1997 FIAT PUNTO Rear wash

Fuel system - diesel models
4C*3

9.9 Removing the fire seal washor 9.13 Tightening an injector with a torque wrench
Refitting 10 Obtain new fire seal washers. 11 Take care not to drop the Injectors, or tfow the needles at their tips to become damaged. The injectors are prectsion-mado to Ine knits, and must not be handled roughly. In particular, never mount them in a bench vice. 12 Commence refitting by inserting the fire
seal
washers {convex face uppermost}. 13 Insert the injectors and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 14 Refit the injector pipes and tighten the union nuts. Make sure the pipe clamps are in Iteir previously-noted positions. If the clamps
are
wrongly positioned or missing, problems may be expenenced with pipes breaking or splitting,
15 Reconnect the leak-off pipes. 16 Refit the air ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen the Injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air.
10 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting
Refer to Chapter 4A, hov/ever note that the unit does not Incorporate a pump (see illustrations).
11 Fuel tank -removal and refitting
Refer to Chapter 4A, however note that in addition a safety valve with an anti-roll device is fitted in the top of the tank with a ventilation pipe to the front of the tank. The fuel gauge sender unit does not Incorporate a pump as this unit is located In the injection pump.
12 Inlet manifold - ^ removal and refitting %
Note: The Inlet and exhaust manifolds are both located on the rear of the engine and share the same securing bolts and gasket. Although the following procedure describes removal of the Inlet manifold separately it may be necessary to remove the exhaust manifold as well In order to renew the gasket.
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Section 2. 2 Unbolt and remove the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of the engine. 3 On turbo models disconnect the air duct from the inlet manifold elbow. If necessary the elbow can be unbolted from the manifold and the sealing ring removed. 4 Unscrew the nuts securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder head noting the position of the support bracket. Note lhat some of the nuts also secure the exhaust manifold. Withdraw the inlet manifold from the studs (see illustrations), 5 Examine the gasket. If It is damaged it will be necessary to remove the exhaust manifold in order to renew it.
Refitting 6 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but tighten all nuts and bolts lo the specified torque.
12.4c Removing the Inlet manifold

4D*3 Exhaust and emission control systems
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure but fit new gaskets. Tighten the nuts lo the specified torque.
Diesel models Note: On diesel models the inlet and exhaust
manifolds
are located on the rear of the engine
end
share the same securing nuts and gasket. Removal 8 Remove the inlet manifold as described In Part
C
of this Chapter. 10 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up lite front of tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 11 Straighten the tab washers (where fitted), then unscrew and remove the exhaust downpipe retaining nuts. Detach the downpipe from the manifold/turbocharger. Suitably support the downpipe. 12 Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head securing nuts and withdraw the manifold (see Illustration). 13 Separate the turbocharger from the manifold with reference to Chapter 4C. 14 Remove the gasket and clean the mating
(aces
of the manifold, cylinder head and down-pipe flange (see illustration). The gasket must
be
renewed when refitting the manifold, Refitting
15 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure but fit a new gasket. Tighten the retaining nuts to the specified torque and where necessary lock them by bending over
the
tocktabs.
6 Exhaust system - % general information and ^ component renewal
Genera/ Information 1 A three section exhaust system is fitted consisting of a twin-branch front downpipe, a catalytic converter, and a tailpipe with two silencers. The downpipe-to-manifold and downpipe-to-catalytic converter joints are both of flange and gasket type, whereas the remaining joint Is of the sleeve type secured
witn
a clamp ring (see illustration). 2 The system is suspended throughout its entire length by rubber mountings.
Removal 3 Each exhaust section can be removed individually or, alternatively, the complete system can be removed as a unit. Where separation of the rear sleeve Joint is necessary, it may be more practical to remove
the
entire system rather than try and separate
the Joint
In position. 4 To remove the system or part of the system, first jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and nhlcle support), Alternatively position the
vehicle
over an inspection pit or on car ramps.
5.12 Removing the exhaust manifold (diesel engine) Downpipe 5 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. Where applicable on petrol models, refer to Section 4 and remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe. 6 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to tha catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 7 Bend back the locktabs (where fitted) then unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold/turbocharger. and lower the downpipe, Recover the gasket. Catalytic converter
8 Support the tailpipe section of the exhaust using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 9 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to the catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 10 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the converter from the tailpipe section. 11 Release the mounting rubber and remove the converter from under the vehicle. Tailpipe and silencers 12 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 13 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the catalytic converter from the tailpipe section. 14 Release the tailpipe section from its mounting rubbers and remove from under the vehicle. Complete system 15 Disconnect the downpipe from the ex-haust manifold as described in paragraph 7.
6.1 Exhaust clamp ring securing the tailpipe to the front exhaust system
5.14 Removing the oxhaust manifold gasket (diesel engine) 16 With the aid of an assistant, free the system from all its mounting rubbers and manoeuvre it out from underneath the vehicle. Heatshield 17 The heatshield is secured to the underbody by bolts and Is easily removed once the exhaust system has been removed.
Refitting 18 Each section is refitted by a reverse of the removal sequence, noting the following points. a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have been removed from the flanges and renew ail necessary gaskets. b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs of damage or deterioru tion and renew
as
necessary. c) Before refitting the tailpipe joint, smear some exhaust system jointing paste to the joint mating surfaces to ensure an air-tight seal. Tighten the clamp bolt. d) Prior to fully tightening the rear joint damp, ensure that all rubber mountings are correctly /ocafed and that there is adequate clearance between the exhaust system and vehicle underbody.
7 Catalytic converter -general information and precautions
The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance In itself, but there are some facts of which an owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life.
Petrol models a) DO NOT use leaded petrot In a car equipped with a catalytic converter - Ihe lead will coat the precious metals, redudng their converting efficiency
and
will eventually destroy the converter. b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems well-maintained in accordance with the manufacturer's schedule. c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the car at all (or at least as little
as
possible) until the fault is cured.

