1995 FIAT PUNTO cap

9*8 Braking system
6 Carefully examine the Inside of tho drum. Light scoring of the friction surface is normal, but if heavy scoring Is found, the drum must be renewed. 7 It is usual to find a lip on the dmm's inboard edge which consists of a mixture of rust and brake dust: this should be carefully scraped away, to leave a smooth surface which can be polished with fine (120 to 150-grade) emery paper. If, however, the tip is due to the friction surface being recessed by excessive wear, then the drum must be renewed. 6 If the drum Is thought to be excessively worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be measured at several points using an internal micrometer. Take measurements In pairs, the second at right-angles to the first, and compare the two, to check for signs of ovality. Provided that it does not enlarge the dium to beyond the specified maximum diameter, it may be possible to have the drum refinished by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible, Ihe drums on both sides must be renewed. Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTH drums must be refinished. to maintain a consistent Internal diameter on both sides.
Refitting 9 II a new brake drum is to be Installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating thai may have been applied to its internal fnction surfaces. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the sedated strut wheel, lo allow Ihe drum lo poss over the brake shoes • see Section S for details. 10 II tho original dfum is being refitted, align the marks made on the drum and hub before removal, then lit the drum over the hub. Refit the locating studs and tighten them to the specified torque. 11 Depress the footbrake repeatedly to expand the brake shoes against the drum, and ensure that normal pedal pressure Is restored. 12 Check and if necessary adjust the handbrake cable as described In Section 9. 13 Refit tho roadwheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
7 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting jS

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at tho beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers ot handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the brake drum fsee Section 6). 2 Remove the brake shoes (see Section 5). 3 To minimise fluid loss during the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten it down onto a piece of polythene, lo obtain an airtight seal.
the hydraulic pipe from the rear of the wheel cylinder 4 Clean the brake backplate around Ihe wheel cylinder mounting boits and the hydraulic pipe union, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect Ihe hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Cover the open ends of the pipe and the master cylinder to prevent dirt ingress, 5 Remove the securing bolts, then withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate (soe Illustration).
Overhaul Note: Before commencing woric, ensure that the appropriate wheel cylinder overhaul kit is obtained. 6 Clean tho assembly thoroughly, using only methylated spirit or clean brake fluid, 7 Peel off both rubber dust covers, then use paint or similar to mark one ot the pistons so that the pistons are not interchanged on reassembly. 8 Withdraw both pistons and tho spring. 9 Discard the rubber piston cups and the dust covers. These components should be renewed as a matter of course, and are available 3s part of an overhaul kit, which also Includes the bleed nipple dust cap. 10 Check the condition of the cylinder bore and the pistons - the surfaces must be perfect and free from scratches, scoring and corrosion, It is advisable to renew the complete wheel cylinder if there is any doubt as to the condition ot the cylinder bore or pistons. 11 Ensure thai all components are clean and dry. The pistons, spring and cups should be
8.4 Location of brake tight switch-LHD model shown
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate fitted wet, using hydraulic fluid as a lubricant • soak them in clean fluid before installation. 12 Fit the cups to the pistons, ensuring that they are the correct way round. Use only your fingers (no tools) to manipulate the cups into position. 13 Fit the first piston to the cylinder, taking care not to distort the cup. If the original pistons are being re-used, ihe marks
made on
dismantling should be used to ensure that the pistons are refitted to their original bores, 14 Refit the spring and the second pfston. 15 Apply a smear of rubber grease to Ihe exposed end of each piston and to the dust cover sealing lips, then fit Ihe dust covers to each end of the wheel cylinder.
Refitting 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearirg in mind the following points: a) Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. b) Refit the brake shoes as desenbod
In
Section 5. and refit the brake drum
as
described in Section 6. c) Before refitting the roadwheel
and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, remove the polythene from the fluid reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic
system
as described in Section f
1.
Note that if
nc
other part of the system has been disturbed, it should only bo necessary
to
bleed the relevant rear circuit.
8 Stop-light switch • & adjustment, removal J? and refitting
Adjustment 1 The switch plunger operates on a ratchet 2 If adjustment Is required, pull the plunge fully out - (he 9witch then sell-adjusts as the brake pedal Is applied and released.
Removal 3 Ensure that the ignition Is switched to OfF. 4 For Improved access, remove the driver's side lower facia panel, as described in Chapter 11 (see Illustration). 5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.

9*10 Braking system
10.6 Disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable (arrowed) from the draw bar 6 Working inside ihe vehicle, remove Ihe screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim panel (refer to Section 9 for more detail). At the base of the handbrake lever, full/ slacken off the handbrake adjusting screw and locknut, to remove oil tension from the cable draw bar, then disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable from the cable draw bar (see illustration) 7 Release the cable grommet from tho floor-pan, then withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
Refitting 8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the cables are securely fastened In the clips on the floorpan beetshield and lower suspension a/m. b) On completion, check the handbrake adiustment, as described in Section 9.
11 Hydraulic system -bleeding

A


Warning: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off immediately and thoroughly In the case ot skin contact, and seek immediate medical advice if any fluid is swallowed, or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable, and may ignite when allowed into contact with hot components. When servicing any hydraulic system, it Is safest to assume that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take precautions
11.17 Bleeding a rear brake line
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol that Is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is spilt, It should be washed off immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it Is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) • old fluid may be contaminated and unfit tor further use. Whan topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use the recommended type, and ensure that It comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.
General 1 The correct operation of any hydraulic system is only possible after removing all air from the components and circuit; and this Is achieved by bleeding the syslem. 2 During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the recommended type; never re-use fluid that has already been bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before starting work. 3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid being already in the system, the brake com-ponents and circuit must be Flushed completely with uncontamlnated, correct fluid, and new seals should be fitted throughout the system. 4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the system, or air has ontered because of a leak, ensure that the fault is cured before proceeding further. 5 Park Ihe vehicle on level ground, switch off the engine and select first or reverse gear (or P), then chock the wheels and release the handbrake. 6 Cheek that all pipes and hoses are secure, unions tight and bleed screws closed. Remove Ihe dust caps (whore applicable), and clean any dirt from around the bleed screws. 7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap, and top Ihe master cylinder reservoir up to the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely. Rememoer to maintain the fluid level at least above the MIN level line throughout the procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further air entering the syslem. 8 There are a number of one-man. do-It-yourself brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described in detail below. 9 If a kit Is to be used, prepare the vehicle as described previously, and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions, as Ihe procedure may vary slightly according to the type being used; generally, they are as outlined below in the relevant sub-section. 10 Whichever method is used, the same sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure Ihe removal of all air from the system.
Bleeding sequence 11 If Ihe system has been only
partial!?
disconnected, and suitable precautions wwe taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be necessary to bteod only that part of the system (le the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system Is to be bled, then It should be done working in the following sequence: a) Left-hand rear wheel b) Right-hand front wheel. c) Right-hand rear wheel. d) Left-hand front wheel. Note: When bleeding the rear brakes
on a
vehicle ritled with load proportioning valves: i the rear of the vehicle has been jacked
up to
allow access to ihe brake wheel cylinder,
tha
rear suspension must be compressed
(eg
raising the beam axle with a trolley
jack) so
that the load proportioning valves
remain open
throughout the bleeding process.
Bleeding -basic (two~man) method 13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a light fit over the bleed screw, end a ring spanner lo
Rt
the screw. The help of an assistant will also tie required. 14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw In the sequence if not already done. Fit a suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place the other end of Ihe tube In the jar. and
pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube. 15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
MIN
level line throughout the procedure. 16 Have the assistant fully depress the brefce pedal several times to build up pressure, then maintain it on the final downstroke. 17 While pedal pressure is maintained, unscrew ihe bleed screw (approximately one turn) and allow the compressed fluid and orto flow into the
Jar,
The assistant should maintah pedal pressure, following the pedal down to the floor if necessary, and should not rrtaase Ihe pedal until instructed to do so. When ihe flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have the assistant retease the pedal sfowty, and recheck the reservoir fluid level (see Illustration). 18 Repeat Ihe steps given in paragraphs 16 end 17 until the fluid emerging from the bled screw is free from air bubbles. If Ihe master cylinder has been drained and refilled,
and
at Is being bled from the first screw In the sequence, allow approximately five seconds between cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill. 19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighter, the bleed screw securely, remove Ihe tube arc spanner, and refit the dust cap (where applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed sew. 20 Repeat the procedure on tho remaining screws In the sequence, until ail air is removed from the system, and the brake pedal feels firm again.

Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK

A


Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut

9*12 Braking system
master cylinder mounting nuts, and tighten them securely. 10 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions, then refit them to the correct master cylinder ports, as noted before removal, and lighten the union nuts securely. 11 Refill tha master cylinder reservoir with new fluid, and bleed the complete hydraulic system as described In Section 11. 12 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly.
13 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - % renewal S§

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, 1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed, minimise fluid loss by first removing the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten the cap down onto a piece of polythene to obtain
an airtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses can be sealed, If required, using a proprietary brake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unions can be plugged (if care Is taken not to allow dirt into the system) or capped immediately they are disconnected. Place a wad of rag under any union that is to be disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid-2 If a flexible hose Is to be disconnected, unscrew the brake pipe union nut before removing the spring clip which seeurea the hose to its mounting bracket. 3 To unscrew the union nuts, ll is preferable lo obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct size; these are available from most large molor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting open-ended spanner will be required, though if the nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a case, a self-locking wrench is often the only way to unscrew a stubborn union, but It follows that Ihe pipe and the damaged nuts must be renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union and surrounding area before disconnecting it If disconnecting a compo-
nent with more than one union, make a carefJ note of the connections before disturbing
any
of them. 4 If a brake pipe Is to be renewed, it can b« obtained, cut to length and with the union nuts and end flares in place, from Fiat dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend It to shape, following the line of the original, baton fitting It to the vehicle. Alternatively, most motor accessory shops can make up bra Ha pipes from kits, bul this requires very carefii measurement of the original, to ensure (hat the replacement is of the correct length. Tha safest answer is usually to take the original lo the shop as a pattern. 5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union nuts. It is not necessary to exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint. 6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses an correctly routed, with no kinks, and that they are secured in the clips or brackets provided. After fitting, remove the polythene from lbs reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system
88
described In Section 11. Wash off any split fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37

Suspension and steering 10*4
3.2 Release the brake fluid line (and where applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from the strut
3 Front suspension strut -removal, overhaul and refitting *

A


Warning: If renewing the Strut damper during overhaul both the left and right hand dampers should be renewed as a pair, to preserve the handling characteristics of the vehicle.
Removal 1 Chock the resr wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the fronl of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant roadwheel. 2 Release the brake fluid line (and wnere
3.3a Remove the two bolts (arrowed)...
applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from Ihe bracket on the base of the strut (see illustration). 3 Remove the two nuts from Ihe bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub carrier, noting that the nuls fit on the rear side of the strut (see illustrations). Withdraw the bolts, and support the hub carrier. Discard the bolts and nuts • new ones should be used on refitting. 4 Have an assistant support the strut from underneath the wheel arch then, working In the engine compartment, unscrew the two bolts and release the two stud clips that secure the strut upper mounting plate to the suspension turret. Do not unscrew the centre damper rod nut yet. Release the lower end ol the strut from the hub carrier, then withdraw the assembly from under the wheel arch.
3.7 Fully unsorew and remove tho damper rod top nut 3.3a Withdraw the washer.
3.3b ... and detach the lower end of the strut from the hub carrier
Overhaul Note: Suitable coil spring compressor fools will be required for this operation, and a
new
damper rod top nut must be used on reassembly. 5 Clamp Ihe lower end of Ihe strut in a vice fitted with jaw protectors - take care to avois deforming the mounting bracket at the lower end of the strut. Remove the protective plastic cap from the top of the strut. 6 Fit suitable spring compressors to the coil spring, and compress Ihe spring sutllciently to enable the upper spring seat to be turned by nand.

A


Warning: Ensure that the coil spring Is compressed sufficiently to remove all the tension from
tha
upper spring seat, before attempting to remove the damper rod nut. 7 Fully unscrew and remove the damper rod top nut. Countorhofd the domper rod. using
a
suitable Allen key or hex bit. as tho nut * unscrewed • do not allow the rod to rotate inside the damper (see Illustration). Discard the nut • a new one must be used on reassembly. 8 Withdraw tho washer, bush, upper mounting plate and upper spring seat • make a careful note of the order of assembly (see illustrations). 9 Withdraw the spring, complete with the compressors, thon v/ithdraw the dust cover, bump rubber and Ihe lower spring seat rubber (where fitted) (see illustrations).

Suspension and steering 10*5
3,9s Withdraw the coll spring, complete with the compressors ... 3.9b ... then withdraw the dust cover and bump rubber 3.9c Fully dismantled strut
10 With the strut assembly now dismantled, examine all the components tor wear, damage or deformation. Check the rubber com-ponents for deterioration. Renew any of the components as necessary. 11 Examine tho damper for signs of fluid teakage. Check the damper rod for signs of pitting along its entire length, and check the stjul body for signs of damage. White holding fc
in an
upright position, test the operation of
Ihe
stmt by moving Ihe damper rod through a fut stroke, and then through short strokes of
SO
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance Id should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any wsible sign of wear or damage to the strut, renewal is necessary. Note that the damper cannot be renewed independently, and if leakage, damage or corrosion Is evident, the complete strut/damper assembly must be renewed {in which case, the spring, upper mounting components, bushes, and associated components can be transferred to
Ihe
new strut). 12 If any doubt exists about the condition of
Ihe
coil spring, carefully remove the spring compressors, and check the spring for distortion and signs of cracking. Renew the spring if it is damaged or distorted, or if there isany doubt about its condition. a Warning: Coil springs are /j\ classified by their height when '
11
• undor load • this Is indicatod by a
coloured
paint marking on the side of the
coll windings (either green or yellow). All coll springs fitted to tho vehicle must be of the same classification to ensure the correct ride height. 13 Clamp the strut body in a vice, as dunng dismantling, then refit the lower spring seat rubber (where fitted), dust cover and bump rubber. 14 Ensure that the coil spring is compressed sufficiently to enable the upper mounting components to be fitted, then fit the spring over the damper rod. ensuring that the lower end of the spring is correctly located In the recess on the lower spring seat (soe illustration). 15 Refit the upper spring seat and upper mounting plate ensuring that the top end of
the spring is correctly located on the upper spring seat. Note that when the strut is reassembled, the orientation marking on the upper rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the metal section of the upper mounting plate as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting (see illustration). 10 Fit the new damper rod top nut together with its washer and bush, then tighten the nut to the specified torque, counterholding the damper rod in a manner similar to that used during dismantling. Note that a suitable crows-foot adapter will be required to tighten the damper rod top nut to the specified torque. 17 Remove the spring compressors. Where applicable, refit the protective plastic cap over the damper rod top nut.
Refitting 18 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position under the wheel arch, passing the locating stud clip through the holes in the body turret. Note that when the strut is refitted, the orientation marking on the upper mounting plate rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the vehicle as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting • refer to illustration 3.15. Fit the upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 19 Engage Ihe lower end of the strut with the
3.14 Ensure that the lower end of the spring is correctly located in the recess (arrowed) on the lower spring seat
3.15 Correct positioning of the suspension strut upper mounting components A Left hand mounting for vehicles with manual steering B Left hand mounting tor vehicles with power-assisted steering C To front of vehicle O Orientation marking 3.18 Fit the strut upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque

Suspension and steering
10*195

5 Front suspension >,•> tower arm balljoint -renewal ^
The balljoint is integral with the suspension ower arm (see Illustration). If the balljoint is worn or damaged, the complete lower arm oust be renewed as described In Section 4.
6 Front suspension ^ anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting s^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands •we Jacking and vehicle support). If required, wove the relevant roadwheels. 2 Refer to the Chapter 4D and unbolt the hnt section of the exhaust pipe. 3 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on ether side of the vehicle. Similarly, unscrew
ine
bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings lo the suspension sub-frame (refer to the Derations in Section 4). 4 lower the anti-roll bar away from the underside of the vehicle. 5 Inspect the rubber bushes for cracks or ietertoratlon, If renewal Is necessary, slide the dd bushes from the bar, and fit the now items, using soapy water as a lubricant. Do rot apply grease or oil as this will attack the •ifiber. 9 Check the anti-roll bar for signs of damage, war or serious corrosion. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing In
mnd
the following points: sj
D'rw
up the holes af the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension iov/erarm. til
Tighten
all fixings to the specified torque, but do not do this until the vehicle is resting on its roadwheels, and the suspension has been settled, or damage to the bushes may result.
7.5 Slacken and remove the rear hub nut
5.1 Front suspension lower arm balljoint
7 Rear hub bearings -renewal
Note: 77ie bearing will be destroyed during the removal operation, and a new rear hub/ bearing assembly must be used on refitting -the old hub cannot be re-used. A new rear hub nut must be used on refitting. 1 The rear hub bearings are integral with the hubs themselves, and cannot be renewed separately, tf the bearings require renewal, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as follows. 2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle slands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 3 Remove the brake drum as described In Chapter 9. Do not depress the brake pedal whilst the brake drum is removed. 4 Prise the dust cap from the hub. using a mallet and punch. 5 Slacken and remove the hub nut and recover the washer/spacers (see illustration). Caution: The nut Is tightened to a very high torque. Use a long extension bar to remove the nut and ensure that you have access to torque wrench capable of tightening the new nut to the speclfiod torque setting, before removing the existing nut 6 Withdraw Ihe hub and bearing assembly from the stub axle, and recover the inner washer. Discard the hub nut - a new one must be used on refitting.
1
8.3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining bolt (arrowed)
7 Thoroughly clean tho stub axle, then slide the inner washer and new hub assembly into position. 8 Fit the outer washer, then thread a new hub nut onto the end of the stub axle by hand - do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 9 Refit the brake drum (Chapter 9). 10 Tighten the hub nut to the specified torque, then check that the hub spins smoothly and freely. Carefully tap the dust cap into position over the nut. 11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the road-wheel bolts to the specified torque.
8 Rear suspension components -removal, overhaul and refitting ^
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.
Damper
Removal 2 Using a trolley jack positioned under the trailing arm, raise the trailing arm to take the strain from the damper. 3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining boll (see Illustration). 4 Lower the jack and allow the damper to separate from the trailing arm. Take care to avoid displacing the coil spring. 5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (see illustration). 6 Lower the damper away from the suspension subframe. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the damper upper and lower retaining bolts to the specified torque, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the road-wheels • this prevents the damper bushes from being strained.
Coil spring
Removal 8 With reference to the previous sub-Section.
8.5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (arrowed)