1997 FIAT PUNTO Power

ib-io Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
7 With the car standing on Its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very hide. If any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-plnion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod, Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective Internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.
9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock] absorber may be checked by bouncing 0*1 vehicle at each comer. Generally speaking. th»| body will return to its normal position and 8top| after being depressed. If It rises and returns cn| a rebound, the suspension strut/shocH absorber is probably suspect. Examine also* the suspension strut/shock absorber uppeij and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
18 Auxiliary drivebeltfs) % check and renewal
Note: Fiat specify the use of a spec/a/ toot to correctly set the drivebelt fens/on. if access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described beiow. If the method described Is used, the tension should be checked using the spec/a/ too! at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one, two or three auxiliary drivebeits may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an individual drivebelt. Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up the Iront of the car and support it securely on exie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Remove the right-hand wheel. 5 Remove the Inner cover(s) from under the right-hand wheelarch for access to the right-hand side of the engine. 6 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the auxiliary drivebelt(s) can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt: check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and
16.10a Loosening the alternator drivebelt adjustment bolt
separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear Is visible, the bell should be renewed, 7 If the condition of the belt Is satisfactory, check tho drivebelt tension as described below.
Renewal
Alternator drivebelt 8 On models with air conditioning, remove the compressor drivebelt as described below, 9 Unclip and remove the upper timing belt cover, then unbolt end remove the lower timing belt cover. 10 Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment lockbolt then unscrew the adjustment bolt to move the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebelt may be slipped off the alternator, crankshaft, and, on models with air con-ditioning, the Idler pulley (see Illustrations), 11 When renewing a drivebelt. ensure that the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys then tighten the adjustment bolt to take up any slsck In the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Power steering pump drivebelt
12 Remove the alternator drivebelt as described previously. 13 Slacken the bolts securing the power steering pump to the mounting bracket. 14 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until ail the tension Is removed from the dnvebelt. 15 Undo the bolts and remove the pulley guard from the power steering pump then slip the drivebelt off the pulleys,
16.10b Removing the drivebelt from the alternator pulley
18 Ensuring that the correct type of dnveberti^ used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn
the
adjusting bolt to just take up the slack in thi j belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described! below. Air conditioning compressor drivebelt 17 Slacken the bolts securing the adjustment j pulley bracket to the engine. 18 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and] turn the adjusting bolt until ell the tension is | removed from the drivebelt. then slip the be& | off the pulleys. 19 Ensuring that the correct type of drivebeX; is used, fit ihe belt around the pulleys and turn | the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack
m
] the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below.
Tensioning 20 Correct tensioning of the belt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overiightenlng. as this can cause wear in the alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor bearings. Note: Flat recommend use of their spec's/ tensioning tool however the following procedure will set the tension correctly. 21 The belt(s) should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys. To adjust, tighten or loosen the relevant adjustment bolt until the tension is correct. Fully tighten the pivot and adjustment lockbotts. Repeat this procedure for any remaining drivebeits removed for access. 22 Refit the lower timing belt cover end tighten the mounting bolts. 23 Refit the upper timing belt cover and secure with the clips. 24 Refit the inner cover and wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, then reconnect the battery negative terminal.
17 Clutch adjustment check
Refer lo Chapter 6, Section 2.

Every 20 000 miles - diesel models ib.h
18
Valve clearance check and
adjustment
1 The Importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be Distressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear nas become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be ttcurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right-hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front roadwfteei. 3 Remove ail four glove plugs as described In Chapter 5C. 4 Remove the air cleaner cover and air duct
then
remove the camshaft cover as described
in
Chapter 2C. 6 Each valve clearance must be checked wnen the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances in the firing order 1-3-4-2, No 1 cylinder being at the timing belt end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between
the heel
of the cam and the cam follower shim of the First valve (see Illustration). If necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the
vafve
clearance tor Ihis particular valve. 8 Turn the engine, check the second valve devance and record it. t Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves. recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs - see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the
engine,
the valve sequence is: Wef 2-4-5-7 Etfiat/sf 7-3-6-8
11 Where clearances are incorrect the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to bo depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job. otherwise you will have to make up a forked lever to locate on the rim of ihe cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim (see illustration). 12 Once Ihe shim is extracted, establish Its thickness and change it for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded clear-ance within specification, For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on ihem; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). 14 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft lor easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the Ihinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and glosvplugs. 18 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
19 Hinge and lock lubrication
I
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock stnkers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them if necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
20 Headlight beam adjustment
I
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam Is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of, and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door. 3 Draw a horizontal tine on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car. then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum Illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If not, turn the adjustment screw located on the upper Inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it Is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment,

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
Refitting 6 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head and make sure tt Is correctly seated. 7 Lower the cover onto the gasket making sure the gasket Is not displaced, 8 Insert the mounting bolts and tighten them securely In a progressive sequence. Position Ihe support brackets as noted during removal. 9 Clip ihe coolant hoses in position then refil the air ducting.
7 Camshaft oil seal -renewal
8 Crankshaft oil seals -renswal I
9 Cylinder head -
removal
and refitting
1 Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket as descnbed in Sections 4 and 5. 2 Using a suitable hooked instrument, remove tho oil seal from the cylinder head taking care nol to damage the surface of the camshafl. Alternatively drill a small hole In tho oil seal and Insert a self-topping screw - the seal can then be removed by pulling on the screw with a pair of pliers. 3 Clean the seating In the cylinder head and tho end of the camshaft To prevent damage to the new oil seal as It is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end ol the camshaft and lightJy oil it. 4 Dip tho new ail s«al In oil then locate it over Ihe camshaft making sure that the sealing lips are facing inwards. 5 Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely into the cylinder h*ad. Remove the adhesive tap© 6 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Sections 6 and 4.
Front (right-hand side) oil seal t The front oil seal is located in the oil pump casing on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5, 2 Using a suitable hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. Alternatively drill a small hole In the oil soal and insert a self-tapping screw - the seal can then be removed by pulling on the screw with a pair of pliers. 3 Clean the seating in the oH pump and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new off seal as It Is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of tha crankshaft and lightly oil it. 4 Oip the new oii seal In oil then otter it up to the oil pump casing making sure that the sealing Hps are facing inwards,
8.Ba Rear oil soal and housing
5 Using a suitable tubular drift, driva the oil sea! squarely into the casing. Remove the adhesive tape. 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Sections 5 and 4.
Rear (left-hand side) oil seal Note: The following paragraphs describe renewal of the rear oil seal leaving the housing In position. The alternative mathod is to remove the housing and renew the oil seel on the bench, however there is then the possibility of damaging the sump gasket. Refer to Chapter 2D for details of removing the mar oil sea! housing. 7 Ramove the flywheel as described in Section 10. 8 Using a suitable hooked Instrument. remove 1he oil seat from the roar oil seal housing taking care not to damage Ihe surface of Ihe crankshaft. Alternatively dnll a small hole In the o» seal and insert a self-tapping screw - the seal can ihan be removed by pulling on the screw with a pair of pliers (see Illustrations), 9 Clean the seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft for burrs which may damage the oil seal tip of tno new saal, and It necessary use a Una file to removothem. 10 Dip the new soal in clean engine oil and carefully tocato it over tho crankshafl rear Range making sure that
H
the correct way round. 11 Progressively tap the oH seal into the housing keepfng it square to prevent distortion. A block of wood is useful for this purpose. 12 Refit the flywheel with reference to Section 10.
I
5.8b Using a self-tapping screw and pliers to remove the rear oil seal
Removal Note: The cylinder head bolts are of special splined design and a Fiat tool should be obtained to unscrew them. A Torn key will
not
fit however In practise It was found that a close-fitting Allen key could bo used as an alternative. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Remove tha battery as described In Chapter 5A. 3 Refer to Chapter IB and carry out the following: o) Drain the engine oil, b) Drain the cooling system. 4 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 5 Unbolt and remova the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of the engine. 6 Unbolt and remove the battery mounting tray and disconnect the wiring and lines from the modulator valva and relays. 7 Remove the air eleanar assembly and air duct with reference lo Chapter 4C. 8 Loosen the clip and disconnect the vacuum hosa from the vacuum pump on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 9 Loosen Ihe clips and disconnect the radiator top hose from the cylinder head outlet. Also disconnect the heater inlet hose from the thermostat housing, 10 Loosen the clips and disconnect the expansion tank and heater outlet hoses. 11 Identify all wiring connectors then disconnect them from the cylinder head, 12 Unscrew the expansion tank mounting screws, then disconnect tha expansion tank hoses at their connections to the engine. Remove the expansion tank from tha engine compartment. 13 Release tha clip and disconnect ihe crankcase breather from the left-hand rear of the cylinder head. 14 Unbolt the power steering pump uppar cover bracket then unscrew the pivot ana adjustment bolts while leaving ihe tMd lioses still attached. Release the drivebelt (if still In place) then tie the pump to the bulkhead. 15 Loosen tha clips and disconnect Ihe short coolant hose from the cylinder head outlet to the coolant pump (soe illustration). 18 At the rear of the engine, unbolt and disconnect the oil delivery pipe from the turbocharger (where applicable) and crankcase (see Illustrations). 17 Disconnect the return hose from tha thermostat housing to the coolant pump (see Illustration), 18 Unbolt the metal coolant return pipe and pull it out from the coolant pump inlet elbow (see Illustrations).
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2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included In (his Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for tho cylinder head, cylinder block/crankca9e and all other engine internal components. The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine Internal components. After Section 5, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For Information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, 8 or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 5. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A. B or C that are no longer relevant onca the engine has been removed from ihe car.
2 Engine overhaul -general information
1 It Is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of lectors must be considered. 2 High mileage Is not necessarily an Indication that an overhaul Is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing Is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early In its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption Is an Indication that piston rings, vaivo seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn Perform a compression test, as described In Parts A or B (petrol engines) or C (diesel engines) of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted In place of the oil pressure switch. If it Is extremely low. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to Ihe need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring ell Internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are rebored (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; If necessary, the crankshaft may be reground. to restore the journals. 7 The valves are also servrced as well, since they are usually In less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. A/so. it Is a good Idea to renew the ofI pump whenever the engine i$ overhauled.
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through tho entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult If you follow carefully all of the instructions, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially If pans must be taken to an engineering wo'kd for repair or reconditioning.
9 Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand lools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required (or Inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal, Note: Always wait unt'l the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not. fh ere tore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly Inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled wilh care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Engine and transmission removal -methods
and
precautions
1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage Is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface Is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure wilt help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated In excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission, Safety Ib of primary Importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is Ihe first time you have removed
an
engine, an assistant Bhould Ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of Ihe vehicle. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and Installation safely and wilh relative ease On addition to an engine hoist) Is as follows: a heavy duly trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the reference section of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spitted oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it In advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consul! them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work, 9 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
^ - / //
4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.44a Disconnecting tho radiator top hose from the thermostat housing
4.45b ... and expansion tank hose
lofi-nand side of the cylinder head, From the top ot the radiator and from the expansion tank (see Illustrations). 46 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from the elbow on the cylinder head.
4.49e ... and the adjustment lockbolt...
4.44b Disconnecting the heater hose st the engine
4.49a Remove the front bracket bolt...
47 On models with a speedometer cable, disconnect the cable from the transmission. 48 On models with an electronic speedometer, if necessary disconnect the winng connector on the support bracket. The cable may be left
4.49f ... and tie the power steering pump to the bulkhead
. m " • V;
<4
4.45a Disconnecting the heater return hose...
4.49b ... the belt adjustment bolt...
attached if Ihe transmission Is not being detached from the engine. 49 On models fitted with power steering, unbolt the power steering pump from the rear right-hand side of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie it to one side on the bulkhead so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. To do (his first remove the front bracket bolt, remove the belt adjustment bolt, remove the rear through-bolt, lift away the cover and remove the adjustment lockbolt (see illustrations). On models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position It clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refrigerant pipes/hoses. 50 Disconnect the coolant purge hoses from the top of the radiator and expansion tank (seo illustrations). 51 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the injection pump (see Chapter 4Q.
4.50a Disconnecting the coolant purge hoses from the radiator...

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).

Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
4 If the motor operates when tested as described, (he fault must lie In the engine wring harness or the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor/switch can be tested as described in Section 6. Any further fault Diagnosis should be referred to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer - do not attempt to test
Ihe
electronic control unit.
Removal 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/scon oecf/ng the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray to improve access. On 1242 cc {16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and
inset
ducts as described in Chapter 4B. 1 Disconnect the motor wiring connectorfs). 8 Unbolt the shroud from the rear of the ratiator. then lift out the cooling fan assembly. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal
6 Cooling fan switch -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 The switch is threaded into the lower left
nand
comer of the radiator. 2 The switch can be tested by removing it,
and
checking that the switching action occurs
at
the correct temperature {heat the sensor in a container of water, and monitor the temperature with a thermometer). 3 There should be no continuity between the switch terminals, until Ihe specified cooling fan cut-In temperature Is reached, when continuity (and zero resistance) should exist between the terminals.
Removal 4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 5 Allow the engine to cool completely, then drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1Aor 1B. 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
bolts...
7 Carefully unscrew the sensor and. whore applicable, recover the sealing ring. Refitting 8 If the sensor was originally fitted using sealing compound, clean the sensor threads thoroughly, and coat them with fresh sealing compound. 9 If the sensor was originally fitted using a sealing ring, use a new sealing ring on refitting. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. 11 On completion, start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature. Continue to run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in and out correctly.
7 Coolant pump • & removal, inspection 5 and refitting
Removal
Petrol engine models 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system and remove the auxiliary drivebett(s) as described In Chapter 1 A. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 4 Unscrew the securing bolts/nuts, and withdraw the coolant pump (see illustrations).
7.9b ... and lift off the pulley (diesel engine)
(petrol engine) If the pump Is stuck, tap it gently using a soft-faced mallet - do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Diesel engine models 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/s connecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1B. 7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as descnbed In Chapter 1B. 6 On models fitted with power steenng, refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump from its mountings; this can be achieved without disconnecting the power steering fluid hoses from the pump. Tie the pump away from the work area, taking care to avoid kinking the fluid hoses. 9 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the coolant pump pulley. It will be necessary to counterhold the pulley In order to unscrew the bolts, and this is most easily achieved by wrapping an old drivebelt tightly around the pulley to act in a similar manner to a strap 3 wrench. Alternatively, a stout screwdriver can be braced between two of the pulley bolts while the third is slackened (see illustrations). 10 Disconnect ihe bypass hoses from the coolant pump outlet stubs. 11 Unscrew the securing bolts, and withdraw the coolant pump assembly. Note that the pump must be detached from the transfer pipe than runs behind the cylinder block to the thermostat housing (see illustration). The pipe is a push fit in the port on the rear of the coolant pump
7.11 Removing the coolant pump assembly (diesel engine)