2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
^ - / //
4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.36a Relay guard mounting nuts 4.36b Battery tray and mounting bolts 4.36c Disconnect the engine wiring harness located above the transmission .
4.36d ... the inner wiring plug ...
sure that the dnveshaft is positioned to clear Ihe lower suspension arm when the engine is removed. 34 Disconnect the left-hand driveahaft using the same procedure
4.41 Engine wiring harness connections to the battery positive cable
4.36e ... and the outer wiring plug
35 Remove the exhaust front downpipe witfl reference to Chapter 4D. Diesel engines 36 Unbolt and remove the roiay guard then disconnect the wiring as applicable and unbolt the battery tray (see Illustrations). 37 Disconnect tho gear selector cable from the transmission by removing the retaining plate and prising the socket end off Ihe ball on the lever. Use a pair of pliors to pull out the plate. Tie the cable to the bulkhead (see illustration). 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the ievor on the top of the transmission, 39 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct by unscrewing the two bolls securing the duct to the valve cover and loosening the clip securing the duct to the air cleaner. Refer to Chapter 4C if necessary.
4.37 Tie tho gear selector cable to the bulkhead
40 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the vacuum pump on the left-hand side of the cylinder head and disconnect the wiring plug located over the transmission, 41 Unscrew ihe nuts and disconnect the engine wiring harness from the battery positive cable (see illustration) 42 At the fuel filter unscrew the union bolt and disconnect the fuei delivery hose lor the injection pump. Use polythene and an elastic band to cover the end of the hose (see illustrations). 43 At the fuel injection pump unscrew the clip and disconnect thie fuel return hose (see illustration). 44 Disconnect the radiator top hose from the thermostat housing on tho left-hand side of the cylinder head, and also disconnect the healer hose at Ihe engine (see illustrations). 45 Disconnect the heater return hose and expansion tank hose from the elbow on the
4.42a Unscrew the union bolt and disconnect the fuel delivery hose from the fuel filter 4.42b Cover the end of the hose to prevent dust entry 4.43 Disconnecting the fuel return hose from the fuel injection pump
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.44a Disconnecting tho radiator top hose from the thermostat housing
4.45b ... and expansion tank hose
lofi-nand side of the cylinder head, From the top ot the radiator and from the expansion tank (see Illustrations). 46 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from the elbow on the cylinder head.
4.49e ... and the adjustment lockbolt...
4.44b Disconnecting the heater hose st the engine
4.49a Remove the front bracket bolt...
47 On models with a speedometer cable, disconnect the cable from the transmission. 48 On models with an electronic speedometer, if necessary disconnect the winng connector on the support bracket. The cable may be left
4.49f ... and tie the power steering pump to the bulkhead
. m " • V;
<4
4.45a Disconnecting the heater return hose...
4.49b ... the belt adjustment bolt...
attached if Ihe transmission Is not being detached from the engine. 49 On models fitted with power steering, unbolt the power steering pump from the rear right-hand side of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie it to one side on the bulkhead so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. To do (his first remove the front bracket bolt, remove the belt adjustment bolt, remove the rear through-bolt, lift away the cover and remove the adjustment lockbolt (see illustrations). On models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position It clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refrigerant pipes/hoses. 50 Disconnect the coolant purge hoses from the top of the radiator and expansion tank (seo illustrations). 51 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the injection pump (see Chapter 4Q.
4.50a Disconnecting the coolant purge hoses from the radiator...
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
60 At the otl filter, unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the oil cooler lines/hoses then remove the oil cooler from the vehicle (see Illustration). Be prepared for some oil leakage. Note the fitted position of the hoses before disconnecting them so that they can be refitted correctly. 61 Disconnect the reversing light wiring from Ihe switch on the front of the transmission (see illustration) 82 Using an Allen key, unscrew the bolts securing the inner ends of the driveshafts to the flanges on the transmission. The right-hand driveshaft is disconnected from the Intermediate shaft flange on the rear of the engine. Recover the plates beneath the heads ol the driveshaft bolls (see illustrations). 63 Unscrew the bolts securing the front sv/lvel hub assemblies to the struts. Also
4.59c Removing the radiator from the vehicle
4.62a Use an Allen key to unscrew the inner driveshaft bolts
release the flexible brake hoses from the struts. 64 Move the swivel hub assemblies outwards and support the inner ends of the dnveshafts on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Take care not to strain the flexible brake hoses. 65 Remove the exhaust front pipe with reference to Chaptor 4D. If difficulty is expenenced in separating Ihe front pipe from the intermediate pipe, it may prove easier to remove the complete exhaust system. Ail models 66 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine and transmission lifting eyes (see illustration). The left-hand eye is located on the transmission and the right-hand one on the right-hand side of the engine, Take the weight of the engine/transmission.
4.60 Loosening the union nuts securing the oil cooler lines to the oil filter housing
4.62b Removing the driveshaft bolts and plates
67 Working boneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing tne rear engine mounting to the underbody and transmission, and withdraw the mounting. 68 In the engine compartment, unscrew the bolts securing the right-hand engine mounting to the body and engine. For additional working room completely remove the mounting. 69 Unscrew the boils securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body. For additional working room completely remove Ihe mounting. 70 With the help of an assistant lower the engine/transmission from the engino compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components (see illustration). Ideally lower the unit onto a low trolley so that it may be withdrawn from under the vehicle. Disconnect the hoist from ihe assembly.
