1996 HONDA ODYSSEY lock

Changing a Flat Tire

9. Loosen the five wheel nuts 1/2
turn with the wheel wrench.
LX model:
Do no
t attempt to forcibly pry the
wheel cover off with a screwdriver or

other tool. The wheel cover
cannot b
e removed without first
removing

the wheel nuts. 10.Find th
e jacking point nearest the
wheel yo

u are removing. Place th e
jac

k under the jacking point. Turn
the en

d bracket clockwise until
the

top of the jack contacts the
jacking point. Make sure the
jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch. 11.Use the extension and wheel
wrench as shown to raise
the car
until the flat tire is off the ground.

CONTINUED

Taking

Care of the Unexpected

WHEEL

NUTS

JACKING POINT WHEEL WRENC
H
EXTENSION
ProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t Table of Contents

Changing a Flat Tire

18.Remove the spacer cone from the wing bolt, turn it over, and put itback on the bolt.
19.Install the flat tire and storage bin on the side panel as shown. Secure
them by screwing the wing boltback into its hole. 20.Put the spare tire cover in the

storage bin.

21. Knot the top of the vinyl bag as
shown.
22.Store the jack in its holder. Turn
the jack's end bracket clockwise to
lock it in place. Replace the tool
tray and store the tool kit. Installthe armrest pad.
23.Store the wheel cover or center cap in the cargo area. Make sure it
will not get scratched or damaged.
Taking Care of the Unexpected STORAGE BINProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t Table of Contents

If Your Engine Won't Start
Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending
on what you hear when you turn the
key to START (III): You hear nothing, or almost
nothing. The engine's starter
motor does not operate at all, oroperates very slowly. You can hear the starter motor
operating normally, but the engine
does not start up and run. Nothing Happens or the Starter
Motor Operates Very Slowly
When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the
normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound
or series of clicks, or nothing at all.Check these things:
Check the transmission interlock.
The transmission must be in Park or Neutral or the starter will not

operate.
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all,
the battery is discharged. See
Jump Starting on page 200. Turn the ignition switch to START
(III). If the headlights do not dim,
check the condition of the fuses. If
the fuses are OK, there is proba-
bly something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition
switch or starter motor. You will
need a qualified technician todetermine the problem. (See
Towing on page 213.)
If the headlights dim noticeably or
go out when you try to start theengine, either the battery is dis-
charged or the connections are
corroded. Check the condition of
the battery and terminal connec- tions (see page 162 ). You can
then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 200 ).
Taking Care of the UnexpectedProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t Table of Contents

If Your Engine Overheats

4. If the temperature gauge stays at the red mark, turn off the engine.
5. Wait until you see no more signs of steam or spray, then open the

hood.

6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks, such as a split radiator hose.
Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it
must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on
page 213 ).
7. If you don't find an obvious leak, check the coolant level in the
radiator reserve tank (see page150 ). If the level is below the
MIN mark, add coolant to half-way
between the MIN and MAX marks.
8. If there was no coolant in the reserve tank, you may also have toadd coolant to the radiator. Let the
engine cool down until the pointer reaches the middle of the tempera-
ture gauge, or lower, before check-
ing the radiator.
9. Using gloves or a large heavy cloth, turn the radiator capcounterclockwise, without pushing
down, to the first stop. This
releases any remaining pressure in
the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on
the cap and turn it until it comesoff. 10.Start the engine and set the
temperature control lever tomaximum. Add coolant to the
radiator up to the base of the filler
neck. If you do not have the
proper coolant mixture available,
you can add plain water. Remember to have the coolingsystem drained and refilled with
the proper mixture as soon as you
can.

11. Put the radiator cap back on tightly. Run the engine and watch
the temperature gauge. If it goesback to the red mark, the engine
needs repair. (See Towing on
page 213.)
12.If the temperature stays normal, check the coolant level in the
radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to theMAX mark. Put the cap back on

tightly.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Removing the radiator cap
while the engine is hot can
cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and radiator cool down before
removing the radiator cap.ProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t Table of Contents

Fuses

ABS FUSE BOX
Cars equipped with ABS have a third
fuse box for the ABS. It is in the engine compartment on the right
side.
Checking and Replacing Fuses

If something electrical in your car
stops working, the first thing youshould check for is a blown fuse.
Determine from the chart on pages 211 and 212 , or the diagram on the
fuse box lid, which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those
fuses first, but check all the fuses
before deciding that is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check
the component's operation.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and
all other accessories are off.
2. Remove the cover from the fuse box. 3. Check each of the large fuses in
the under-hood fuse box by
looking through the top at the wire
inside. Removing these fusesrequires a Phillips-head screw-driver.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected BLOWNProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t Table of Contents

Technical Information

The diagrams in this section give
you the dimensions and capacities of
your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. The expla-
nations of several electronic and
mechanical systems on your Honda
are for the more technically-orientedowner. Identification Numbers................. 216
Specifications................................. 218
Anti-lock Brake System................ 220 Tire Information............................ 221
Tire Size Designation................ 221Wheel Size Designation............ 221
Tire Speed Ratings.................... 221 Tire Pressure Adjustment For High Speed Driving........ 222
DOT Tire Quality Grading....... 222
Treadwear.............................. 222
Traction.................................. 223
Temperature.......................... 223 Emission Controls......................... 224
The Clean Air Act...................... 224Crankcase Emission Control System..................................... 224
Evaporative Emission Control
System.....................................224

Exhaust Emission Controls...... 225 PGM-FI System..................... 225
Ignition Timing Control System................................. 225
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System.................... 225
Three Way Catalytic Converter............................ 225
Replacement Parts..................... 225
Three Way Catalytic Converter... 226
Technical InformationProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t

Identification Numbers
The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block. It is on the front.
The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.

Technical Information

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER

ENGINE NUMBERProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t Table of Contents

Anti-lock Brake System

The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is standard equipment on all U.S.
models and the Canadian six-
passenger model. It is optional on the
Canadian seven-passenger model.

The ABS works by measuring how fast the wheels are turning during
braking and comparing their speeds.
If any wheel is rotating much slower
than the others (on the verge of locking up and skidding), the systemreduces hydraulic pressure to that
wheel's brake caliper. When that wheel's speed matches the other

wheels, the system applies normal
hydraulic pressure. This can take
place several times per second at
each wheel. You feel the ABS

working as rapid pulsations in the

brake pedal.
Each wheel has a wheel speed
sensor assembly. As the wheel
rotates, the sensor sends electrical pulses to the ABS control unit. The
pulse frequency varies with the
wheel speed.
The electrical output of the ABS control unit is connected to the
modulator/solenoid unit. During
braking, the ABS control unit monitors the pulse frequencies from
the four wheels. When the control unit detects a wheel locking up, itenergizes the appropriate solenoid in
the modulator/solenoid unit. There are six solenoids: two for each front
wheel, and two for the rear wheels.
The energized solenoid reduces hydraulic pressure to one side of amodulator valve. This, in turn,
reduces hydraulic pressure in the
brake line going to the affected
wheel. When that wheel speeds up because of the reduced braking effort, the control unit de-energizes the solenoid. This builds hydraulic
pressure on the modulator valve.
The pressure increases in the hydraulic line to the wheel.
For the system to react quickly, the
modulator/solenoid unit must have
brake fluid under high pressure.
This is supplied by a piston-type accumulator that is pressurized by
an electric pump. A pressure-sensingswitch on the accumulator controls
this pump.
The control unit also contains error detection circuitry. It monitors the
operation of the wheel sensors,solenoids, pump, and electronics. If
the control unit detects any faults, it shuts off power to the pump motor
and solenoids, disabling the ABS.
The indicator on the instrument panel comes on. The brakes then
work like a conventional system
without anti-lock capabilities.

Technical InformationProCarManuals.comMain Menu s t Table of Contents