Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet.
You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in
front
of you.
You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one
of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will
separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at the
rear wheels.
The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure
faster than any driver could. The computer
is
programmed to make the most of available tire and road
conditions.
You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on
wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re
going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or
no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your
tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure
in one or
more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on
the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone
poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the
water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just isn’t
a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when it
is raining.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
0 Turn on your low-beam headlamps -- not just your . -,
parking lights -- to help make you more visible to
others.
Besides slowing down, allow-some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room
, .
ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted .
by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See
“Tires” in the Index.)
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The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance
at higher speeds, you may tend to
think you are going
slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must
start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s
work
-- don’t plan to make too many miles that First part
of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go.
If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,
you’ll find experienced and able service experts in
Pontiac dealerships all across North America. They’ll
be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
a
e
a
a
a
e
e
Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked
all levels?
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a short
time to avoid a major storm system?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or
so until help comes.
Loading Your Vehicle
TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION
VEHICLE CAP. WT.
FRT. CTR. RR. TOTAL LBS.
MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE
CAPACITY WEIGHT XXX COLD TIRE
TIRE SIZE SPEED PRESSURE
RTG PSI/KPa
FRT.
RR.
SPA.
IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PS1/28KPa
SEE OWNER’S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL
\INFORMATION
Two labels on your vehicle show how much ‘weight it ’
may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label
found on the driver’s door tells you the proper size,
speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for
the tires
on your vehicle. It also gives you important
information about the number of people that can be in
your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry.
This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and
includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all
nonfactory-installed options.
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If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight
(B). If you have a “wdght-distributing” hitch, the trailer
. tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer
weight
(B) .
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are
proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around
in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the
recommended pressure for cold tires. You’ll find these
numbers on the Certifiidtion label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or see “Loading
Your Vehicle” in the
Index. Then be’sure you don’t go over the GVW limit
for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer
tongue.
Hitclids
It’s imbortant to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are
a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules to follow:
0 Will you have to make my holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do,
then be sure to seal the holes later, when you remove
the hitch.
If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your
vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.
The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for
hitches.
Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
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Compact Spare Tire
Although the compact spare was fully inflated when
your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check
the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi
(420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your
vehicle, you should stop as soon
as possible and make
sure your spare tire is correctly inflated.
The compact
spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for
distances up to
3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can
finish
your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or
replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace
your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your
spare
will last longer and be in good shape in case you
need it again.
I
I NOTICE:
Don’t take your compact spare through an
automatic car wash with guide rails. The
compact spare can get caught on the rails. That
can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other
parts
of your vehicle.
NOTICE:
If the compact spare is used as a rear tire, do not
1 drive faster than 50 mph (80 km/h). Damage to
the rear axle may occur if the compact spare
is
driven faster than 50 mph. This speed limitation
does not apply when the compact spare is used as
a front tire.
Don’t use your compact spare on some other vehicle.
And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other
wheels or tires. They
won’t fit. Keep your spare and its
wheel together.
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Inflation - Tire Pressure
The Tire-Loading Information label which is on the
driver’s door shows the correct inflation pressures for
your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your
vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.
If you’ll be driving at speeds higher than 100 mph (160 km/h)
where it is legal, raise the “cold” inflation pressure of\
each
tire to 35 psi (240 k Pa). When you end this very high speed
driving, reduce the “cold” inflation pressures to those
listed
on the tire loading information label.
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinnation or
overinflation
is all right. It’s not. If’ your tires don’t
have enough
air (underinflation) you can get:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
0 Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
(Continued)
NOTICE: (Continued)
If your tires have too much air (overinflation),
you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
0 Needless damage from road hazards.
. ., .. ,
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more.
Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at
60 psi (420 kPa).
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire
pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the
pressure, especially if you have radial tires
-- which
may look properly inflated even
if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back
on. They help prevent leaks by keeping ou,t dirt and
moisture.
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After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear inflation pressures
as shown on the Tire-Loading
Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the
Index.
When it’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s
time for new tires
is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your
tires have
only 1/16 inch (1.6
mm) or
less of tread remaining.
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