disconnecting the Injector leak-off pipes 9.8 Removing an injector

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
Maintenance-free battery -charging Note: The following is intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery) before charging a battery. 13 This battery type takes considerably longer lo fully recharge than the standard type, the time taken being dependent on the extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up
to three days. 14 A constant voltage type charger is required, tooe set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9 votts wth a charger current below 25 amps. Using
mis
method, the battery should be usable within three hours, giving a voltage reading of 12.5 vofts. but this Is for a partially discharged battery and, as mentioned, full charging can
take
considerably longer. 15 If Ihe battery is to be charged from a fully discharged state {condition reading loss lhan 12.2 volts), have it recharged by your FIAT dealer or local automotive electrician, as Ihe charge rate is higher and constant super-vision during charging Is necessary.
3 Battery -removal and refitting
Note: Refer to Disconnecting the battery in ifte Reference Section of this manual before proceeding.
Removal 1 Slacken the clamp bolts and disconnect the ctamp from the battery negative (earth) terminal. 2 Remove the insulation cover (where fitted)
and
disconnect the positive terminal lead(s) in
Die same
way. 3 At the base of the battery, unscrew the bolt from the battery holding clamp plate and remove the clamp plate (see Illustration). A Remove the battery from Ihe engine compartment. 5 II necessary the mounting tray may be removed by unscrewing the bolts. On diesel models it will be necessary to remove the relay guard bolts as well.
Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal but make sure that the positive terminal is connected first followed by the negative terminal.
4 Alternator/charging system - >%•> testing in vehicle
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. 1 If the ignition warning light fails to Illuminate when the ignition is switched on, first check the alternator wiring connections for security. If satisfactory, check that the warning light bulb has not blown, and that the bulbholder is secure in its location in the instrument panel. If the light still fails to illuminate, check the continuity of the warning light feed wire from the alternator to the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the alternator is at fault and should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 2 If the ignition warning light Illuminates when the engine Is running, stop the engine and check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned (see Chapter 1A or 18) and that the alternator connections are secure. If all is so far satisfactory, have the alternator checked by an auto-electrician. 3 If the alternator output is suspect even though the warning light functions correctly, the regulated voltage may be checked as follows. 4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and start the engine. 5 Increase the engine speed until the voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading should be approximately 12 to 13 volts, and no more than 14 volts. 6 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg. the headlights, heated rear window and heater blower) as possible, and check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14 volts. 7 If ihe regulated voltage is not as stated, the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush springs, e faulty voltage regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase winding or worn or damaged slip rings. The alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3.3 Removing the battery clamp plate
5 Alternator -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal {refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove tho right-hand front roadwheel. 3 Remove Ihe Inner cover from under the right-hand wheelarch for access to tho right-hand side of the engine. 4 Disconnect the cables from the rear Of the alternator (see illustration).
Petrol models 5 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebelt. Note that the position of the rpm sensor will prevent complete removal of the drivebelt from the crankshaft puiley. 6 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts then unscrew the upper slot-mounted bolt. Withdraw the alternator from the engine (see illustrations).
Diesel models 7 For additional working room, unclip and remove the upper timing belt cover then unbolt and remove the lower timing belt cover.
5.4 Cable connections on the rear of the alternator
5.6a Alternator adjustment and pivot bolts (petrol engine) B Adjuster bolt C Pivot bolt 5.6b Removing the alternator (petrol engine)

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
1$
fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
1$
fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.

9«1
Chapter 9
Braking system
Contents
Brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting 4 Brake fluid level check See Weekly checks Brake fluid renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B Brake warning lamp check See Chapter 1A or 1B Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 Front brake pad check See Chapter 1A or 1B Front brake pads - renewal 2 General information 1 Handbrake - checking and adjustment 9
Handbrake cables - removal and refitting 10 Hydraulic pipes end hoses - renewal 13 Hydraulic system - bleeding 11 Master cylinder - removal and refitting 12 Roar brake shoe check See Chapter 1A or 1B Rear brake shoes - renewal 5 Rear brake drums - removal, inspection and refitting 6 Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting 7 Stop-light switch - adjustment, removal and refitting 6
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable
far
novice with Sttle
experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable ^ (orbeginnerwith ®
some
experience
Fairly difficult, suitable
for
compe«ent ^ CHYmechanlc ^

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY « mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
Front disc brakes Type Disc with single-piston sliding calipers Disc diameter Petrol models with single-point Injection 240.0 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 257.0 mm Non-turbo diesel models 240.0 mm Turbodieselmodels 257.0 mm Disc thickness (new); Petrol models with single-point injection 10.80 to 11.10 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 11.80 to 12.10 mm Non-turbo diesel models 10.80 to 11.10 mm Turbodieselmodels 11.80 to 12.10 mm Minimum disc thickness (wear limit): Petrol models with single-pant Injection 9.20 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 10.20 mm Non-turbo diesel models 9.20 mm Turbo diesel models 10.20 mm Maximum disc runout 0.15 mm Brake pad friction material minimum thickness 1.5 mm
Rear drum brakes Drum Inner diameter (new) 180.0 to 180.25 mm Maximum drum diameter (wear limit) 181.35 mm Minimum brake shoe lining thickness 2.0 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft
Bfeed
screw 6 4 Brake disc locating studs 12 9 Brake drum locating studs 12 9 Brake pipe and hose unions 14 10 Front caliper mounting bracket-to-hub carrier bolts 53 39 Front caliper-to-caliper bracket guide pin bolts 12 9 fleer wheel cylinder mounting boils 10 7 Roadwheel bolts 85 63

9*2 Braking system
2.3a Release tho locking clip ...
1 General information
The braking system is of the vacuum servo-assisted. dual-circuit hydraulic type. The arrangement of Ihe hydraulic system is such that each circuit operates one front ond ono rear brake from a tandem master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, both circuits operate In unison However, in the event of hydraulic failure in one circuit, lull braking force will still be available at two diagonally-opposite wheels. All models covered in this manual are fitted with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. The front disc brakes are aotuated by single-piston sliding lype calipers, which ensure lhat equal pressure is applied to each brake pad. The rear drum brakes incorporate leading and trailing shoes, which are actuated by twin-piston wheel cylinders. A self-adjust mechanism is incorporated, to automatically compensate for brako shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings wear, the footbrnke operation automatically operates the adjuster mechanism, which effectively lengthens the shoe strut and repositions the brake shoes, to remove the llning-to-drum clearance. The mechanical handbrake linkage operates the brake shoos via a lever attached to the trailing brake shoe.
2.3b ... and remove the pad wear indicator wiring and brake fluid line from the suspension strut Load sensitive proportioning valves operate on the rear brake hydraulic circuits, to prevent the possibility of the rear wheels locking before the front wheels under heavy braking. Note: When servicing any part of the system, work carefully and methodically; also observe scmpulous cleanliness when overhauling any part of the hydraulic sysiem. Always renew components (in axle sets, where applicable) if In doubt about their condition, and use only genuine Fiat replacement parts, or at least those of known good quality. Note the warnings given in Safety first and at relevant points in this Chapter concerning fhe dangers of asoestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Models with anti-lock braking system (ABS) Available as an option on certain models, the anti-lock braking system prevents skidding which not only optimises stopping distances but allows full steering control to be maintained under maximum braking. By electronically monitoring the speed of each roadwheel in relation to the other wneete, Ihe system can detect when a wheel is about to lock-up, before control is actually lost. The brake fluid pressure applied to that wheel's brake caliper is then decreased and restored (or modulated) several times a second until control
£s
regained. The system components comprise an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic unit, brake lines and dashboard mounted warning lamps.
The hydraulic unit incorporates a tandem master cylinder, a valve block which modulates the pressure in the brake hydrauli: circuits during ABS operation, an accumulator which provides a supply of highly pressursed brake fluid, a hydraulic pump to charge Ihe accumulator and an integral electronic control unit (ECU). The four wheel sensors are mounted on the wheel hubs. The ECU uses the signals produced by the sensors to calculate Ihe rotational speed of each wheel, The ECU has a self-diagnostic capability and will inhibit the operation of the ABS il a fault is detected, lighting the dashboard mounted warning lamp. The braking system will then revert lo conventional. non-ABS operation. II the nature of the laull ie not immediately obvious upon inspection, the vehicle must be taken to a Fiat dealer, who will have the diagnostic equipment
required
lo interrogate the ABS ECU electronically and pin-point the problem
2 Front brake pads - & renewal S

