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Battery, Starter, Alternator
Water-cooled alternator
The water-cooled alternator, used on 1999 and later M62 TU
engines, is a sealed unit housed inside the engine block wa-
ter jacket. It is cooled via the engine cooling system. It is a
"brushless" sealed unit that cannot be serviced. Maintaining
consistent alternator temperatures increases the life span of
the alternator, and elimination of the alternator cooling fan re-
duces alternator noise
significantly.
The M62 TU water-cooled alternator incorporates load start
reduction. This function is intended to shorten the duration of
engine starting, particularly at low ambienttemperatures. The
current load is limited to
20 amps during starting in order to re-
duce alternator braking torque on the engine. Following the
current limiting phase, full power output is then progressively
reached.
Charging system diagnostics requires special test equip-
ment. If the test equipment is not available, charging system
fault diagnosis can be performed by an authorized
BMW
dealer or other qualified repair shop. See Table a. Battery,
alternator and starter troubleshooting for general electri-
cal component troubleshooting.
Before checking the alternator, make sure the battery is fully
charged and capable of holding a charge. Check that the bat-
tery terminals are clean and tight and the alternator drive belt
is properly tensioned and not severely worn.
NOTE-
Some model require up to 15 second to reacli full alternator
output.
CA UTIOG
If the charge indicator light in the instrument cluster remains
on, the charge warning circuit in the instrument cluster may
be faulty. Check that the ground lead is securely
affached to
the grounding stud on the cylinder head
(A). Replacing the
instrument cluster before repairing the ground lead will both
damage the instrument cluster and cause the failure to
reoccur.
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- -
/Battery, Starter, Alternator -- - -. - --I
< Check for battery voltage at alternator terminal 30 (B+) (ar-
row):
Pull back rubber insulating cover at terminal 30 at rear of
alternator.
Connect voltmeter between terminal 30 and ground and
check for battery voltage.
If voltage is not present, check
wiring for faults.
NOTE-
On V-8 engines, access to the rear of the alternator is limited.
Check for battery voltage between the jump start post on the
left cylinder head and ground.
r Disconnect harness connector from alternator. Turn ianition
on and check for battery voltage between terminal
lgand
ground. If voltage is not present, check wiring and fuses for
faults.
Reconnect connector to alternator.
Locate the blue wire coming from terminal
61E of the alter-
nator connector. Carefully connect the positive
(+) test lead
to the wire using a piercing test lead end.
Turn ignition key on and check for voltage. Voltage should be
less than 1.5 VDC and charge indicator lamp should light.
- Making sure all test equipment and tools are clear, start en-
gine. Voltage should increase to
8.0 VDC or higher. The
charge indicator light should go out.
If voltage does not increase and system is not charging,
the fault is in alternator.
- If voltage does not increase, but system is charging, inter- - roaate svstem for faults usina an appropriate BMW scan - .. . tool and'reset fault memory.
- If a load tester is not available, a quick alternator output test
can be done by running engine at about 2000 rpm and turn-
- -
ing on electrical loads (fans, lights, rear window defroster, -
- and wipers). With all accessories on, battery voltage should
be above 12.6
V.
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Radiator and Cooling System
Remove rubber trim strip between top of shroud and radiator.
Using 32 mm wrench
(BMW special tool 11 5 040) on fan
clutch nut (arrow), turn wrench in a clockwise direction
(working from front of car) while counterholding pulley with
BMW special tool
11 5 030. Spin fan off coolant pump.
NOTE-
The radiator cooling fan nut (32 mm wrench) has left-hand
threads.
Unclip AUC (air quality) sensor from shroud,
M54 engine: Disconnect auxiliary coolant pump from base of
fan shroud.
Lift fan and shroud together out of engine compartment.
