1995 JEEP CHEROKEE lug nuts

²Do not allow passengers to ride in a vehicle being
towed.
²Always observe state and local laws regarding tow-
ing regulations.²Do not tow a vehicle in a manner that could jeop-
ardize the safety of the operator, pedestrians or other
motorists.
²Do not attach tow chains, T-hooks, J-hooks, or a
tow sling to a bumper, steering linkage, drive shafts
or a non-reinforced frame hole.
GROUND CLEARANCE AND RAMP ANGLE
GROUND CLEARANCE
CAUTION: If vehicle is towed with wheels removed,
install lug nuts to retain brake drums.
A towed vehicle should be raised until lifted wheels
are a minimum 100 mm (4 in) from the ground. Be
sure there is adequate ground clearance at the oppo-
site end of the vehicle, especially when towing over
rough terrain or steep rises in the road. If necessary,
remove the wheels from the lifted end of the vehicle
and lower the vehicle closer to the ground, to in-
crease the ground clearance at the opposite end of
the vehicle. Install lug nuts on wheel attaching studs
to retain brake drums.
FLAT-BED TOWING RAMP ANGLE
If a vehicle with flat-bed towing equipment is used,
the approach ramp angle should not exceed 15 de-
grees.
TWO-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLE TOWINGÐXJ
Chrysler Corporation recommends that a vehicle be
towed with the rear end lifted, whenever possible.
TOWING-REAR END LIFTED (SLING-TYPE)
CAUTION: Do not use steering column lock to se-
cure steering wheel during towing operation.
2WD XJ vehicles can be towed with the front
wheels on the surface for extended distances at
speeds not exceeding 48 km/h (30 mph).
(1) Attach J-hooks around the axle shaft tube out-
board of the shock absorber.
(2) Place the sling crossbar under and forward of
the bumper.
(3) Attach safety chains around the frame rails.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position to
unlock the steering wheel.
(5) Secure steering wheel in the straight ahead po-
sition with a clamp device designed for towing.
(6) Verify that steering components are in good
condition.
(7) Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL.
Fig. 3 Correct Vehicle Lifting LocationsÐTypical
Fig. 4 Tow Vehicles With Approved Equipment.
JLUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 11

Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-
joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion gear shaft bore will also cause low speed
knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft
²Missing drive shaft balance weight
²Worn, out-of-balance wheels
²Loose wheel lug nuts
²Worn U-joint
²Loose spring U-bolts
²Loose/broken springs
²Damaged axle shaft bearings
²Loose pinion gear nut
²Excessive pinion yoke run out²Bent axle shaft
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end vi-
bration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined be-
fore starting any repair.
Refer to Group 22ÐTires And Wheels for addi-
tional information involving vibration diagnosis.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts
²Worn U-joints
²Loose spring mounts
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
²Excessive ring gear backlash
²Excessive differential side gear-to-case clearance
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the ve-
hicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate.
Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into
gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is
helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
JFRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLE 2 - 19

CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the dif-
ferential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces. Use solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 1).Allow the sealant
to cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes af-
ter applying the sealant. If not installed the
sealant must be removed and another bead ap-
plied.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 41
Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill the differential with MOPARtHypoid
Gear Lubricant to bottom of the fill plug hole.
(9) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐXJ
VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle and position support stands
under the frame rails behind the lower suspension
arm frame brackets.
(2) Remove the front wheels.
(3) Remove the brake components and ABS brake
sensor (if equipped). Refer to Group 5ÐBrakes.
(4) On 4WD vehicles, disconnect the axle vent
hose.
(5) On 4WD vehicles, mark the drive shaft yoke
and axle pinion yoke for alignment reference. Discon-
nect the drive shaft from the axle.
(6) Disconnect the stabilizer bar link at the axle
bracket.
(7) Disconnect the shock absorbers from axle
bracket.
(8) Disconnect the track bar from the axle bracket.
(9) Disconnect the tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckle. Disconnect the steering damper
from the axle bracket.
(10) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential.
(11) Disconnect the upper and lower suspension
arms from the axle bracket.
(12) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
The coil springs will drop with the axle.
(13) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at
normal height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fas-
teners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal
ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected
and premature bushing wear may occur. Rubber
bushings must never be lubricated.
(1) Install the springs and retainer clip. Tighten
the retainer bolts to 21 Nzm (16 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(3) Raise the axle with a floor jack and align it
with the spring pads.
(4) Position the upper and lower suspension arm at
the axle bracket. Install bolts and nuts finger
tighten.
(5) Connect the track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt.Do not tighten at this time.
It is important that the springs support the
weight of the vehicle when the track bar is con-
nected. If springs are not at their usual posi-
tion, vehicle ride comfort could be affected.
Fig. 1 Typical Housing Cover With Sealant
JFRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLE 2 - 23

This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion gear shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft
²Missing drive shaft balance weight
²Worn, out-of-balance wheels
²Loose wheel lug nuts
²Worn U-joint
²Loose spring U-bolts
²Loose/broken springs
²Damaged axle shaft bearings
²Loose pinion gear nut
²Excessive pinion yoke run out
²Bent axle shaft
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end vi-
bration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined be-
fore starting any repair.
Refer to Group 22, Wheels and Tires for additional
information.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts
²Worn U-joints
²Loose spring mounts
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
²Excessive ring gear backlash
²Excessive side gear\ase clearance
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the ve-
hicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate.
Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into
gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is
helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
REAR AXLE ALIGNMENT
MEASUREMENT
The following procedure can be used to determine
if abnormal rear tire tread wear is the result of a
bent or deformed rear axle shaft.
(1) Raise both rear wheels off the surface with a
frame contact hoist.
(2) Attach a one-inch long piece of masking tape at
the center of each tire tread for use as reference marks.
(3) Rotate the rear wheels until both reference
marks face the front of the vehicle. Measure the dis-
tance between the outside edges of the two pieces of
tape. Record this measurement as the front of tire
(FTR) measurement.
(4) Rotate the rear wheels until both reference
marks face the rear of the vehicle. Measure the dis-
tance between the outside edges of the two pieces of
tape. Record this measurement as the rear of tire
(RTR) measurement.
(5) Subtract the (RTR) measurement from the
(FTR) measurement to obtain the amount of wheel
toe. The acceptable rear wheel toe-in position is 1/16
inch (1.6 mm) to 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) toe-out.
(6) Rotate the rear wheels until the reference
marks are facing downward. Measure the distance
between the outside edges of the two pieces of tape.
Record this measurement as the bottom of tire (BTR)
measurement.
(7) Average the (FTR) and the (RTR) distance mea-
surements. Subtract the (BTR) measurement from
this average distance to obtain the camber. The ac-
ceptable amount of camber is 1/16 inch to 3/32 inch
(1.6 to 2.4 mm).
(FTR + RTR) DIVIDED BY 2 (TWO) MINUS
BTR EQUALS CAMBER
If the (BTR) distance measurement is less
than the average FTR and RTR distance mea-
surement, the camber will be positive(+).If
the (BTR) distance measurement is greater
than the average FTR and RTR distance, the
camber will be negative(-).
If the toe position or camber is not acceptable, a bent
or deformed rear axle shaft is most likely the cause.
LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
Under normal traction conditions, engine torque is di-
vided evenly. With low-traction surfaces, engine torque
is transferred to the wheel with the most tire traction.
When diagnosing a limited-slip differential the wheel
with the least traction can continue spinning.
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Check for incorrect or contaminated
lubricant. Replace the gear lubricant if necessary.
²With Trac-LokŸ differentials add a container of
MOPAR Trac-Lok Lubricant.
This will correct the condition in most instances. If
the chatter persists, clutch damage could have oc-
curred.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches.
3 - 10 REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLESJ

install caliper over rotor and seat upper ends of
brakeshoes on top mounting ledge (Fig. 11).
CAUTION: Before securing the caliper, be sure the
caliper brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touch-
ing any chassis components. Also be sure the hose
is clear of all suspension and steering components.
Loosen and reposition the hose if necessary.
(8) Install and tighten caliper mounting bolts to
10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they will contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for required caliper bolt length.
(9) Install wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 102 Nzm (75
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brakeshoes are seated.(11) Top off brake fluid level if necessary. Use Mo-
par brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE J1703 and
DOT 3 standards only.
CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Remove fitting bolt and disconnect front brake
hose at caliper. Discard fitting bolt gaskets. They
should not be reused.
(3) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).
(4) Rotate caliper rearward by hand or with pry
tool (Fig. 5). Then rotate caliper and brakeshoes off
mounting ledges.
(5) Remove caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper.
Fig. 11 Installing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 12 Installing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 13 Caliper Installation
Fig. 14 Caliper Mounting Bolt Dimensions
5 - 48 DISC BRAKESJ

CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brakeshoes in caliper (Figs. 11, 12).
(2) Connect brake hose to caliper but do not
tighten fitting bolt completely at this time.Be sure
to use new gaskets on fitting bolt to avoid leaks
(Fig. 25).
(3) Install caliper. Position mounting notches at
lower end of brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge
(Fig. 13). Then rotate caliper over rotor and seat
notches at upper end of shoes on mounting ledge
(Fig. 13).
(4) Coat caliper mounting bolts with GE 661 or
Dow 111 silicone grease. Then install and tighten
bolts to 10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they may contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for the required caliper bolt length.
(5) Position front brake hose clear of all chassis
components and tighten caliper fitting bolt to 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Be sure the brake hose is not twisted or
kinked at any point. Also be sure the hose is clear
of all steering and suspension components. Loosen
and reposition the hose if necessary.
(6) Install wheels. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 109-
150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system. Refer to proce-
dures in Service Adjustments section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Remove caliper.
(3) Remove retainers securing rotor to hub studs
(Fig. 26).
(4) Remove rotor from hub (Fig. 26).
(5) If rotor shield requires service, remove front
hub and bearing assembly.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) If new rotor is being installed, remove protec-
tive coating from rotor surfaces with Mopar carb
cleaner.It is not necessary to machine a rotor to
remove the coating. Mopar carb cleaner fol-
lowed by a rinse with brake cleaner will re-
move the coating.
(2) Install rotor on hub.
(3) Install caliper.
Fig. 23 Installing Caliper Piston
Fig. 24 Seating Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 25 Front Brake Hose And Fitting Components
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 51

DRUM BRAKES
INDEX
page page
Brake Drum Refinishing.................... 58
Drum Brake Adjustment.................... 57
Drum Brakeshoe Installation................. 55
Drum Brakeshoe Removal................... 55
Support Plate Replacement.................. 58Wheel Cylinder Installation.................. 58
Wheel Cylinder Overhaul.................... 57
Wheel Cylinder Removal.................... 57
Wheel Nut Tightening...................... 59
DRUM BRAKESHOE REMOVAL (Figs. 1 and 2)
(1) Raise vehicle and remove rear wheels.
(2) Remove and discard spring nuts securing
drums to wheel studs.
(3) Remove brake drums. If drums prove difficult
to remove, retract brakeshoes. Remove access plug at
the rear of backing plate and back off adjuster screw
with brake tool and screwdriver.
(4) Remove U-clip and washer securing adjuster
cable to parking brake lever.
(5) Remove primary and secondary return springs
from anchor pin with Brake Spring Plier Tool 8078.
(6) Remove holddown springs, retainers and pins
with standard retaining spring tool.
(7) Install spring clamps on wheel cylinders to hold
pistons in place.
(8) Remove adjuster lever, adjuster screw and
spring.
(9) Remove adjuster cable and cable guide.
(10) Remove brakeshoes and parking brake strut.(11) Disconnect cable from parking brake lever and
remove lever.
DRUM BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Clean support plate with Mopar brake cleaner.
Replace support plate if worn, or rusted through at
any point. Do not attempt to salvage, or reuse a dam-
aged support plate.
(2) If new drums are being installed, remove pro-
tective coating with Mopar Carb cleaner followed by
final rinse with Mopar brake cleaner. A scotch brite
pad, or steel wool can also be used to help loosen and
remove coating if desired.It is not necessary to
machine drums to remove the coating.
(3) Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat
of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(4) Apply Mopar multi-mileage grease to brakeshoe
contact surfaces of support plate (Figs. 3 and 4).
(5) Lubricate adjuster screw threads and pivot
with Mopar spray lube.
Fig. 1 Nine Inch Drum Brake Components
JDRUM BRAKES 5 - 55

If the brake drums are heavily coated with rust,
clean and inspect them carefully. Rust damage on
high mileage drums can be severe enough to require
replacement.
New drums have a protective coating that should
be removed before installation.It is not necessary
to machine a drum to remove this coating. The
coating is easily removed with Mopar carb
cleaner followed by a rinse with Mopar brake
cleaner. A scotch brite pad, or steel wool can
also be used to help loosen and remove the
coating if desired.
The maximum allowable diameter for the drum
braking surface is usually indicated on the drum
outer face (Fig. 11).
WHEEL NUT TIGHTENING
The wheel attaching lug nuts must be tightened
properly to ensure efficient brake operation. Over-tightening the nuts or tightening them in the wrong
sequence can cause distortion of the brake rotors and
drums.
Impact wrenches are not recommended for tighten-
ing wheel nuts. A torque wrench should be used for
this purpose.
A light coat of LPS Anti-Corrosion spray lube
around the hub face and on the studs will cut down
on rust/corrosion formation.
The correct tightening sequence is important in
avoiding rotor and drum distortion. The correct se-
quence is in a diagonal crossing pattern (Fig. 12).
Recommended torque range for XJ/YJ wheel nuts
is 109-150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.).
Seat the wheel and install the wheel nuts finger
tight. Tighten the nuts in the sequence to half the re-
quired torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence
to final specified torque.
Fig. 11 Typical Location Of Brake Drum Refinish
Limit
Fig. 12 Wheel Nut Tightening Sequence
JDRUM BRAKES 5 - 59