Clutch 6*3
6 WorWng inside the vehicle, extract the split pin and remove the washer securing the master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal. Dsoonnect the pushrod from the pivot. 7 Have an assistant support the master cylinder In the engine compartment, then unscrew the mounting bolts. Withdraw the master cylinder from the engine compartment, 8 II is not possible to obtain an overhaul kit from Flat however some motor factors may be abls to supply one. Follow the Instructions with the repair kit if obtained.
Refitting 9 Refit the clutch master cylinder by following ihe removal procedure In reverse, noting the following. a) Apply a
Utile
high-melting point grease to the clutch pedal pivot. b) Tighten the mounting bolts and union nut securely. cj Fit a new split pin to the pushrod. d) Where removed, refit the alternator
as
described In Chapter 5A e) On completion bleed the clutch hydraulic system as descnbed in Section
A.

7 Clutch assembly -
removal,
inspection
and
refitting
S Clutch slave cylinder-removal and refitting
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted
ivrth
the hydraulically-operated clutch release mechanism. Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning
of
Section A regarding the hazards of working
with
hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the battery and battery tray as described in Chapter 5A. 2 Fit a brake hose clamp to tha hose leading to the clutch slave cylinder. 3 Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the slave cylinder. Be prepared for some fluid loss by placing rags beneath the cylinder. 4 Unscrew the mounting bolts and release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release am on the transmission, then remove the unit from the engine compartment (see Illustration). 5 It is not possible to obtain an overhaul kit from Flat however some motor factors may be able to supply one. Follow tha instructions with the repair kit if obtained.
Refitting 6 Refit the clutch slave cylinder by following the removal procedure In reverse, noting the following. a) Apply a little high-melting point grease to the tip of the slave cylinder pushrod. b) Tighten the mounting bolts and union nut securely. c) On completion bleed the dutch hydraulic system as described in Section A.

