1995 CHEVROLET S10 change time

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine How to Operate Your ETW AM-FM Stereo Audio
Cassette System with Equalizer
This part tells you how your ETR@ AM-FM stereo audio cassette system
with equalizer works:
Upper Knob (PWR-VOL-PROG-RCL)
- The upper knob has these five
functions:
0 Turn it to turn the system on and off.
Turn it to control the volume.
Press it to display the time when the ignition is off.
0 Press it to change between the clock and the radio station frequency
0 Press it to change sides of a tape when a cassette is playing.
displayed
when the radio is on.
BAL (Balance)
- The control ring behind the upper knob adjusts the
lefuright speaker balance.
Lower Knob (TUNE-AM-FM)
- The lower knob has two functions:
0 Turn it to tune in radio stations.
0 Press it to change between the AM and FM bands.
FADE
- The control ring behind the lower knob adjusts the fronthear
speaker balance.
SEEK
- Press the SEEK button to cause the receiver to SEEK the next
higher station and stop.
SCAN
- Press the SCAN button to hear each station for a few seconds.
Push it again when you reach the station you want to listen to and the radio
will stop scanning. “SCAN” appears in the display.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Pushbuttons - The five pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations.
They are also used when you play a disc. (See
“To Play A Compact Disc”.)
To
set the pushbuttons for up to ten favorite stations (5 AM and 5 FM):
1. Tune in the desired station.
2. Push the SET button. “SET” is displayed briefly.
3. Within 5 seconds, push one of the five pushbuttons to store the station.
Whenever
you press that button, the preset station will return. Repeat
the steps for each of the
5 AM and 5 FM stations.
MUTE
- Press the MUTE button and all sound from the radio or CD
player stops. By pressing the button again sound will begin again.
RCL - Press the RCL button to change between the clock and the radio
station frequency displayed when the radio
is on. RCL may be pressed when
the ignition is off to see
the time.
BASS
- Press the BASS A to increase the bass tones and v BASS to
decrease bass tones. Press the center of the control for a preset BASS
position.
The bass level will be displayed briefly when using this control.
TREBLE
- Press the TREB A to increase the treble tones and v TREB to
decrease the treble tones. Press the center of the control for a preset TREB
position. The treble level will be displayed briefly when using this control.
To Play A Compact Disc (CD)
NOTICE:
DO NOT use mini-discs that are called singles. They won’t eject\
.
USE FULL-SIZE COMPACT DISCS. If the disc player is very
hot, or if you’re driving on a very rough road,
a disc may come
out or just not play. If you see the word HOT on the displa\
y, the
disc player is too hot to play the disc. Press RCL to make \
the
word HOT
go off the display. When things get back to normal,
the disc should play again. Press PWR to turn the system on.
Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in.
Wait a few seconds and the disc should play.
If
the disc comes back out, check to see if any of the following are true:
0 The disc is upside down.
0 It is dirty, scratched, or wet.
0 Too much moisture is in the air. (If there is, wait about one hour and try
again.)
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Here's how anti-lock works. Let's say the road is wet. You're driving safely.
Suddenly an animal jumps out
in front of you.
You slam on the brakes. Here's what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. With four-wheel
anti-lock: If one of the wheels
is about to stop rolling, the computer will
separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at the rear wheels. The
four-wheel anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any
driver could. With rear-wheel anti-lock: If one
of the rear wheels is about
to stop rolling, the computer will work the brakes at the rear wheels. The
computer
is programmed to make the most of available tire and road
conditions.
As
you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and
controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti-lock doesn't change the time you need to get your foot up
to the brake pedal. If you get too close
to the vehicle in front of you, you
won't have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or
stops. Always leave enough room up ahead
to stop, even though you have
anti-lock brakes.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you ,turn
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in
the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle
on wet ice, you’ll
understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends
on the condition of your tires
and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your
speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through
a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply
the brakes. Both control systems
- steering and braking - have to do their
work where the tires meet the road. Unless
you have four-wheel anti-lock
brakes, adding the hard braking can demand
too much of those places. You
can lose control.
The same thing
can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you
suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems - steering and acceleration
- can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you
lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or
accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow
down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of
course, the posted speeds are based
on good weather and road conditions.
Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.
If
you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you
enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a
reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until
you are out of the curve,
and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For
example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car
suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts
out from between parked
cars and stops right in front of
you. You can avoid these problems by
braking
- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t
room. That’s the time for evasive action
- steering around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply
your brakes
- but, unless you have four-wheel anti-lock, not enough to
lock your front wheels.
It is better to remove as much speed as you can from
a possible collision. Then steer around the problem,
to the left or right
depending on the space available.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits
for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around
the vehicle ahead, then
goes back
into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle
on a two-lane highway is a
potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same
lane
as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in
judgment,
or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the
passing driver face to face with
the worst of all traffic accidents - the
head-on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
0
0
0
0
0
0
“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for
situations
that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt
whatsoever about making
a successful pass, wait for a better time.
Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and
lines. If you can see a
sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your
pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass
(providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross
a solid line on your
side of the lane or
a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of
approaching traffic.
Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re
awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces
your area
of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.
Also,
you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly
slows or stops. Keep back
a reasonable distance.
When it looks like
a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but
stay
in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you
will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane.
If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more
than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And
if something happens to cause you
to cancel your pass, you need only
slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.
If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But
take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass
the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check
the blind spot.
Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane
change signal before moving
out of the right lane to pass. When you
are far enough ahead
of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside
mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back
into the
right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror
is convex. The
vehicle
you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it
really is.)
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 0 Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads.
Reconsider before passing
the next vehicle.
0 Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the
brake lamps are
not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to
turn.
0 If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get
ahead of
you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what
the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems.
In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering
skid, too much speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the
driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts
to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to
go. If you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten
out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction
is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want
to slow down and adjust your
driving
to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving on
a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by
shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause
the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues
- such as enough water, ice or packed
snow on the road
to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you
have any doubt.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Sur$ace Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock,
log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often
these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of
the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:
Is the path ahead clear?
0 Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
0 Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion
of these subjects later.)
0 Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?
When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a
firm grip on the
steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel
out of your hands if you’re not prepared.
When
you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can
leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t
control the vehicle
as well or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important
to
avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking.
In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind
of alertness from driving
on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits
or signal lights. You have to use your own
good judgment about what is safe
and what isn’t.
Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this
is
certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special
alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be
affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have
a serious - or
even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has
been drinking. (See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.)
Driving On Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely
on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle
can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter
how well built the vehicle.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing a Trailer
NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result\

in costly repairs not covered by your warranty.
To pull a trailer
correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your
GM dealer
for important information about towing a trailer with your
vehicle.
Most vehicles are ready for some trailer towing. If yours was built with
trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering
is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes
in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has
to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important
trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety
and that
of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you
pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points.
There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions,
having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only
where you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 pounds
(900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer
will weigh more than
2,000 pounds (900 kg). You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
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