1994 FIAT PUNTO Panel

9*8 Braking system
6 Carefully examine the Inside of tho drum. Light scoring of the friction surface is normal, but if heavy scoring Is found, the drum must be renewed. 7 It is usual to find a lip on the dmm's inboard edge which consists of a mixture of rust and brake dust: this should be carefully scraped away, to leave a smooth surface which can be polished with fine (120 to 150-grade) emery paper. If, however, the tip is due to the friction surface being recessed by excessive wear, then the drum must be renewed. 6 If the drum Is thought to be excessively worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be measured at several points using an internal micrometer. Take measurements In pairs, the second at right-angles to the first, and compare the two, to check for signs of ovality. Provided that it does not enlarge the dium to beyond the specified maximum diameter, it may be possible to have the drum refinished by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible, Ihe drums on both sides must be renewed. Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTH drums must be refinished. to maintain a consistent Internal diameter on both sides.
Refitting 9 II a new brake drum is to be Installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating thai may have been applied to its internal fnction surfaces. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the sedated strut wheel, lo allow Ihe drum lo poss over the brake shoes • see Section S for details. 10 II tho original dfum is being refitted, align the marks made on the drum and hub before removal, then lit the drum over the hub. Refit the locating studs and tighten them to the specified torque. 11 Depress the footbrake repeatedly to expand the brake shoes against the drum, and ensure that normal pedal pressure Is restored. 12 Check and if necessary adjust the handbrake cable as described In Section 9. 13 Refit tho roadwheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
7 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting jS

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at tho beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers ot handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the brake drum fsee Section 6). 2 Remove the brake shoes (see Section 5). 3 To minimise fluid loss during the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten it down onto a piece of polythene, lo obtain an airtight seal.
the hydraulic pipe from the rear of the wheel cylinder 4 Clean the brake backplate around Ihe wheel cylinder mounting boits and the hydraulic pipe union, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect Ihe hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Cover the open ends of the pipe and the master cylinder to prevent dirt ingress, 5 Remove the securing bolts, then withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate (soe Illustration).
Overhaul Note: Before commencing woric, ensure that the appropriate wheel cylinder overhaul kit is obtained. 6 Clean tho assembly thoroughly, using only methylated spirit or clean brake fluid, 7 Peel off both rubber dust covers, then use paint or similar to mark one ot the pistons so that the pistons are not interchanged on reassembly. 8 Withdraw both pistons and tho spring. 9 Discard the rubber piston cups and the dust covers. These components should be renewed as a matter of course, and are available 3s part of an overhaul kit, which also Includes the bleed nipple dust cap. 10 Check the condition of the cylinder bore and the pistons - the surfaces must be perfect and free from scratches, scoring and corrosion, It is advisable to renew the complete wheel cylinder if there is any doubt as to the condition ot the cylinder bore or pistons. 11 Ensure thai all components are clean and dry. The pistons, spring and cups should be
8.4 Location of brake tight switch-LHD model shown
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate fitted wet, using hydraulic fluid as a lubricant • soak them in clean fluid before installation. 12 Fit the cups to the pistons, ensuring that they are the correct way round. Use only your fingers (no tools) to manipulate the cups into position. 13 Fit the first piston to the cylinder, taking care not to distort the cup. If the original pistons are being re-used, ihe marks
made on
dismantling should be used to ensure that the pistons are refitted to their original bores, 14 Refit the spring and the second pfston. 15 Apply a smear of rubber grease to Ihe exposed end of each piston and to the dust cover sealing lips, then fit Ihe dust covers to each end of the wheel cylinder.
Refitting 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearirg in mind the following points: a) Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. b) Refit the brake shoes as desenbod
In
Section 5. and refit the brake drum
as
described in Section 6. c) Before refitting the roadwheel
and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, remove the polythene from the fluid reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic
system
as described in Section f
1.
Note that if
nc
other part of the system has been disturbed, it should only bo necessary
to
bleed the relevant rear circuit.
8 Stop-light switch • & adjustment, removal J? and refitting
Adjustment 1 The switch plunger operates on a ratchet 2 If adjustment Is required, pull the plunge fully out - (he 9witch then sell-adjusts as the brake pedal Is applied and released.
Removal 3 Ensure that the ignition Is switched to OfF. 4 For Improved access, remove the driver's side lower facia panel, as described in Chapter 11 (see Illustration). 5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.

Braking system 9®9
6.8 Brake light switch assembly f Hexagonal' 3 Spacer section 4 Mounting bracket 2 Bush S Locating lug 6 Twist the switch anti-clockwise through about half a turn, and withdraw the switch from the pedal bracket. Note the position of the spacer and fitting bush.
10.3a Prise the bung (arrowed) from the access hatch in the rear of the relevant brake backplate
10.3b Unhook the cable end from the brake shoe lever (arrowed)
Refitting 7 Depress the brake pedal and hold it in this position. 8 Fit the bush and spacer over the end of the switch, then Insert the switch Into its mounting bracket. Rotate the switch body clockwise through 60° until the locating lug is felt to engage in its recess (seo illustration). 9 Release the brake pedal and allow It to rest against the switch spacer tab - this adjusts the position of the switch body Inside Ihe bush. 10 Now depress the brake pedal again - this has the effect of breaking off the spacer tab and fixes the position of the switch Inside the bush. 11 Restore Ihe wiring at the connector, then refit the facia lower trim panel. 12 Switch on the ignition and test the operation of the brake lights.
9 Handbrake - ^ checking and adjustment
Checking 1 Apply the handbrake by pulling it through three to four clicks of the ratchet mechanism and check that this locks the rear wheels, holding the vehicle stationary on an incline. In this position, there should be sufficient reserve travel in the handbrake lever to allow for brako shoe wear and cable stretching. If not. Ihe handbrake mechanism Is need of adjustment.
Adjustment 2 Remove the securing screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim cover - refer to Chapter 11. Section 19. for details. 3 Pull the handbrake lever through three clicks of the ratchet mechanism and leave it in this position. 4 The adjustment mechanism is underneath the handbrake lever. Hold the locknut with a ring spanner, then rotate the adjustment screw through one turn anticlockwise, so that the adjustment mechanism tensions the handbrake cable draw bar (see illustration). 5 Release the handbrake lever, then re-apply
10.5a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) securing the handbrake cable bracket to the suspension lower arm
the handbrake it and check the operation of the handbrake as described in paragraph 1. Repeat the adjustment procedure as necessary. 6 Chock the front wheels then |ack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Release the handbrake lever and check that the rear wheels are free to rotate v/ithout binding. Re-adjust the cable if the brakes appear to be binding. 7 On completion, tighten the cable locknut and refit the handbrake lever trim cover. Lower the car to the ground.
10 Handbrake cables -removal and refitting
Removal 1 There are two rear handbrake cables, one on each side of the vehicle. To renew either rear cable, proceed as follows. 2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of tho vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Release the handbrake fully, 3 Working under the rear of the car, prise the bung from the access hatch in the rear of the relevant brake backplato, Using pointed-nose pliers, compress the cable spring and release the cable end from the brake shoe lever (see Illustrations). 4 Extract the handbrake outer cable from the brake backplate. then withdraw the end of the cable from the brake assembly. 5 Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the handbrake cable bracket to the suspension lower arm. Release the cable from the clips on the floorpan heatshield (see Illustrations).
10.5b Release the cable from the clips (arrowed) on the floorpsn heatshield