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Warning: Dust created by clutch wear and deposited on the clutch components may contain asbestos, which Is a health hazard. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air, or inhale any of it. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean off the dust. Brake system cleaner or methylated spirit should be used to flush the dust Into a suitable receptacle. After the clutch components are wiped clean with rags, dispose of the confam/nafed rags and cleaner In a sealed, marked container. Note: Although some friction materials may no longer contain asbestos, it is safest to assume that they DO. and to take precautions accordingly.
Removal 1 Unless the complete engine/transmission is to be removed from the car and separated for major overhaul (see Chapter 2D), Ihe clutch can be reached by removing the transmission as descnbed in Chapter 7A, 2 Before disturbing the clutch, use chalk or a marker pen to mark the relationship of the pressure plate assembly to the flywheel. 3 Working In a diagonal sequence, slacken the pressure plate bolts by half a turn at a time, until spring pressure Is released and the bolls can be unscrewed by hand (see Illustration). 4 Prise the pressure piate assembly off its locating dowels, and collect the friction plate, noting which way round the friction plate is fitted (see Illustration).
Inspection Note: Due to the amount of work necessary to remove and refit clutch components, It is usually considered good practice to renew the clutch friction plate, pressure plate assembly and release bearing as a matched set. even if only one of these is actually worn enough to require renewal. It Is also worth considering the renewal of the clutch components on a preventative basis if the engine and/or
6.4 Removing the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission fransmj'ss/on have been removed for some other reason. 5 Separate the pressure plate and friction plate and place them on the bench. 6 When cleaning clutch components, read first the warning at the beginning of this Section; remove dust using a clean, dry cloth, and working in a well-ventilated atmosphere. 7 Check the friction plats facings for signs Of wear, damage or oil contamination. If the friction material is cracked, burnt, scored or damaged, or if It is contaminated with oil or grease (shown by shiny black patches), the friction plate must be renewed. 8 If tho friction material Is still serviceable, check that the centre boss splines are unworn, that the torsion springs are In good condition and securely fastened, and that all the rivets are tight. If any wear or damage is found, the friction plate must be renewed. 9 If the friction material is fouled with oil, this must be duo to an oil leak from the crankshaft rear (left-hand) oil seal, from the sump-to-cytinder block joint, or from the transmission Input shaft. Renew tha soal or repair the Joint, as appropriate, before Installing the new friction plate. 10 Check tha pressure plate assembly for obvious signs of wear or damage; shake it to check for looss rivets or worn or damaged fulcrum rings, and check thai the drive straps securing the pressure plate to the cover do not show signs (such as a deep yellow or blue discoloration) of overheating. If the diaphragm spring is worn or damaged, or if its pressure is In any way suspect, the pressure plate assembly should be renewed.
7.3 Removing the clutch pressure plate bolts 7.4 Removing the clutch pressure plate and friction plate
expert22 {
a http://rutracker.org

8*2 Driveshafts
f Outboard CV joint 3 Driveshaft 6 Flange 2 Gaiter clip A Garter 6 Inboard CV ioint
1.2 Intermediate driveshaft • turbo diesel models 1 Bearing flange 3 Washer S Retaining plate 2 Bearing A Circllp
2.S Extracting the driveshaft from the hub (arrowed) from the CV joint at the carrier transmission
The joints are protected by rubber g&itcrs and are packed with grease, to orovktt permanent lubrication. If wear Is detected in the joint. It can be detached from lii» driveshaft and renewed. Normally, the CV joints do not require additional lubrication, unless they havo been overhauled or lfi» rubber gaiters have been damaged, allotting the greasa to become contaminated. Rater
to
Chapter 1A or 1B for guidance In checking the condition of the driveshaft gaiters. Bolh driveshafts are splined at their outer ends, to accept the wheel hubs, ond ate threaded so that the hubs can be fastened to the driveshafts by means of a large, staked nut.
2 Driveshafts -removal and refitting & ^
Note: A balljoint separator tool will b» required for this operation. A new drivestnf, nut and tmck-rod end nut should be used
on
refitting. In addition, new lower arm
baHj&ot
nuts should be used. Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of tha vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove th« appropriate roadwheel(6). 2 The front hub must be held stationary
m
order to loosen the driveshaft nut. Ideally, M hub should be held by a suitable tool bolted Into placo using two of the roadwheel nuts, Alternatively, havo an assistant firmly apply the brake pedal to prevent the hub from rotating. Using e socket and extension bar, slacken and remove the driveshaft nut. Recover the washer (where fitted).

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Warning: The nut Is extremely tight. Discard the nut - a new
one
must be used on refitting. 3 Remove the locking clip and extract the brake caliper hydraulic hose (and where applicable, the brake pad wear indicator cable) from the bracket on the base of the suspension strut. 4 With reference to Chapter 10, Section 3. unbolt the base of the suspension strut from Ihe top of the hub carrier. 5 Temporarily refit the driveshaft nut to the end of the driveshaft, to prevent damage to the driveshaft threads, then using a solt-faced mallet, carefully tap the driveshaft from the hub carrier (see illustration). If the shaft is a tight fit, a suitable hub puller can be used to force the end of the shaft from the hub. Support tha end of the driveshaft • do not allow the end o the driveshaft to hang down as this svill strain the joint components and gaiters. 6 Proceed as follows, according to which driveshaft is to be removed. All models except turbo diesels 7 Remove the driveshaft gaiter clip from the CV joint at the transmission (see Illustration)

