1995 FIAT PUNTO ignition system

ia.14 Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts.
there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least tsvo minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now. it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal shouto feel considerably harder.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
. transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen 25 Lambda/oxygen sensor ^ key, unscrew the plug and clean it. check \ 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of ^ the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and If the CO level at the exhaust tailpipe is too w,u tr,cWe out when is 'e™oved; this does high or low, Ihe vehicle should be taken to a «©l necessarily Indicate that the level is Fiat dealer so lhat the complete fuel-injection correct. To ensure that a true level is and ignition systems, including the Lamoda/ established, wait until the Initial trickle has oxygen sensor, can be thoroughly checked stopped, then ado oil as necessary until a using the special diagnostic equipment. Once ,r,ckle o1 new oil can be seen emerging. The these have been checked and are known to 'W wl" be correct when ,he flow ceases-us® be free from faults, the fault must be in the good-quality oil of the specified type, catalytic converter, which must be renewed Make sur®that vehicle Is completely level as described In Chapter 4D, Section 6. checking the level and do not overfill, 4 When the level Is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
26 Manual transmission oil level check ^ 27 Evaporative loss system ^ check
1 Park Ihe vehicle on a level surface, If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil ts checked Immediately alter driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on the front of the
Refer to Chapter 40 Section 2 and check that all wiring and hoses are correctly connected to the evaporative toss system components.
28 Automatic transmission fitter and fluid change
1 Take the vehicle on a short run. to warm the transmission up to operating temperature.
Park the car on level ground, then switch off the Ignition. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support]. Note thai, when refilling and checking Uie fluid level, the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, to ensure accuracy. 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a suitable container under the transmission, Unscrew the sump drain plug and allow the fluid to drain for at ieast 10 minutes. Refit and tighten the drain plug when the fluid has completely drained.

A


Warning: The transmission fluid may be very hot and precautions must be taken to avoid scalding.
4 Clean around the transmission sump mating flange. Unboll and remove the sump and remove the gasket. 5 Remove the two bolts and withdraw the transmission fluid filter {see illustration). 6 Fit the new filter, and secure It with the two bolts. 7 Refit the sump using a new gasket, then
_
lower the vehicle to the ground, 8 Fill the transmission with the specified quantity of fluid via Ihe dipstick tube, using a funnel with a fine mesh filter. 9 Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then check the fluid level as described In Weekly checks. 10 Dispose of the old fluid safely.
26.2 Transmission filler/level plug location 28.5 Automatic transmission fluid filter retaining bolts

Maintenance procedures - diesel models ib.?
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
5 Brake warning lamp operation check 1
1 With Ihe ignition Key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake
fluid
reservoir cap (see illustration). I
As
the button is pressed, the brake warning
lamp
on the instrument panel should light. 3 If Ihe lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity taster, then refer to Chapter t2, Section 5,
and
check the Instrument panel bulb.
6 Front brake pad check ^
I
1 firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on arie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of
the
friction material of the brake pads on both brakes. This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Ctefc the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper
|see
lustration), 3
For a
comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also bo checked, and the condition of the brake disc iteeil can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material Is worn to the specified thickness or less, all lour pads must to renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
7 Underbody sealant check f^
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). Alternatively position the car over
an
Inspection pit. 2 Check the complete underbody, wheel housings and side sills for corrosion and/or damage to the underbody sealant. If evident,
rapairi

8
Hose
and fluid leak check
1 Visually inspect the engine Joint faces. g3skets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
5.1 Depress tho button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a teak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters In this manual, 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure thai all cable-ties or securing clips are In place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems In the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better If the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses. )olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak, Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage, The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully Inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.
6.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hote on the front of the caliper
7 With the vehicle raised, check along the length of the underside for leaks from the metal brake lines, caused by damage or corrosion. 8 At each front brake caliper, check the area around the brake pipe unions and the bleed nipples for hydraulic fluid leakage, 9 Remove the front roadwheels and chock for fluid leakage from the area around the caliper piston seal. Check that the tip of the piston dust seal is correctly located in its groove. If it has been displaced, the brake caliper should be removed and overhauled as described in Chapter 9, to check for internal dirt Ingress or corrosion. 10 Check the area surrounding the master cylinder and vacuum servo unit for signs of corrosion, Insecurity or hydraulic fluid leakage. Examine the vacuum hose leading to the servo unit for signs of damage or chafing. 11 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and Inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 12 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

