1996 FIAT PUNTO Stage

2B*10 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
9.10 Extract the exhaust camshaft oil seal...
Inspection 12 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and scoring. Renew ihe camshaft If any of these conditions are apparent. Examine the condition of the bearing surfaces, both on the camshaft journals and in the cylinder head extension. If the head extension beanng surfaces are worn excessively, the extension will need to be renewed. If suitable measuring equipment Is available, camshaft bearing journal wear can be checked by direct measurement. 13 Examine the cam follower bearing surfaces which contact the camshaft lobes for wear ridges and scoring. Renew any follower on which these conditions are apparent. If a follower bearing surface is badty scored, also examine the corresponding lobe on the camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will be worn. Renew worn components as necessary.
9.11 ... then remove the exhaust camshaft from the cylinder head extension
Refitting 14 Liberally lubricate the camshaft journals and cylinder head extension bearings, then locate both camshafts in position Note that the exhaust camshaft is nearest to the front facing side of the engine. 15 With the camshafts In position, rotate them as necessary until the camshaft locking tools can be re-inserted (see illustration). 16 Lubricate the Hps of a new exhaust camshaft oil seal with clean engine oil, and drive It into position until it seats on its locating shoulder (see Illustration). Use a suitable tubular drifl, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seaJ. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. Noto that the seal lips should face inwards. 17 Refit the Inlet camshaft drive gear and retaining boll then tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustration).
9.16 Fit a new exhaust camshaft oil seal M7 Tighten the Inlet camshaft drive gear retaining bolt to the specified torque
9.15 Refit the camshaft locking tools
18 Refit the exhaust camshaft drive gear to the exhaust camshaft. As the gear is being fitted, It will be necessary to align the anti» backlash inner gear teeth using a screwdriver to enable the teeih of both Ihe gears to mes-i (see Illustration). 19 At this stage it is advisable lo check tie camshaft endfloat using a dial gauge mounted on the cylinder head extension, with its probe in contact with Ihe camshaft being checked Move the camshaft one way. zero the gauge, then move the camshaft as far as it will go ihe other way. Record the reading on the dial gauge and compare the figure with that given in the Specifications. Repeat on the other camshaft. If either of the readings exceeds the tolerance given, a new cylinder head extension will be required. 20 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head extension end cover, then wrap round the protruding tangs on Ihe gasket to retain it in position (see Illustrations). 21 Locate the end cover on the cylinder heed extension and secure with the retaining nuts securely tightened. 22 Locate a new O-ring on the inlet camshaft cover plate, then apply RTV gasket sealant lo the cover plate contact face (see Illustrations), Fit tho cover plate and secure with the nut and bolt. 23 Refit the camshaft sprocket and secure with the retaining bolt tightened finger tight only at this stage. 24 Liberally lubricate the cam followers and piece them in position in their respective cylinder head extension bores (see illustration),
9.18 Refit the exhaust camshaft drive gear white aligning the anti-backlash Inner gear teeth 9.20a Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head extension end cover... 9.20b ... then wrap round the protruding tangs to retain the gaskel

DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B*11
camshaft cover plate... 25 Locate the cam follower retaining tools in position and refit the cylinder head extension
as
described In Section 8.

10
Cylinder head - &
removal and
refitting S
Removal Note; The cylinder head bolts are of special
sekned
design and a Fiat tool should be
obtained
to unscrew them. A Ton key will not
JSt however
in practise It was found that a dose-httlng Alien key could be used as an itemative. 1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Remove the cylinder head extension as oescAbed
m
Section 8. 3 Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing on the left-hand end of
Ihe
cylinder head. 4 Disconnect the heater hose from the outlet
at the
rear of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor md temperature gauge sensor wiring plugs
torn
the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 9 Undo the engine oil dipstick tube bracket retaining bolt and the two bolts securing the wing harness support clips to the inlet marriold lower section. 7 Undo Ihe retaining nuts and separate the ixhaust system front pipe from the exhaust manifold flange.
8
Check that nothing remains attached to the cinder head likely to impede removal. It Is assumed that the head will be removed complete with exhaust manifold and inlet manifold lower section. 9 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts half a turn K
e
time in the reverse order to that shown in (lustration 10.20a. When the bolts are free. «mwe them from their locations.. Id Lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is stuck tight rock the head to break the joint by mans of the manifolds. On no account drive
levers
into the gasket Joint, nor attempt to tap tf« head sideways, as it is located on positioning dowels. 11 Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket.
JK'
l^. 9.22b ... then apply RTV gasket sealant to the cover plate contact face 12 Refer to Chapter 20 for cylinder head dismantling and inspection procedures. Preparation for refitting 13 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly dean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns, Take particular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages -this Is particularly important for the lubncahon system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine's components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little grease In the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap. then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way. 14 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but If excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface Is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 15 Check the condition of the cylinder head bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever they are removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable
sequence
9.24 Lubricate the cam followers and place them in position in their respective bores solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting the assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that the bolt holes in the cylinder block have been mopped out to clear any oil, 17 The now gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit Ihe gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly clean. 18 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above. 19 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that it locates on the positioning dowel. 20 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean and lightly lubricated. Screw the bolts in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, lighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torquo setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge Is used during this stage ot tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 21 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe to the manifold using a new flange gasket.
10.20b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stago 1 torque setting ...

2B*12 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
... then through the Stage 2 end Stage 3 angle
22 Refit the engine oil dipstick tube bracket retaining bolt and the two bolts securing the wiring harness support clips to the inlet manifold lower section. 23 Connect the coolant temperature sensor and temperature gauge sensor wiring plugs. 24 Connect the radiator hose lo the thermostat housing and the heater hose to the cylinder head outlet. 25 Refit the cylinder head extension as described in Section 8. 26 On completion, refill tha cooling system as described In Chapter 1A.
11 Flywheel -removal, Inspection arid refitting
12 Engine mountings -inspection and renewal
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 11.
13 Sump -removal and refitting
R6fer to Chapter 2A. Section 12.
14 Oil pump and pick-up tube -removal, Inspection and refitting
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 10. Refer to Chapter 2A. Section 13.

2C«1
Chapter 2 PartC:
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Auxiliary drivebelts - removal and refitting See Chapter 1B Camshaft cover - removal and refitting 6 Camshaft oil seal - renewal 7 Camshaft - removal and refitting See Chapter 20 Crankshaft oil seats - renewal 8 Cylinder compression test « 3 Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul See Chapter 20 Cylinder head - removal and refitting 9 Engine mountings - inspection and renewal 11 Engine oil and fitter - renewal See Chapter 18 Engine oil level check See Weekly checks
Degrees of difficulty
Flywheel * removal, inspection and refitting 10 General information 1 Location of TDC on No 1 cylinder 2 Oil cooler - removal and refitting 14 Oil pump and pick-up tube • removal, Inspection and refitting 13 Sump • removal and refitting 12 Timing belt and covers • removal and refitting 4 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, Inspection and refitting 5 Valve clearance check and adjustment See Chapter 1B

Easy,
suitable for novice
with Irttle
|| experience g^
FaMy
eesy,
suitable ^
forbeglnnerwilti
some experience ^
Falrtydfficult, ^ suitable
for
competent DIYmechanic ^

