1997 FIAT PUNTO engine plate

DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B*11
camshaft cover plate... 25 Locate the cam follower retaining tools in position and refit the cylinder head extension
as
described In Section 8.

10
Cylinder head - &
removal and
refitting S
Removal Note; The cylinder head bolts are of special
sekned
design and a Fiat tool should be
obtained
to unscrew them. A Ton key will not
JSt however
in practise It was found that a dose-httlng Alien key could be used as an itemative. 1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Remove the cylinder head extension as oescAbed
m
Section 8. 3 Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing on the left-hand end of
Ihe
cylinder head. 4 Disconnect the heater hose from the outlet
at the
rear of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor md temperature gauge sensor wiring plugs
torn
the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 9 Undo the engine oil dipstick tube bracket retaining bolt and the two bolts securing the wing harness support clips to the inlet marriold lower section. 7 Undo Ihe retaining nuts and separate the ixhaust system front pipe from the exhaust manifold flange.
8
Check that nothing remains attached to the cinder head likely to impede removal. It Is assumed that the head will be removed complete with exhaust manifold and inlet manifold lower section. 9 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts half a turn K
e
time in the reverse order to that shown in (lustration 10.20a. When the bolts are free. «mwe them from their locations.. Id Lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is stuck tight rock the head to break the joint by mans of the manifolds. On no account drive
levers
into the gasket Joint, nor attempt to tap tf« head sideways, as it is located on positioning dowels. 11 Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket.
JK'
l^. 9.22b ... then apply RTV gasket sealant to the cover plate contact face 12 Refer to Chapter 20 for cylinder head dismantling and inspection procedures. Preparation for refitting 13 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly dean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns, Take particular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages -this Is particularly important for the lubncahon system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine's components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little grease In the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap. then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way. 14 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but If excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface Is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 15 Check the condition of the cylinder head bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever they are removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable
sequence
9.24 Lubricate the cam followers and place them in position in their respective bores solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting the assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that the bolt holes in the cylinder block have been mopped out to clear any oil, 17 The now gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit Ihe gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly clean. 18 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above. 19 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that it locates on the positioning dowel. 20 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean and lightly lubricated. Screw the bolts in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, lighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torquo setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge Is used during this stage ot tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 21 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe to the manifold using a new flange gasket.
10.20b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stago 1 torque setting ...

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
2C*11

10 firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
Ihe
front of the car and support it securely on
arte stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 11 Working under the wheelarch. remove the splash guard, than unbolt and remove the outer cover over the crankshaft pulley (see ilustratlon). 12 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 13 Unbolt and remove the lower timing cover from the cylinder block (see Illustration). Note that one of the bolts is located at the
Iron!
of the engine. 14 Unscrew the four socket-headed bolts
and
remove the pulley from the front of the crankshaft (see illustrations). Recover the {pacer plate. 15 Turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation (using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft sprocket centre bolt) until pressure
can be
felt at No 1 cylinder gtowplug hole. 16 Continue turning the engine until the TDC timing marks on the camshaft and fuel injection pump sprockets are aligned with the corresponding marks on the timing belt inner cover, and the crankshaft sprocket timing
mark
is aligned with the mark on the oil pump cover (see illustration). 17 Tne engine is now set at TDC tor No 1 e>llnder on compression.
114a Unscrew and remove the socket-headed bolts and spacer...
2.11 Removing the outer cover over the 2.13 Removing the lower timing cover crankshaft pulley
2.14b ... and remove the pulley from the 2.18 Sprocket timing mark positioning with No 1 cylinder et TDC front of the crankshaft