ib-8 Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
10.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
9 Exhaust system check
1 With the engine cold {at least an hour after tho vehicle has been driven), check ihe complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system Is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe oorrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are In good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of tho system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity ot the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be Iracod to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or
suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
10 Driveshaft gaiter check
I
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto lull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition ol the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs ot cracking, splits or detenoration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see illustration). If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8. Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in Ihe driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.
11 Idle speed check and adjustment
1 The usual type of tachometer (rev counter), which works from ignition system pulses, cannot be used on diesel engines. A
diagnostic socket is provided for the use of Flat test equipment, but this will not normally be available to the home mechanic. If it Is not felt that adjusting the Idle speed by ear 19 satisfactory, It will be necessary to purchase or hire an appropriate tachometer, or else leave tho task to a Fiat dealer or other suitably equipped specialist, 2 Before making adjustments, warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Make sure that the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted (see Chapter 4C). 3 The adjustment must be made with all electrical components (Including the cooling fan) switched off. It the fan comes on dunng the adjustment, wait until it switches off automatically before proceeding. 4 The idle adjustment screw Is located on the top of the fuel injection pump (see illustration). To adjust the idie speed loosen the locknut and turn the screw as required then tighten the locknut. 5 On completion switch off the engine.
12 Fuel filter renewal i
1 The fuel filter is located on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. An electrically-operated heater is located between the filter and tlw housing, 2 Position a suitable container under the fuel filler. Loosen tho bleed screw on the top of the filter, then disconnect the wiring from Ihe water sensor and loosen the water drain screw on the bottom of the filter. Allow the fuel to drain completely (see illustration). 3 Tighten the drain and bleed screws, then Use an oii niter strep to loosen the fuel filter {see illustration).
12.2 Loosening the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter
11.4 fdie speed adjustment 1 Locknut 2 Adjustment screw

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
2.11 Unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolts
6 Itae crankshaft sprocket Is also equipped •nth a timing mark - when this is aligned with 3relarence marking on the oil pump cover.
Hie
engine is set with cylinders No 1 and 4 at
TDC.
Note that it is the camshaft positioning that determines whether a cylinder is on its comcression or exhaust stroke.

Location
of TDC on cylinder No 1 7 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Chapter 4A or 4B. Remove the
spark
plug from No 1 cylinder as described in Chapter 1A. 8 Firmly apply the handbrake, then |ack up
the
front of the car and support it securely on iiia stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). 9 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 1A. 10 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Mole the bolt located at the bottom of the
coven
this can be easily overlooked. 11 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see {lustration). 12 Turn Ihe engine in its normal direction of rotation (using a socket or spanner on Ihe crankshaft sprocket centre bolt) until pressure an be felt at No
1
cylinder spark plug hole.
1 flfliyflg^ Remove all four spark plugs; "••"•1 this will make the engine HlNTl easier to turn; refer to Chapter 1A for details.
13 Continue turning the engine until the crahaft sprocket TDC timing mark is aligned with the mark on the cylinder head and the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the mark on the oil pump cover (see ilustrations). 14 The engine is now set at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression.
3 Cylinder compression test t ^
1 When engine performance Is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to tne ignition or fuei systems, a compression isst can provide diagnostic clues as to the
2.13a Camshaft sprocket and cylinder head TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned -shown with timing belt removed engine's condition. II the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fufly charged, and all the spark plugs must be removed (Chapter 1A). The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by dis-connecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition coils. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cyl-inder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred, 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the lest on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any excessive difference indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is very low. carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear Is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a biown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
2.13b Crankshaft sprocket and oil pump cover TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned
than the others and Ihe engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition LT wiring plug.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal and refitting ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special timing belt fens/on measuring toot to correctly set tho timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. It the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known fo be correct. Refer to a Fiat dealer foradvSce.
General information 1 The function of the timing belt is to drive Ihe camshaft and coolant pump. Should the belt slip or break In service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valvo contact will occur, resulting in serious engine damage, 2 The timing belt should be renewed ai the specified intervals (see Chapter 1A), or earlier if it is contaminated with oil. or if it is at all noisy in operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear). 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it Is a wise precaution to check the condition of the coolant pump at the same time (check for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fall.
Removal 4 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front road wheel. 5 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 46. 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) and the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A.
2A

