1994 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA tire pressure

Your Driving and the Road
110
SERVICE
ENGINE
SOON ANT’- LOCK I
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
Your vehicle has an advanced electronic
braking system that can help you keep
it under control. When you start your
vehicle and begin to drive away, you
may hear a momentary motor or
clicking noise. This is the ABS system
testing itself. Here’s how anti-lock works.
Let’s say
the road is wet. You’re driving safely.
Suddenly an animal jumps out in front
You slam on the brakes. Here’s what
happens with
ABS.
A computer senses that the wheels are
slowing down. If one of the wheels is
about to stop rolling, the computer will
separately work the brakes at each front
wheel and at the rear wheels. The anti-
lock system can change the brake
pressure faster than any driver could.
The computer is programmed to make
the most of available tire and road
conditions. You can steer around the
obstacle while braking hard.
of
you.
As you brake, your computer keeps
receiving updates on wheel speed and
controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change
the time you need to get your foot up to
the brake pedal.
If you get too close to
the vehicle
in front of you, you won’t
have time to apply your brakes if that
vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always
leave enough room up ahead to stop,
even though you have anti-lock brakes.
To Use Four-wheel Anti-Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the
brake pedal down and let anti-lock
work for you. You may feel the brakes
vibrate, or you may notice some noise,
but this is normal.
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Your Driving and the Road
122
Stalling on an Mine
If your vehicle stalls when you’re
crossing an incline, be sure you (and
your passengers) get
out on the uphill
side, even if the door there is harder to
open. If you get out on the downhill
side and the vehicle starts to roll over,
you’ll be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay
out of the path the vehicle will take if it
does roll over.
Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or
Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand,
your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning
is more difficult, and you’ll need longer
braking distances.
It’s best to use a low gear when you’re
in mud -the deeper the mud, the
lower the gear. In really deep mud, the
idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so
you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a
change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the
sand
is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend
to sink into the sand. This has an
effect on steering, accelerating, and
braking. You may want to reduce the
air pressure in your tires slightly when
driving on sand. This will improve
traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the
worst tire traction.
On these surfaces,
it’s very easy to lose control.
On wet
ice, for example, the traction is
so poor
that you will have difficulty
accelerating. And
if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can
cause you to slide
out of control.
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Your Driving and the Road
126
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much
water can build up under your tires that
they can actually ride on the water. This
can happen
if the road is wet enough
and you’re going fast enough. When
your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little
or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often.
But it can
if your tires haven’t much
tread or
if the pressure in one or more is
low. It can happen
if a lot of water is
standing on the road.
If you can see
reflections
horn trees, telephone poles,
or other vehicles, and raindrops
“dimple” the water’s surface, there
could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher
speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast
rule about hydroplaning. The best advice
is to
slow down when it is raining.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlights -
not just your parking lights - to help
make you more visible to others.
Besides slowing down, allow some
extra following distance. And be
especially careful when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more
clear room ahead, and be prepared to
have your view restricted by road
spray.
Have good tires with proper tread
depth. (See
Tires in the Index.)
A , ”
I City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city
streets is the amount
of traffic on them.
You’ll want
to watch out for what the
other drivers are doing and pay
attention to traffic signals.
Here are ways to increase your safety in
city driving:
Know the best way to get to where
you are going. Get a city map and
plan your trip into an unknown part
of the city just as you would for a
cross-country trip.
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Your Driving und the Road
128
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes
quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your
speedometer, not to your sense of
motion. After driving for any distance at
higher speeds, you may tend to think you
are going slower than you actually are.
I Before Leaving on a Long
Tip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well
rested. If
you must start when you’re
not fresh
- such as after a day’s work
- don’t plan to make too many miles
that first part of the journey. Wear
comfortable clothing and shoes you can
easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If
you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s
ready to go.
If it needs service, have it
done before starting out.
Of course,
you’ll find experienced and able service
experts in Oldsmobile dealerships all
across North America. They’ll be ready
and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check
before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid Is the
reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
shape?
you checked all levels?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have
Lights: Are they all working? Are the
lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a
safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread
good enough for long-distance
driving? Are the tires all inflated to
the recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the
weather outlook along your route?
Should you delay your trip a short
time to avoid a major storm system?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as
“highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain
falling asleep at the wheel? Call it
highway hypnosis, lack
of awareness, or
whatever.
There is something about an easy
stretch of road with the same scenery, along
with the hum of the tires on the
road, the drone of the engine, and the
rush of the wind against the vehicle that
can make you sleepy. Don’t let it
happen
to you! If it does, your vehicle
can leave the road in
less than a
second, and you could crash and be
injured.
What can you do about highway
hypnosis? First, be aware that it can
happen.
Then here are some tips:
Make sure your vehicle is well
ventilated, with a comfortably cool
interior.
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road
ahead and to the sides. Check your
mirrors and your instruments
frequently.
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into
a rest, service, or parking area and
take a nap, get some exercise, or both.
For safety, treat drowsiness on the
highway as an emergency.
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Your Driving and the Road
134
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch
equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are a few
reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when
loaded, will weigh more than
2,000
pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a
properly mounted, weight-distributing
hitch and sway control
of the proper
size. This equipment is very important
for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
Will you have to make any holes in
the body of your vehicle when you
install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t
seal them, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle (see
Carbon Monoxide in
the
Index). Dirt and water can, too.
. The bumpers on your vehicle are not
intended for hitches. Do not attach
rental hitches or other bumper-type
hitches to them. Use only a frame-
mounted hitch that does not attach to
the bumper. If
your vehicle has
a deadweight hitch
and a tailgate-mounted spare tire, and
your trailer has a winch or tongue jack,
you could have interference between
them.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains
between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer
so that the tongue
will not drop to the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains. Always leave
just enough slack
so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains
to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000
pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow
the instructions for the trailer brakes
so
you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly. Don’t
tap into your vehicle’s brake
system
if the trailer’s brake system will
use more than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc)
of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder. If it does, both braking
systems won’t work well. You could
even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000
psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not,
the trailer brake system must not be
used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then
make the brake fluid tap at the port
on the master cylinder that sends
fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use
copper tubing for this. If
you do, it
will bend and finally break off. Use
steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain
amount of experience. Before setting
out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking
with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the
vehicle you are driving is now a good
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MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS COW XXlKx
c- GAWRFRT CAWRRR
THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE US. FEDERAL
OF MANUPACTURE SwOwN ABOVE. MOTOR w1ICLE SAFEl’Y STANDARDS IN EPFECT ON TAE DATE
MODEL:
WAX
RR FRT
SPA LmG
SERIAL
NUMBER M.P.V.
SPEED PAYLOAD
TIRESIZE
RTC RIM PSVWA (COLD)
SEE
OWNER’S MANUAL POR ADDITIONAL INPORMATlON
Loading Your Vehicle
The Certificatioflire label is found on
the rear edge of the driver’s door. The
label shows the size of your original
tires and the inflation pressures needed
to obtain the
gross weight capacity of
your vehicle.
This is called the GVWR
(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The
GVWR includes the weight of the
vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
The Certificationnire label also tells
you the maximum weights for the front
md rear axles, called Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the
3ctual loads on your front and rear
des, you need to go to a weigh station
md weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can
help
you with this. Be sure to spread out
your load equally on both sides of
the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your
vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for either the front or
rear axle.
And,
if you do have a heavy load, you
should spread it out. Using heavier
suspension components
to get added durability might not
change your weight ratings. Ask your
dealer to help you load your vehicle the
right way. NOTICE:
Your warranty does not cover parts
or components that fail because of
overloading.
If you put things inside your vehicle -
like suitcases, tools, packages, or
anything else
- they will go as fast as
the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or
turn quickly, or
if there is a crash,
they’ll keep going.
183
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Service & Appearance Care
186
Inflation-Tire Pressure
The Certification/Tire label which is
on the rear edge
of the driver’s door
shows the correct inflation pressures
for your tires, when they’re cold.
“Cold” means your vehicle has been
sitting for at least three hours or driven
no more than
a mile. Also see
Capacities G Specifications in the
Index.
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that
underinflation
or overinflation is all
right. It’s not. If your tires don’t
have enough air (underinflation)
you can get:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air
(overinflation)
) you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road
hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more.
Also, check the tire pressure
of the
spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to
check tire pressure. Simply looking at
the tires will not tell you the pressure,
especially if you have radial tires
-
which may look properly inflated even if
they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to
put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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rire Inspection and Rotation
To make your tires last longer, have
:hem inspected and rotated at the
nileages recommended in the
Maintenance Schedule.
See Scheduled
Maintenance Services
in the Index.
Use this rotation pattern.
[f your vehicle has front tires with
iifferent load ratings or tread designs
(such as all season vs.
on/off road) than
the rear tires, don’t rotate your tires
kont to rear.
Mer the tires have been rotated, adjust
;he front and rear inflation pressure as
shown on the Certificatioflire label.
Make certain that all wheel nuts are
?roperly tightened. See
Wheel Nut
l’orque in the Index.
TREAD WEAR INDICATORS
When It’s Time for New Tires
3ne way to tell when it’s time for new
:ires is to check the treadwear
.ndicators, which will appear when your
tires have only
2/32 inch (1.6 mm) or
less
of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if
You can see the indicators at three or
more places around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing
through the tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut
or snagged deep enough to show cord
or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
I87
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