1994 FIAT PUNTO Overhaul

Braking system 9®3
2.6a Unscrew the upper...
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 6 Unscrew the upper and lower caliper guide cin bolts, using a slim open-ended spanner to counterhold the head of the guide pin (see illustrations). Discard the guide pin bolts -new items must be fitted on reassembly. 7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly (see illustration). Suspend it from a suitable point on the suspension using a length of wire or 8 cable-tie, to avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
All models Caution: Do not depress the brake pedal until the caliper is refitted, or the piston will
be
pushed out of Its bore. 8 Withdraw the brake pads from the caliper bracket (see illustrations). 9 Measure the thickness of each brake pad's foclion material. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.

A


Warning: Do not be tempted to swap brake pads over to compensate for uneven wear. 10 if the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar and brake cleaning fluid. Pay particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Where applicable, clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded panicles of dirt
or
debris. 11 Clean the surfaces of the brake pad contact points In the caliper body and caliper mounting bracket. 12 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the giide pins can slide freely in the caliper body, and check that the rubber guide pin gaiters
are
undamaged. Brush the dust and din from
the
caliper and piston, but do not inhale it. as
4 may
contain asbestos. 13 Inspect the dust seal and the area around Ihe piston for signs of damage, corrosion or
models with ABS and diesel models)
brake fluid leaks. If evident, refer to Section 3 and overhaul the caliper assembly. 14 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder, to allow for the extra depth of the friction material. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not oeen overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off. A Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. 15 Apply a little high temperature brake grease to the contact surfaces of the pad backing plates: take great care not to allow any grease onto the pad friction linings. Similarly, apply brake grease to the pad contact points on the caliper bracket - again take care not to apply excess grease, which may contaminate the pads. 16 Place the brake pads in position on the caliper bracket, with the friction material facing the surfaces of the brake disc. Feed the wear indicator cable through the caliper body aperture.
Petrol models without ABS 17 Pivot the caliper body down over the brake pads, then refit the guide pin and clip.
2.7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 18 Fit the caliper body in position on the caliper bracket, then fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
AH models 19 Check that the caliper body can slide freely on the guide pins. Ensure that the flexible hydraulic hose is not twisted or kinked In any way. Turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the hose does not chafe against the suspension or steering gear. 20 Where applicable, reconnect the pad wear indicator wiring and press it into the retaining clips on the suspension. 21 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front caliper. 22 With both sets of front brake pads fitted, depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal pedal pressure is restored. Any sponginess felt when depressing the pedal is most probably due to air trapped inside the hydraulic system - refer to Section 11 and bleed the braking system before progressing any further. 23 Refit the roadwheels. and lower the vehicle to the ground. 24 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks. 25 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly,
2.8a Withdraw the outboard... 2.8b ... and inboard brake pads from the caliper bracket

9*4 Braking system
3.5 Unscrew the caliper upper guide pin bolt and remove tho caliper body (torn the bracket
3 Front brake caliper -removal, overhaul and refitting ^

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at the beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers of handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then |ack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands {see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake pads as described In Section 2. 3 To minimise fluid loss dunng the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then
tig hi en
it down onto a piece of polythene, to obtain an airtight seat. Alternatively, use a brake hose clamp to seal off the flexible hose running to the caliper.

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Warning: Do not use an ordinary G-clamp or mole grips for this purpose, as these can easily damage the hydraulic hose Internally, possibly leading to failure. 4 Clean the area surrounding the brake hose union, then slacken ft using a ring spanner. It won't be possible to separate the union completely without twisting the hose ai this slage.
3.7 Unscrew the two securing bolts (arrowed) and remove the caliper mounting bracket from the hub carrier
5 On petrol models without ABS, unscrew the caliper upper guide pin bolt using a hex bit or Allen key and remove the caliper body from the bracket (see illustration). 6 Hold the brake hose and rotate the caliper to unscrew the hose union from the caliper body. Cover the open ends of the union and the caliper fluid inlet, to prevent dirt Ingress. Alternatively, Ihe flexible brake hose may be separated from the rigid brake pipe, at the bracket mounted on the Inner wheel arch. 7 If desired, the caliper mounting bracket can be removed from the hub carrier after unscrewing ihe two securing bolts (see Illustration) but note that locking compound must be applied to the bolt threads on refitting.
Overhaul Note: Before commencing work, ensure that the appropriate caliper overhaul kit
Ss
obtained. 8 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all (races of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the dust, as It
Is
a health hazard. 9 Place a small block of wood between the caliper body and tho piston, to act as padding. Remove the piston by applying a Jet of low pressure compressed air (such as that pioduced by a tyre foot pump) to the fluid inlel port.