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
6.3 Camshaft cover gasket
not attempt to lover it ofl • instead free >t by working around the cover and lapping it lightly with a soft-faced mallet, 3 Recover the camshaft covor gasket {see Illustration). Inspect the gasket carefully. And renew It If damage or deterioration is evident. 4 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and camshaft cover thoroughly, removing all traces of oil and old gasket - take care to avoid damaging the surfaces as you do this.
Refitting 5 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head and make sure it Is correctly seated. 6 Lower the cover onto the gasket making sure the gasket is not displaced. 7 Insert Ihe mounting bolts and tighten them progressively to the specified torque. 8 Refit the air cleaner assembly and inlet duct with reference to Chapter 4A or 48.
7 Camshaft oil seal • renewal I
1 Remove the timing beft and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5, 2 Using a suitable hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the cylinder head taking care not to damage the surface of (he camshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the cylinder head and the end of the camshaft. To prevent damage to the new olf seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the camshaft and lightly oil it.
4 Dip the new oil seal In oil then locate it over the camshaft making sure that the sealing lips are facing inwards, 5 Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely Into the cylinder head. Remove the adhesive tape. 8 Refit the camshaft sprocket and liming belt wtth reference to Sections 5 and 4.
8 Crankshaft oil seals - ^ renewal S
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The fronl oil seal is located in tho oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean Ihe seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it. 4 Dtp the new oil seal In oil then offer It up 1o the oil pump casing making sure that tho sealing lips are facing Inwards. G Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely into the casing. Remove the adhesive tape. 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Sections S and 4.
Rear {left-hand side) oil seal Note: The following paragraphs describe renewal of the rear oil seal leaving the housing in position. Refer to Chapter 2D for details of removing the housing. 7 Remove the fiywheel/drlveplate as described in Section 10. 8 Using a suitable hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the rear oil seat housing taking care not to damage the surface of Ihe crankshaft. 9 Clean the seating In the nousing and the surface of the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft for burrs which may damage the sealing lip of the new seal, and If necessary use a fine file to remove them,
10 Dip the new seal In clean engine oil and carefully locate it over the crankshaft rear flange making sure that It is the correct way round. 11 Progressively tap the oil seal Into the housing keeping It square to prevent distortion. A block of wood is useful for this purpose. 12 Refit the fiywheet/drlvepiate with refer-ence to Section 10.
9 Cylinder head -removal and refitting I
i Removing the timing belt inner covers 9.12 Removing the cylinder head
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative termine! (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A. then remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 48. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable and controls from the throttle housing. 4 Disconnect the fuel hoses. 5 Disconnect the coolant and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head and inlet manifold. 6 Disconnect all electrical leads noting their location. 7 Remove the Ignition colls with reference to Chapter 58. 8 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4, then unbolt end remove the timing belt inner covers (see Illustration). 9 Unbolt and remove the Inlet manifold, complete with throttle housing. On MPI models unbolt the fuel rail. 10 Unbolt the exhaust manifold from th» cylinder head, and tie it to the front of tto engine compartment. If preferred remove the manifold completely by unbolting Ihe downpipe. Also disconnect iha downpipe bracket. 11 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts hall a turn at a time in the reverse order to thai shown In illustration 9.24b. When the bolts in free, remove them wtth their washers. 12 Lift the cylinder head from Ihe block (see Illustration), if It is stuck tight Insert pieces
of
wood Into the exhaust or Inlet ports, and use them as levers to rock the head off the block. On no account drive levers into the gasket joint, nor attempt to tap the head sideways,
as
It Is located on positioning dowels. 13 Remove and discard the cylinder heed gasket and the manifold gaskets. 14 The cylinder head can be dismantled after removing the camshaft and cam followers as described in Chapter 2D. 15 If the valves have been ground-in, the valve clearances will require adjusting, as described In Chapter 1A. This should be dons before the cylinder head is refitted to the engine.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Preparation for refitting 16 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting
the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take padicular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not afowed to enter the oil and water passages -Ihs is particularly important for the lubrication
system, as
carbon could block the oil supply to
Ihe
engine's components. Using adhesive tape
and
paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in tf« cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering twgap between the pistons and bores, smear
a
iittte grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all
ttie pistons
in the same way. 17 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if (xcassive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the Cytodar head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion.
Refer
to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 18 Check the condition of the cylinder head
MRS.
and particularly their threads, whenever
they are
removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting Ihe assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that
the
bolt holes in the cylinder block have been
mopped
out to clear any oil. 20 Check that the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned with tteir respective cylinder head and oil pump covtr marks as described in Section 2. 21 The new gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit
the
gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly dean.
9.22a Place the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block ... 22 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above (see illustrations). 23 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that It locates on the positioning dowel. 24 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts In engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. Screw the bolls in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, tighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through ihe specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used dunng this stage of tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 25 Refit the inlet manifold and throttle body using a new gasket (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B). 28 Refit the exhaust manifold using a new gasket. Tighten all nuts. Reconnect the exhaust downplpe bracket. 27 Refit the timing belt inner covers and tighten the bolls. 28 Refit the timing belt, and tension It as described in Section 4. Refit the timing belt outer cover. 29 Refit the ignition colls and camshaft cover. 30 Reconnect all hoses, electrical leads and controls referring the relevant Chapters of this manual. 31 Fit the air cleaner and ducting.
9.22b ... so that the ALTO marking can be read from above 32 Reconnect the battery then fill and bleed the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A.
10 Flywheel/driveplate • ^ removal, inspection
and
refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A or 7B. On manual transmission models also remove the clutch (Chapter 6). 2 Mark the position of the flywheel/driveplate with respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. Note thai on some models although there is only one location dowel on the flywheel/driveplate there are two holes in the eno of the crankshaft and it is therefore possible to locate Ihe flywheel 180n out. The flywheel/driveplate must now be held stationary while the bolts are loosened. A home-made locking tool may be fabricated from a piece of scrap metal and used to lock the ring gear. Bolt the tool to one of the transmission bellhousing mounting holes. 3 Unscrew then remove the mounting bolts then lift off the flywheel/driveplate. Recover the spacer plate on manual transmission models. Discard the fiywheet/drivepiate boils; new ones must be used on refitting.
Inspection
Manual transmission models 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface is deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
JEaMKA. mar 9.24c Using an angle gauge to tighten the cylinder head bolts to their second and third stage torque settings
L

2B*4 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.8 Undo three bolts and romove tho crankshaft pulley from the sprocket
Crankshaft setting toot fabrication 7 To make Ihe crankshafl setting tools, four old spark plugs will be required, together with four lengths of dowel rod. The length of each dowel rod is not critical, bul It must be long enough to protrude about 100 mm above the top of the cylinder head extension when resting on top of a piston located half way down its bore. What is critical, however, is that all four do wo I rods must be exactly the same length. 8 Break off the ceramic upper section of each plug and remove the centre electrode and earth tip. The easiest way to do this is to mount each spark plug in a vice (attar removing the ceramic uppor plug section) and drill a hole down through ihe centre of the plug. The diameter of Ihe drill bit should be the same as Ihe diameter of Ihe dowol rod to be used. When finished you should have four spark plug bodies and four equal length dowel rods which will slide through the centre of the spark plugs.
3 Cylinder compression test
1 When engine performance is down, or it misfiring occurs which cannot be attnbuted to the Ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine's condition. If the lest is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble bofore any other symptoms become apparent.
4.10 Undo the upper timing cover upper retaining bolt, and the rear retaining boll
4.9 Undo the retaining bolt in the centre of the lower timing cover
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operxrtrfjg temperature, the battery must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs muse be removed (Chapter 1A>. The aid of an assistant wilt also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by discon-necting the LT wiring plugs to the Ignition coils. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No t cylinder spark plug hole • the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the h.ghest reading obtained 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording Ihe pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any excessive difference indicates Ihe existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on (he first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be tho cause). 6 If the pressure in any cylinder is very low, carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of dean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeal the lest. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between Ihem; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition LT wiring plug.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal and refitting §
General information 1 The luncUon of the timing belt Is to drive the camshafts and coolant pump. Should the bell slip or creak in service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valve contact wiu occur, resulting in serious engine damage. 2 The timing belt should be renewed at the specified Intervals (see Chapter 1A), or earlier If It is contaminated with oil, or if it is at all noisy In operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear}. 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it is
a
wise precaution to check the condition of the coolam pump at the same time (oheck for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fail. 4 Before carrying out this procedure, it will be necessary to obtain or fabricate suitable camshaft locking tools and piston positioning tools as described in Section 2. The procedures contained In this Section depict the use of the home-made alternative tools described in Section 2. which were fabricated In the Haynes workshop. If the manufacturers tools are being used instead, the procedures are virtually identical. Oo not attempt to remove the timing bell unless the special totfs or their alternatives are available.
Removal 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of Ihis manual). 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described In Chapter 1A. 7 Remove the air cleaner, Inlet air duct and resonator as desenbed In Chapter 4B. 8 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see illustration). 9 Undo the retaining bolt In the centre of the lower liming cover (see illustration). 10 Undo tho uppor timing cover upper retaining bolt, and the rear retaining bolt located above the alternator (see illustration). 11 Release the crankshaft TDC sensor wiring from the clip on the upper timing cover, then withdraw the cover slightly and slide Ihe wiring plug and socket from the liming cover slot (see illustrations). 12 Release the TDC sensor wiring from the periphery ol the upper and fower timing covers and remove both covers (see Illustrations). 13 Free the accelerator inner cable from the throttle cam, remove the outer cable spring dip, then pull the outer cable out from its mounting bracket rubber grommet. 14 From the side of the throttle body, disconnect the wiring connectors from the

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
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4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission