
170-2
RADIATOR
AND
COOLING
SYSTEM
Cooling
Fans
TROUBLESHOOTING
Belt-driven
coolingfan
.
The
primary
cooling
fan
is
belt-
driven
.
It
is
mounted
to
the
frontof
the
coolant
pump
through
a
fan
clutch
.
The
fan
clutch
is
a
viscous
fluid
coupling
that
con-
trols
the
speed
of
thefan
based
on
engine
compartment
tem-
perature
.
Electric
cooling
fan
.
Models
with
M44
engine
and
stan-
dard
transmission
substitute
an
electric
fan
for
the
belt-driven
viscous
fan
.
This
is
attached
to
the
rear
of
the
radiator
and
controlledvia
the
DME
5
.2
engine
management
system
.
NOTE-
The
electric
cooling
fan
in
these
models
is
activated
by
the
engine
control
module
(ECM)
.
Auxiliary
coolingfan
.
In
al¡
models
a
two-speed
electric
auxiliary
cooling
fan
is
mounted
behind
the
front
grill
and
in
front
of
the
radiator
.
This
fan
is
primarily
used
for
the
A/C
sys-
tem,
but
also
operates
when
the
coolant
temperature
ex-
ceeds
a
predetermined
leve¡
.
Warnings
and
Cautions
The
following
warnings
and
Cautions
should
beobserved
when
working
on
the
cooling
system
.
WARNING
-
"
Atnormal
operating
temperature
the
cooling
sys-
tem
is
pressurized
.
Allow
the
system
to
cool
as
long
as
possible
before
opening-a
minimum
of
an
hour-then
release
the
cap
slowly
to
allow
sale
release
of
pressure
.
"
Releasing
the
cooling
system
pressure
lowers
the
coolants
boiling
point
and
the
coolant
may
boíl
suddenly
.
Use
heavy
gloves
and
wear
eye
and
laceprotection
to
guard
against
scalding
.
"
Use
extreme
care
when
draining
and
disposing
of
engine
coolant
.
Coolant
is
poisonous
and
lethal
to
humans
and
pets
.
Pets
are
attracted
to
coolant
because
of
its
sweet
smell
and
taste
.
Consult
a
veterinarian
immediately
if
coolant
is
ingested
byan
animal
.
CAUTION-
"
Avoidadding
cold
water
to
the
coolant
while
the
engine
is
hot
or
overheated
.
If
it
is
necessary
to
add
coolant
to
ahot
system,
do
so
only
with
the
engine
running
and
coolant
pump
tuming
.
"
Prior
to
disconnecting
the
battery,
read
the
bat-
tery
disconnection
cautions
given
at
the
front
of
this
manual
on
page
viii
.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Most
cooling
system
faults
can
be
grouped
into
one
of
three
categories
:
"
Cooling
system
leaks
"
Poor
coolant
circulation
"
Radiator
cooling
fan
faults
When
investigating
the
cause
of
overheating
or
coolant
loss,
begin
with
a
visual
inspection
.
Be
sure
to
check
the
con-
dition
and
tension
of
the
coolant
pump
drive
belt
.
Check
hoses
for
cracks
or
softness
.
Check
clamps
for
looseness
.
Check
the
coolant
leve¡
and
check
for
evidence
of
coolantleaks
from
the
engine
.
Check
that
the
radiator
fins
are
not
blocked
with
dirt
or
de-
bris
.
Clean
the
radiator
using
low-pressure
water
or
com-
pressed
air
.
Blow
outward,
fromthe
engine
side
out
.
Inspect
the
coolant
pump
by
first
removing
the
drive
belt
from
the
pump
.
Firmly
grasp
opposite
sídes
of
the
pulley
and
check
for
play
in
all
directions
.
Spin
the
pulley
and
check
that
the
shaft
runs
smoothly
.
NOTE-
The
coolant
provides
lubrication
for
the
pump
shaft,
soan
occasional
drop
of
coolant
leaking
from
the
pump
is
acceptable
.
If
coolant
drips
steadily
from
the
vent
hole,
the
pump
should
be
replaced
.
The
cooling
system
becomes
pressurized
at
normal
operat-
ing
temperature,
which
raises
the
boiling
point
of
the
coolant
.
Leaks
may
prevent
the
system
from
becoming
pressurized,
allowing
the
coolant
to
boil
at
a
lower
temperature
.
If
visual
ev-
idence
is
inconclusive,
a
cooling
system
pressure
test
can
help
to
pinpointhard-to-find
leaks
.
If
the
cooling
system
is
full
of
coolant
and
holds
pressure,
the
next
most
probable
cause
of
overheating
are
:
"
Faulty
radiator
fan
"
Loose
or
worn
drive
belt
"
Failed
thermostat
or
coolant
pump
"
Clogged/plugged
radiator
or
coolant
passages
.
NOTE
-
"
Some
early
style
coolant
pumps
were
fitted
wíth
fi-
berlplastic
type
impellers
.
Over
time,
this
impeller
can
wear
away
and
result
in
overheating
.
The
plastic
im-
peller
can
also
slip
or
free-wheel
on
the
pump
shaft
.
If
the
engine
overheats
and
no
other
faults
canbe
found,
theold
style
impeller
may
be
the
cause
of
the
problem
.
"
Only
pumps
with
the
updated
metal
impeller
should
be
used
for
replacement
.

170-
4
RADIATOR
AND
COOLING
SYSTEM
A
quick
testat
the
coolant
temperature
gauge
sender
can
The
auxiliary
cooling
fan
comes
on
when
coolant
tempera
determine
if
the
gauge
is
functioning
correctly
.
ture
exceeds
a
predetermined
leve¡
or
whenever
the
air
condi-
tioning
is
on
.
A
dual-range
temperature
switch
for
cooling
fan
lf
the
gauge
needie
remains
at
the
rest
position
with
theen-
control
is
mounted
on
the
right
side
of
the
radiator
.
See
Fig
.
3
.
gine
warm,
remove
the
harness
connector
from
the
sender
and
jumper
the
correct
terminals
in
the
connector
to
simulate
a
high
engine
temperature
.
See
Table
a
.
Turn
the
ignition
on
.
If
the
gauge
needle
moves
upward,
the
sender
is
faulty
.
If
the
gauge
does
not
respond,
the
wiring
to
the
gauge
is
broken
(open
circuit)
or
the
gauge
itselfis
faulty
.
WARNING
-
1996
and
laten
models
are
OBD
11
compliant
.
Dis-
connecting
electrical
connectors
wíth
the
ignition
turned
on
may
set
fault
codes
in
the
ECM
.
It
is
rec-
ommended
that
you
leave
the
diagnosis
of
faults
in
the
coolant
temperature
sensorsystem
to
the
BMW
dealer
service
department
which
has
specialized
OBD
11
scan
tool
equipment
.
If
the
gauge
needle
reads
too
high
when
the
engine
is
cold,
remove
the
harness
connector
from
the
sender
.
Turn
the
igni-
tion
on
.
lf
the
gauge
needle
position
does
not
change,
the
wir-
ing
or
the
gauge
is
shorted
to
ground
.
If
the
gauge
needle
drops,
the
sender
is
faulty
and
should
be
replaced
.
When
re-
placing
a
faulty
coolant
temperature
sender,
the
gasket
ring
on
the
sender
should
also
be
replaced
.
Tightening
Torque
"
Temperature
gauge
sender
to
engine
18
Nm
(13
ft-Ib)
Cooling
fan,
testing
NOTE-
OnM44
engines
with
manual
transmission,
the
primary
electric
cooling
fan
is
mounted
on
the
engine
side
of
the
radiator
and
is
controlled
by
the
engine
control
module
(ECM)
.
Troubleshooting
thiscircuit
should
be
left
to
an
authorized
BMW
dealer
with
the
proper
diagnostic
equipment
An
otherwise
sound
cooling
system
may
still
overheat,
par-
ticularly
with
prolonged
idling,
due
to
a
failure
of
the
coolíng
fan(s)
.
The
belt-driven
cooling
fan
is
controlled
by
a
temperature
dependent
viscous
clutch
.
A
failed
fan
clutch
may
affect
air
flow
through
the
radiator
resulting
in
overheating
orpossibly
overcooling
.
Speed
Low
sp
High
s
With
the
engine
off,
check
thefan
clutch
by
spinning
thefan
.
eed
The
fan
should
spin
on
the
clutch
with
some
resistance
.
peed
Check
for
signs
of
leaking
fluid
from
the
clutch
.
If
thefan
free-
wheels
with
no
resistance,
cannot
be
tu
rned
by
hand,
or
there
are
signs
of
oil
leakage,
the
clutch
should
be
replaced
.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Fig
.
3
.
Radiatorcooling
fan
temperature
switch
(arrow)
.
WARNING
-
"
Use
caution
when
testing
the
electric
cooling
fan(s)
and
coolant
temperature
switch
.
Keep
hands
and
wires
clear
of
thefan
blades
.
The
cool-
ing
fan(s)
can
run
any
time
the
ignition
is
ON
.
"
For
greatest
safety,
coolíng
fan
and
coolant
tem-perature
switch
tests
shouldbe
performed
on
acoldengine
with
the
air
conditioning
off
.
Table
b
.
Auxiliary
Cooling
Fan
Switching
Temperatures
Switching
temperature
196°F(91°C)
210°F(99°C)
0012506
If
a
faulty
thermostat,
trapped
air,
or
a
restriction
in
the
sys-
tem
is
not
allowing
the
coolant
to
circulate
through
the
radia-
tor,
the
temperature
switch
will
not
close
and
the
auxiliary
cooling
fan
will
not
run
.
Before
making
the
tests
described
be-
low,
make
sure
the
thermostat
is
operating
correctly
as
de-
scribed
earlier
.
The
normal
switching
temperatures
for
the
dual
-speed
switch
are
listed
in
Table
b
.

5
.
Slowly
add
coolant
until
it
spills
from
bleed
screws
.
When
coolant
spillíng
from
bleed
screws
is
free
of
air
bubbies,
tighten
screws
.
6
.
Run
engine
until
it
reaches
operatíng
temperature
.
Af-
ter
engine
has
cooled,
recheck
coolant
level
and
top
up
as
necessary
.
CAUTION-
Always
use
genuine
BMW
coolant
or
its
equiva-
lent
to
avoid
the
formation
of
harmful,
clogging
de-
posits
in
the
cooling
system
.
Use
of
other
antifreeze
solutions
may
be
harmful
to
the
cooling
system
.
Tightening
Torque
"
Radiator
bleed
screw
to
thermostat
housing
...
.
.
........
8
Nm
(71
in-lb)
Belt-driven
cooling
fan,
replacing
1
.
Usinga32
mm
wrench
on
fan
clutch
nut,
turn
wrench
quickly
in
a
clockwise
direction
(working
from
front
of
car)
to
loosen
.
Spin
fan
off
pump
.
See
Fig
.
8
.
NOTE-
"
The
radiator
cooling
fan
nut(32
mm
wrench)
has
left-
hand
threads
.
"
The
nut
may
be
difficult
to
loosen
.
Use
a
tool
to
hold
the
coolant
pump
pulleystationary
.
BMW
hasa
spe-
cial
tool
forthis
purpose
(BMW
special
tool
no
.
115
030)
.
2
.
Remove
expansion
rivets
holding
shroud
to
radiator
.
See
Fig
.
9
.
Remove
fan
and
shroud
together
.
NOTE-
Store
the
removed
fan
clutch
assembly
in
an
upright
(installed)
positionto
prevent
lossof
clutch
fluid
.