A


Warning: Renew BOTH sets ol front brake pads at the same
time
- NEVER renew the pads on
only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result

A


Warning: Note that the dust created by wear of the pads
may
contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow It out with compressed air, and don't inhale any of
it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use proprietary braks cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle supporti. Remove the front roadwheeis. 2 Wording on one side of the vehicle, puth the caliper piston into its bore by pulling the caliper outwards. If necessary, press the piston back into its bore using a large G-clamp or a piston retraction tool. Keep a careful eye on the level of brake llufd in Ihe I reservoir as you do this - ensure that the
level
I does not rise above the MAX marking. 3 Whore applicable, release the locking dp and remove the pad wear indicator
wiring end
brake fluid line from the bracket at Ihe
base of
the suspension strut (see illustrations).
Petrol models without ABS 4 Remove the locking clip and exlracl the lower guide pin from the caliper (see illustrations) 5 Pivot the caliper body upwards and support In position with a length of wire or a cabie-fc. Avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
2,4a Remove the locking clip ... 2.4b ... and extract the lower guide pin from the caliper (petrol models without ABS)

Braking system 9®7
5JJc ... and disconnect the handbrake cable from the brake shoe lever
5.14a Lower return spring fitted in place
12 Fit the self-adjuster mechanism Into the recess in the trailing brake shoe and anchor the retaining spring in the slot provided in the shoe (see Illustration). 13 Fit the leading shoe In position on the backpiste and secure it with the hold down pin. spring and cup as described for the trailing shoe. Engage the end of'the self-adjuster mechanism with the recess In the leading brake shoe. Hook the retaining spring into the slot provided. 14 Fit the upper and lower shoe return spnngs. engaging them with the slots In the shoes as shown (see illustrations). Remove
me
elastic band from the wheel cylinder. 15 Turn Ihe serrated wheel at the end of the self-adjuster mechanism, to retract the brake shoes - this will give additional clearance to ilow Ihe drum to pass over the shoes during refitting. 16 Repeat the procedure on the remaining tide of the vehicle. 17 Refit the brake drums as described in Section 6. Check and if necessary adjust the operation of the handbrake, as described in Section 9. IB Apply the brake pedal and handbrake 'ever several times to settle the self-adjusting mechanism. With both rear roadwheels rsfitted and Ihe rear of the vehicle still raised, turn Ihe wheels by hand to check that the take shoes are not binding. 19 Lower the vehicle to the ground and thoroughly check the operation of the braking system.
5.10 Apply brake grease sparingly to the shoe contact surfaces (arrowed) of the brake backplate
5.14b Correct location of upper return spring In leading shoe...
6 Rear brake drums -removal, inspection and refitting ^

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the dangers of asbestos dust Removal 1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the roar of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. Fully release the handbrake. 2 If the original drum is to be refitted, mark the relationship between the drum and the hub. Slacken and remove the two locating studs and pull the drum from the hub (see illustration).
6.2 Slacken and remove the two drum locating studs
5.12 Fit the self-adjuster mechanism into the recess (arrowed) in the trailing brake shoe
5.14c ... and trailing shoe
3 If the drum is binding on Ihe brake shoes, it can be drawn off as follows. Hold the drum still and turn the hub so that the drum and hub flange bolt holes no longer line up. Screw two bofts into the locating stud threaded holes In tho drum, and progressively lighten them against the hub llange to push the drum from the hub (see illustration).
Inspection Note: If either drum requires renewal, BOTH should be renewed at the same time, to ensure even and consistent braking. New brake shoes should also be fitted. 4 Working carefully, remove all traces of brake dust from the drum, but avoid Inhaling the dust, as it is a health hazard. 5 Clean the outside of the drum, and check it for obvious signs of wear or damage, such as cracks around the roadwheel stud holes; renew the drum if necessary.
6.3 Using two bolts to draw the drum off the brake shoes