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Warning: Protect your hands and eyes when using compressed air In this manner • brake fluid moy be ejected under pressure when the pisfon pops out of Its bore. 10 Peel the dusi seal from the piston, then use a soft, blunt instrument (ie not a screwdriver) to extract the piston seal from the caliper bore. 11 Thoroughly clean all components, U9tng only methylated spint or clean hydraulic fluid, Never use mineral-based solvents such as petrol or paraffin, which will attack Ihe hydraulic system rubber components. 12 The caliper piston seal, the dust seal and the bleed nipple dust cap, a/e oniy available as part of a seat kit. Since the manufacturers recommend that the piston seal and dust seal are renewed whenever they are disturbed, all of these components should be discarded on disassembly and new ones fitted on reassembly as a matter of course. 13 Carefully examine all parts of the caliper assembly, looking for signs of wear or damage. In particular, the cylinder bore and piston must be free from any signs of scratches, corrosion or wear. If there is any doubt about ihe condition of any part of the caliper, the relevant port should be renewed Note that the piston surface is plated, and must not be polished with emery or similar abrasives to remove corrosion or scratches. In addition, the pistons are matched to the caliper bores and can only be renewed as a part of a complete caliper assembly. 14 Check that the threads in the caliper body and the mounting bracket are in good condition, Check that both guide pins are
undamaged, and (when cleaned) a reasons^' tight sliding fit In the mounting bracket bores. 15 UsecompressedairtOblow clear the IkuJ passages. Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed
air.
16 Before commencing reassembly, en$vr« that all components are spotlessly-clean
and
dry. 17 Soak the new piston seal m clean hydraulic fluid, and fit it to the groove
In
tftt cylinder bore, using your fingers only (rift tools) to manipulate it into place. 18 Fit the new dust seal inner ftp to tne cylinder groove, smear clean hydraulic Hud over the piston and caliper cylinder
bore, and
twist ihe pfaton into the dust seal. Press tne piston squarely Into the cylinder, then sildt the dust seal outer lip to tho groove in we piston
Refitting 19 Where applicable, refit the caliper mounting bracket to thB hub earner. Ccaitto threads ol the mounting bolts with locking compound, then tighten them to the speclfed torque. 20 Hold the brake hose and rotate Ihe calip* to screw the hose union back Into the caliper body. 21 On petrol models without ABS, place the caliper In position on the bracket and tighter the caliper upper guide pin bolt to the specified torque. 22 Relit ihe brake pads as described m Section 2. 23 On all models, tighten the brake hose-to-callper union securely. 24 Check that the caliper slides smoothly
on
its guide pins. 25 Where applicable, remove the polytbste from the master oyhnder rasarvoir cap, or remove tho clomp from the fluid hose, ai applicable. 26 Bleed tho hydraulic fluid circuit as desenbed m Section 11. Note that if rootMf part of the system has been disturbed, < should only be necessary to bleed tha relevant front circuit, 27 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly to bring ihe pads into contact with ihe brake disc, and ensure that normal pedal
pressure is
restored. 28 Refit the roadwheel, and lower tha veti'cfc lo ihe ground.
4 Brake disc -
inspection,
removal
and
refitting
Inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jaefcup the front of the car and support It securely
oft
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support1,.
Remove the front roadwhesls.
expert22 f
a http://rutracker.org

