1997 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN towing

Towing Your Vehicle
Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing
service tow your vehicle. See “Roadside Assistance” in
the Index. They can provide the right equipment and
know-how to tow it without damage.
If
your vehicle has been changed since it was
factory-new, by adding such things as
fog lamps, aero
skirting,
or special tires and wheels, these things could
be damaged during towing.
Before you
do anythmg, turn on the hazard warning flashers.
When you call, tell the towing service:
That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has
The make, model and year of your vehicle.
Whether you can move the shift lever for the
If there was an accident, what was damaged.
the
four-wheel-drive option.
transmission and transfer case,
if you have one. When
the towing service arrives, let the tow operator
know that this manual contains these towing
instructions. The operator may want to see them.
To help avoid injury to you or others:
0 Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is
0 Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.
being
towed.
~ 0 Never tow with damaged parts not
’ 0 Never get under your vehicle after it has
~ been lifted by the tow truck.
fully
secured.
0 Always use separate safety chains on each
side when towing a vehicle.
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Towing From the Front
A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t
adequately secured. This can cause a collision,
serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The
vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or
steel cables before it is transported.
Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps,
canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp
edges underneath the towed vehicle.
Don’t have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels
unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed
on the
drive wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance
restrictions later in this section or your transmission will
be damaged.
If these limitations must be exceeded, then
the drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly. If
your vehicle is four-wheel drive with a manual
transfer case, use the following directions:
1. Turn the ignition key to the off position.
2. Engage the parking brake.
3. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for towing
service. (Do not use the vehicle’s steering column
lock for this.)
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4. Put the transmission in PARK (P).
5. Put the transfer case in NEUTRAL (N).
6. When the vehicle is hooked up, release the
7. Maximum speed 55 mph (88 km/h),
If your vehicle is a two-wheel drive or a four-wheel
drive with an electric shift transfer case, use the
following directions:
1. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
2. Engage the parking brake.
3. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
parking
brake.
distance unlimited.
position with a clamping device designed for towing
service.
(Do not use the vehicle’s steering column
lock for this.)
4. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).
5. Put the transfer case in 2HIGH (2HI).
6. When the vehicle is hooked up, release the
7. Maximum speed 35 mph (55 km/h), maximum
parking
brake.
distance
50 miles (80 km).
Towing From the Rear
I 3
NOTICE:
If your vehicle is equipped with a manual or
electric shift transfer case, a towing dolly must be
used under the front wheels or vehicldpowertrain
damage will occur.
SI1 n
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Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine.
In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So you may
hear an increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages. It’s
unusual for a tire to “blow out’’ while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what
to do:
If
a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your
foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then’ gently brake to
a stop well out
of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how
to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE
(R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If
that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need
to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if
your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out,
see “Towing Your Vehicle’’ in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The
recovery hooks are provided at the front
of your vehicle.
You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road
and need
to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to
replace the
air filter. See “Owner Checks and Services”
in the Index.
A CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can
cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner
not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine
backfhes.
If it isn’t there, and the engine
backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with
it
off, and be careful working on the engine with
the
air cleaner off.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a
damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get
into your engine, which will damage
it. Always
have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every
50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more
of these conditions:
0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches
90°F (32 “C) or higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you
may choose to have this done at your
GM dealership
Service Department.
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Maintenance Schedule
I Long Trip/Highway Definition -- Gacoline Engines
Follow this maintenance schedule only if none of the
conditions from the Short Trip/City Maintenance
Schedule is true. Do not use this schedule if the vehicle
is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area or used
off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City schedule for
these conditions.
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under
highway conditions causes engine oil to break
down slowel:
1 Long TripMighway Intervals -- Gasoline Engines I
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or every
12 months, whichever occurs first).
Chassis Lubrication (or every 12 months, whichever
occurs first). Drive Axle Service. Tire Rotation.
Underhood Insulation Inspection (GVWR above
8,500 lbs. only).
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Shields and
Long TripMighway Intervals -- Gasoline Engines
Every
30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Fuel Filter
Replacement. Front Wheel Bearing Repack
(2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever
occurs first).
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (severe conditions only).
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory
Drive Belt Inspection. Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines
Inspection. Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
Inspection. Evaporative Control System Inspection.
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System
Service (or every
60 months, whichever occurs first).
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to
follow the complete maintenance schedule
on the following pages.
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Short Trip/City Maintenance Schedule -- Gasoline Engines I
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
( 166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles
(166
000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown
at
150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at
the same interval after 150,000 miles (240
000 km).
See “Owner Checks and Services’’ and “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections” following.
Footnotes
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the
completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance
be recorded.
# Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings,
steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, transfer case
shift linkage, parking brake cable guides, front axle
propshaft splines and brake pedal springs. Ball joints and kingpin bushings should not
be lubricated unless
their temperature
is 10” F (- 12” C) or higher, or they
could be damaged.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under “Periodic
Maintenance Inspection” in Part
C of this schedule.
** Drive axle service (see “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index for proper lubricant to use):
Locking Differential -- Drain fluid and refill at first
engine oil change. At subsequent oil changes, check
fluid level and add fluid as needed.
If driving in
dusty areas or towing a trailer, drain fluid and refill
every
15,000 miles (25 000 km).
Standard Differential -- Check fluid level and add
fluid as needed at every oil change.
If driving in
dusty areas or towing a trailer, drain fluid and refill
every
15,000 miles (25 000 km).
heavy-duty or off-road use.
More frequent lubrication may be required for
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