To replace fan clutch, remove fan mounting bolts and sepa-
rate viscous clutch from fan.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Tightening
torques
Clutch nut to pump
Without
BMW tool 11 5 040 40 Nm (29 ft-lb)
With BMW tool 11 5 040 30 Nm
(22 ft-lb)
Fan to viscous clutch 10 Nm (89 in-lb)
Electric cooling fan, removing and
installing
The electric cooling fan is mounted behind the front bumper,
in front of the
A/C condenser.
- Remove front bumper. See 510 Exterior Trim, Bumpers.
- Remove left and right headlights. See 630 Lights,
- Where applicable, detach horizontal air ducts behind front
bumper and fold to side.
- Disconnect fan electrical connector on right side of radiator
shroud and lay aside.
- Detach wire loom from air duct in front of cooling fan
- Pry out expansion rivets holding air duct. Slide air duct down-
ward to remove.
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... .
Exhaust System
- With exhaust system fully cold, raise and support car for ac-
cess to exhaust system.
WARNING -
Do not worlc under a lifted car unless it is solidly supported on
jack stands designed for that purpose. Never work under a
car that is supported solely by a
jack.
- Disconnect oxygen sensor connector(s).
4 Loosen and remove bolts holding front exhaust pipes to ex-
haust manifolds (arrows). Right side of
V8 model shown.
- Support exhaust system
- Where applicable, disconnect exhaust support bracket as-
sembly from transmission.
< Remove hangers by prying off bracket (arrows).
- Lower exhaust system as a single unit to ground.
NOTE-
If the catalytic converterlfront exhaust pipe assembly is to be
replaced, transfer the oxygen sensors to the new
pipe(s).
Tightening torque
Oxygen sensor
55 Nm (41 ft-lb)
- installation is reverse of removal.
* Make sure there is at least 20 mm (314 in.) clearance be-
tween exhaust system and car body at every point.
Loosely install
ail exhaust system mounting hardware and
hangers before tightening fasteners to their final torque.
Coat manifold studs with copper paste before installing
nuts.
NOTE-
Where applicable, tighten front pipe with semi-flexible com-
pensator last when installing front pipe to
manifolds.
Tightening torques
Exhaust manifolds
to cylinder head 22 Nm (1 7 It-lb)
Front exhaust pipe to manifolds 30 Nm (22 ft-lb)
To prevent exhaust system rattles and vibration, the system
should be slightly preloaded by pushing the rear clamping
brackets forward about 7 mm (114 in).
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Manual Transmission
4 V-8 engine: Remove transmission mounting Tom-head bolts
(arrows). Note length and location of bolts.
Remove transmission by pulling backward until transmis-
sion input shaft clears clutch disc splines, then pull down-
wards. Lower transmission jack to remove transmission.
- Installation is reverse of removal, keeping in mind the
following:
When installing a new transmission, be sure to transfer
parts from old transmission
if applicable.
Thoroughly clean input shafl and clutch disc splines. Light-
ly lubricate transmission input shaft before installing.
* Be sure bellhousing alignment dowel sleeves are located
correctly. Replace damaged sleeves.
Center rear of transmission in driveshaft tunnel before
tightening transmission support bracket.
NOTE-
In order to avoid difficulties in transmission removal at a fu-
ture time, use washers with Torx-head mounting bolts.
- Reinstall driveshaft. Use new nuts when mounting driveshaff
to transmission/flex disc. See 260 Driveshaft.
- Refill transmission with appropriate lubricant before starting
or towing car. See Transmission fluid service earlier in this
repair group.
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Driveshaft
- Road test vehicle to check for noise or vibration
CAUTION-
Do not reuse self-locking nuts. These nuts are designed to
be used only once.
Avoid stressing the flex-disc when torquing the bolts.
Do this by counterholding the bolts and turning the nuts
on the flange side.
Tightening torques
Alunlinum driveshaft to flex-disc
- MI2 (use coated washers)
90 Nm (66 ft-lb)
Driveshaft
CV joint to final drive flange
Mi0 (Tom bolt)
70 Nm (51 ft-lb)
M8 (compression nut) 32 Nm (24 ft-lb)
Flex-disc to transmission flange or driveshaft
MI0 (8.8 grade) 48 Nm (35 ft-lb)
MI 0 (1 0.9 grade) 60 Nm (44 ft-lb)
- Mi2 (8.8 grade)
81 Nm (60 ft-lb)
- MI2 (10.9 grade) I00 Nm (74 ft-lb)
MI4 140 Nm (103 ft-lb)
Transmission
crossmember
to transmission (ME) 21 Nm (15 ft-lb)
. to chassis (M10) 42 Nm (30 ft-lb)
NOTE-
Boltgrade is marked on the bolt head. When replacing bolts,
only use bolts of the same strength and hardness as the orig-
inals installed.
Flex-disc, replacing
- Checlc flex-disc between front section of driveshafl and trans-
mission output flange for craclts, tears, missing pieces, or
distortion. Check for worn bolt hole bores in flange.
- If flex-disc needs replacement, remove driveshafl as de-
scribed earlier.
- Unbolt flex-disc from driveshaft.
NOTE-
Removal andinstallation of the bolts may be made easier by
placing a large hose clamp around the flex-disc, and tighten-
ing the clamp slightly to compress the rubber.
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31 0-5
Front ~uspensionl
Front strut assembly, removing and
installing
- Raise car and remove front wheel.
WARNING-
Make sure that the car is firmly supported on jack stands de-
signed for the purpose. Place jack stands underneath struc-
tural chassis points.
Do not place jack stands under
suspension
parts.
- Unbolt bralte caliper assembly, lkeeping bralte hose connect-
ed. Secure brake caliper to body with wire. Do not let it hang
from brake hose. See
340 Brakes.
Remove ABS pulse sensor mounting bolts (arrows) and re-
move sensor from housing.
Detach ABS sensor wire harness and bralte pad wear sensor
wire harness (if equipped) from strut housing.
Loosen and remove stabilizer bar link mounting nut while
counterholding
link ball joint. Disconnect stabilizer link from
strut.
NOTE-
Use a thin wrench to counterhold shaft of stabilizer bar link
ball joint.
- Cars equipped with vertical headlight adjustment system:
Disconnect control arm from level sensor.
4 Remove outer tie rod end nut. Use BMW special tool 31 2
240 or equivalent to press tie rod end out of steering arm.
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/~ront Susaension
Front suspension arms FRONT SUSPENSION ARMS
Scyllnder models (5251,5281,530i)
Control arms and tension struts are attached to the front sub-
Front suspension arms V-8 models (5401)
frame through rubber bushings and to the steering ltnuckles
by ball joints.
NOTE-
Tension struts are sometimes called thrust arms or thrust
rods.
Control arms or tension struts are sometimes called lower
front arms or lower rear arms.
Inspect ball joints for wear and looseness. lnspect bushings
for wear or fluid
lealts. The ball joint can only be replaced as
part of an entire suspension arm assembly. Some suspen-
sion arm
bushinas are available as re~lacement Darts. Al-
ways replace in pairs
NOTE-
Steering wheel vibration during braking (usually at road
speeds of
50 to 60 m.p.h.) are often causedby faulty suspen-
sion arm bushings, not out-of-true brake rotors.
Some special tools may be required to remove suspension
arms and to replace bushings. Read procedures through be-
fore beginning the job.
Control arm, removing and installing
(6-cylinder models)
- Raise car and remove wheel
Male sure
that the car is firmly supported on jack stands de-
signed for the purpose. Place jack stands underneath struc-
tural chassis points. Do not place jack stands under
suspension
parfs.
Cars equipped with vertical headlight adjustment system:
Disconnect control arm from level sensor.
Remove control arm fasteners (arrows). Lightly tap inner
control arm mounting bolt out of subframe.