9*8 Braking system
6 Carefully examine the Inside of tho drum. Light scoring of the friction surface is normal, but if heavy scoring Is found, the drum must be renewed. 7 It is usual to find a lip on the dmm's inboard edge which consists of a mixture of rust and brake dust: this should be carefully scraped away, to leave a smooth surface which can be polished with fine (120 to 150-grade) emery paper. If, however, the tip is due to the friction surface being recessed by excessive wear, then the drum must be renewed. 6 If the drum Is thought to be excessively worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be measured at several points using an internal micrometer. Take measurements In pairs, the second at right-angles to the first, and compare the two, to check for signs of ovality. Provided that it does not enlarge the dium to beyond the specified maximum diameter, it may be possible to have the drum refinished by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible, Ihe drums on both sides must be renewed. Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTH drums must be refinished. to maintain a consistent Internal diameter on both sides.
Refitting 9 II a new brake drum is to be Installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating thai may have been applied to its internal fnction surfaces. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the sedated strut wheel, lo allow Ihe drum lo poss over the brake shoes • see Section S for details. 10 II tho original dfum is being refitted, align the marks made on the drum and hub before removal, then lit the drum over the hub. Refit the locating studs and tighten them to the specified torque. 11 Depress the footbrake repeatedly to expand the brake shoes against the drum, and ensure that normal pedal pressure Is restored. 12 Check and if necessary adjust the handbrake cable as described In Section 9. 13 Refit tho roadwheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
7 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting jS

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Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at tho beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers ot handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the brake drum fsee Section 6). 2 Remove the brake shoes (see Section 5). 3 To minimise fluid loss during the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten it down onto a piece of polythene, lo obtain an airtight seal.
the hydraulic pipe from the rear of the wheel cylinder 4 Clean the brake backplate around Ihe wheel cylinder mounting boits and the hydraulic pipe union, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect Ihe hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Cover the open ends of the pipe and the master cylinder to prevent dirt ingress, 5 Remove the securing bolts, then withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate (soe Illustration).
Overhaul Note: Before commencing woric, ensure that the appropriate wheel cylinder overhaul kit is obtained. 6 Clean tho assembly thoroughly, using only methylated spirit or clean brake fluid, 7 Peel off both rubber dust covers, then use paint or similar to mark one ot the pistons so that the pistons are not interchanged on reassembly. 8 Withdraw both pistons and tho spring. 9 Discard the rubber piston cups and the dust covers. These components should be renewed as a matter of course, and are available 3s part of an overhaul kit, which also Includes the bleed nipple dust cap. 10 Check the condition of the cylinder bore and the pistons - the surfaces must be perfect and free from scratches, scoring and corrosion, It is advisable to renew the complete wheel cylinder if there is any doubt as to the condition ot the cylinder bore or pistons. 11 Ensure thai all components are clean and dry. The pistons, spring and cups should be
8.4 Location of brake tight switch-LHD model shown
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate fitted wet, using hydraulic fluid as a lubricant • soak them in clean fluid before installation. 12 Fit the cups to the pistons, ensuring that they are the correct way round. Use only your fingers (no tools) to manipulate the cups into position. 13 Fit the first piston to the cylinder, taking care not to distort the cup. If the original pistons are being re-used, ihe marks
made on
dismantling should be used to ensure that the pistons are refitted to their original bores, 14 Refit the spring and the second pfston. 15 Apply a smear of rubber grease to Ihe exposed end of each piston and to the dust cover sealing lips, then fit Ihe dust covers to each end of the wheel cylinder.
Refitting 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearirg in mind the following points: a) Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. b) Refit the brake shoes as desenbod
In
Section 5. and refit the brake drum
as
described in Section 6. c) Before refitting the roadwheel
and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, remove the polythene from the fluid reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic
system
as described in Section f
1.
Note that if
nc
other part of the system has been disturbed, it should only bo necessary
to
bleed the relevant rear circuit.
8 Stop-light switch • & adjustment, removal J? and refitting
Adjustment 1 The switch plunger operates on a ratchet 2 If adjustment Is required, pull the plunge fully out - (he 9witch then sell-adjusts as the brake pedal Is applied and released.
Removal 3 Ensure that the ignition Is switched to OfF. 4 For Improved access, remove the driver's side lower facia panel, as described in Chapter 11 (see Illustration). 5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37