4.61 Disconnecting the reversing light wiring
4.66 Attaching a hoist to tho ongine and transmission assembly
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.70 Lowering the engine/transmission assembly to Ihe floor
4.79a Withdraw the Intermediate shaft...
Separation 71 Rest Ihe engine and transmission assembly on a firm, flat surface, and use wooden blocks as wedges to keep the unit steady. 72 Note the routing and location of the wiring
4.77 Removing the transmission lower cover
4.79b ... and recover the dust boot
harness on the engine/transmission assembly, Ihen methodically disconnect It. 73 Remove the starter motor (Chapter 5A). Petrol engines 74 Noto the location of the earth loads on the
4.78 Removing the bolts securing the intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block
transmission support bracket on the rear of the cylinder block, then unscrew the securing bolts and move the leads to one side. 75 Unscrew the bolts on the transmission and remove the support bracket. 78 Unscrew tho remaining bolts and remove the transmission lower cover. Diesel engines 77 Unscrew the bolts and remove the transmission lower cover (see Illustration). 78 Unscrew the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on Ihe rear of the cylinder block (see illustration). 79 Withdraw the Intermediate shaft through the bracket and recover the dust boot from tho inner end (see illustrations). 80 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the rpm sensor from the transmission (see illustrations). Manual transmission models 81 Support the transmission with blocks ol wood. 82 Unscrew the transmission-to-engine bolts. Also unscrew Ihe nut securing the transmission to the rear ot the cylinder block (see illustrations). 83 Lift the transmission complete with driveshafts directly from the roar of Ihe engine, taking care to keep It level so that the transmission input shaft does not hang on the clutch (see illustration), Automatic transmission models 84 Support the transmission with blocks of wood.
4.83 Separating the engine from tho transmission (petrol engine)
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).
Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).
Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
bolt (Bosch)
4 Fuel system -priming and bleeding
The Injection pump Is self-priming and no special procedures are necessary to prime the fuel system. However where the luei system has been completely drained it (s helpful to loosen the injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor In order to purge trooped air.
S Fuel injection pump • removal and refitting 5
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual) 2 Remove the timing belt and Injection pump sprocket aa described in Chapter 2C. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the fuel injection pump, with reference to Section 3. 4 Loosen the clip, or undo the banjo union, and disconnect the fuel supply hose. Recover the sealing washers from the banjo union, where applicable. Cover the open end of the hose, and raflt and cover the banjo bolt to keep dirt out. 5 Disconnect the main fuel return pipe and the injector leak-off return pipe banjo union. Recover the sealing washers from the banjo union Again, cover the open end of the hose and the banjo bolt to keep dirt out.
6.2a Remove the rubber bung ...
k
5.10a Injection pump lower mounting bolt removal (Bosch) 6 Disconnect all relevant wiring from the pump. 7 Unscrew the union nuts securing the Injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump and injectors. Counterhold the unions on Ihe pump, while unscrewing the pipe-to-pump union nuts. Remove the pipes as a set. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out. using small plastic begs, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 8 Mark the fuel Injection pump in relation to the mounting bracket, using a scriber or felt tip pen. This will ensure Ihe correct pump timing is retained when refitting. 9 Unscrew the bolt(s) from Ihe rear support bracket (see illustration) 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts/bolt, remove the special bracket, then remove the injection pump from the mounting bracket/housing (see illustrations).
Refitting 11 Locate the injection pump In the mounting bracket and align the marks mode on the pump and bracket before removal. If a new pump is being fitted, transfer the mark from the old pump to give an approximate setting. Locate the special bracket and fit the nuts/bolt loosely. 12 Refil Ihe rear support bracket and fit the bolts loosely. 13 Set up the injection timing, as described In Sections 7 and 8 (as applicable). 14 Refil and reconnect the injector fuel pipes. 15 Reconnect all relevant wiring to the pump. 16 Reconnect the fuel supply and return hoses, and tighten the unions, as applicable.
6.2b ... when checking the injection pump timing dynamically. Timing marks shown on flywheel and transmission casing
5.10b Removing the special Injection pump mounting brackot (Bosch)
5.10c Removing tho injection pump (Bosch) Use new sealing washers on the banjo unions. 17 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator . cable with reference to Section 3. i 16 Refit the Injection pump sprocket end timing belt as described in Chapter 2C. I 19 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal 20 Start the engine, and check for any ' leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start It may be necessary to loos® the injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to porgt trapped air. 21 Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed as described in Chapter 1B.
6 injection timing -checking methods
1 Checking the injection timing Is not e routlno operation. It Is only necessary aftorth* Injection pump has been disturbed. I 2 Dynamic timing equipment does exist, bulit ' is unlikely to be available to the hame I mechanic. Tho equipment works by I converting pressure pulses in an Injector pips into electrical signals. If such equipment« available, use it In accordance with Its maker's instructions using the liming mark
on
the flywheel (see illustrations). 3 Static timing as described In this Chaptai gives good results If carried out carefully. A dial test indicator will be needed, with probes and adapters appropriate to the typo of infection pump. Read through the procedures beto starting work, to find out what ts Involved.
5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor