1996 FIAT PUNTO Knock

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included In (his Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for tho cylinder head, cylinder block/crankca9e and all other engine internal components. The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine Internal components. After Section 5, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For Information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, 8 or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 5. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A. B or C that are no longer relevant onca the engine has been removed from ihe car.
2 Engine overhaul -general information
1 It Is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of lectors must be considered. 2 High mileage Is not necessarily an Indication that an overhaul Is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing Is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early In its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption Is an Indication that piston rings, vaivo seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn Perform a compression test, as described In Parts A or B (petrol engines) or C (diesel engines) of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted In place of the oil pressure switch. If it Is extremely low. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to Ihe need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring ell Internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are rebored (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; If necessary, the crankshaft may be reground. to restore the journals. 7 The valves are also servrced as well, since they are usually In less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. A/so. it Is a good Idea to renew the ofI pump whenever the engine i$ overhauled.
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through tho entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult If you follow carefully all of the instructions, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially If pans must be taken to an engineering wo'kd for repair or reconditioning.
9 Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand lools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required (or Inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal, Note: Always wait unt'l the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not. fh ere tore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly Inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled wilh care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Engine and transmission removal -methods
and
precautions
1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage Is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface Is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure wilt help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated In excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission, Safety Ib of primary Importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is Ihe first time you have removed
an
engine, an assistant Bhould Ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of Ihe vehicle. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and Installation safely and wilh relative ease On addition to an engine hoist) Is as follows: a heavy duly trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the reference section of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spitted oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it In advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consul! them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work, 9 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
8.5 Dial gauge (1), mounting bracket (2) and setting rod (3) In position on the injection pump (Lucas)
so that Its tip Is In contact with the bracket linkage (see Illustration). Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at the mid-point of its travel and zero the gauge. 6 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation (clockwise) until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC on No 1 piston with ell the sprocket timing marks aligned. 7 Check the reading on the dial gauge which should correspond to the value marked on the pump (there is a tolerance of * 0.04 mm). The timing value may be marked on a plastic disc attached to the front of the pump, or alternatively on a tag attached to Ihe pump control lever (see illustrations). 8 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the front pump mounting nuts/bolt and the raar mounting bolt, then slowly rotate tne pump body until the point is found where the specified reading is obtained on the dial gauge (access to the lower front bolt is gained through the hole in the injection pump sprocket). When the pump Is correctly positioned, tighten both its front mounting nuta/bolt and the rear bolt to their specified torque settings. 9 Withdraw the timing probe slightly, so that it
positioned clear of the pump rotor dowel. Rotato the crankshaft ihrough one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. 10 Slide the timing probe back Into position ensuring that it Is correctly seated against the guide sealing washer surface, not (he upper Hp, then zero the dial gauge. 11 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction ol rotation to the TDC position and recheck the timing measurement 12 If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolt and repeat the operations in paragraphs 6 to 11. 13 When the pump timing is correctly set. remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket and withdraw the timing probe. 14 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the guide and tighten it securely.
8.7a Pump timing value (x) marked on plastic diso (Lucas)
15 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refilling sequence, proceed as described in Section 5. 16 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen tho injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 18 Check and If necessary adjust the Idle speed as described In Chapter 1B.
9 Fuel Injectors -testing, removal and refitting Sk ^

A


Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to Injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to pen ot rate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel Injection specie list.
Testing 1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged uso, and it is reasonable to expect them to need reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles
8.7b Pump timing values marked on label (1) and tag (2) (Lucas)
(100 000 km) or so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration of the Injectors must be left to a specialist. A defective injector which Is causing knocking or smoking can be located without dismantling as follows. 2 Run the engine at a fast idle. Slacken each Injector union In turn, placing rag around the union to catch spilt fuel, and being careful not to exposa the skin to any spray. When tho union on the defective Injector is slackened, the knocking or smoking will stop.
Removal 3 Remove ihe air Inlet ducting from tho front part of the onglne. 4 Carefully clean around the Injectors and injector pipe union nuts. 5 Pull the leak-off pipes from the injectors (see illustration). 6 Unscrow the union nuts securing Ihe injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump. Counterhold the unions on the pump when unscrewing the nuts. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 7 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the pipes from the ln|ectors, If necessary, the Injector pipes may be completely removed-Note carefully the locations of the pipe clamps, for use when refitting. Cover tho onds ot (he injectors, to prevent dirt ingress. 8 Unscrew the injectors using a deep socket or box spanner, and remove Ihem from the cylinder head (see Illustration). 9 Recover the tire seal washers from the cy-linder head and discard them (see illustration).
9.5 Disconnecting the Injector leak-off pipes 9.8 Removing an injector

4D*2 Exhaust and emission control systems
2.2 Charcoal canister location behind tho right-hand headlight
conditions, via a plunger valve, The system is controlled electronically by means of an emissions system control unit. Evaporative emission control • petrol models To minimise the escape of unburned hydrocarbons Into the atmosphere, an evaporallve loss emission control system is fitted to petrol models, The fuel tank filler cap Is sealed and a charcoal canister is mounted underneath the right-hand headlamp to collect the petrol vapours released from the fuel contained In the fuel tank. It stores them until they can be drawn from the canister (under the control of the fuel Injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge valve into the Inlet tract, where they are then burned by the engine during normal combustion. To ensure thai the engine runs correctly when it is cold and/or idling and to protect the catalytic converter from the effects of an over-rich mixture, the purge control valve is not opened by the ECU until the engine has warmed up, and the engine is under load; the valve solenoid is then modulated on and off to allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet tract.
Exhaust systems The exhaust system comprises the exhaust manifold, an exhaust downpipe, • catalytic convorter, an intermediate pipe with silencer, and a tailpipe with silencer, On turbo diesel models the turbocharger is fitted between ihe exhaust manifold and the downpipe.
5.5a On 16-valve engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield...
2 Evaporative loss emission ^ control system - information and component renewal ^
Information 1 The evaporative loss omission control system consists of the control solenoid (or purge valve), the activated charcoal filter canister and a series of connecting vacuum hoses. 2 The control solenoid and charcoal canister are both mounted on the right-hand side of the engine compartment behind the headlight (see illustration).
Component renewal
Control solenoid 3 With the bonnet open, disconnect the hoses from the control solenoid on the top of the charcoal canister. 4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the solenoid. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Charcoal canister 6 Remove Ihe control solenoid as desenbed previously. 7 Disconnect Ihe fuel tonk hose from the canister 8 Detach the mounting and remove the canister. 9 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Multifunction valve 10 The multifunction valve >s mounted on top of the luel tank. Removal and refitting is similar to that described for the tank sender gauge/pump (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B).
3 Crankcase emission system - general information
The crankcase emission control system consists of a hose from the camshaft cover to the air cloanor with a branch to Ihe throttle body. The main hose Incorporates a flame trap and the Inlet to the throttle body incorporates a calibrated hole.
5.5b ... then remove the bracket
The system requires no attention other than to check at regular intervals that tho hoses are free of blockages and undamaged.
4 Lambda oxygen sensor -removal and refitting &
Note: 7?5e Lambda oxygen sensor is doiicata and will not work if it is dropped or knocked, it its power supply is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are used on it.
Removal 1 The sensor Is threaded Into the exhaust front downpipe. Access if best gained Irom underneath the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then )ack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector located on the front of the engine. 3 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the sensor, taking care to avoid damaging the sensor probe as it Is removed- Note: As a flying lead remains connected to the sensor after it has been disconnected, if the correct spanner is not available, a slotted socket
will
be required to remove the sensor.
Refitting A Apply a little anti-selze grease to (he sensor threads • avoid contaminating the probe tip. 5 Refit the sensor to the downpipe. tightening it to the correct torque. Reconnect the wiring. 6 Lower the vohicle to the ground.
5 Exhaust manifold - % removal and refitting jk
Petrol models
Removal 1 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, remove tho air cleaner and inlet system components as described in Chapter 48. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring or alternatively romovo Ihe sensor completely. 4 Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipo from Ihe exhaust manifold flange. Recover the gasket. 5 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield, then remove the bracket at the timing belt end of the manifold (seo Illustrations). 6 Unscrew the mounting nuts, remove the washers, and recover any additional brackets fitted over the studs, noting their locations. Withdraw the manifold from the studs on the cylinder head. 7 Recover the gaskets from Ihe studs.