Suspension and steering 10*4
3.2 Release the brake fluid line (and where applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from the strut
3 Front suspension strut -removal, overhaul and refitting *

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Warning: If renewing the Strut damper during overhaul both the left and right hand dampers should be renewed as a pair, to preserve the handling characteristics of the vehicle.
Removal 1 Chock the resr wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the fronl of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant roadwheel. 2 Release the brake fluid line (and wnere
3.3a Remove the two bolts (arrowed)...
applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from Ihe bracket on the base of the strut (see illustration). 3 Remove the two nuts from Ihe bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub carrier, noting that the nuls fit on the rear side of the strut (see illustrations). Withdraw the bolts, and support the hub carrier. Discard the bolts and nuts • new ones should be used on refitting. 4 Have an assistant support the strut from underneath the wheel arch then, working In the engine compartment, unscrew the two bolts and release the two stud clips that secure the strut upper mounting plate to the suspension turret. Do not unscrew the centre damper rod nut yet. Release the lower end ol the strut from the hub carrier, then withdraw the assembly from under the wheel arch.
3.7 Fully unsorew and remove tho damper rod top nut 3.3a Withdraw the washer.
3.3b ... and detach the lower end of the strut from the hub carrier
Overhaul Note: Suitable coil spring compressor fools will be required for this operation, and a
new
damper rod top nut must be used on reassembly. 5 Clamp Ihe lower end of Ihe strut in a vice fitted with jaw protectors - take care to avois deforming the mounting bracket at the lower end of the strut. Remove the protective plastic cap from the top of the strut. 6 Fit suitable spring compressors to the coil spring, and compress Ihe spring sutllciently to enable the upper spring seat to be turned by nand.

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Warning: Ensure that the coil spring Is compressed sufficiently to remove all the tension from
tha
upper spring seat, before attempting to remove the damper rod nut. 7 Fully unscrew and remove the damper rod top nut. Countorhofd the domper rod. using
a
suitable Allen key or hex bit. as tho nut * unscrewed • do not allow the rod to rotate inside the damper (see Illustration). Discard the nut • a new one must be used on reassembly. 8 Withdraw tho washer, bush, upper mounting plate and upper spring seat • make a careful note of the order of assembly (see illustrations). 9 Withdraw the spring, complete with the compressors, thon v/ithdraw the dust cover, bump rubber and Ihe lower spring seat rubber (where fitted) (see illustrations).

