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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch
is engaged, the fan spins fdster to provide more air
to cool the engine.
In most every day driving conditions,
the fan
is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andor
high outside temperatures, the
fm speed increases as the
clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken
as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is
merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan
will slow down when additional cooling is not required
and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this
fm noise when you start
the engine.
It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially
if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out
of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a. drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Fake your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain
lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and
ITMY require the same correction you’d use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to
go. It may be
very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes tlat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change
a flat tire safely.
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Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning
flashers.
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip
off the jack and roll over you or other
people.
You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire.
To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in
PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to
FIRST (1) or REVERSE: (K).
3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is
in a drive
gear
-- not in NEUTRAL (N).
4. Turn off the engine.
CAUTION: (Continued)
To be even more certain the vehicle won't move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle, at the opposite end.
The following
steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
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Page 245 of 404

NOTICE:
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to
brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specification.
9. Put the wheel trim back on. For vehicles with plastic
wheel
nut caps, tighten the caps until they are finger
tight, then tighten them an additional one-half turn
with the ratchet and wheel wrench.
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire aqd Tools
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the
passenger compartment
of the vehicle could
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose
equipment could strike someone. Store all these
in the proper place.
Store the flat tire where the spare tire was stored.
For an underbody spare tire carrier, stow
the tire under
the rear of the vehicle
in the spare tire carrier. To stow
the tire:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle
with the valve stem pointed down and
to the rear.
Tilt
the retainer downward and through the wheel
opening. Make sure that the retainer is
fully seated
across the underside
of the wheel.
Attach the ratchet,
with the UP mark facing you,
near the hook at the end of the jack handle. Insert the
other end, on an angle, through the hole
in the rear
bumper and
into the hoist shaft.
Raise
the tire fully against the underslue 01 le
vehicle. Continue turning the ratchet
until mere are
two “clicks”
or “ratchets.” The spare tire hoist
cannot
be over-tightened.
Grasp and push against
the tire to be sure it is stored
securely and
does not move.
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Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from
painted surfxes as soon
as possible. See “Cleaning the
Outside
of Your Vehicle” in the Index.
When you put the cap back
on, turn it to the right until
you hear at least three clicks. Make sure you fully install
the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel
cap has been
left off or improperly installed. This would
allow
fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See
“Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
I NOTICE:
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right
type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get
the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper
venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system
might be damaged.
Checking Things Under the Hood
h
I ! CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
engine fan under the hood can start up and
hjure you even when the engine
is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any
underhood electric fan.
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and
start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline or
diesel fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield
washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber.
You
or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop
or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
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Page 259 of 404
A. Battery
B. Air Cleaner
C. Radiator Cap
D. Coolant Recovery Tmk
E. Air Filter Restriction Indicator
E Engine Oil Dipstick
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick
H. Fan
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
J. Engine Oil Fill
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir
L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
M. FuseIRelay Center
N. Storage Compartment
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“VORTEC” 7400 Engine
I
A. Battery
B. Coolant Recovery Tank
C. Air Cleaner
D. Radiator Cap
E. Air Filter Restriction Indicator
E Engine Oil Dipstick K. Brake Fluid Reservoir
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick L. Storage Compartment
H. Engine Oil Fill M. Windshield Washer
I. Fan Fluid
Reservoir
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir Ne Fuse/RelaY Center
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Checking Transmission Fluid Hot
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), drive the
vehicle
in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature
gage moves and then remains steady for
10 minutes.
Then
follow the hot check procedures.
Checking Transmission Fluid Cold
A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting
for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used
only
as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five
minutes
if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or
more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to
idle the engine longer. Should
the fluid level be low
during a cold check, you nwst perform a hot check
before adding fluid. This will give you
a more accurate
reading
of the fluid level.
Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold
0 Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
-,
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about three
seconds
in each range. Then, position the shift
lever
in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The red transmission dipstick handle
is located at the
rear
of the engine compartment, on the passenger side.
I. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and
wipe
it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull
it back out again.
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Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder
reservoir
is here. It is filled
I with DOT-3 brake fluid.
There are
only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the
reservoir might go down. The first is that
the brake fluid
goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put
in, the fluid level
goes back
up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out
of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake
system fixed, since a leak
means that sooner or later your
brakes
won’t work well, or won’t work at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid.
Adding
brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid
when your linings are worn, then you’ll have
too much
fluid
when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid,
as necessary, only when work is
done on the brake hydraulic system.
A CAUTION0
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill
on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine
is hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
fluid only when work
is done on the brake
hydraulic system.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to
check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections”
in the Index.
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