Braking system 9®5
2 Rotate the brake disc by hand and examine the whole of the surface area swept by the brake pads, on both sides ot the disc. Note: /( will bo necessary to remove the front brake pads to allow an adequate inspection of the disc's rear surface; refer to Section 2 tor details. 3 Typically, the disc surface will have a polished appearance and should be free from heavy scoring. Smooth rippling is produced by normal operation and does not indicate excessive wear. Deep scoring and cracks, however, are indications of more serious damage in need of correction. 4 If deep scoring Is discovered, it may be possible to have the disc reground to restore the surface, depending on the extent of the damage. To determine whether this is a feasible course of action, it will be necessary to measure the thickness of the disc, as described later. 5 Check the whole surface of the disc for cracks, particularly around the roadwheel bolt holes. A cracked disc mutt be renewed. 6 A ridge of rust and brake dust at the inner and outer edges of the disc, beyond the pad contact area is normal - this can be scraped tway quite easily. 7 Raised ridges caused by the brake pads eroding the disc material, however, are an indication of excessive wear. If close examination reveals such ridges, the oiicknoss of the disc must be measured, to usess whether it is still fit for use. 8 To measure the thickness of the disc, take readings at several points on the surface using a micrometer. In the area swept by the brake pads (see Illustration). Include any points where the disc has been scored: align me Jaws of the micrometer with the deepest ares of scoring, to get a true indication of the extent of the wear. Compare these ineasurements with the limits listed in the Specifications. If the disc has worn below its minimum thickness, at any point, it must be renewed. 9 If the discs are suspected of causing brake luddor, check the disc runout, using one of
me
following methods: Runout measurement -
DTI
gauge method 10 Refit the four roadwheel bolts, together
w.1h
one M14 plain washer per stud • this will ensure adequate disc to hub contact. Tighten te studs to 5 Nm (4 Ibf ft). 11 Clamp the DTI gauge to a stand and attach the stand, preferably via a magnetic oase. to the strut mounting bracket. Align the jauge so that its pointer rests upon the area of the dtsc swept by the brake pads, on an arc i mm from the outer edge of tho disc (soe illustration). 12 Zero the gauge and slowly rotate the disc trough one revolution, observing tho pointer rcovement. Note the maximum deflection recorded and compare the figure with that >«ted In Specifications.
4.8 Measuring brake disc thickness with a micrometer
Runout measurement -feeler blade method 13 Use the feeler blades to measure the clearance between the disc and a convenient fixed point, such as the disc backplate. Rotate the disc and measure the variation in clearance at several points around the disc, Compare the maximum figure with that listed in Specifications. 14 If the disc runout Is outside of its specified tolerance, first check that the hub Is not worn (see Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or 1B). If the hub is In good condition, remove the disc (as described later in this Section), rotate it through 180° and refit it. This may improve the seating and eradicate Ihe excessive runout. 15 If the runout is still unacceptable, then It may be possible to restore the disc by regrinding; consult your Fiat dealer or a machine shop for a professional opinion - it may prove more economical to purchase a new disc. If the disc cannot be reground, then it must be renewed.
Removal 16 Mark the relationship between the disc and the hub with chalk or a marker pen, to allow correct refitting. 17 To allow the disc to be removed, undo the two bolts securing (he brake caliper mounting bracket to the hub carrier (see illustration 3.7). Withdraw the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly, complete with brake pads, from the hub carrier, and hang it from a rigid point on the suspension, using v/lre or a
4.18a Slacken and remove the disc locating studs ...
4.11 Brake disc runout measurement - DTI gauge method
cable-tie. Oo not allow it to dangle freely as this will strain the brake hose. 18 Slacken and remove the disc locating stud(s). Support the disc as you do this and lift it off as it becomes free (see illustrations). 19 Remove the polished glaze from the surface of the disc with sand/emery paper. Use small, circular motions to avoid producing a directional finish on the surface.
Refitting 20 If a new disc Is being fitted, remove the protective coating from the surface U9ing an appropriate solvent. 21 Locate Ihe disc on ihe hub so that the roadwheel bolt and locating stud holes are all correctly lined up; use the alignment marks made during removal. If the disc is being removed in an attempt to improve seating and hence runout, turn the disc through 180° and then refit it. 22 Refit the locating stud and retaining screw, tightening them securely. 23 Re-check the disc runout, using one of the methods described earlier in this Section. 24 Refil the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly to the hub carrier. Coat the threads of the mounting bolts with locking compound, then tighten them to the specified torque. 25 Depress the brake pedal several times to bnng the brake pads into contact with the disc. 26 Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. 27 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks.
4,18b ... and lift off the disc as It becomes free

9*10 Braking system
10.6 Disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable (arrowed) from the draw bar 6 Working inside ihe vehicle, remove Ihe screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim panel (refer to Section 9 for more detail). At the base of the handbrake lever, full/ slacken off the handbrake adjusting screw and locknut, to remove oil tension from the cable draw bar, then disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable from the cable draw bar (see illustration) 7 Release the cable grommet from tho floor-pan, then withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
Refitting 8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the cables are securely fastened In the clips on the floorpan beetshield and lower suspension a/m. b) On completion, check the handbrake adiustment, as described in Section 9.
11 Hydraulic system -bleeding

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Warning: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off immediately and thoroughly In the case ot skin contact, and seek immediate medical advice if any fluid is swallowed, or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable, and may ignite when allowed into contact with hot components. When servicing any hydraulic system, it Is safest to assume that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take precautions
11.17 Bleeding a rear brake line
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol that Is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is spilt, It should be washed off immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it Is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) • old fluid may be contaminated and unfit tor further use. Whan topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use the recommended type, and ensure that It comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.
General 1 The correct operation of any hydraulic system is only possible after removing all air from the components and circuit; and this Is achieved by bleeding the syslem. 2 During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the recommended type; never re-use fluid that has already been bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before starting work. 3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid being already in the system, the brake com-ponents and circuit must be Flushed completely with uncontamlnated, correct fluid, and new seals should be fitted throughout the system. 4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the system, or air has ontered because of a leak, ensure that the fault is cured before proceeding further. 5 Park Ihe vehicle on level ground, switch off the engine and select first or reverse gear (or P), then chock the wheels and release the handbrake. 6 Cheek that all pipes and hoses are secure, unions tight and bleed screws closed. Remove Ihe dust caps (whore applicable), and clean any dirt from around the bleed screws. 7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap, and top Ihe master cylinder reservoir up to the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely. Rememoer to maintain the fluid level at least above the MIN level line throughout the procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further air entering the syslem. 8 There are a number of one-man. do-It-yourself brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described in detail below. 9 If a kit Is to be used, prepare the vehicle as described previously, and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions, as Ihe procedure may vary slightly according to the type being used; generally, they are as outlined below in the relevant sub-section. 10 Whichever method is used, the same sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure Ihe removal of all air from the system.
Bleeding sequence 11 If Ihe system has been only
partial!?
disconnected, and suitable precautions wwe taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be necessary to bteod only that part of the system (le the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system Is to be bled, then It should be done working in the following sequence: a) Left-hand rear wheel b) Right-hand front wheel. c) Right-hand rear wheel. d) Left-hand front wheel. Note: When bleeding the rear brakes
on a
vehicle ritled with load proportioning valves: i the rear of the vehicle has been jacked
up to
allow access to ihe brake wheel cylinder,
tha
rear suspension must be compressed
(eg
raising the beam axle with a trolley
jack) so
that the load proportioning valves
remain open
throughout the bleeding process.
Bleeding -basic (two~man) method 13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a light fit over the bleed screw, end a ring spanner lo
Rt
the screw. The help of an assistant will also tie required. 14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw In the sequence if not already done. Fit a suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place the other end of Ihe tube In the jar. and
pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube. 15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
MIN
level line throughout the procedure. 16 Have the assistant fully depress the brefce pedal several times to build up pressure, then maintain it on the final downstroke. 17 While pedal pressure is maintained, unscrew ihe bleed screw (approximately one turn) and allow the compressed fluid and orto flow into the
Jar,
The assistant should maintah pedal pressure, following the pedal down to the floor if necessary, and should not rrtaase Ihe pedal until instructed to do so. When ihe flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have the assistant retease the pedal sfowty, and recheck the reservoir fluid level (see Illustration). 18 Repeat Ihe steps given in paragraphs 16 end 17 until the fluid emerging from the bled screw is free from air bubbles. If Ihe master cylinder has been drained and refilled,
and
at Is being bled from the first screw In the sequence, allow approximately five seconds between cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill. 19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighter, the bleed screw securely, remove Ihe tube arc spanner, and refit the dust cap (where applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed sew. 20 Repeat the procedure on tho remaining screws In the sequence, until ail air is removed from the system, and the brake pedal feels firm again.

Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK

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Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37