Suspension and steering
10*195

5 Front suspension >,•> tower arm balljoint -renewal ^
The balljoint is integral with the suspension ower arm (see Illustration). If the balljoint is worn or damaged, the complete lower arm oust be renewed as described In Section 4.
6 Front suspension ^ anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting s^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands •we Jacking and vehicle support). If required, wove the relevant roadwheels. 2 Refer to the Chapter 4D and unbolt the hnt section of the exhaust pipe. 3 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on ether side of the vehicle. Similarly, unscrew
ine
bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings lo the suspension sub-frame (refer to the Derations in Section 4). 4 lower the anti-roll bar away from the underside of the vehicle. 5 Inspect the rubber bushes for cracks or ietertoratlon, If renewal Is necessary, slide the dd bushes from the bar, and fit the now items, using soapy water as a lubricant. Do rot apply grease or oil as this will attack the •ifiber. 9 Check the anti-roll bar for signs of damage, war or serious corrosion. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing In
mnd
the following points: sj
D'rw
up the holes af the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension iov/erarm. til
Tighten
all fixings to the specified torque, but do not do this until the vehicle is resting on its roadwheels, and the suspension has been settled, or damage to the bushes may result.
7.5 Slacken and remove the rear hub nut
5.1 Front suspension lower arm balljoint
7 Rear hub bearings -renewal
Note: 77ie bearing will be destroyed during the removal operation, and a new rear hub/ bearing assembly must be used on refitting -the old hub cannot be re-used. A new rear hub nut must be used on refitting. 1 The rear hub bearings are integral with the hubs themselves, and cannot be renewed separately, tf the bearings require renewal, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as follows. 2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle slands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 3 Remove the brake drum as described In Chapter 9. Do not depress the brake pedal whilst the brake drum is removed. 4 Prise the dust cap from the hub. using a mallet and punch. 5 Slacken and remove the hub nut and recover the washer/spacers (see illustration). Caution: The nut Is tightened to a very high torque. Use a long extension bar to remove the nut and ensure that you have access to torque wrench capable of tightening the new nut to the speclfiod torque setting, before removing the existing nut 6 Withdraw Ihe hub and bearing assembly from the stub axle, and recover the inner washer. Discard the hub nut - a new one must be used on refitting.
1
8.3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining bolt (arrowed)
7 Thoroughly clean tho stub axle, then slide the inner washer and new hub assembly into position. 8 Fit the outer washer, then thread a new hub nut onto the end of the stub axle by hand - do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 9 Refit the brake drum (Chapter 9). 10 Tighten the hub nut to the specified torque, then check that the hub spins smoothly and freely. Carefully tap the dust cap into position over the nut. 11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the road-wheel bolts to the specified torque.
8 Rear suspension components -removal, overhaul and refitting ^
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.
Damper
Removal 2 Using a trolley jack positioned under the trailing arm, raise the trailing arm to take the strain from the damper. 3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining boll (see Illustration). 4 Lower the jack and allow the damper to separate from the trailing arm. Take care to avoid displacing the coil spring. 5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (see illustration). 6 Lower the damper away from the suspension subframe. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the damper upper and lower retaining bolts to the specified torque, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the road-wheels • this prevents the damper bushes from being strained.
Coil spring
Removal 8 With reference to the previous sub-Section.
8.5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (arrowed)

Suspension and steering 10*9
10.3 Unplug the multi-way wiring connector from the rear of tho lock assembly
10 Ignition switch/ steering column lock • ^ removal and refitting ^
Caul/on: The Ignition switch/steering column lock has on integral and-tho ft mechanism. Any attempt to rofafe tho lock shaft using tools (lo without using the correct key) results in the steering column tebg locked and Irreparable damage to the lock mechanism. This renders the vehicle
unusable
until tho lock assembly Is renewed.
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual}. 2 Remove the lower section of the steering column shroud.
11.3a Unscrew the fixings using an Allen key...
f
10.4 On vehicles fitted with a Flat Immobiliser, uncllp the receiver ring from the lock cylinder 3 Unplug the multi-way wiring connector from the rear of the lock assembly (see illustration). 4 On vehicles fitted with a Fiat immobiliser. uncltp the receiver ring from the lock cylinder (see illustration). Insert the key Into the ignition switch and turn it to the ON position. 5 Working underneath the steering column, insert a small fiat bladed screwdriver into the access slot in the base of the lock assembly bracket. Depress Ihe release button and withdraw the lock assembly from Its bracket, complete with the key (see illustrations).
Refitting 6 To refit the lock, first inserl the hey and turn it to the ON position. Depress the release button slide the assembly into the retaining bracket until the release button clicks Into the access slot. 7 Turn the key back to the OFF position, then reconnect the wmng connector. 8 Relit the steering column lower shroud. 9 Reconnect the negative cable to the battery terminal.
11 Steering column - ^ removal, overhaul and refitting jK
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the steenng wheel (Section 9).
10.5a Insert a small, flat-bladed screwdriver into the access slot in the base of the lock assembly bracket
10.5b Depress tho release button and withdraw the lock cylinder
3 Unscrew the fixings using an Allen key and remove the upper and lower halves of the plastic shroud from the steering column (see illustrations) 4 Working as described in Chapter 12. Section 14. remove the column stalk switch assembly, 5 Unplug the wiring from the rear of the ignition switch/column lock at the multi-way connector • refer to Section 10 for details. 6 Working in the drivers footweli. peel back the carpet trim to gam access to the base of the steering column. Slacken the nut and clamp bolt on the lower half of the universal joint (see illustration). 7 Remove Ihe nuts from the four upper steenng column mounting bolts and lower the assembly away from the bulkhead bracket (see illustration).
11.7 Remove the nuts from the four upper steering column mounting bolts (two arrowed, two concealed)
11.3b ... end remove the upper and lower halves of the plastic shroud from the 11-6 Slacken the nut (arrowed) and clamp steering column bolt on the lower half of the universal joint

