1995 FIAT PUNTO cap

ib.6 Maintenance procedures - diesel models
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal it-
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the OlY owner. As engine oil ages, if becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads lo premature engine wear. 2 Befote starting this procedure, gather ail the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any splits. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this woik. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lilt, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands {see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method Is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or If it is at an angle, that Ihe drain plug is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using a 12 mm Allen key (see Illustration) Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes Hint), 4 Allow some time for the oid oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil (tow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug wilh a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit the plug. Tighten the ptug securely. 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container Into position under the oil filter, which Is located on the front right-hand side of the engine. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way (see illustrations).
3.3 Using a 12 mm Allen key to loosen the engine oil drain plug
Empty the oil In (he old filter Into Ihe container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old lilter to make sure thai the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully removo it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools (see Illustration), 10 Remove Ihe old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower Ihe vehicle to the ground (If applicable). 11 Remove tho dipstick, then unscrew (he oil liiler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using Ihe correct grade and typo of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a smalt quantity at a time until Ihe level Is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a tew minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes oul when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds up.
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump while unscrewing It by hand the lost couple of turns. As the plug releases, move It away sharpty so that the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs Into the container, not up your sieeve.
13 Switoh off the engine, and wait a few minutes for Ihe oil to settle in the sump once mora. With the new oil circulated and the fitter completely full, recheck the level on Ihe dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose ot the used engine oil safely, wilh reference lo General repair pioceduros In Ihe reference Sections of this manual.
4 Fuel filter water draining ^
1 A water drain screw is provided at the base of the fuel filter. 2 Position a suitable container under ihe fuel filter, Loosen Ihe bleed screw on the lop ol the filter, and open the drain screw at the base of tne filter by turning it anti-clockwise Allow fuel and water to drain until fuel, free from water, emerges from tho drain screw outlet. Close tne drain and bleed screws and tighten them securely 3 Dispose of the drained fuel safely. 4 Start tho onglno. II difficulty is experienced, Weed the fuel system (see Chapter 4C).
3.7a Using an oil fitter removal chain strap 3.7b Removing the oil filter 3.9 Now oil filter tightened by hand

Maintenance procedures - diesel models ib.?
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
5 Brake warning lamp operation check 1
1 With Ihe ignition Key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake
fluid
reservoir cap (see illustration). I
As
the button is pressed, the brake warning
lamp
on the instrument panel should light. 3 If Ihe lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity taster, then refer to Chapter t2, Section 5,
and
check the Instrument panel bulb.
6 Front brake pad check ^
I
1 firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on arie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of
the
friction material of the brake pads on both brakes. This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Ctefc the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper
|see
lustration), 3
For a
comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also bo checked, and the condition of the brake disc iteeil can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material Is worn to the specified thickness or less, all lour pads must to renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
7 Underbody sealant check f^
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). Alternatively position the car over
an
Inspection pit. 2 Check the complete underbody, wheel housings and side sills for corrosion and/or damage to the underbody sealant. If evident,
rapairi

8
Hose
and fluid leak check
1 Visually inspect the engine Joint faces. g3skets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
5.1 Depress tho button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a teak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters In this manual, 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure thai all cable-ties or securing clips are In place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems In the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better If the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses. )olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak, Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage, The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully Inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.
6.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hote on the front of the caliper
7 With the vehicle raised, check along the length of the underside for leaks from the metal brake lines, caused by damage or corrosion. 8 At each front brake caliper, check the area around the brake pipe unions and the bleed nipples for hydraulic fluid leakage, 9 Remove the front roadwheels and chock for fluid leakage from the area around the caliper piston seal. Check that the tip of the piston dust seal is correctly located in its groove. If it has been displaced, the brake caliper should be removed and overhauled as described in Chapter 9, to check for internal dirt Ingress or corrosion. 10 Check the area surrounding the master cylinder and vacuum servo unit for signs of corrosion, Insecurity or hydraulic fluid leakage. Examine the vacuum hose leading to the servo unit for signs of damage or chafing. 11 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and Inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 12 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

