1995 JEEP XJ brake rotor

hand lever. Also note if vehicle was being operated
with parking brake partially applied (this will cause
red light to remain on).
(7) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for be-
ing loose or for bind condition. Do not road test until
condition is corrected.
(8) If components inspected look OK, road test ve-
hicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If amber warning light is on, problem is with
antilock system component. Refer to antilock diagno-
sis section.
(2) If red warning light is not on, proceed to step
(4).
(3) If red warning light is on, proceed as follows:
(a) See if parking brakes are applied. If brakes
are applied, release them and proceed to step (4).
(b) Note if brake pedal is abnormally low. If
pedal is definitely low and red light is still on,
check front/rear hydraulic circuits for leak.Do not
road test. Inspect and repair as needed.
(4) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure. If pedal falls away,
do not road test as problem is in master cylinder, or
HCU on ABS models. If pedal holds firm, proceed to
next step.
(5) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-35 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as hard pedal, pull, grab, drag, noise, fade,
etc.
(6) Return to shop and inspect brake components.
Refer to inspection and diagnosis information.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can
usually be located without removing any components.
The area around a leak point will be wet with fluid.
The components at a dragging brake unit (wheel,
tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo-
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle
and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac-
cess.
During component inspection, pay particular atten-
tion to heavily rusted/corroded brake components
(e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown
springs, support plates, etc.).
Heavy accumulations of rust may be covering se-
vere damage to a brake component. It is wise to re-
move surface rust in order to accurately determine
the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light sur-
face rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as
long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup,especially on high mileage vehicles may cover struc-
tural damage to such important components as
brakelines, rotors, support plates, and brake boost-
ers. Refer to the wheel brake service procedures in
this group for more information.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
The red brake warning light will illuminate under
the following conditions:
²for 2-3 seconds at startup as part of normal bulb
check
²when parking brakes are applied
²low pedal caused by leak in front/rear brake hy-
draulic circuit
If the red light remains on after startup, first ver-
ify that the parking brakes are fully released. Then
check pedal action and fluid level. A red light plus
low pedal indicates the pressure differential switch
and valve have been actuated due to a system leak.
On models with ABS brakes, the amber warning
light only illuminates when an ABS malfunction has
occurred. The ABS light operates independently of
the red warning light.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose,
wheel cylinder, or caliper. Internal leakage in the
master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston
cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or
around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically
evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure at the
end of this section.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the most likely causes.
However, if the pedal remains low and the red warn-
ing light is on, the likely cause is a leak in the hy-
draulic system.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid level may only
be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will
drop somewhat as lining wear occurs. It is a result of
the outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder
pistons to compensate for normal wear.
SPONGY PEDAL
Air in the system is the usual cause of a spongy
pedal. Brake drums machined way beyond allowable
limits (too thin), or substandard brake lines and
hoses can also cause a condition similar to a spongy
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 5

pedal. The proper course of action is to bleed the sys-
tem, or replace thin drums and suspect quality brake
lines and hoses.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lin-
ing that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as described
in this section.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a
product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can be
minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, ro-
tors and drums. A drag condition also worsens as
temperature of the brake parts increases.
Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bolts or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted rotor, brake drum, or shoes
²brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensatorport or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The condition will worsen as brake temperature in-
creases.
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION (NON-ABS BRAKES ONLY)
Pedal pulsation is caused by parts that are loose,
or beyond tolerance limits. This type of pulsation is
constant and will occur every time the brakes are ap-
plied.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation.
On vehicles with ABS brakes, remember that pedal
pulsation is normal during antilock mode brake
stops. If pulsation occurs during light to moderate
brake stops, a standard brake part is either loose, or
worn beyond tolerance.
BRAKE PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension com-
ponent are further causes of pull. A damaged front
tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a partial ap-
ply condition and pull if only one caliper is involved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so re-
duced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is magni-
5 - 6 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ

fied. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of
the brake unit that is functioning normally.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re-
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down
(and is not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB
Rear grab (or pull) is usually caused by contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is in-
volved. However, when both rear wheels are affected,
the master cylinder could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH
DEEP WATER PUDDLES
This condition is caused by water soaked lining. If
the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driving with
the brakes lightly applied for a mile or two. However,
if the lining is both wet and dirty, disassembly and
cleaning will be necessary.
CONTAMINATED BRAKELINING
Brakelining contaminated by water is salvageable.
The lining can either be air dried or dried using heat.
In cases where brakelining is contaminated by oil,
grease, or brake fluid, the lining should be replaced.
Replacement is especially necessary when fluids/lu-
bricants have actually soaked into the lining mate-
rial. However, grease or dirt that gets onto the lining
surface (from handling) during brake repairs, can be
cleaned off. Spray the lining surface clean with Mo-
par brake cleaner.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
There are two basic causes of brake fluid contami-
nation. The first involves allowing dirt, debris, or
other materials to enter the cylinder reservoirs when
the cover is off. The second involves adding non-rec-
ommended fluids to the cylinder reservoirs.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction gun
but only if the brakes have not been applied. If the
brakes are applied after contamination, system flush-
ing will be required. The master cylinder may also
have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston seals
replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reservoir
compensator/return ports can cause brake drag by re-
stricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid may appear discolored, milky, oily looking, or
foamy. However, remember that brake fluid will
darken in time and occasionally be cloudy in appear-ance. These are normal conditions and should not be
mistaken for contamination.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Factory installed brakelining is made from as-
bestos free materials. These materials have dif-
ferent operating characteristics than previous
lining material. Under certain conditions, as-
bestos free lining may generate some squeak,
groan or chirp noise. This noise is considered
normal and does not indicate a problem. The
only time inspection is necessary, is when noise
becomes constant or when grinding, scraping
noises occur.
Constant brake squeak or squeal may be due to lin-
ings that are wet or contaminated with brake fluid,
grease, or oil. Glazed linings, rotors/drums with hard
spots, and dirt/foreign material embedded in the
brake lining also cause squeak. Loud squeak, squeal,
scraping, or grinding sounds are a sign of severely
worn brake lining. If the lining has worn completely
through in spots, metal-to-metal contact occurs.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out, im-
properly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.
Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 7

connect scan tool and proceed to next step.
(7)Repeatconventional bleed procedure described
in steps (4) and (5).
(8) Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify
proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
BRAKELINES AND HOSES
Metal brakelines and rubber brake hoses should be
inspected periodically and replaced if damaged.
Rubber brake hoses should be replaced if cut,
cracked, swollen, or leaking. Rubber hoses must be
replaced as they are not repairable.
Steel brakelines should be inspected any time the
vehicle is in for normal maintenance. This is impor-
tant on high mileage vehicles. It is especially impor-
tant when the vehicle is operated on roads that are
salted during winter months.
Heavily rusted/corroded brake rotors, drums,
support plates, and brakelines should be
cleaned and carefully inspected. Heavy rust
buildup can hide severe damage to a compo-
nent. Severely rusted parts should be replaced
if condition is suspect.
BRAKELINE CHARTS
Brakeline routing and connections are displayed in
Figures 4 through 10. Routing for both right hand drive
(RHD) and left hand drive (LHD) models is provided.
Fig. 4 Brakeline Routing (YJ With ABS)
Fig. 5 Front Brake Hose And Sensor Wire Routing
(RHD XJ With ABS)
5 - 12 BRAKE FLUIDÐBRAKE BLEEDINGÐBRAKELINES AND HOSESJ

WHEEL SPEED SENSOR OPERATION
Wheel speed input signals are generated by a sen-
sor and tone ring at each wheel. The sensors, which
are connected directly to the ECU, are mounted on
brackets attached to the front steering knuckles and
rear brake support plates.
The sensor triggering devices are the tone rings
which are similar in appearance to gears. The tone
rings are located on the outboard end of each front/rear axle shaft. The speed sensors generate a signal
whenever a tone ring tooth rotates past the sensor
pickup face.
The wheel speed sensors provide the input signal
to the ECU. If input signals indicate ABS mode brak-
ing, the ECU causes the HCU solenoids to decrease,
hold, or increase fluid apply pressure as needed.
The HCU solenoid valves are activated only when
wheel speed input signals indicate that a wheel is
approaching a high slip, or lockup condition. At this
point, the ECU will cycle the appropriate wheel con-
trol channel solenoid valves to prevent lockup.
The wheel sensors provide speed signals whenever
the vehicle wheels are rotating. The ECU examines
these signals for degree of deceleration and wheel
slip. If signals indicate normal braking, the solenoid
valves are not activated. However, when incoming
signals indicate the approach of wheel slip, or lockup,
the ECU cycles the solenoid valves as needed.
ACCELERATION SWITCH OPERATION
The ECU monitors the acceleration switch at all
times. The switch assembly contains three mercury
switches that monitor vehicle ride height and decel-
eration rates (G-force). Sudden, rapid changes in ve-
hicle and wheel deceleration rate, triggers the switch
sending a signal to the ECU. The switch assembly
provides three deceleration rates; two for forward
braking and one for rearward braking.
ECU OPERATION
The antilock ECU controls all phases of antilock
operation. It monitors and processes input signals
from the system sensors.
It is the ECU that activates the solenoid valves to
modulate apply pressure during antilock braking.
The ECU program is able to determine which wheel
control channel requires modulation and which fluid
pressure modulation cycle to use. The ECU cycles the
solenoid valves through the pressure decrease, hold
and increase phases.
ABS COMPONENT SERVICEABILITY
The ECU, acceleration sensor, wheel sensors, and
wire harnesses are serviced as assemblies only. The
axle shaft tone wheels are also not serviceable. If a
tone wheel becomes damaged, it will be necessary to
replace the axle shaft, or disc brake rotor and hub
assembly.
SPEED SENSOR AIR GAP
Front sensor air gap is fixed and not adjustable.
Only rear sensor air gap is adjustable.
Although front air gap is not adjustable, it can be
checked if diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Front
Fig. 7 Pressure Hold Cycle
Fig. 8 Pressure Increase Cycle
JABS OPERATION AND SERVICE 5 - 37

DISC BRAKES
INDEX
page page
Caliper Assembly......................... 50
Caliper Cleaning and Inspection.............. 50
Caliper Disassembly....................... 48
Caliper Installation........................ 51
Caliper Operation and Wear Compensation...... 45
Caliper Removal.......................... 48
Disc Brake Rotor Refinishing................. 53
Disc Brake Rotor Runout.................... 52Disc Brake Rotor Thickness................. 52
Disc Brake Rotor Thickness Variation.......... 52
Disc Brakeshoe Installation.................. 47
Disc Brakeshoe Removal................... 46
General Information....................... 45
Rotor Installation.......................... 51
Rotor Removal........................... 51
Wheel Nut Tightening...................... 54
GENERAL INFORMATION
Jeep XJ/YJ models are equipped with single piston,
floating-type disc brake calipers. Ventilated, cast ro-
tors are used for all applications.
The disc brake calipers are supported in mounting
arms that are an integral part of the steering
knuckle. The calipers slide on mounting bolts that
also attach the calipers to the steering knuckle.
CALIPER OPERATION AND WEAR COMPENSATION
Caliper Operation
The significant feature of single piston caliper op-
eration is that the calipers are free to slide laterally
on the mounting bolts. It is the freedom of lateral
movement that allows continuous compensation for
lining wear.
A simplified cross section of a single piston caliper
is shown in Figure 1. The illustration graphically
portrays the forces at work when the brakes are ap-
plied.
Upon brake application, fluid pressure exerted
against the caliper piston increases greatly. Of equal
importance, is the fact that fluid pressure is exerted
equally and in all directions. What this means, is
that pressure in the caliper bore, will be exactly the
same as pressure on the piston. In other words, pres-
sure against piston and caliper bore is equal.
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brakeshoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor (Fig. 1).
At the same time, fluid pressure within the piston
bore, forces the caliper to slide inward on the mount-
ing bolts. This action brings the outboard brakeshoe
lining into contact with the outer surface of the disc
brake rotor (Fig. 1).
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehi-
cle to a stop.Brakeshoe Wear Compensation
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brakeshoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting be-
tween the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig. 2).
When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are released,
the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
Fig. 1 Disc Brake Caliper Operation
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 45

The amount of piston retraction is determined by
brakelining wear. Generally, the amount is just
enough to maintain contact between the piston and
inboard brakeshoe. Brakelining running clearance at
the rotor, will be held between zero and a maximum
of 0.12 mm (0.005 in.).
DISC BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der front brake reservoir with suction gun.
(3) Bottom caliper piston in bore with C-clamp. Po-
sition clamp screw on outboard brakeshoe and clamp
frame on rear of caliper. Typical C-clamp attachment
is shown in Figure 3.Do not allow clamp screw to
bear directly on outboard shoe retainer spring.
Use wood or metal spacer between shoe and
clamp screw if necessary.
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).If
brakeshoes are being removed to correct a pull
or drag condition, verify length of caliper bolts
as they may be incorrect length. Refer to bolt
information in brakeshoe installation proce-
dure.
(5) Tilt top of caliper outward. Use pry tool if nec-
essary (Fig. 5).
(6) Lift caliper off steering knuckle (Fig. 6).(7)If original brakeshoes will be used, keep
them in sets (left and right); they are not inter-
changeable.
Fig. 2 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
Fig. 3 Bottoming Caliper Piston With C-Clamp
Fig. 4 Removing/Installing Caliper Mounting Bolts
Fig. 5 Tilting Caliper Outward
Fig. 6 Caliper Removal
5 - 46 DISC BRAKESJ

install caliper over rotor and seat upper ends of
brakeshoes on top mounting ledge (Fig. 11).
CAUTION: Before securing the caliper, be sure the
caliper brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touch-
ing any chassis components. Also be sure the hose
is clear of all suspension and steering components.
Loosen and reposition the hose if necessary.
(8) Install and tighten caliper mounting bolts to
10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they will contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for required caliper bolt length.
(9) Install wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 102 Nzm (75
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brakeshoes are seated.(11) Top off brake fluid level if necessary. Use Mo-
par brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE J1703 and
DOT 3 standards only.
CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Remove fitting bolt and disconnect front brake
hose at caliper. Discard fitting bolt gaskets. They
should not be reused.
(3) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).
(4) Rotate caliper rearward by hand or with pry
tool (Fig. 5). Then rotate caliper and brakeshoes off
mounting ledges.
(5) Remove caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper.
Fig. 11 Installing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 12 Installing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 13 Caliper Installation
Fig. 14 Caliper Mounting Bolt Dimensions
5 - 48 DISC BRAKESJ