Difficult, suitable
for & experienced DIY mechanic ^
Very
difficult,
^ suitable
for
expert
DfY
jR or professional ^
Specifications
General Engine code:' 1698 cc non-turbo engine 176.B3.000 1698 cc turbo engine: Up to 1997 t76.A3.00aor176.A5.000 1997 onward 176.A3.000or176.B7.000 •Note: See Vehicle Identification for the location of the code marking on the engine. Bore 82.6 mm Stroke 79.2 mm Compression ratio: Non-turbo engine 20.5:1 Turbo engine 19:1 Firing order 1-3-4-2
No 1
cylinder location Timing belt end of engine Titling belt tension See text
Lubrication system Oi pump type By-rotor driven from front of crankshaft Outer rotor-to-houslng clearance 0.080 to 0.186 mm Axial clearance 0.025 to 0.056 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft Camshaft cover 10 7 Camshaft sprocket 11B 87 Crankshaft sprocket centre bolt 190 140 Cylinder head: Stage 1 50 37 Stage 2 100 74 StageS Angle-tighten a furtfier 90" Stage 4 Angle-tighten a further 90° CySnder head front bolts 30 22 Flywheel 142 105
Fuel
injection pump sprocket 49 36 Inlet and exhaust manifolds 25 18 Sump 10 7 Timing belt tensioner and idler 44 32

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11

r
<3^
9.46a The locating dowel in the cylinder block 43 It is possible for the ptston crowns to stnke and damage the valve heads, if the camshaft is rotated v/ith the timing belt removed and the crankshaft set to TDC. For this reason, the crankshaft must be set to a position other than TDC on No t cylinder before the cylinder head is refitted. Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt to turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation, until all four pistons are positioned Halfway down their bores, v/ith No 1 piston on lis upstroke - approximately 90° before TDC.
Refitting 44 If the manifolds are being refitted before refitting the cylinder head proceed as follows, otherwise fit the manifolds later when the head is refitted. Ensure thai the inlet and exhaust manifold mating surfaces are completely clean, then locale the new gasket on the studs. 45 Locate the inlet and exhaust manifolds together with the turbocharger, where applicable, on the studs. Refit the nuts and washers and tighten to the specified torque.
sequence
f^/f
9.52b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 and Stage 2 settings using a torque wrench
on the block 46 Lay the new head gasket on the cylinder block engaging it with the locating dowel. The word ALTO must be uppermost (see illustrations). 47 As a means of locating Ihe cylinder head accurately, cut the heads from two of the old cylinder head bolts. Cut a slot, big enough for a screwdriver blade, in the end of each bolt. These can be used as alignment dowels to assist in cylinder head refitting, however If the head is being refitted without the manifolds it is not necessary to take this action. 48 With the help of an assistant, place the cylinder head assembly centrally on the cylinder block ensuring thai the locating dowels engage with Ihe holes in the cylinder head. Check that the head gasket Is correctly seatod before allowing the full weight of the cylinder head to rest on it. 49 Where necessary, unscrew the home-made alignment dowels, using a flat bladed screwdriver. 50 The oyllnder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts in engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. 51 Carefully enter each bolt with washer into its relevant hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by hand only, until finger-tight. 52 Working progressively and In the sequence shown, first tighten the cylinder head bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench and suitable socket (see illustrations). Go round again, in the sequence shown, and tighten the bolls to the Stage 2 torque setting. 53 Once all the bolts have been tightened to their Stage 2 setting, working again in the
bolts to the Stage 3 and Stage 4 settings
9.46c The word ALTO must be uppermost
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar (see illustration). It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and cylinder head prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check tho bolt has been rotated through the correct angle during tightening. Repeat for the Stage 4 setting. 54 Refit the cylinder head front retaining bolts and tighten lo the specified torque. 55 Refit the camshaft cover together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts progressively to the specified torque. 56 The remaining procedure is a reversal of the removal procedure noting the following points. a) Tighten all nut and bolts to the specified torque where given. b) When refitting the metal coolant pipe to the coolant pump, use a new O-ring (see illustration). cj Refit the timing belt with reference to Section 4. d) Use a new exhaust front pipe gasket. e) Refit the auxiliary dhvebeltfs) as described in Chapter 1B. f) Refer to Chapter 4C when refitting the
air
cleaner and air duct. g) Refill the cooling system and fill the engine with new oil with reference to Chapter 1B. 57 Refer to Chapter 20 when starting the engine for the first time.
9.56 Use a new O-ring on the coolant pipe before refitting it to the pump

