1996 FIAT PUNTO auxiliary battery

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
^ - / //
4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions

A


Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.

A


Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.

A


Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
4 If the motor operates when tested as described, (he fault must lie In the engine wring harness or the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor/switch can be tested as described in Section 6. Any further fault Diagnosis should be referred to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer - do not attempt to test
Ihe
electronic control unit.
Removal 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/scon oecf/ng the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray to improve access. On 1242 cc {16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and
inset
ducts as described in Chapter 4B. 1 Disconnect the motor wiring connectorfs). 8 Unbolt the shroud from the rear of the ratiator. then lift out the cooling fan assembly. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal
6 Cooling fan switch -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 The switch is threaded into the lower left
nand
comer of the radiator. 2 The switch can be tested by removing it,
and
checking that the switching action occurs
at
the correct temperature {heat the sensor in a container of water, and monitor the temperature with a thermometer). 3 There should be no continuity between the switch terminals, until Ihe specified cooling fan cut-In temperature Is reached, when continuity (and zero resistance) should exist between the terminals.
Removal 4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 5 Allow the engine to cool completely, then drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1Aor 1B. 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
bolts...
7 Carefully unscrew the sensor and. whore applicable, recover the sealing ring. Refitting 8 If the sensor was originally fitted using sealing compound, clean the sensor threads thoroughly, and coat them with fresh sealing compound. 9 If the sensor was originally fitted using a sealing ring, use a new sealing ring on refitting. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. 11 On completion, start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature. Continue to run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in and out correctly.
7 Coolant pump • & removal, inspection 5 and refitting
Removal
Petrol engine models 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system and remove the auxiliary drivebett(s) as described In Chapter 1 A. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 4 Unscrew the securing bolts/nuts, and withdraw the coolant pump (see illustrations).
7.9b ... and lift off the pulley (diesel engine)
(petrol engine) If the pump Is stuck, tap it gently using a soft-faced mallet - do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Diesel engine models 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/s connecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1B. 7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as descnbed In Chapter 1B. 6 On models fitted with power steenng, refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump from its mountings; this can be achieved without disconnecting the power steering fluid hoses from the pump. Tie the pump away from the work area, taking care to avoid kinking the fluid hoses. 9 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the coolant pump pulley. It will be necessary to counterhold the pulley In order to unscrew the bolts, and this is most easily achieved by wrapping an old drivebelt tightly around the pulley to act in a similar manner to a strap 3 wrench. Alternatively, a stout screwdriver can be braced between two of the pulley bolts while the third is slackened (see illustrations). 10 Disconnect ihe bypass hoses from the coolant pump outlet stubs. 11 Unscrew the securing bolts, and withdraw the coolant pump assembly. Note that the pump must be detached from the transfer pipe than runs behind the cylinder block to the thermostat housing (see illustration). The pipe is a push fit in the port on the rear of the coolant pump
7.11 Removing the coolant pump assembly (diesel engine)

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly

A


Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
tf In any doubt as to the procedure fo follow on models with air conditioning, consult a Fiat dealer for advice. Note: This is an involved procedure, and It (s recommended fhat the following Section fs read thoroughly before commencing work. Plenty of time should be allowed to compter the operation. During dismantling, make notes on the routing of all wiring and cables, and the locations of all fixings, to aid reassembly. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Set the heater control to HOT. then drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18. 3 Working in the engine bay, slacken the clips and dotach the healer unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead (see illustration) Recover the rubber grommets. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the entire facia assembly from the vehicle bulkhead. Rest the assembly on the front seats. 5 At this stage, access to the air l nlet/dlstrl but Ion/blending control cables is possible. These can be easily disconnected from their respective control levers and renewed If required. 6 Working from the engine bay. remove the protective plastic caps to expose the heater assembty mounting studs and remove the nuts 7 Label the electrical connections to 1hi» heater assembly, to aid correct refitting later and then unplug them at the connectors 8 Slacken and remove the nuts and lift the healer assembly off its mounting studs. Refitting 9 To refit the assembly, reverse the steps described for removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Make sure that all wiring and cables are muted as noted during dismantling. b) Make sure that dl air ducts are securely reconnected. c) Refit the facia components with reference to Chapter 11. dl On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18.
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead

5A»1
Chapters Part A:
Starting and charging systems
Contents
Alternator - brush holder/regulator module renewal 6 Alternator/charging system • testing in vehicle 4 Alternator • removal and refitting 5 Auxiliary drivebelt • removal, refitting and adjustment See Chapter 1A or 1B Battery • condition check See Weekly Checks Battery • removal and refitting 3
Battery - testing and charging 2 Electrical fault finding • general Information See Chapter 12 General Information and precautions 1 Starter motor • removal and refitting 8 Starter motor - testing and overhaul 9 Starting system - testing 7
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for & novice with Tittle jg experience ^
Fairly easy, suitable ^ for beginner with some experience 3J
Fairly tfifftait, J^ sutable for competent ^ DIYmechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced D!Y mechanic ^
Verydtfficult, jk stitable far expert DfY X or professional ^
Specifications
General System type 12 volt, negative earth
Starter motor Type: Petrol engines Magneti-Marelli pre-engaged Diesel engines Bosch pre-engaged with reduction gear Output: 5A Petrol engines 0.8 kW (1108 cc) or 0.9 kW (1242 cc) Diesel engines 1.7 kW
Battery Capacity: Petrol engines 32 to 50 amp/hr Diesel engines 60 amp/hr Charge condition: Poor 12.5 volts Normal 12.6 volts Good 12.7 volts
Alternator Type Magneti-Marelli Output 65 to 85 amp
Torque wrench settings Nm ibt ft Alternator 60 44 Battery tray 29 21 Oil pressure switch: Petrol engine 32 24 Diesel engine 37 27

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor

Body electrical systems 12*3
3.4 The auxiliary fusebox, located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel auxiliary fusebox, which is located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel (see Illustration). 5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire (see illustration). 6 To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. 7 Using the plastic tool clipped to the main fusebox lid, pull the fuse from its location. 8 Spare fuses are provided in the main fusebox. 9 Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating (fuse ratings are specified on the inside of the fusebox cover flap). Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil; more serious damage, or even fire, could result. 10 Note that the fuses are colour-coded as follows. Refer to the wiring diagrams for details of the fuse ratings used and the circuits protected. Colour Rating Orange 5A Red 10A Blue 15A Yellow 20A Clear or White 25A Green 30A 11 The radio/cassette player fuse is located In the rear of the unit, and can be accessed after removing the radio/cassette player -refer to Section 12for greater detail.
Relays 12 A relay is an electncally-operated switch, which Is used for the following reasons: 4 A relay can switch a heavy current remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, therefore allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)
A relay can receive more than one control input, unlike a mechanical switch. c) A relay can have a timer function - for example, the intermittent wiper relay. 13 The main and optional equipment relays are located in the main and auxiliary toseboxes (see Fuses). A number of additional relays may be fitted, depending on model and specification. These are generally mounted
3.5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire adjacent lo the component being controlled; e.g. the radiator cooling fan relay(s) are mounted on a bracket next the cooling fan itself. 14 The direction Indicator/hazard warning flasher unit is mounted on the underside of the steering column slalk switch unit. It can be accessed by removing the steering column lower shroud panel (see illustration). 15 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay develops a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it click as it is energised, if this is Ihe case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main supply or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while some relays are identical in appearance and in operation, others look similar but perform different functions. 16 To remove a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out from the socket, and pushed back into position.
4 Buibs (exterior lights) -renewal
General 1 Whenever a bulb is renewed, note the following points:
3.14 Removing the direction indlcator/ha2ard warning flasher unit
a) Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a bulb. If in doubt, disconnect the battery negative lead before starting work. b) Remember that, if the circuit has just been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot. c) A/ways check the bulb contacts and holder, ensuring that there is clean metal-to-metal contact between the bulb and its live contacts) and earth. Clean off
any
corrosion or dirt before fitting a nevt bulb. d) Wherever bayonet-type bulbs are fitted, ensure that the live contacts) bear firmly against the bulb contact. e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the correct rating (see Specifications), and that it is completely clean before fitting it; this applies particularly to headlight/foglight bulbs (see following
0 Pay attention to the orientation when fitting multi-filament bulbs (e.g. combined tail/brake light bulbs) • incorrect fitting will cause the filaments to illuminate In the wrong sequence.
Headlight 2 Open the bonnet. Ensure that the headlights are turned off at the stalk switch. Models with single reflector 3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb (see illustration). 4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit (see Illustration).
4.3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb 4.4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit