
nostic Procedures manual for diagnostic information
and operation of the DRB scan tool.
To test operation of the fan relay only, refer to Re-
laysÐOperation/Testing. This can be found in Group
14, Fuel Systems.
REMOVAL
The auxiliary cooling fan is attached to the radia-
tor upper crossmember behind the radiator.
(1) Remove the two fan mounting bolts from radi-
ator upper crossmember (Fig. 43).
(2) Disconnect the electric fan connector.
(3) Lift fan straight up and out of vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align lower retaining tabs of fan shroud with
slots in bracket at bottom of radiator. Push fan down
into position.
(2) Tighten the mounting bolts to 4 Nzm (31 in.
lbs.) torque.
(3) Connect auxiliary cooling fan electrical connec-
tor.
TRANSMISSION OIL COOLERS
WATER-TO-OIL COOLER
All models equipped with an automatic transmis-
sion are equipped with a transmission oil cooler
mounted internally within the radiator tank. This in-
ternal cooler is supplied as standard equipment on
all models equipped with an automatic transmission.
Transmission oil is cooled when it passes through
this separate cooler. In case of a leak in the internalradiator mounted transmission oil cooler, engine cool-
ant may become mixed with transmission fluid or
transmission fluid may enter engine cooling system.
Both cooling system and transmission should be
drained and inspected if the internal radiator
mounted transmission cooler is leaking.
Also refer to the section on Transmission Air-to-Oil
Coolers. This auxiliary air-to-oil cooler is an option
on most engine packages.
REPLACING WATER-TO-OIL COOLER IN
RADIATOR SIDE TANK
The internal transmission oil cooler located within
the radiator is not serviceable. If it requires service,
the radiator must be replaced.
Once the repaired or replacement radiator has
been installed, fill the cooling system and inspect for
leaks. Refer to the Refilling Cooling System and Test-
ing Cooling System For Leaks sections in this group.
If the transmission operates properly after repairing
the leak, drain the transmission and remove the
transmission oil pan. Inspect for sludge and/or rust.
Inspect for a dirty or plugged inlet filter. If none of
these conditions are found, the transmission and
torque convertor may not require reconditioning. Re-
fer to Group 21 for automatic transmission servicing.
AIR-TO-OIL COOLER
An auxiliary air-to-oil transmission oil cooler is
available with most engine packages.
On XJ and YJ models, the cooler is located in front
of the radiator or A/C condenser (if equipped) and be-
hind the grill (Figs. 44, 45 or 46). It is mounted to
the front frame crossmember.
Fig. 43 Auxiliary Cooling FanÐRemove/InstallÐ
Typical
Fig. 44 Auxiliary Air-To-Oil CoolerÐYJ Models
7 - 36 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

The auxiliary oil coolers on all models operate in
conjunction with the internal radiator mounted main
oil cooler. The transmission oil is routed through the
main cooler first, then the auxiliary cooler, before re-
turning to the transmission.REMOVAL/INSTALLATIONÐXJ MODELS
(1) Remove the grill mounting screws and remove
the grill. Refer to Group 23, Body for procedures.
(2) Place a drain pan below the transmission oil
cooler.
(3) Remove the two hose clamps at oil cooler inlet
and outlet tubes (Figs. 45 or 46).
(4) Remove the two oil cooler mounting bolts (Figs.
45 or 46).
(5) Remove the oil cooler from vehicle.
(6) Reverse the preceding operation for installa-
tion. Tighten the two clamps 2 Nzm (15 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten mounting bolts to 8 Nzm (72 in. lbs.)
torque.
REMOVAL/INSTALLATIONÐYJ MODELS
(1) Remove fan shroud and radiator. Refer to the
Radiators section for procedures.
(2) Remove the air conditioning filter/drier mount-
ing bolts.
WARNING: BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE NEXT
STEP, BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. THE
A/C SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE EVEN WITH
THE ENGINE OFF.
(3) Remove the A/C condenser mounting bolts (Fig.
47).
(4) Carefully tilt the A/C condenser rearward for
access to the auxiliary transmission oil cooler.
(5) Place a drain pan below the oil cooler.
(6) Remove the two hose clamps at oil cooler inlet
and outlet tubes (Fig. 44).
(7) Remove the three oil cooler mounting bolts
(Fig. 44).
(8) Remove the oil cooler from vehicle.
(9) Reverse the preceding operation for installa-
tion. Tighten the two clamps 2 Nzm (15 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten mounting bolts to 8 Nzm (72 in. lbs.)
torque.
Fig. 45 Auxiliary Air-To-Oil CoolerÐXJ ModelsÐ4.0L
Engine
Fig. 46 Auxiliary Air-To-Oil CoolerÐXJ ModelsÐ2.5L
Engine
Fig. 47 Condenser Mounting BoltsÐYJ Models
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 37

(5) Probe cavity B1 of cluster connector A. Check
for continuity to a good ground. There should be no
continuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair
short circuit as required.
(6) Still probing cavity B1 of cluster connector A,
check for continuity to cavity B of sending unit body
half connector. There should be continuity. If OK, re-
place gauge. If not OK, repair open circuit as re-
quired.
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with engine oiling sys-
tem performance. Actual engine oil pressure should
be checked with a test gauge and compared to gauge
readings before you proceed with gauge diagnosis.
Refer to Group 9 - Engines for more information.
(1) Turn ignition switch to ON. Disconnect oil pres-
sure sending unit connector. The sending unit (Fig. 3)
is located on right side of engine block. On 2.5L en-
gine, it is just forward of ignition distributor and just
to the rear of generator mounting bracket. On 4.0L
engine, it is just to the rear of ignition distributor
and above oil filter adapter. The gauge needle should
move to high end of gauge scale. If OK, go to next
step. If not OK, go to step 3.
(2) Install a jumper wire from sending unit wiring
to ground. The gauge needle should move to low end
of gauge scale. If OK, replace sending unit. If not
OK, remove jumper wire and go to next step.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove instrument cluster bezel and
cluster assembly. Disconnect instrument cluster con-
nector A.
(4) Probe cavity B7 (cavity B8 - RHD) of cluster
connector A. Check for continuity to a good ground.
There should be no continuity. If OK, go to next step.
If not OK, repair short circuit as required.(5) Still probing cavity B7 (cavity B8 - RHD) of
cluster connector A, check for continuity to sending
unit wire connector. There should be continuity. If
OK, replace gauge. If not OK, repair open circuit as
required.
SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with incorrect speed-
ometer pinion, axle ratio or tire size. Refer to Group
21 - Transmission and Transfer Case for more infor-
mation.
(1) Perform vehicle speed sensor test as described
in the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures
manual. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, replace ve-
hicle speed sensor.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug vehi-
cle speed sensor, PCM, and daytime running lamp
module connectors. Remove instrument cluster bezel
and cluster assembly. Disconnect instrument cluster
connector A.
(3) Probe cavity A5 (cavity B6 - RHD) of cluster
connector A. Check for continuity to a good ground.
There should be no continuity. If OK, go to next step.
If not OK, repair short circuit as required.
(4) Still probing cavity A5 (cavity B6 - RHD) of
cluster connector A, check for continuity to cavity 1 of
vehicle speed sensor connector (Fig. 4). There should
be continuity. If OK, replace speedometer/odometer. If
not OK, repair open circuit as required.
TACHOMETER
(1) With engine running, check for tachometer sig-
nal at pin 43 of PCM connector (Fig. 5). See Tachom-
eter Calibration chart in Specifications. If OK, go to
next step. If not OK, replace PCM.
Fig. 2 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit ConnectorFig. 3 Oil Pressure Switch/Sending Unit - Typical
8E - 6 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐXJJ

(2) Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove in-
strument cluster bezel and cluster assembly. Unplug
cluster connector A. Connect battery negative cable.
Turn headlamps on and select high beam. Check for
battery voltage at cavity A4 of cluster connector A. If
OK, replace indicator bulb. If not OK, repair circuit
to headlamp dimmer (multi-function) switch as re-
quired.
LOW FUEL WARNING LAMP
(1) Check that fuel gauge is operating as designed.
See Fuel Gauge Calibration chart in Specifications. If
OK, go to next step. If not OK, see Fuel Gauge in
this section for diagnosis.
(2) With at least 10 gallons of fuel in fuel tank, un-
plug fuel tank sending unit connector. Turn ignition
switch to ON and wait 10 seconds. Lamp (LED)
should light. Reconnect fuel tank sending unit and
wait 20 seconds. Lamp (LED) should go off. If not
OK, replace low fuel warning lamp module.
LOW OIL PRESSURE WARNING LAMP
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
lamp condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to lamp accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with lamp and not with engine oiling sys-
tem. Actual engine oil pressure should be checked
with a test gauge before you proceed with lamp diag-
nosis. Refer to Group 9 - Engines for more informa-
tion.
(1) Turn ignition switch to ON. Lamp should light.
Start engine. Lamp should go off. If not OK, turn en-
gine off and go to next step.
(2) Unplug connector at oil pressure switch (Fig.
3). The switch is located on right side of engine block.
On 2.5L engine, it is just forward of ignition distrib-
utor and just to the rear of generator mounting
bracket. On 4.0L engine, it is just to the rear of igni-
tion distributor and above oil filter adapter. Install a
jumper wire from connector to a good ground. Turn
ignition switch to ON. Lamp should light. Unplug
jumper wire. Lamp should go out. If OK, replace oil
pressure switch. If not OK, go to next step.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove instrument cluster bezel and
cluster assembly. Install a jumper wire from cavity
B7 (cavity B8 - RHD) of cluster connector A to a good
ground. Connect battery negative cable and turn ig-
nition switch to ON. Lamp should light. If OK, go to
next step. If not OK, replace lamp bulb.
(4) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Unplug instrument cluster connector
A. Check continuity between cavity B7 (cavity B8 -
RHD) of cluster connector A and a good ground.
There should be no continuity. If OK, go to next step.
If not OK, repair short circuit as required.
(5) Check continuity between cavity B7 (cavity B8
- RHD) of cluster connector A and oil pressure switchconnector. There should be continuity. If not OK, re-
pair open circuit as required.
LOW WASHER FLUID WARNING LAMP
(1) Unplug washer fluid level switch connector.
Turn ignition switch to ON. Check for battery voltage
at connector cavity A. If OK, turn ignition switch to
OFF and go to next step. If not OK, repair open cir-
cuit to fuse F6 in PDC.
(2) Install a jumper wire from cavity A to cavity B
of washer fluid level switch connector. Turn ignition
switch to ON. Lamp should light. Unplug jumper and
lamp should go OFF. If OK, replace washer fluid
level switch. If not OK, go to next step.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove instrument cluster bezel and
cluster assembly. Unplug instrument cluster (tell-
tale) connector B. Check continuity between cavity 16
(cavity 1 - RHD) of cluster connector B and a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, plug clus-
ter connector B back into cluster and go to next step.
If not OK, repair open circuit to ground as required.
(4) Connect battery negative cable. Install a
jumper wire from a 12-volt battery feed to cavity 1
(cavity 16 - RHD) of cluster connector B. Lamp
should light. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, re-
place bulb.
(5) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug clus-
ter connector B. Check continuity between cavity 1
(cavity 16 - RHD) of cluster connector B and a good
ground. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to
next step. If not OK, repair short circuit to switch as
required.
(6) Check continuity between cavity 1 (cavity 16 -
RHD) of cluster connector B and cavity B of washer
fluid level switch connector. There should be continu-
ity. If not OK, repair open circuit to switch as re-
quired.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
lamp condition. If the lamp comes on and stays on
with engine running, refer to Group 14 - Fuel System
for diagnosis. If no fuel or emission system problem
is found, the following procedure will help locate a
short or open in the lamp circuit.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug PCM
connector. Install a jumper wire from cavity 32 of
PCM connector (Fig. 5) to a good ground. Connect
battery negative cable. Turn ignition switch to ON.
Lamp should light. Remove jumper wire and lamp
should go OFF. If OK, refer to Powertrain Diagnostic
Procedures to check PCM. If not OK, go to next step.
(2) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove instrument cluster bezel and
cluster assembly. Install a jumper wire from cavity 2
(cavity 15 - RHD) of cluster (tell-tale) connector B to
a good ground. Connect battery negative cable. Turn
8E - 14 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐXJJ

continuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair
circuit to ground as required.
(4) Remove center instrument cluster bezel and
gauge package cluster assembly. Disconnect cluster
connector.
(5) Probe cavity 6 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(6) Still probing cavity 6 of cluster connector, check
for continuity to cavity 2 of sending unit wiring body
half connector. There should be continuity. If OK, re-
place gauge. If not OK, repair open circuit as re-
quired.
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with engine oiling sys-
tem performance. Actual engine oil pressure should
be checked with a test gauge and compared to gauge
readings before you proceed with gauge diagnosis.
Refer to Group 9 - Engines for more information.
(1) Turn ignition switch to ON. Disconnect oil pres-
sure sending unit connector. The sending unit (Fig. 3)
is located on right side of engine block. On 2.5L en-
gine, it is just forward of ignition distributor and just
to the rear of generator mounting bracket. On 4.0L
engine, it is just to the rear of ignition distributor
and above oil filter adapter. The gauge needle should
move to high end of gauge scale. If OK, go to next
step. If not OK, go to step 3.
(2) Install a jumper wire from sending unit wiring
to ground. The gauge needle should move to low end
of gauge scale. If OK, replace sending unit. If not
OK, remove jumper wire and go to next step.(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove center instrument cluster be-
zel and gauge package cluster assembly. Disconnect
cluster connector.
(4) Probe cavity 9 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(5) Still probing cavity 9 of cluster connector, check
for continuity to sending unit wire connector. There
should be continuity. If OK, replace gauge. If not OK,
repair open circuit as required.
SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with incorrect speed-
ometer pinion, axle ratio or tire size. Refer to Group
21 - Transmission and Transfer Case for more infor-
mation.
(1) Perform vehicle speed sensor test as described
in the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures
manual. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, replace ve-
hicle speed sensor.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug vehi-
cle speed sensor, PCM, and daytime running lamp
module connectors. Remove left instrument cluster
bezel and main cluster assembly. Disconnect cluster
connector.
(3) Probe cavity 13 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(4) Still probing cavity 13 of cluster connector,
check for continuity to cavity 1 of vehicle speed sen-
sor connector (Fig. 4). There should be continuity. If
OK, replace speedometer/odometer. If not OK, repair
open circuit as required.
Fig. 2 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit ConnectorFig. 3 Oil Pressure Sending Unit - Typical
8E - 28 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐYJJ

minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a lo-
cating dowel is recommended during assembly to pre-
vent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
To provide best vehicle performance and lowest ve-
hicle emissions, it is most important that the tune-up
be done accurately. Use the specifications listed on
the Vehicle Emission Control Information label found
on the engine compartment hood.
(1) Test battery specific gravity. Add water, if nec-
essary. Clean and tighten battery connections.
(2) Test cranking amperage draw (refer to Group
8B, Battery/Starter Service for the proper proce-
dures).
(3) Tighten the intake manifold bolts (refer to
Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for
the proper specifications).
(4) Perform cylinder compression test:
(a) Check engine oil level and add oil, if neces-
sary.
(b) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature.
(c) Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws and
briskly accelerate through the gears several times.
The higher engine speed may help clean out valve
seat deposits which can prevent accurate compres-
sion readings.
CAUTION: DO NOT overspeed the engine.
(d) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for ab-
normal firing indicatorsÐfouled, hot, oily, etc.
Record cylinder number of spark plug for future
reference.
(e) Disconnect coil wire from distributor and se-
cure to good ground to prevent a spark from start-
ing a fire.
(f) Be sure throttle blades are fully open during
the compression check.
(g) Insert compression gage adaptor into the
No.1 spark plug hole. Crank engine until maximum
pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure
as No.1 cylinder pressure.
(h) Repeat Step 4g for all remaining cylinders.
(i) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 172 kPa (25 psi)
from cylinder to cylinder.(j) If cylinder(s) have abnormally low compres-
sion pressures, repeat steps 4a through 4h.
(k) If the same cylinder(s) repeat an abnormally
low reading, it could indicate the existence of a
problem in the cylinder.
The recommended compression pressures are
to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine
problems. An engine should NOT be disassem-
bled to determine the cause of low compression
unless some malfunction is present.
(5) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary. Ad-
just gap (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System for gap
adjustment and torque).
(6) Test resistance of spark plug cables (refer to
Group 8D, Ignition System).
(7) Inspect the primary wire. Test coil output volt-
age, primary and secondary resistance. Replace parts
as necessary (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System and
make necessary adjustment).
(8) Perform a combustion analysis.
(9) Test fuel pump for pressure (refer to Group 14,
Fuel System for the proper specifications).
(10) Inspect air filter element (refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper proce-
dure).
(11) Inspect crankcase ventilation system (refer to
Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper
procedure).
(12) For emission controls refer to Group 25, Emis-
sion Controls System for service procedures.
(13) Inspect and adjust accessory belt drives (refer
to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper adjust-
ments).
(14) Road test vehicle as a final test.
HONING CYLINDER BORES
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels un-
der the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abra-
sive materials from entering the crankshaft area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823 equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20-60 strokes, de-
pending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to
provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil
C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from ma-
jor oil distributors.
9 - 2 ENGINESJ

CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage, or equivalent. The
following is the recommended procedures for the use
of Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire width
of the bearing cap shell (Fig. 2). Position the Plastigage
approximately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off center and away
from the oil holes. In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspect area.
(3) The crankshaft must be turned until the connect-
ing rod to be checked starts moving toward the top of
the engine. Only then should the rod cap with Plasti-
gage in place be assembled. Tighten the rod cap nut to
45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.DO NOT rotate the crank-
shaft or the Plastigage may be smeared, giving in-
accurate results.
(4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage with the scale provided on
the package (Fig. 3). Plastigage generally comes in 2
scales (one scale is in inches and the other is a met-
ric scale). Locate the band closest to the same width.
This band shows the amount of clearance. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken
(refer to Engine Specifications).
(5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076 mm (0.001-0.003 inch) range
is usually the most appropriate for checking engine
bearing clearances.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole.
This brings the hole back to its original thread
size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
SERVICE ENGINE ASSEMBLY (SHORT BLOCK)
A service replacement engine assembly (short
block) may be installed whenever the original cylin-
der block is defective or damaged beyond repair. It
consists of the cylinder block, crankshaft, piston and
rod assemblies. If needed, the camshaft must be pro-
cured separately and installed before the engine is
installed in the vehicle.
A short block is identified with the letter ``S'' stamped
on the same machined surface where the build date
code is stamped for complete engine assemblies.
Installation includes the transfer of components
from the defective or damaged original engine. Fol-
low the appropriate procedures for cleaning, inspec-
tion and torque tightening.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and in-
take manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in
the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (refer to Group 0, Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance).
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
Fig. 3 Clearance Measurement
9 - 4 ENGINESJ

filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is de-
tected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly
turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft
seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crank-
shaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be
polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft ro-
tation, no further inspection can be done until disas-
sembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechanical,
under the Oil Leak row for components inspections
on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper re-
placement procedures.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to
Oil Pressure in Engine Specifications for the proper
pressures.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST DIAGNOSIS
JENGINES 9 - 7