1996 FIAT PUNTO Crankshaft

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.4 Using a dial gauge to check the crankshaft endfloat 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 7. However, If no work fs to be done on the pistons and connecting rods there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft Journals. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the cylinder block and recover the gasket where fitted. 4 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat using a dial gauge. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero Ihe gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check tho endfloat (see Illustration). The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required. 6 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap - on petrol engines measure between the centre main bearing thrust washer and the crankshaft web. and on diesel engines measure between the rear main bearing and tha crankshaft web. 6 Note the markings on the main bearing caps which vary according to type. On 8-valve petrol engines there is one line on Ihe cap nearest the timing belt end, two on the second cap, C on the centre cap, then three and four lines on the remaining caps (soo illustration). On 16-valve petrol engines, the caps are marked one to five with a series of lines (one line for the cap nearest the timing
8.6 Main bearing markings (petrol engine)
belt end, two for tho next cap and so on). On diesel engines the caps are marked one to live In the same way but with notches instead ol lines. Note also that on some diesel engines the cap nearest the timing belt end Is not marked and the notches therefore start with No 2 cap. 7 Loosen and remove the main bearing cop retaining bolts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. On some diesel engines note that the centre main bearing cap botts are longer than the other bolls. 8 Lift the crankshaft Irom the crankcase and remove the upper bearing shells from the crankcase. If the shells are 1o be used again, keep them identified for position. Also remove the thrustwashers from their position either side of the centre main bearing (petrol engines) or rear main bearing (diesel engines) (see illustrations)
Inspection 9 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solvent and allow It to dry. Flush the oil holes thoroughly, to ensure that ihey are not blocked - use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush il necessary. Remove any sharp edges from the edge of the holes which may damage the new bearings when they are installed. 10 Inspect the main searing and crankpin journals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking, scoring or pitting are evident then the crankshaft should be reground by an engineering workshop, and refitted to the engine with underslze bearings.
11 Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of each main bearing journal. Taking a number of measurements on the surface of each journal will reveal if it Is worn unevenly. Differences in diameter measured at 90" intervals Indicate that the journal is out of round. Differences In diameter measured aiong the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again. If wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the |ournal; seek the advice of an engmeenng workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runoul by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft In V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate Ihe runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure Is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm
a»
a rough guido. If the runoul exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered • consult your Flat dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advico. 14 Refer to Section 10 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection.
9 Cylinder block/crankcase - % cleaning and inspection Sk
Cleaning 1 Remove all external components, brackets and electrical switches/sensors from the block Including the rear engine plate, injection pump/oil filter bracket and gasket, Intermediate shaft bracket, oH vapour breather casing, and coolant pump. Also unboit and remove the ol return tube from the crankcase (see illustrations). For complete cleaning, the core plugs should Ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by
8.8a Removing the thrustwashers.. ... and upper bearing shells (diesel engine) 8.8o Thrustwashers located on the centre main bearing (petrol engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
9.1a Removing the oil return tube from the crankcase
pulling on the screw with a pair of grips, or by using a slide hammer. 2 Where applicable, undo Ihe retaining bolts and remove the piston oil Jet spray tubes from inside Ihe cylinder block. 3 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder block/crankcase, taking care not to damage ihe gasket/sealing surfaces. 4 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted). The plugs are usually very tight - they may have to be drilled out, and the holes re-tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is reassembled. 5 If the block is very dirty have it steam-cleaned, otherwise use paraffin to clean it. 6 Clean all oil holes and oil galleries again and dry thoroughly, then apply a light film of oil to all mating surfaces, to prevent rusting. Smear the cylinder bores with a light coating of oil. 7 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly. To clean the threads, run the correct-size tap Into each of the holes to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to restore damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. 8 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them into the holes In the block. Tighten them securely, 9 Where applicable, refit the piston oil jet spray tubes to the cylinder block, and securely tighten the retaining bolts. Bend over the tabs to lock the bolts (see illustration). 10 Fit the new core plugs with sealant applied to their perimeters before using a suitable metal tube to drive them into position. 11 Refit the oil return tube to the crankcase and tighten the mounting bolts. 12 Refit the Injection pump/oil filter bracket together with a new gasket and lighten the bolts. 13 Refit the rear engine plate and tighten the bolts. Also refit 8ny other removed brackets etc.