RADIATOR
AND
COOLING
SYSTEM
170-
7
Fig
.
8
.
Radiatorcooling
fannut
(arrow)
.
Nuthas
left-hand
threads
.
3
.
To
replace
fan
clutch,
remove
fan
mounting
bolts
and
separate
clutch
from
fan
.
Fig
.
9
.
Fan
shroud
retaining
rivet
(arrow)
.
Pryout
center
pin
and
re
4
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
rernoval
.
move
rivet
.
Rivet
design
may
vary
depending
on
model
and
model
year
.
Tightening
Torques
"
Clutchnut
to
coolant
pump
(left-hand
threads)
Wíthout
BMW
tool
no
.
11
5
040
.....
40
Nm
(29
ft-lb)
With
BMW
tool
no
.
11
5
040
.
......
30
Nm
(22
ft-Ib)
"
Fan
to
viscous
clutch
...
.
..
.
......
10
Nm
(89
in-lb)
0013203
COOLING
SYSTEM
SERVICE

GENERAL
..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
......
.
......
210-1
CLUTCH
MECHANICAL
.
.
.
.
.
...
.
.....
.
.
210-3
CLUTCH
HYDRAULICS
.
.
.
.............
210-1
Clutch,
removing
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
...
.
.
.
.
210-4
Clutch,inspecting
and
installing
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.210-5Clutch
hydraulic
system,
Transmission
pilot
bearing,replacing
.
.
.
.
...
210-6
bleeding
and
flushing
.
.
.
.
.
.......
.
.....
210-2
Clutch
master
cylinder,
replacing
..
.
.
.
.
.
...
210-2
Table
Clutch
slave
cylinder,
replacing
...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
210-3
a
.
Clutch
Disc
Diameter
.............
..
..
.
......
210-3
GENERAL
CLUTCH
HYDRAULICS
This
repair
group
covers
replacement
of
the
clutch
mechan-
The
Clutch
is
hydraulically
actuated
by
the
master
and
slave
¡cal
and
hydraulic
components
.
Special
tools
may
be
required
cylinders
.
Clutch
disc
wear
is
automatically
taken
upby
the
for
some
of
the
procedures
.
Read
the
procedure
through
be-
pushrod
travelof
the
slave
cylinder,
making
periodic
adjust-fore
beginning
a
job
.
ments
unnecessary
.
NOTE-
See200
Transmission-General
for
transmission
applicatíon
information
.
The
major
components
of
the
clutch
system
are
shown
in
Fig
.
1
.
Engine
Pressure
plate
flywheel,,
assembly
Clutch
Flywheel
bolt
Pressure
plate
release
lever
Release
lever
Fig
.
1
.
Clutch
assembly
and
hydraufcs
.
210
Clutch
Release
bearing
Pushrod
A
soft
or
spongy
feel
to
the
clutchpedal,
long
pedal
free-
play,
or
grinding
noises
from
thegears
while
shifting
can
all
in-
dicate
problems
with
the
Clutch
hydraulics
.
In
these
circum-
stances
it
is
best
to
start
with
a
clutch
fluid
flush,
followed,
if
necessary,
byreplacement
of
the
hydraulic
parts
.
From
brake
fluid
reservoir
CLUTCH
210-1
0
0
Transmission
inputshaft
Clutch
master
cylinder
Bulkhead
Slave
cylinder
6535
CLUTCH
HYDRAULICS

210-2
CLUTCH
Clutch
hydraulic
system,
bleeding
and
flushing
If
the
clutch/brake
fluid
is
murky
or
muddy,
or
has
not
been
changed
within
the
last
two
years,
the
system
should
be
flushed
.
Flushing
the
old
fluid
from
the
clutch
lines
is
done
us-
ing
a
brake
system
pressure
bleeder
.
1
.
Remove
brake
fluíd
reservoir
cap
.
Usinga
clean
sy-
ringe,
remove
brake
fluid
from
reservoir
.
Refill
reservoir
with
clean
fluid
.
2
.
Attach
pressure
brake
bleeder
to
fluid
reservoír
.
CA
UTION-
Do
not
exceed
2
bar
(29
psi)
pressure
at
the
fluid
reservoir
when
bleeding
or
flushing
the
hydraulic
system
.
3
.
Connect
a
length
of
hose
from
clutch
slave
cylinder
bleeder
valve
lo
a
container
.
See
Fig
.
2
.
0012003
Fig
.
2
.
Clutch
slave
cylinder
bleeder
valve
on
left
side
of
transmission
(arrow)
.
4
.
Open
bleeder
valve
and
allow
brake
fluid
to
expel
until
clean
fluid
comes
out
free
of
air
bubbles
.
5
.
Close
bleeder
valve
and
disconnect
pressure
bleeding
equipment
from
fluid
reservoir
.
Hose
on
bleeder
valve
remainsconnected
.
6
.
Slowly
operate
clutch
pedal
about10
times
.
Fill
reser-
voir
with
clean
fluid
asnecessary
.
7
.
Unbolt
slavecylinder
from
transmission
.
8
.
Position
slave
cylinder
so
that
bleeder
valve
is
facing
up
(highest
point)
.
CLUTCH
HYDRAULICS
9
.
Open
bleeder
valve
and
slowly
push
slave
cylinder
pushrod
al¡
the
way
in
.
Close
bleeder
valve
and
slowly
release
pushrod
.
Repeat
procedure
until
fluid
runs
out
clear
and
without
bubbles
.
10
.
Disconnect
bleeder
hose
.
Instan
slavecylinder
lo
trans-
mission
.
Add
cleanbrake
fluid
to
reservoir
as
neces-
sary
.
Check
clutch
operation
.
Tightening
Torques
"
Clutch
slave
cylinder
to
transmission
................
..
22
Nm
(17
ft
lb)
Clutch
master
cylinder,
replacing
The
clutch
master
cylinder
is
mounted
to
the
pedal
assem-
bly,
directly
above
the
clutch
pedal
.
1
.
Disconnect
negative
(-)
cable
from
battery
.
CAUTION-
Prior
to
disconnectiog
the
battery,
read
the
battery
disconnection
cautionsgiven
at
the
front
of
this
manual
on
page
viii
.
2
.
Remove
brake
fluid
reservoir
cap
.
Usinga
clean
sy-
ringe,
remove
brake
fluid
from
reservoir
.
CA
UTION-
Brake
fluid
is
poisonous,
highly
corrosive
and
dan-gerous
to
the
environment
.
Wear
safety
glasses
and
rubbergloves
when
working
with
brake
fluid
.
Do
notsiphonbrake
fluid
with
your
mouth
.
Imme-
diately
clean
away
any
fluid
spilled
on
painted
sur-
faces
and
wash
with
water,
asbrake
fluid
will
remove
point
.
3
.
Disconnect
fluid
supply
hose
from
master
cylinder
.
Placea
pan
under
hose
to
catch
any
excess
fluid
.
4
.
Working
in
engine
compartment,
disconnect
fluid
line
fitting
frommaster
cylinder
.
5
.
Working
in
passenger
compartment,
remove
lower
in-
strument
panel
trim
above
pedal
cluster
.
6
.
Disconnect
clutch
pedal
from
clutch
master
cylinder
push
rod
by
removing
clevis
pin
locking
clip
and
slide
out
clevis
pin
.
7
.
Remove
master
cylinder
mounting
bolts
.
See
Fig
.
3
.
8
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.
Fill
fluid
reservoir
with
clean
fluid
.
Bleed
clutch
hydraulics
as
described
earlier
.
Connect
negative
cable
to
battery
last
.

Fig
.
3
.
Clutch
master
cylinder
mounting
bolts
.
Clutch
slave
cylinder,
replacing
0012589
Tightening
Torques
"
Clutch
master
cylinder
to
bulkhead
..
22
Nm
(17
ft-Ib)
"
Fluid
line
to
master
cylinder
orslave
cylinder
.................
16
Nm
(12
ft-1b)
The
clutch
slave
cylinder
is
mounted
on
the
left
side
of
the
transmission
.
CLUTCH
MECHANICAL
1
.
Remove
brake
fluid
reservoir
cap
.
Using
a
clean
sy-
ringe,
remove
brake
fluid
from
reservoir
.
2
.
Disconnect
fluid
hose
from
slave
cylinder
.
Place
a
pan
under
hose
to
catch
any
excess
fluid
.
3
.
Unbolt
slave
cylinder
from
transmission
.
See
Fig
.
4
.
4
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal,
noting
the
following
:
"
Check
for
wear
on
pushrod
.
Any
other
wear
except
on
tipis
caused
by
misalignment
of
clutch
components
.
"
Lightly
coat
pushrod
tip
with
molybdenum
disulfide
grease
(Molykote
0
Longterm
2
or
equivalent)
.
"
During
installation
be
sure
pushrod
tip
engages
recess
in
clutch
release
lever
.
"
Fill
fluid
reservoir
with
clean
fluid
.
"
Bleed
clutch
hydraulics
as
described
earlier
.
CLUTCH
210-
3
Fig
.
4
.
Clutch
slave
cylinder
mounting
bolts
(arrows)
.
Tablea
.
ClutchDisc
Diameter
Model
Diameter
3181/is/iC
215
mm
(8
.46
in)
325i/is/iC
228
mm
(8
.98
in)
323is/iC
328i/is/iC
240
mm
(9
.45
in)
M3
0012715
Tightening
Torques
"
Clutch
slave
cylinder
to
transmission
.
.
................
22
Nm
(17
ft
lb)
"
Fluid
line
to
slave
cylinder
......
.17
Nm
(10-12
ft
lb)
The
transmission
must
be
removed
from
the
engine
to
ac-
cess
the
clutch
mechanical
components
.
It
is
recommended
that
the
clutch
disc,
pressure
plate
and
release
bearing
be
re-
placed
duringa
clutch
overhaul
.
Be
sure
to
check
the
bottom
of
the
bellhousing
for
oil
.
If
engine
oil
is
found,
check
for
a
faulty
rear
crankshaft
oil
seal
.
CLUTCH
MECHANICAL

230-
6
MANUAL
TRANSMISSION
Transmission,
removing
and
installing
1
.
Disconnect
negative
(-)
cable
from
battery
.
CAUTION-
Prior
to
disconnecting
the
battery,
read
the
battery
disconnection
cautions
given
at
the
front
of
this
manual
onpage
viii
.
2
.
Insta¡¡
enginesupportacrossengine
bay
.
Raise
engine
so
that
weight
of
engine
ís
supported
.
See
Fig
.
10
.
Fig
.
10
.
Engine
support
equipment
used
to
support
engine
from
above
before
removing
transmission
.
3
.
Raise
vehicle
to
gain
access
to
underside
of
car
.
4
.
Support
transmission
with
transmission
jack
.
lf
applica-
ble,
remove
reinforcing
cross
brace
from
belowen-
gine/transmission
.
5
.
Disconnect
harnesscon
nector
from
reverse
light
switch
on
transmission
.
6
.
Remove
completeexhaustsystem
and
heat
shield
.
See
180
Exhaust
System
.
NOTE-
Disconnect
oxygensensor
hamess
connector(s)be-
fore
lowering
exhaust
system
.
7
.
Remove
driveshaft
.
See260
Driveshaft
.
8
.
Disconnect
shift
rod
from
transmission
selectorshaft
.
See
Fig
.
11
.
9
.
Disconnect
shift
console
fromtop
of
transmission
.
See
250
Gearshift
Linkage
.
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
AND
INSTALLATION
Washers
Shift
Shift
rod
rod
retaining
clip
0
0
,
Fig
.
11
.
Shift
lever
to
transmission
connection
.
Shift
console
0012024
10
.
Unbolt
clutch
slave
cylinder
from
sideof
transmission
.
Do
not
disconnect
fluid
hose
.
Suspend
slavecylinder
from
chassis
using
stiff
wire
.
CAUTION-
Do
not
operate
clutch
pedal
with
slave
cylinder
re-
moved
from
transmission
.
11
.
Support
transmission
from
below
with
jack
.
Remove
rear
support
crossmember
from
transmission
.
See
Fig
.
12
.
Fig
.
12
.
Rear
transmission
crossmember
(arrow)
.
12
.
Lower
transmission/engine
assembly
until
it
rests
on
front
suspension
crossmember
.
CAUTION-
Tilting
the
engine
to
lower
thetransmission
can
lead
to
damage
to
various
componente
due
to
lackof
clearance
at
rear
of
engine
-On
cars
with
AST
remove
throttle
body
before
tilt-
ing
engine
.
-Remove
brace
fluid
reservoir
if
necessary
.
0013135

13
.
Remove
transmission
mounting
bolts
(Torx-head)
.
Note
length
and
location
of
bolts
.
See
Fig
.
13
.
Fig
.
13
.
Transmission
mounting
bolts
.
0611642
CA
UTION-
Atno
time
should
the
weight
of
thetransmission
be
supported
by
the
transmission
inputshaft
.
NOTE
-
Washers
should
always
be
used
with
Torx-head
bolts
.
Installing
bolts
without
washers
will
make
them
difficult
to
loosen
.
MANUAL
TRANSMISSION
230-
7
Fig
.
14
.
Bellhousing
alignment
dowels
(arrows)
.
16
.
Install
driveshaft
and
preload
center
bearing
bracket
.
Usenew
nuts
when
mounting
driveshaft
to
transmis-
síon/flex
disc
and
final
drive
.
See
260
Driveshaft
.
17
.
Refill
transmission
with
appropriate
lubricant
before
starting
or
towingthe
car
.
See
Transmission
Fluid
Service
earlier
in
this
repair
group
.
14
.
Remove
transmission
by
pulling
backward
until
the
trans-
Tightening
Torques
mission
inputshaft
clears
the
clutch
disc
splines,
then
"
Reinforcing
cross
brace
pulí
downwards
.
Lower
jack
andremove
transmission
.
to
chassis
(M10)
.
...
.............
42
Nm
(31
ft-Ib)
"
Rubber
mount
to
transmission
15
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal,
keeping
in
mind
the
or
bracket
nut
(M8)
.
...
.
...
.......
21
Nm
(16
ft-Ib)
following
:
"
Slave
cylinder
to
transmission
......
22
Nm
(16
ft-Ib)
"
When
installing
exchange
transmission,
transfer
parts
"
Transmission
crossmember
to
chassis
from
old
unit
to
exchange
unit
M8
...............
.
.
...
..
22-24
Nm
(16-17
ft-Ib)
"
Thoroughly
clean
inputshaft
and
clutch
disc
splines
.
M10
..............
.
..
..
.......
42
Nm
(31
ft-Ib)
Lightly
lubrícate
transmission
inputshaft
before
in-
"
Transmission
to
engine
(Torx-head)
stalling
.-
M8
..
..................
..
.
..
..
22
Nm
(16
ft-Ib)
"
Be
sure
bellhousing
dowels
are
correctly
located
.
See
M10
.
.................
...
.
..
..
43
Nm
(32
ft-Ib)
Fig
.
14
.
M12
.
..................
..
.
..
..
72
Nm
(53
ft-Ib)
"
Center
rear
of
transmission
in
driveshaft
tunnel
before
"
Transmission
drain/fill
plugs
.
..
.
..
..
50
Nm
(37
ft-Ib)
tightening
transmission
support
bracket
.
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
AND
INSTALLATION