1996 GMC SIERRA tires

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
0 Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
0 You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle. 1nclude.an ice
scraper, a small brush
or broom, a supply
of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer
clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a
,
couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will
be driving under severe conditions, include
a small bag
of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure
these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However,
if there is snow or ice between your tires
and the road,
you can have a very slippery situation.
You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need
to be very careful.
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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer,the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about
freezing
(32 OF; 0 O C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution. Accelerate
gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See “Anti-Lock”
in the Index.
0 Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps
of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface
of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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Loading Your Vehicle
n ", ,. , I --- SEE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION I U
The Certificatiomire label is found on the rear edge of
the driver's door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document
in the cab.
The label shows the size of your original tires and the
inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight
capacity
of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR
(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating).
The GVWR includes the
weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
The Certificationmire label also tells
you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross
Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your
front and rear axles,
you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help
you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on
both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the
GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
And,
if you do have a heavy load, you should spread
it
out.
I
In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things
carried in the bed
of your truck could shift
forward and come into the passenger area,
injuring you and others.
If you put things in the
bed
of your truck, you should make sure they are
properly secured.
Using heavier suspension components to get added
durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask
your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.
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0 If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow
in OVERDRIVE
(@). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(eg, under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing
a trailer, it’s better
not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just
drive in FOURTH
(4) gear (or, as you need to, a
lower gear).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight
of the trailer,
the weight
of the trailer tongue
and the weight
on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how
you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a
trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle. Use
one
of the following charts to determine how much
your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model
and options.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the
driver and
one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it
has all the required trailering equipment. The weight
of
additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in
the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum
trailer weight.
Above
the 2,000 lbs. (908 kg) trailer rating, the engine
oil cooler is required
on C/K- 1500 models with gas
engines and
C/K-2500 models with gas engines and
3.73 (or lower) axle ratio.
Above
the 4,000 lbs. (1 800 kg) trailer rating,
heavy-duty or gas shock absorbers are required
on
C- 1500 models, and heavy-duty shock absorbers
or
the off-road chassis package are required on
K-1500 models.
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A B
If you’re using a weight-carryipg hitch, the trailer
tongue
(A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight
(B). If you’re using a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 12 percent of
the total loaded trailer weight
(B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately,
to see if the weights are
proper.
If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right
simply
by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for
cold tires.
You’ll find these numbers on the Certification
label at the rear edge
of the driver’s door or see “Tire
Loading” in the Index. Then be sure
you don’t go over
the
GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of
the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules
to follow:
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged
in sharp turns. Make sure you have
ample room when turning
to avoid contact between
the trailer and the bumper.
0 If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than
4,000 Ibs. (1 800 kg), be sure to use
a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and
sway control
of the proper size. This equipment is
very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
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Y
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross
the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer
so that the tongue will not drop to the road
if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch
manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow
the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do
not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig.
And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
If your trarler weighs more than
1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must be
adequate. Be sure
to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into
the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system
only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
0 The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If
everything checks out this far, make the brake tap
at the port
on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to
the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If
you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
rrailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting
out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that
the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and
not nearly as
responsive
as your vehicle is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand
to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets
you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the
load is secure, and that
the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
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12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent
electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch
each other or any other metal.
I
A. Heavy Metal Engine Part
B. Good Battery
C. Dead Battery
Towing Your Vehicle
Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing
service tow your vehicle. See “Roadside Assistance”
in the Index.
If your vehicle has been changed since it was
factory-new, by adding such things as fog lamps,
aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these’
instructions may not be correct.
Before you do anything, turn on the hazard
warning flashers.
When you call, tell the towing service:
That your vehicle .has rear-wheel drive, or that it has
The make, model and year of your vehicle.
Whether you can move the shift lever for the
If there was an accident, what was damaged.
When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator
know that this manual contains detailed towing
instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to
see them.
the four-wheel-drive
option.
transmission
and transfer case, if you have one.
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch
is engaged, the fan spins fdster to provide more air
to cool the engine.
In most every day driving conditions,
the fan
is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andor
high outside temperatures, the
fm speed increases as the
clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken
as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is
merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan
will slow down when additional cooling is not required
and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this
fm noise when you start
the engine.
It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially
if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out
of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a. drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Fake your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain
lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and
ITMY require the same correction you’d use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to
go. It may be
very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes tlat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change
a flat tire safely.
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