Inspection 14 Visually check the cylinder block (or cracks and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. If there has been any history of internal water leakage, it may bo worthwhile having on engine overhaul
9.1b Removing tho injection pump/oil filter bracket 9.1c Removing the injection pump/oil filter bracket gasket from the cyilndor block
9.1 d Removing the intermediate shaft bracket specialist check it with special equipment. 15 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and scoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. Indicating that the bore Is excessively worn. 16 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, measure the bore diameters at the top Oust under the wear ridge), centre, and bottom, parallel to the crankshaft axis. 17 Next, measure the bore diameters at the same three locations, at right-angles to the crankshaft axis. If there is any doubt about the condition of the cylinder bores seek the advice of a Fiat dealer or suitable engine reconditioning specialist. 18 If the engine is not going to be reassembled right away, cover It with a large plastic bag to keep it clean and prevent rusting. If the engine is ready for reassembly, refit all the components and brackets removed.
9.1e Removing the oil vapour breather casing
10 Main and big-end bearings - ^ inspection and selection 5
Inspection 1 Even though the main and big-end bearings should be renewed during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine (see illustration overleaf). The bearing shells are available in different thicknesses to match the diameter of the Journal. 2 Bearing failure can occur due to lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine, or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
failure, (he cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, Ihe main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers while checking it. 4 Din and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or It may pass through fillers or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left In engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded In the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure Is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which can be the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing materiel is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of Ihe bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring ihe engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the beanngs to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from Ihe steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil Is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly: there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on ft. 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; to do otherwise is false economy.
Selection 11 Main and big-end bearings are available in standard sizes and a range of undersizes to suit reground crankshafts • refer to the Specifications for details. The engine reconditioner will select the correct bearing shells for a machined crankshaft. 12 The running clearances can be checked when the crankshaft is refitted with its new bearings.
11 Engine overhaul -reassembly sequence
1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiariss yourself with the work Involved, and to ensure that ail items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A tube of sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order: a) Crankshaft (Section 12). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (Section 7). c) Oil pump (see Part A, B or C - as applicable). d) Sump (see Pan A, BorC-as applicable). e) Flywheel/driveplate (see Part A, B or C • as applicable). 1) Cylinder head (see Part A B or C - as applicable). g) Coolant pump (see Chapter
3)
h) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and timing belt (See Part A, B or C- as applicable). I) Engine external components, 3 At this stage, ail engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out on a completely clean work surface.
12 Crankshaft- % refitting and main bearing S running clearance check ^
Crankshaft - initial refitting 1 Crankshaft refitting Is the first stage ol engine reassembly following overhaul. At this point, it is assumed that the crankshaft, cylinder block/crankcase and beanngs have been cleaned, inspected and reconditioned or renewed. 2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, level work surface, with the crankcase facing upwards. Where necessary, unbolt the bearing caps and lay them out in order to ensure correct reassembly. If they are still in place, remove the bearing shells from the caps and the crankcase and wipe out the inner surfaces wilh a clean rag - they musl be kept spotlessly clean. 3 Clean the rear surface of the new bearing shells with a rag and fit ihem on Ihe bearing saddles. Ensure that the orientation lugs on the shells engage with the recesses in the saddles and lhat the oil holes are correctly aligned. Do not hammer or otherwise force the bearing shells into place. It Is critically important that the surfaces of the bearings ore kept free from damage and contamination. 4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and the crankshaft journals a final clean with a rag. Check that the oil holes In the crankshaft are free from dirt, as any left here will become embedded In the new bearings when Ihe engine is first started. 5 Carefully lay the crankshaft In the crankcase, taking care not to dislodge the bearing shells (see illustration}.
Main bearing running clearance check 8 When Ihe crankshaft and bearings are refitted, a clearance must exist between them

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.5 Lowering the crankshaft into the crankcase
12.9 Fit tho main bearing caps...
to allow lubricant to circulate. This clearance is impossible to check using feeler blades, however Plastlgauge can be used. This consists of a thin strip of soft plastic that is crushed between the bearing shells and journals when the beanng caps are tightened up. Its width then indicates the size of the clearance gap. 7 Cut off five pieces of Plastlgauge. just shorter than the length of the crankshaft journal. Lay a piece on each journal, in line with its axis (see Illustration). 8 Wipe off the rear surfaces of the new lower half main bearing shells and fit them to the main beanng caps, again ensuring that the locating lugs engage correctly (see illustration). 9 Fit the caps in their correct locations on the bearing saddles, using the manufacturers markings as a guide (see illustration). Ensure lhat Ihey are correctly orientated • the caps should be fitted such that the recesses (or the bearing shell locating lugs are on the same side as those in the bearing saddle. 10 Insert and tighten the bolls until they are
811
correctly torqued (see illustrations). Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate at all whilst ihe Plastlgauge is in place. Progressively unbolt the bearing caps and remove them, taking care not to dislodge the Plastlgauge. 11 The width of the crushed Plastigauge can now be measured, using the scale provided (see illustration). Use the correct scale, as both Imperial and metric are printed. This measurement Indicates the running clearance • compare it with that listed in the Specifications.
21 \ „ 12.7 Lay the Plastigauge on the main bearing journals
t
12.10a ... Insert the bolts...
If tho clearance is outside ihe tolerance, it may be due to dirt or debns trapped under the bearing surface; try cleaning them again and repeat the clearance check. If the results are still unacceptable, re-check Ihe journal diameters and the bearing sizes. Note that if the Plastigauge is thicker at one end. the loumals may be tapered and as such, will require regrinding. 12 When you are satisfied that the clearances are correct, carefully remove the remains of the Plastigauge from the journals and bearings faces. Use a soft, plastic or wooden scraper as anything metallic is likely to damage the surfaces.
Crankshaft • final refitting 13 Lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase. Wipe off the surfaces of the bearings in the crankcase and the bearing caps. Fit the thrust beanngs using grease to hold them in
12.11 Use the special scale card to determine the main bearing running clearance
shell In its cap
12.10b ... and torque-tighten them
position, Ensure they are seated correctly in the machined recesses, with tho oil grooves facing outwards 14 Liberally coat the bearing shells in the crankcase with dean engine oil (see Illustration). 15 Lower the crankshaft into position in the crankcase. 16 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the main bearing caps with clean engine oil. Make sure that the locating lugs on the shells are still engaged with the corresponding recesses in the caps. 17 Fit the main bearing caps in the correct order and orientation. Insert the bearing cap bolts and hand tighten them only. 18 Working from the centre bearing cap outwards, tighten the retaining bolts to their specified torque. On petrol engines, tighten all the bolts to the first stage, then angle-tighten them to the Stage 2 anglo (see illustration)
12.14 Lubricate the main bearing shells before final assembly

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.18 Angle-tightening the main bearing cap bolts (petrol engine)
12.Ida Application area for silicone Instant gasket on crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine) 12.19b Refitting the crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine)
19 Fit a new oil seal to the crankshaft rear oil seal housing. Apply grease to the seal lips. On 1108 cc petrol engines a conventional gasket Is not used at the oil seal retainer joint face, but a 3 mm diameter bead of RTV (Instant) silicone gasket must be applied as shown -allow at least one hour 1or the gasket to cure before oil contacts it. On all other engines a gasket Is fitted Securely tighten the housing bolts (see Illustrations). 20 Check that Ihe crankshaft rotates freely by turning It by hand. If resistance Is fell, re-check the running clearances, as described above. 21 Carry out a check of the crankshaft endfloat as described at the beginning of Section 8. If the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft have been checked and new thrust washers hove been fitted, then the endfioat should be within specification.
22 Refit the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. 23 Refit the flywheeVdriveplate, and-vibration plate (16-valvo engines), oil pump and pick-up tube, and sump with reference to the relevant Sections of Parts A, B or C of this Chapter.
13 Engine -initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly
1 With the engine refitted In the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left In the engine compartment.
Petrol engine models 2 Remove the spark plugs, then disable the
ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition colls. 3 Turn the engine on the starter until Ihe oi pressure warning light goes out. Refit ihe spark plugs, and reconnect the LT wiring.
Diesel engine models 4 Disconnect tho wiring from the stop solenoid on the Injection pump, then turn the engine on the starter motor until the oil pressure warning light goes out. Reconnect ihe wire to the stop solenoid. 6 Fully depress the accelerator pedal, turn tho ignition key to its first position and wait tor HHJ preheating warning light to go out.
All models 6 Start the engine, noting that this may take i little longer than usual, due to the fuel system components having been disturbed.
12.19c On diesel engines use a screwdriver to prise out the rear oil seal 12.19d Locate the new oil soalln the housing (diosel engine)... 12.19e ... and use a block of wood to drive it in
12.19f On Diesel engines fit the gasket to the cylinder block ... 12.19g ... then locate the rear oli seal housing... 12.19h ... and Insert the bolts

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7 While the engine is idling, check for fuel, water and oil leaks. Don't be alarmed if there are some odd smells and smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits, ft Assuming alt is well, keep the engine idling until hot water is felt circulating through the bp hose, then switch off the engine.
9 Recheck the oil and coolant levels as described in Chapter 1A or 16, and top-up as necessary. 10 There is no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts once the engine has first run after reassembly. 11 If new pistons, rings or crankshaft
bearings have been fitted, the engine must be treated as new. and run-in for the first 500 miles (800 km). Do net operate the engine al full-throttle, or allow it to labour at low engine speeds in any gear. It is recommended that the oil and filter be changed at the end of this period.
2D

4A«1
Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel system - single-point petrol injection models
Contents
Accelerator cable • removal, refitting and adjustment 4 Air cleaner and inlet system - removal and refitting 2 Air cleaner filter element renewal See Chapter 1A Engine management system components - removal 8nd refitting .. 5 fuel filter renewal See Chapter 1A Fuel injection system - depressurlsatlon 8 Fuel injection system • testing and adjusting 10
Degrees of difficulty
Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting 8 Fuel tank - removal and refitting 7 General information and precautions 1 Idle speed and mixture adjustment See Chapter 1A Inlet air temperature regulator • removal and refitting 3 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting 9 Unleaded petrol - general Information and usage 11
Easy, suitable for Fairty easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Jx suitable for competent ^ OY mechanic ^
DifficUt, suitable tor % Very difficult, ^ novice with Me for begrmer with &
Fairly difficult, Jx suitable for competent ^ OY mechanic ^ experienced DIY > * suitable for expert D(Y JS or professional ^ experience some experience &
Fairly difficult, Jx suitable for competent ^ OY mechanic ^ mechanic > * suitable for expert D(Y JS or professional ^
Specifications
System type Weber-Marelll integrated single-point fuel injection/ignition system
Fuel system data Fuel pump type Electric, Immersed in fuel tank Fuel pump delivery rate 110 litres/hour minimum Regulated fuel pressure 1.0 ± 0.2 bar Crankshaft TDC sensor resistance at 20°C €50 to 720 ohms Injector duration (at idle)
1
£ ms
Recommended fuel Minimum octane rating 95 RON unleaded
Torque wrench settings Nm ibfft Coolant temperature sensor 3 2 Fuel filter collar nut S 4 Fuel tank 28 21 Idle control stepper motor 4 3 Inlet manifold 27 20 Inlet union to filter 31 23 Outlet union to filter 15 11 Throttle body to manifold 7 5 Throttle potentiometer 3 2

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
motor c) Ensure that all hoses are correctly reconnected and, where necessary, that their retaining clips are securely tightened. d) Adjust the accelerator cable as described In Section 4.
Fuel injector Note: If a faulty Injector Is suspected, before condemning the Injector, it is worth vying the effect of one of the proprietary Injector cleaning treatments. Removal 8 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described In Section 2. 9 Disconnect the wiring then unscrew the mounting screws and remove Ihe Injector from the throttle body. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Fuel pressure regulator
Removal 11 Remove Ihe air cleaner and air duel as described In Section 2. 12 Using a marker pen. make alignment marks between the regulator cover end the throttle body, then undo the four retaining
screws. As the screws are loosened, place a rag over the cover to catch any fuel spray which may be released. 13 Lift off the cover, then remove the spring and withdraw the diaphragm, noting Its correct fitted orientation. Remove all traces of dirt, and examine the diaphragm for signs of splitting. If damage Is found, it will be necessary to renew the complete upper throttle body assembly. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal ensuring that the diaphragm and cover are fitted the correct way round, and that the retaining screws are securely tightened,
Idle control stepper motor
Removal 15 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), then remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 16 Using a crosshead screwdriver, unscrew the mounting screws and remove the stepper motor from the throttle body. Recover the gaskei (see illustration). 17 Clean the unit and check for damage and wear. Refitting 18 When refitting the unit use a new gasket and make sure that the plunger is inserted correctly using the following procedure. Insert the unit and refit the mounting screws loosely. Reconnect the wiring then switch on the ignition several times so that the unit centralises itself. Finally fully tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. Note: The mounting screws are covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed 19 Leave the battery negative terminal disconnected for about 20 minutes - the injection/ignition ECU will position the Idle control stepper motor correctly the first time the engine is started. Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
Throttle potentiometer
Removal 20 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 21 Disconnect the wiring from the throttle potentiometer. 22 Using an Allen key unscrew the mounting screws then withdraw the unit from the throttle body (see Illustration). Note: The mounting screws ere covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed. Refitting 23 When refitting the unit make sure that the pin Is correctly engaged, and tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. 24 If a Rat test Instrument is available, the
operation of the throttle potentiometer can be checked at this stage. Before connecting the wiring first turn Ihe ignition key to position MAR and wait a few seconds, then return the key to the STOP position, Reconnect the wiring and connect the test instrument. Turn the Ignition key to the MAR position and cancel the error that will appear. The throttle position Indicated should be between 0° and 4°. If greater than this, check thai the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted however If the correct reading cannot be obtained renew the unit.
Inlet air temperature sensor
Removal 25 Remove the throtlle body assembly as described earlier In this Section. 28 Extract the plastic pins and remove the press-fit cover from the top of the throttle body. 27 Invert the cover then unscrew the mounting screws and remove the Inlet air temperature sensor from the cover. Refitting 28 Refining Is a reversal of removal.
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
Removal 29 The manifold absolute pressure sensor is located on the left-hand side of the bulkhead. 30 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the sensor from the bulkhead, Disconnect the wiring and vacuum pipe. Refitting 31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check the condition of the vacuum pipe and renew it if necessary.
Coolant temperature sensor
Removal 32 The coolant temperature sensor Is located on the left-hand side of the inlet manifold. Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A before removing it. 33 Disconnect the wiring. 34 Unscrew the sensor and remove It from the Inlet manifold. If using a socket take care not to damage Ihe wiring connector on the sensor. Refitting 35 Refitting Is a reversal of removal bui tighten Ihe sensor to the specified torque. Do not exceed the specified torque otherwise the unit may be damaged.
Crankshaft TDC sensor
Removal 36 The crankshaft TDC sensor Is located on the front side of the crankshaft pulley. Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car Bnd support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). Remove 5.22 Throttle potentiometer mounting screws