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Crankshaft Main bearing journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade
1
43.994 to 44.000 mm Grade 2 43.988 to 43.994 mm Grade 3 43.982 to 43.988 mm 1242 cc engine: Grade
1
47.994 to 48.000 mm Grade 2 47.988 to 47.994 mm Grade 3 47.982 to 47.988 mm Diesel engine: Grade 1 52.995 to 53.004 mm Grade 2 52.986 to 52.995 mm Crankpin Journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade A 38.001 to 38.008 mm Grade 8 37.995 to 38.001 mm Grade C 37.988 to 37.995 mm 1242 cc (8-valve) engine: Grade A 42.001 to 42.008 mm Grade 8 41.995 to 42.001 mm Grade C 41.988 to 41.995 mm 1242 cc <16-valve) engine: Grade A 41.990 to 42.008 mm Diesel engine: Grade A 50.796 to 50.805 mm Grade B 50.787 to 50.796 mm Main bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.025 to 0.049 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0.025 to 0.040 mm Dlese! engine 0.027 to 0.066 mm Big-end bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.024 to 0.062 mm 1242 cc (16-vaJve) engine 0.024 to 0.060 mm Diesel engine 0.026 to 0.063 mm Crankshaft endtloat: Petrol engines 0.055 to 0.265 mm Diesel engine 0.049 to 0.231 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf
t

Petrol engines Big-end bolt 41 30 Camshaft bearing caps (1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines: M8x 1.25 20 15 MB 10 7 Main bearing cap: Stage 1 40 30 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Diesel engines Big-end bolt: Stage 1 25 18 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 50° Camshaft bearing caps 19 14 Camshaft side mounts 19 14 Main bearing cap 113 83 Swirl chamber to head 118 87

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Valves and associated components 35 Examine the head of each vaive for pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear. Check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check lor any obvious indication that it Is bent. Look tor pits or excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 36 if the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the vaive stem diameter at several points using a micrometer. Any significant difference in the readings obtained Indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 37 If the valves are In satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-tight seal. If the seat is only tightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should nor be used, unless a seat is badly bumed or deeply pitted, If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be Inspected by an expert, to decldo whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert (where possible) is required. 38 Valve grinding Is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on blocks on a bench. 39 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-gnndtng compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
6.48 Compressing the vaive spring and fitting the split collets
them
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute tho grinding compound (see Illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation 40 If coarse grinding compound Is being used, v/ork only until a dull, matt even surface Is produced on both the valve seal and the valve, then wipe off tho used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring ol light grey malt finish Is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind-In the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 41 When all the valves have been ground-m, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembling the cylinder head. 42 Examine the valve springs for signs of damage ano discoloration, If possible compare the length of the springs with new ones and renew them if necessary. 43 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check ft tor squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost mar tension, obtain a complete new set of springs. It Is normal to renew the valve springs as a matter of course if a major overhaul is being earned out. 44 Renew (he valve stem oil seals regardless of their apparent condition.
Reassembly 45 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and insert the valves into their original locations
6.53 Tightening the camshaft bearing cap nuts (diesel engines)
6.46 Using a socket to press the valve stem seals onto the guides
(see illustration). If new valves are being fitted, insert them Into the locations to which they have been ground. 46 Refit the spring sea( then, working on the first valve, dip the new valve stem sesl in fresh engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it Is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly onto the guide (sea Illustration). 47 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat, then refit the spring retainer. 48 Compress the valve spring, and locate the split collets in the recess in the valve stem. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves (see illustration)
Use a dab o) grease to hold Uiejitts* the collets In position on the HlNT valve stem while the spring compressor is released.
49 With ail the valves Installed, place the cylinder head on blocks on the bench and, using a hammer and Interposed block ol wood, top the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 50 On diesel engines, refit the swirl chambers together with their washers and tighten the retaining collars to the specified torque. 51 Oil the cam followers and locate them In their correct positions in the cylinder head. Locate the shims In the cam followers making sure they are in their original positions. 52 Oil the journals then locate the camshaft m the cylinder head with the cam lobes of No 1 cylinder facing upwards (ie No 1 cylinder at TDC). 53 Refit the bearing caps In their correct positions and progressively tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque (sea illustration). On petrol engines locate the lubrication pipe on Ihe head and press in the oil feed stub before refitting the bolts. 54 On diesel engines fit a new oil sea) to the right-hand side mount, then refit both side mounts together with new gaskets, Tighten the right-hand mount bolts. Also refit the coolant cover and thermostat housing together with new gaskets (see illustrations).

Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the gudgeon pin. Slide it Into the piston and through the connecting rod small-end. Check that the piston pivots freely on the rod. then secure the gudgeon pin in position with two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is correctly located In Its groove in the piston.
Refitting and big-end bearing running ciearance check 27 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, it Is recommended that the big-end bearing running clearance is checked as follows. Big-end bearing running clearance check 28 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap. 29 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch In the connecting rod and cap. Take care not to touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers. If the onginal bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 30 One method is to refit the big-end bearing cap to Ihe connecting rod, ensuring that they are litted the correct way around, with the bearing shells in place. Wilh the cap retaining bolls correctly tightened, use an internal micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and Ihen subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the big-end beanng running clearance. 31 The second, and more accurate method is to use a product called Plasligauge. Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted then place a strand of Plastlgauge on each (cleaned) crankpin journal. 32 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the bg-end bearing caps, using the marks made or noted on removal to ensure that they are fitted the correct way around. 33 Tighten the beanng cap bolts taking care not to disturb the Plastlgauge or rotate the connecting rod dunng the tightening sequence. 34 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating the connecting rods. Use the scale pnnted on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the big-end bearing running clearance. 35 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be Ihe wrong size (or excessively worn. If the original shells are being re-used). Make sure mat no dirt or oil was trapped between Ihe bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider al one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered.
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.40a The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the timing belt end of the engine (petrol engine) 36 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or some other object which is unlikely to score the beanng surfaces.
Final piston/connecting rod refitting 37 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that alt traces of the protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. 38 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, and piston rings, then lay out each piston/con-necting rod assembly in its respective position. 39 Start with assembly No 1. Position the piston ring gaps 120° apart, then clamp them in position with a piston nng compressor. 40 Insert Ihe piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of cylinder making sure it is Ihe correct way round. On petrol engines, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown is pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine and on diesel engines, ensure that the cloverleaf-shaped cut-out on the piston crown is towards the front (oil filter side) of the cylinder block. Using a block of wood or hammer handle against the piston crown, tap the assembly into the cylinder until the piston crown is Hush with the top of the cylinder (sea illustrations). 41 Ensure that the bearing shell is still correctly Installed. Liberally lubricate the crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, pull the piston/connecting rod assembly down the bore and onto the crankpin.
7.40b Inserting the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore using a hammer handle (diesel englno) 42 Refit the big-end beanng cap, tightening Its retaining bolts finger-tight at first, Note that Ihe faces with the identification marks must match (which means that the bearing shell locating tabs abut each other). 43 Tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting. On diesel engines tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque then angle-tighten them to the specified Stage 2 angle using an angle-measuring gauge, (see illustrations) 44 Once the bearing cap retaining bolts have been correctly tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that il turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected if new components have been fitted, but there should be no signs of binding or tight spots. 45 Refit the remaining three piston/ connecting rod assemblies in the same way. 46 Refit the cylinder head, anti-vibration plate (16-valve engines), oil pump pick-up/filter screen assembly and sump with reference to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C.
8 Crankshaft -removal and inspection 35
Removal 1 Remove the
sump,
oil pump and pick-up tube, and flywheel/driveplate with reference to the relevant Sections of Chapter 2 Parts A, 8 or C. On 16-valve engines, unbolt and remove the anti-vibration plate from the main bearing caps.
7.43a Torque-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolls (diesel engine) 7.43b Angle-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolts (diesel engine)