12*4 Body electrical systems
4.5 Squeeze the retaining spring-clip lugs, and release the clip from the rear erf the bulb
5 Squeeze the retaining spring-clip lugs, and release Ihe clip Irom the rear of the bulb {see illustration) 6 Withdraw the bulb (see illustration). Models with twin reflectors 7 Unclip Ihe cover from the rear of the headlight unit. Note that the light unit houses three bulbholders; one tor the combined main/dipped beam bulb, one for the long range main beam bulb and one for the sidelight bulb. 8 Pull Ihe wiring plug from the rear ol Ihe bulb. 9 Squeeze the retaining spring-clip lugs, and release tho clip from the rear of the bulb 10 Withdraw Ihe bulb. All models 11 When handling the new bulb, use a tissue
4.21 Unhook the light unit spring clip from the recess in the inner wing
4 6 Withdraw Ihe bulb
or clean cloth, to avoid touching Ihe glass wilh Ihe lingers; moisture and grease from the skin can cause blackening and rapid failure of this type of bulb. If the glass is accidentally touched, wipe it clean using methylated spirit. Avoid knocking or shaking the bulb as this may weaken the filament. 12 Install the new bulb, using a reversal of the removal procedure, ensuring that its locating tabs are correctly located in tho light unit cut-outs. Secure the bulb in position with Ihe retaining clip.
Sidelight
Models with single reflector 13 Open the bonnet. Ensure Ihat the sidelights are turned off at ihe stalk switch. 14 Twist the bulbholder lo release it from the rear of tho light unit (see illustration) 15 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder. 16 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure. Models with twin reflectors 17 Unclip the cover from Ihe rear of Ihe headlight unit. Note that Ihe light unit houses three bulbholders; one for the combined main/ dipped beam bulb, one for the long range main beam bulb and one (or the sidelight bulb. 18 Twist the bulbholder to release il from the rear of the light unit. 19 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder. 20 Fit Ihe new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure.
4.14 Twist the bulbholder to release it from tho rear of tho light unit
Front direction indicator 21 Open the bonnet. Unhook tho light unit spring clip from the recess in the innsr wing, directly behind ihe indicator lighl unit (see illustration). 22 Pull the light unit forwards liom its housing. 23 Twist ihe bulbholder anti-clockwise and withdraw It from the light unit (see illustration). 24 The bulb is a bayonet fit in the bulbbdoer. 25 Fit the new bulb, then refil tho fight assembly using a reversal of Ihe remove! procedure. Ensure that the pegs on the side ol the lighl unit engage with the lugs in the side of the headlight unit and the body panel (see illustration). Hook the retaining spring clip securely Into the recess in the Inner
wing.

Front direction indicator
side
repeater 26 Slide the light unit towards the from
ol
the vehicle slightly, then insert a plastic Implement behind the rear edge of the unit and lever it oul ot the wing aperture (see illustration). 27 Withdraw the light unit. Ihen twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise to release
H
from the light unit (see illustration). 28 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder. 29 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of trie removal procedure.
4.26 Slide the light unit towards the front
of
the vehicle slightly, then Insert a plastic implement behind the rear edge
4.23 Twist the bulbholder anticlockwise and withdraw It from the light unit
4.25 Ensure that the pegs (arrowed) on tho sido of tho tight unit engage with the lugs In the side of the headlight unit and the body panel