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
10.2 Locking the flywheel using a homo* made tool
10 Flywheel - £ removal, inspection § and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove the transmission and clutch as described in Chapter 7A and 6, 2 Lock the tlywheei in position using a home-made locking tool, fabricated from a piece of scrap metal. Boll it to one of the transmission belihousing mounting holes (see illustration). Mark the position of the flywheel with respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. Note that although there is only one location dowel on the flywheel, there are two holes In the end ol the crankshaft and it Is therefore possible to locate tne flywheel 180v out resulting in the timing mark being In Ihe incorrect position. 3 Unscrew and remove the flywheol mounting bolts then lift olf the llywheel. Recover the spacer piate (see illustrations). Discard the flywheol retaining bolts: new ones must be used on refitting,
Inspection 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface >s deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywhoel must be renewed. However, H may be possible to have It surface-ground: seek the advice of a Fiat dealer or engine reconditioning specialist, 5 If the ring gear Is bsdly worn or has missing teeth, the flywheel must be renewed.
Refitting 6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if available.
HBTiffSrl If a suitable tap Is not
Wijlilfil
available, cut two slots down HlNTi threads of one of the old 1 J flywheel bolts with a hacksaw, and use the bolt to removo the locking compound form tho threads.
7 If the now flywheel retaining bous are not
10.8a Location dowel on the flywheel
supplied with their threads already pre* coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 8 Otter up the flywheel to the crankshaft, using the abgnment marks made during removal, and fit the new retaining oolts together with the spacer plate (see Illustrations). 9 Lock the flywheel using Ihe method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. 10 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. Remove the locking tool and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A,
11 Engine mountings -inspection and renewal
Inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened or separated from the metal ai any point; renew Ihe mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are securely tightened, 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear In the mounting by carefully levering against il to check for free ploy. Where this is not possible enlist the aid of an assistant to move the onglno/transmission back and forlh. or from side lo side, while you watch the mounting While some free play is to be
10.8b Inserting tho flywheel bolts
expected even from new components, axcessive wear should be obvious. II excessive free play Is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.
Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 If not already done, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front ot tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vohicle support), 6 Place a trolley lack beneath the right-hand side of the engine, with a block of wood on Ihe jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Unscrew the bolts securing the nght-hand mounting to the body (see illustration). 8 Unscrew the special long nut securing the mounting to Ihe engine and recover the washers.
11.7 Right-hand engine mounting viewed from below

2014 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
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•
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13.5 Note the location of the bracket on the oil pump 13.6 Prising the oil seal from the oil pump housing 13.7 Using an impact drivor to loosen the oil pump cover screws
'' r' -*•<- ^
- •
• J
; v _Vc >•
13.6a Removing the inner rotor... 13.8b ... and outer rotor 13.9a Depress tho relief valve collar and remove the retaining plate...
JB <0
1MU55U
13.9b ... then remove the seat... 13.9c ... spring ... 13.9d ... and valve
. ' IT
® f
9 ; I 1 13.9e Oil pump housing and components 13.10a Checking the outer rotor-to-casing clearance 13.10b Checking the rotor endplay

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11
X
a 13.14 Fitting the new oil seal to the oil pump casing
S Unscrew the bolts securing the oil pump to Ihe front of the cylinder block and withdraw it over the nose of the crankshaft. Note the location of the bracket (see Illustration). Recover the gasket.
Inspection 8 Prise the oil seal from the front of the oil pump using a screwdriver (see Illustration). 7 Unscrew the crosshead screws and lift off the cover. The screws are tight and are best loosened using an impact driver (see illustration). S Lift out the two rotors keeping them identified for position in relation to each other (see illustrations). 9 Depress the relief valve collar, then extract the retaining plate and withdraw the seat, spring and valve (see illustrations). 10 Clean the pump thoroughly, and Inspect the rotors for signs of damage or wear. Using a feeler blade, check the wear between the outer rotor and oil pump casing. Using the feeler blade and a straight-edge, check the endptay of Ihe rotors. If the rotors are worn in excess of the specified amount given in Specifications, the oil pump should be renewed as a complete unit (see Illustrations). 11 Check the condition of the relief valve and seating - If worn excessively the pump must be renewed. 12 If the components are In good condition, reassemble the pump using a reversal of the dismantling procedure. Before fitting the cover the rotors should be oiled and the cavity
13.15 Engine oil dipstick rubber grommet in the oil pump casing between them filled with clean engine oil. Make sure the cover screws are fully tightened. 13 Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the oil pump and cylinder block. 14 Dip the new oil seal in engine oil then locate it on the front of the oil pump with the sealing lips facing Inwards. Use a suitable tubular drift (or socket) to drive the seal into the oil pump casing (see illustration). 16 Examine the dipstick tube rubber grommet in the oil pump and renew il If necessary (see illustration).
Refitting 16 Smear a little engine oil on both sides of the new gasket then locate it on the cylinder block (see illustration), 17 To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is passed over the nose of the crankshaft, wrap some adhesive tape around it and lightly oil it. 18 Carefully locate the oil pump over the crankshaft taking care not to damage the oil seal then Insert the bolts loosely. Remove the adhesive tape (see Illustration). 19 Using a straight-edge, position the oil pump so that the sump mating surface Is level with the surface of the crankcase (see illustration). With the pump correctly positioned, securely tighten the bolts in an even and progressive sequence. 20 Refit the oil pick-up tube together with a new gasket, and securely tighten the mounting bolts. 21 Refit the sump with reference to Section 12.
13.16 Positioning the oil pump gasket on the cylinder block 22 Refit the crankshaft sprocket with reference to Section 5 and the timing belt with reference to Section 4. 23 When starling the engine, let it Idle until the oil pressure warning light goes out.
14 Oil cooler -removal and refitting I I
Removal 1 The oil cooler is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. First remove the front bumper as described In Chapter 11. 2 Unbolt the support bar for the radiator and oil cooler. 3 Support the oil cooler then unscrew the upper mounting boll. Lower the cooler to the extent of the hoses. 4 Position a container beneath the cooler then unscrew the Inlet and outlet union nuts and disconnect the hoses from the oil filter. Note the fitted positions of the hoses for correct refitting. Allow the oil to drain into the container. 5 Fully unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the hoses from the oil cooler.
Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but top-up the engine oil level as necessary. Run the engine and check for leaks.
13.18 Locating the oil pump over the end of the crankshaft 13.19 Checking that the oil pump and sump mating surfaces are correctly aligned with a straight-edge

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
^ - / //
4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.36a Relay guard mounting nuts 4.36b Battery tray and mounting bolts 4.36c Disconnect the engine wiring harness located above the transmission .
4.36d ... the inner wiring plug ...
sure that the dnveshaft is positioned to clear Ihe lower suspension arm when the engine is removed. 34 Disconnect the left-hand driveahaft using the same procedure
4.41 Engine wiring harness connections to the battery positive cable
4.36e ... and the outer wiring plug
35 Remove the exhaust front downpipe witfl reference to Chapter 4D. Diesel engines 36 Unbolt and remove the roiay guard then disconnect the wiring as applicable and unbolt the battery tray (see Illustrations). 37 Disconnect tho gear selector cable from the transmission by removing the retaining plate and prising the socket end off Ihe ball on the lever. Use a pair of pliors to pull out the plate. Tie the cable to the bulkhead (see illustration). 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the ievor on the top of the transmission, 39 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct by unscrewing the two bolls securing the duct to the valve cover and loosening the clip securing the duct to the air cleaner. Refer to Chapter 4C if necessary.
4.37 Tie tho gear selector cable to the bulkhead
40 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the vacuum pump on the left-hand side of the cylinder head and disconnect the wiring plug located over the transmission, 41 Unscrew ihe nuts and disconnect the engine wiring harness from the battery positive cable (see illustration) 42 At the fuel filter unscrew the union bolt and disconnect the fuei delivery hose lor the injection pump. Use polythene and an elastic band to cover the end of the hose (see illustrations). 43 At the fuel injection pump unscrew the clip and disconnect thie fuel return hose (see illustration). 44 Disconnect the radiator top hose from the thermostat housing on tho left-hand side of the cylinder head, and also disconnect the healer hose at Ihe engine (see illustrations). 45 Disconnect the heater return hose and expansion tank hose from the elbow on the
4.42a Unscrew the union bolt and disconnect the fuel delivery hose from the fuel filter 4.42b Cover the end of the hose to prevent dust entry 4.43 Disconnecting the fuel return hose from the fuel injection pump

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
60 At the otl filter, unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the oil cooler lines/hoses then remove the oil cooler from the vehicle (see Illustration). Be prepared for some oil leakage. Note the fitted position of the hoses before disconnecting them so that they can be refitted correctly. 61 Disconnect the reversing light wiring from Ihe switch on the front of the transmission (see illustration) 82 Using an Allen key, unscrew the bolts securing the inner ends of the driveshafts to the flanges on the transmission. The right-hand driveshaft is disconnected from the Intermediate shaft flange on the rear of the engine. Recover the plates beneath the heads ol the driveshaft bolls (see illustrations). 63 Unscrew the bolts securing the front sv/lvel hub assemblies to the struts. Also
4.59c Removing the radiator from the vehicle
4.62a Use an Allen key to unscrew the inner driveshaft bolts
release the flexible brake hoses from the struts. 64 Move the swivel hub assemblies outwards and support the inner ends of the dnveshafts on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Take care not to strain the flexible brake hoses. 65 Remove the exhaust front pipe with reference to Chaptor 4D. If difficulty is expenenced in separating Ihe front pipe from the intermediate pipe, it may prove easier to remove the complete exhaust system. Ail models 66 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine and transmission lifting eyes (see illustration). The left-hand eye is located on the transmission and the right-hand one on the right-hand side of the engine, Take the weight of the engine/transmission.
4.60 Loosening the union nuts securing the oil cooler lines to the oil filter housing
4.62b Removing the driveshaft bolts and plates
67 Working boneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing tne rear engine mounting to the underbody and transmission, and withdraw the mounting. 68 In the engine compartment, unscrew the bolts securing the right-hand engine mounting to the body and engine. For additional working room completely remove the mounting. 69 Unscrew the boils securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body. For additional working room completely remove Ihe mounting. 70 With the help of an assistant lower the engine/transmission from the engino compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components (see illustration). Ideally lower the unit onto a low trolley so that it may be withdrawn from under the vehicle. Disconnect the hoist from ihe assembly.
4.61 Disconnecting the reversing light wiring
4.66 Attaching a hoist to tho ongine and transmission assembly