10*10 Suspension and steering
12.8 Slacken and remove the two steering goar-to-subirame bolts (arrowed) 8 Disconnect the universal joint at the base of the steering column from the steering gear pinion. Note the position of tho safety clip • this must be refitted In the same position on reassembly. 9 Remove Ihe steering column from the vehicle.
Overhaul 10 The hoight adjustment mechanism can be removed by removing the nut from the end of the pivot shaft and withdrawing it. 11 The upper and lower bushes are held in position by staking at the ends of the column tube. Relieve the staking using a mallet and punch to extract the bushes. 12 Check for excessive radial and axial play In the universal joints at both ends of the lower steering column. The lower section of the steering column may be renewed separately if required, by slackening the clamp bolt and detaching It from the upper section. 13 If the vehicle has been Involved in an accident, check for deformation In all ol the steering column components, particularly the mounting bracket and centre tube. Renew as required.
Refitting 14 Refitting the steering column is by following the removal procedure in reverse. Tighten all fixings to Ihe specified torque setting.
12 ManuaJ steering fk gear assembly -removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front road wheels. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reference to Section 11. slacken the clamp boil at the base of steering column lower universal |o!nt, to separate it rrom the steering gear pinion.
12.9 Unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (arrowed) 4 Remove the safety clip from the steering gear pinion, noting Its fitted position to aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and dotach the track* rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, using a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, remove the clips and detach the gear selection cable and the reverse gear inhibitor cable from the steenng gear. 7 Delach the gear selector rod from the top of the steering gear, 8 Slacken and remove the two steering gear-to-subframe bolts (see Illustration) 9 Support the underside of the transmission using a trolley jack, then unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (see illustration) 10 With reference to Chapter 4D. unbolt the front section of the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter. 11 Unclip the plastic steenng gear pinion cup from ihe bulkhead. 12 Withdraw the steenng gear through the wheel arch.
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following: a) Tighten all fixings lo the specified torque settings. b) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest opportunity by a Fiat dealer or a tyro specialist.
13.10 Disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes (arrowed) from the power steering gear
13 Power steering * gear assembly - J removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply tN handbrake, then jack up the front ot thi vehicle and support securely on axle standi (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front roadwheels to improve access. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In tto Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reforence to Section 11, slacken ihe clamp bolt at the base of steering cohimn lower universal joint, to separate ll from Ihe steering gear pinion. 4 Remove the safety clip from the steenng gear pinion, noting its fitted position lo aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound Insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and detach the track-rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, usty a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, ranwvi the clips and detach the power steering fluid pipe from the steering gear casing. 7 With reference to Chapter 40, unboil lbs front section of the exhaust pipe from the manifold and catalytic converter/intermediate silencer (as applicable). 8 Refer to Chaptor 7A and disconnect the gear selector rod from the relay rod Disconnect the relay rod from the mounting on the top of the steering gear casing. 9 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or
an
old poultry baster. 10 Slacken the unions and disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes from the power steering gear. Be prepared for an amount
erf
fluid loss - position a container underneath the unions and pad the surrounding area wth absorbent rags (see Illustration). 11 Slacken and remove the two sleeting gear-to-subframe bolts (see illustrations). 12 Support the engine and tronsmission assembly using either blocks of wood positioned under the transmission casing,
or a
lifting beam positioned across the engine
bay

13.11a Slacken and remove the right-hand...