1995 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN steering wheel

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be
slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it
may offer the least traction
of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about
freezing
(32 OF; 0” C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving
on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition
- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -
drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires
even
more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop
on a
slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. See
“Anti-Lock” in the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot
that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may
appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of
trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes
the surface of a
curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear.
If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it.
Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel
of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle
you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments),
safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment.
If the
trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working.
This
lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lamps and any trailer brakes are
still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help
you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before
you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer
to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to
the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide
you.
Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the traile\
r
to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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To wing Your Vehicle
Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your
vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how
to tow it
without damage.
If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new, by adding such
things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things
could be damaged during towing.
Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers.
When you call, tell the towing service:
0 That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel
drive option.
The make, model, and year of your vehicle.
0 Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and transfer
case, if you have one.
0 If there was an accident, what was damaged.
When your vehicle is being towed, have
the ignition key off. The steering
wheel should be clamped
in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping
device designed for towing service.
Do not use the vehicle’s steering
column
lock for this. The transmission and transfer case, if you have one,
should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.
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h
9. Then replace the
pressure cap. Be
sure the arrows
on the pressure
cap line up like
this.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the fan
is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan
speed increases as the clutch more
fully engages. So you may hear an
increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping
or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer
to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, /ce or Snow
What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels
too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re
stuck, but you must use caution.
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as
the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting you\
r
transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. \
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains”
in the Index.
Rocking your vehicle to get it out:
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around
your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST
(1) or
SECOND
(2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. If that doesn’t get you
out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your
recovery hooks,
if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out,
see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
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Maintenance Schedule I - Gasoline Engines With
Light Duty Emissions
(Continued)
0 Check readfront axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check
constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
:w:
0 For 2-Wheel Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel
bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
DATE ACTUAL MILEAGE
SERVICED BY: L
-
18,000 Mi/es (30 000 km)
0 Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs
first).
An Emission Control Service.
0 Lubricate the front suspension, king pin bushings, steering linkage,
transmission shift linkage, transfer case shift linkage, parking brake
cable guides, rear driveline center splines, front axle propshaft splines,
brake pedal springs and clutch pedal springs. Ball joints and king pin
bushings
should not be lubricated unless their temperature is 10” F
(-12” C), or higher. When weather is cold, let the ball joints and king
pin bushings warm up before lubrication or they could be damaged.
Perform each
of the listed lubrication service items at this mileage
interval (or every
6 months, whichever occurs first).
0 Check readfront axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check
constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
**
0 Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information.
DATE
SERVICED BY: ACTUAL MILEAGE
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Maintenance Schedule I - Gasoline Engines With
Light Duty Emissions
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs
first).
An Emission Control Service.
Lubricate the front suspension, king pin bushings, steering linkage,
transmission shift linkage, transfer case shift linkage, parking brake
cable guides, rear driveline center splines, front axle propshaft splines,
brake pedal springs and clutch pedal springs. Ball joints and king pin
bushings should
not be lubricated unless their temperature is 10” F
(-12” C), or higher. When weather is cold, let the ball joints and king
pin bushings warm
up before lubrication or they could be damaged.
Perform each of the listed lubrication service items at this mileage
interval (or every
6 months, whichever occurs first).
Check redfront axle fluid level and add
fluid as needed. Check
constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.‘$*
Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
24 months, whichever
occurs first). See “Engine Coolant’’
in the Index for what to use.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control
Service.
For 2-Wheel Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel
bearings (or
at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
Replace air cleaner filter. Replace filter more often under dusty
conditions.
An Em.ission Control Service.
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information.
DATE SERVICED BY: ACTUAL MILEAGE
L
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Maintenance Schedule I - Gasoline Engines With
Light Duty Emissions
(Continued)
0 Check readfront axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check
constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.:'''':
0 For 2-Wheel Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel
bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
I7 Inspect air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions. Replace
filter if necessary.
An Emission Control Sewice.
DATE SERVICED BY: ACTUAL MILEAGE
48,000 Miles (80 000 km)
0 Change
engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs
first).
An Emission Control Service.
0 Lubricate the front suspension, king pin bushings, steering linkage,
transmission shift linkage, transfer case shift linkage, parking brake
cable guides, rear driveline center splines, front axle propshaft splines,
brake pedal springs and clutch pedal springs. Ball joints and king pin
bushings should not be lubricated unless their temperature
is 10" F
(-12" C), or higher. When weather is cold, let the ball joints and king
pin bushings warm up before lubrication or they could be damaged.
Perform each of the listed lubrication service items at this mileage
interval (or every
6 months, whichever occurs first).
0 Check readfront axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check
constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.**
I DATE I ACTUALMILEAGE I SERVICED BY:
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