ib-8 Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
10.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
9 Exhaust system check
1 With the engine cold {at least an hour after tho vehicle has been driven), check ihe complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system Is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe oorrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are In good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of tho system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity ot the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be Iracod to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or
suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
10 Driveshaft gaiter check
I
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto lull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition ol the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs ot cracking, splits or detenoration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see illustration). If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8. Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in Ihe driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.
11 Idle speed check and adjustment
1 The usual type of tachometer (rev counter), which works from ignition system pulses, cannot be used on diesel engines. A
diagnostic socket is provided for the use of Flat test equipment, but this will not normally be available to the home mechanic. If it Is not felt that adjusting the Idle speed by ear 19 satisfactory, It will be necessary to purchase or hire an appropriate tachometer, or else leave tho task to a Fiat dealer or other suitably equipped specialist, 2 Before making adjustments, warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Make sure that the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted (see Chapter 4C). 3 The adjustment must be made with all electrical components (Including the cooling fan) switched off. It the fan comes on dunng the adjustment, wait until it switches off automatically before proceeding. 4 The idle adjustment screw Is located on the top of the fuel injection pump (see illustration). To adjust the idie speed loosen the locknut and turn the screw as required then tighten the locknut. 5 On completion switch off the engine.
12 Fuel filter renewal i
1 The fuel filter is located on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. An electrically-operated heater is located between the filter and tlw housing, 2 Position a suitable container under the fuel filler. Loosen tho bleed screw on the top of the filter, then disconnect the wiring from Ihe water sensor and loosen the water drain screw on the bottom of the filter. Allow the fuel to drain completely (see illustration). 3 Tighten the drain and bleed screws, then Use an oii niter strep to loosen the fuel filter {see illustration).
12.2 Loosening the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter
11.4 fdie speed adjustment 1 Locknut 2 Adjustment screw

Maintenance procedures - diesel models 1B.13
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or 6 years
Refer to Chapter 40. A full chock of the 26 Emissions control systems emissions control systems must be made by a check Fiat dealer.
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km)
26 Manual transmission ,v->> oil renewal K
1 Pak the vehicle on a level surface, if possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filer/level and drain plugs are accessed from
under the
engine compartment, ff necessary tack up Ihe vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). 2
Wipe
clean the area around the filler/! a vol and vain plugs, which are situated on the front and bottom of the transmission (see Illustration}.
3 Using an Allen key, unscrew the fillor/level plug and clean it. 4 Position a suitable container beneath the transmission, then use the Allen key to unscrew the drain plug. Allow the oil to completely dram. 5 Wipe clean the drain plug then refit and tighten It. 6 Fill the transmission with the correct grade and quantity of oil, referring to Section 22 when checking the level. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug. 7 Where applicable lower the vehicle to the ground. 26.2 Transmission drain plug location (viewed from undor tho vohlcle)
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

27
Coolant renewal St I
Coo//ng system draining

A


Warning: Wait until the engine is coid before starting this procedure. Do not allow anti-fnue to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle.
Rinse
off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around fh an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and
pets are attracted by Its sweet smell,
bat
antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve the
pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wail until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to turn the cap until it can be removed. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub (see Illustration), If the hose joint has not been disturbed for some time, it will be necessary to gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the coolant to drain into the container. 3 Certain models are fitted with cooling system bleed plugs, which should be opened to aid the draining process and help prevent airlocks. These are located on the heator Inlet hose and on the top right hand edge of the radiator (see Illustrations), ff the coolant has
been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided It is clean and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 4 Once all the coolant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position with the retaining clip.
Cooling system flushing 5 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then In time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing tho system clean. 6 The radiator should be (lushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contam-ination.
27.2 Disconnecting the radiator bottom hose to drain the coolant 27.3a Location of cooling system bleed plugs (arrowed) 27.3b Bleed screw located on the top right hand edge of the radiator

ib.14 Every 2 years - diesel models
Radiator flushing 7 To flush the radiator disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of dean water through the radiator, and continue Hushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 9 II after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cooling system cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer's instructions are followed carefully. If Ihe contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.
Engine flushing 10 To flush tho engine, remove the thermostat as described in Chapter 3. 11 With the bottom hose disconnected, direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue Hushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 12 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hose with reference to Chapter 3.
Cooling system filling 13 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub* Section). 14 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant Into Ihe expansion tank to prevent airlocks from forming. Ensure that all bleed plugs/screws are open. 15 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of litres of water, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top* up with more water. 18 Once ihe level in the expansion tank starts to rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottom hoses to help expel any trapped air in
the system. Once all the air is expelled, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark and refit the expansion tank cap. Close all bleed plugs. 17 Start Ihe engine and run il until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine and allow It to cool. 18 Check for leaks, particularly around disturbed components. Check the coolant level In the expansion tank, and top-up if necessary. Note that the system must be cold before an accurate level Is indicated In the expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap Is removed while the engine is still warm, cover the cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly to gradually relieve the system pressure (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system Is released, then continue to turn the cap untH it can be removed.
Antifreeze mixture 19 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion Inhibitors become progressively less effective. 20 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The quantity of antifreeze and levels of protection are indicated in the Specifications. 21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be complelely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. 22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the dale installed. Any subsequent topping-up should bs made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. 23 Do not use engine antifreeze In the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.
28 Brake fluid renewal

A


Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyas and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring It. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as It absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can causa a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 1 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described In Chapter 9. except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, using a clean poultry baster or similar before starting, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a section of the circuit. 2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open Ihe first bleed screw in the sequence, and pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir.
ffffTOgf Old hydraulic fluid Is
lifcjllitt*
Invariably much darker In [HINT] colour than the new, making /{easy to distinguish the two.
3 Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid, and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from (he bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to Ihe MAX level line. 4 Work through all the remaining bleed screws In the sequence until new fluid can be seen al all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up 10 above the MIN level al all limes, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation is complete, check thai all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off ail traces of split fluid, and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road,

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Torque wrench settings Nm
IM
ft Camshaft cover 8 6 Camshaft sprocket 70 52 Cylinder head; Stage 1 30 22 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 90° Siege 3 Angle-tighten a further 90B Crankshaft sprocket centre bott 100 74 Engine mounting bolt: M10X1.25 69 44 MB 25 18 Engine mounting nut (M10x 1.25) 60 44 Flywheet/driveplate 44 32 Sump 10 7 Timing belt tensJoner 28 21
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided Into four Parts: A. 8. C and D. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle are described in Part A. SOHC (8-valve) petrol engines, Part B. DOHC (18-valve) petrol engines and Part C, diesel engines. Part 0 covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, 9 and C, the assumption Is made lhat the engine is Installed in the vehicle, with sll ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling Information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified by their capacities. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, is given in the Specifications. The engines covered In this Part of Chapter 2 are water-cooled, single overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder units, with cast Iron cylinder Mocks and aluminium-alloy cylinder heads. All are mounted transversely at the front ot the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine, The cylinder head carries the camshaft which is driven by a toothed timing belt and runs In three bearings. It also houses the inlet and exhaust valves, which are closed by single coil springs, and which run in guides pressed Into the cylinder head. The camshaft actuates the vatves directly via cam followers mounted in the cylinder head. Adjustment of the valve clearances is by means of shims located on top of the followers. The cylinder head contains Integral oitways which supply and lubricate the tappets. The crankshafl Is supported by five main bearings, and endftoat is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted to the upper section of the centre main bearing.
Engine coolant is circulated by 8 pump, driven by the timing belt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from ihe front of the crankshaft. Oil Is drawn from the sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, It is distributed to the cylinder head, where It lubricates the camshaft journals and tappets, and also to the crankcase, where il lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big and smell-ends, gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. On 1242 cc engines, oil jets are fitted lo the base of each cylinder bore -these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to Improve cooling.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car a) Compression pressure - testing b) Auxiliary drivebelt - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 1A) c) Vatve clearances - checking and adjustment (refer to Chapter I A) d) Camshaft cover - removal and refitting e) Timing belt and covens - removal and refitting f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' h) Camshaft and cam followers • removal and refitting' t) Camshaft oil seal - renews/ j) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal k) Flywheel/dnvepfate • removal, inspection and refitting l) Engine mountings - inspection and renewal m)Sump - removal and refitting n) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly
•
removai. inspection and refitting *Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed In Chapter SO, with details of camshaft and cam follower removal. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described In Chapter 2D.
2 Location of
TDC
on % No
1
cylinder
General Information 1 The camshaft Is driven by the crankshaft, by means of sprockets and a timing belt. Both sprockets rotate In phase with each other and this provides the correct valve timing as the engine rotates. When (he liming belt is removed during servioing or repair, it Is possible for the camshaft and crankshaft to rotate Independently of each other and the correct valve timing Is then lost. 2 The design of the engines covered In this Chapter are such lhat potentially damaging piston-to-valve contact may occur if the camshaft is rotated when any of the pistons are stationary at, or near, the top of their stroke. 3 For this reason it is important lhat Ihe correct phasing between the camshaft and crankshaft is preserved whilst the timing belt Is off the engine. This is achieved by setting the engine In a reference position (known as Top Dead Centre or TDC) before the timing belt Is removed and then preventing the camshaft and crankshaft from rotating until the belt is refitted. Similarly, if ths engine has been dismantled for overhaul, the engine can be set to TOC during reassembly to ensure that Ihe correct shaft phasing is restored. 4 TDC is the highest point In the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC at Ihe end of the compression stroke and again at the end of the exhaust stroke. However, for the purpose of timing the ongine. TDC refers to the position of No 1 piston at the end of Its compression stroke. On ail engines In this manual, No 1 piston (and cylinder) Is at the timing belt end of the engine. 5 The camshaft sprocket Is equipped with a marking which, when aligned with a reference marking on the cylinder head, indicates that the camshaft is correctly positioned for cyl-inder No 1 al TDC on its compression stroke.

2B»1
Chapter 2 Part B:
DOHC (16-valve) petrol
engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Auxiliary drlvebelts - removal and refitting See Chapter 1A Camshaft oil seal - renewal 6 Camshafts and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting .. 9 Crankshaft oil seals • renewal 7 Cylinder compression test 3 Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul See Chapter 2D Cylinder head • removal and refitting 10 Cylinder head extension • removal and refitting 8 Engine assembly/Valve timing holes - general information and usage 2
Engine mountings - inspection and renewal 12 Engine oil and filter - renewal See Chapter 1A Engine oil level - check See Weekly checks Flywheel - removal, Inspection and refitting 11 General Information 1 Oil pump and pick-up tube - removal, inspection and refitting 14 Sump - removal and refitting 13 Timing belt and covers - removal and refitting 4 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets • removal and refitting 5
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
sitable
for
J; Fairly
easy,
suitable Fairtydifflcutt, ^
Difficult,
aitabtefcr Very
difficult,
^ nwice
wim
(ttls for beginner with £
suitable
for competent KYmechanic ^ experienced DIY > suitable
for
expert DIY« experience
some
experience £
suitable
for competent KYmechanic ^ mechanic > or professional ^
Specifications
General Engine code* 176.09.000 •Note: See Vehicle Identification for the location of code marking on the engine. Bore 70.8 mm Stroke 78.86 mm Capacity 1242 cc Compression ratio 10.2:1 Firing order 1-3-4-2 No
1
cylinder location Timing belt end of engine Timing belt tension See text
Camshaft Orlve Toothed belt
No
of bearings 3 Camshaft bearing journal diameters: Ho
1
bearing 35.000 to 35.015 mm
Mo
2 bearing 48.000 to 48.015 mm No 3 bearing 49.000 to 49.015 mm Camshaft bearing Journal running clearance 0.030 to 0.070 mm Camshaft endfloat 0.15 to 0.34 mm
Cylinder head extension Camshaft bearing diamelers: No
1
bearing 35.045 to 35.070 mm No 2 bearing 48,045 to 48.070 mm No 3 bearing 49.045 to 49.070 mm
Cam
follower (tappet) type Hydraulic
Cam
follower (tappet) diameter 28.353 to 28.370 mm
Cam
follower (tappet) bore diameter in cylinder head extension 28.400 to 28.421 mm
Cam
follower (tappet) running clearance 0.046 to
0.051
mm

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Lubrication system Oil pump type By-rotor driven from front of crankshaft Outer rotor-io-houslng clearance 0.100 to 0.210 mm Axial clearance 0.025 to 0.070 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm itrf ft Camshaft driven gears 120 89 Camshaft sprocket 120 89 Crankshaft sprocket centre bolt: Stage
1
20 15 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90® Cylinder head: Stage
1
30 22 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90" Stage 3 Angle-tighten a further 90° Cylinder head extension to cylinder head 15 11 Engine mounting bolt: M10
x
1.25 59 44 M8 25 18 Engine mounting nut (MlOx 1.25) 60 44 Flywheel 44 32 Timing belt tensioner 25 18 Sump 10 7
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided into four Parts; A, B. C and O. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine hi the vehicle are described in Part A. SOHC (8-valve) petrol engines. Part B, DOHC (16-valve) petrol engines and Pari C, dlesei engines. Part D covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, B and C, the assumption Is made that the engine is Installed In the vehicle, with all ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified by their capacities. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, Is given in the Specifications. The engine covered in this Part of Chapter 2 is a water-cooled, double overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder unit, with cast iron cylinder block and aluminium-alloy cylinder head. The unit is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine. The cylinder head houses the eight inlet and eight exhaust valves, which are closed by single coil springs, and which run in guides pressed Into the cylinder head. The two camshafts are housed in 8 cylinder head extension which is bolted to the top of the cylinder head. The exhaust camshaft is driven by a toothed timing belt and In turn drives the inlet camshaft via a pair of gears located at the left-hand end of the cylinder head extension.
The camshafts actuate the valves directly via self-adjusting hydraulic cam followers mounted in the cylinder head extension. The crankshaft is supported by five main bearings, and endfioat is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted to (he upper section of the centre main bearing. Engine coolanl is circulated by a pump, driven by the timing belt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from the front of the crankshaft. Oil is drawn from Ihe sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, It is distributed to the cylinder head and cylinder head extension, where it lubricates the camshaft journals and cam followers, and also to the crankcase, where it lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big and small-ends. gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. Oil Jets are fitted to the base of each cylinder bore - these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to improve cooling.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car: a) Auxiliary drivebett - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 1A) b) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly -removal, Inspection and refitting c) Timing belt and covers • removal and refitting d) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting e) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' f) Cylinder hoad extension - removal and refitting g) Camshaft and cam followers - removal and refitting h) Camshaft oil seal - renewal i) Crankshaft oil seals • renewal
f) Flywheel - removal, inspection and
refitting
k) Engine mountings - Inspection and
renews'
f) Sump • removal and refitting 'Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed In Chapter 2D. Note 1: It is possible to remove the
pistons
and connecting rods (after removing (to cylinder head and sump) without removing
tt*»
engine. However, this Is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on fix bench, as described in Chapter 20. Note
2x
Many of the procedures in this Ctopfer entail the use of numerous special tools. Whet possible, suitable alternatives are descnbei with details of their fabrication. Before starring any operations on the engine, read through
tto
entire procedure first to familiarise yourself
wft
the work involved, tools to be obtained mi new parts that may be necessary.
2 Engine assembly/ valve timing holes -genera! information
and
usage
Note: Do not attempt to rotate the angint whilst the camshafts are locked In position,
il
the engine is to be left in this state foratofi$ period of time. It Is a good idea to plect suitable warning notices inside the vehicle, and in the engine compartment. This wfl reduce the possibility of the engine being accidentally cranked on the starter motor, which is likely to cause damage with the locking tools In place. 1 To accurately set the valve timing for ell operations requiring removal and refitting of
the
timing belt, liming holes are drilled in ihe camshafts and cylinder head extension. Ihe holes are used In conjunction with camshaft locking tools and crankshaft positioning
rods w
lock the camshafts when all the pistons me positioned at the mid-point of their stroke. Ths