9*10 Braking system
10.6 Disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable (arrowed) from the draw bar 6 Working inside ihe vehicle, remove Ihe screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim panel (refer to Section 9 for more detail). At the base of the handbrake lever, full/ slacken off the handbrake adjusting screw and locknut, to remove oil tension from the cable draw bar, then disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable from the cable draw bar (see illustration) 7 Release the cable grommet from tho floor-pan, then withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
Refitting 8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the cables are securely fastened In the clips on the floorpan beetshield and lower suspension a/m. b) On completion, check the handbrake adiustment, as described in Section 9.
11 Hydraulic system -bleeding

A


Warning: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off immediately and thoroughly In the case ot skin contact, and seek immediate medical advice if any fluid is swallowed, or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable, and may ignite when allowed into contact with hot components. When servicing any hydraulic system, it Is safest to assume that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take precautions
11.17 Bleeding a rear brake line
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol that Is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is spilt, It should be washed off immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it Is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) • old fluid may be contaminated and unfit tor further use. Whan topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use the recommended type, and ensure that It comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.
General 1 The correct operation of any hydraulic system is only possible after removing all air from the components and circuit; and this Is achieved by bleeding the syslem. 2 During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the recommended type; never re-use fluid that has already been bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before starting work. 3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid being already in the system, the brake com-ponents and circuit must be Flushed completely with uncontamlnated, correct fluid, and new seals should be fitted throughout the system. 4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the system, or air has ontered because of a leak, ensure that the fault is cured before proceeding further. 5 Park Ihe vehicle on level ground, switch off the engine and select first or reverse gear (or P), then chock the wheels and release the handbrake. 6 Cheek that all pipes and hoses are secure, unions tight and bleed screws closed. Remove Ihe dust caps (whore applicable), and clean any dirt from around the bleed screws. 7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap, and top Ihe master cylinder reservoir up to the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely. Rememoer to maintain the fluid level at least above the MIN level line throughout the procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further air entering the syslem. 8 There are a number of one-man. do-It-yourself brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described in detail below. 9 If a kit Is to be used, prepare the vehicle as described previously, and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions, as Ihe procedure may vary slightly according to the type being used; generally, they are as outlined below in the relevant sub-section. 10 Whichever method is used, the same sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure Ihe removal of all air from the system.
Bleeding sequence 11 If Ihe system has been only
partial!?
disconnected, and suitable precautions wwe taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be necessary to bteod only that part of the system (le the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system Is to be bled, then It should be done working in the following sequence: a) Left-hand rear wheel b) Right-hand front wheel. c) Right-hand rear wheel. d) Left-hand front wheel. Note: When bleeding the rear brakes
on a
vehicle ritled with load proportioning valves: i the rear of the vehicle has been jacked
up to
allow access to ihe brake wheel cylinder,
tha
rear suspension must be compressed
(eg
raising the beam axle with a trolley
jack) so
that the load proportioning valves
remain open
throughout the bleeding process.
Bleeding -basic (two~man) method 13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a light fit over the bleed screw, end a ring spanner lo
Rt
the screw. The help of an assistant will also tie required. 14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw In the sequence if not already done. Fit a suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place the other end of Ihe tube In the jar. and
pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube. 15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
MIN
level line throughout the procedure. 16 Have the assistant fully depress the brefce pedal several times to build up pressure, then maintain it on the final downstroke. 17 While pedal pressure is maintained, unscrew ihe bleed screw (approximately one turn) and allow the compressed fluid and orto flow into the
Jar,
The assistant should maintah pedal pressure, following the pedal down to the floor if necessary, and should not rrtaase Ihe pedal until instructed to do so. When ihe flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have the assistant retease the pedal sfowty, and recheck the reservoir fluid level (see Illustration). 18 Repeat Ihe steps given in paragraphs 16 end 17 until the fluid emerging from the bled screw is free from air bubbles. If Ihe master cylinder has been drained and refilled,
and
at Is being bled from the first screw In the sequence, allow approximately five seconds between cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill. 19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighter, the bleed screw securely, remove Ihe tube arc spanner, and refit the dust cap (where applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed sew. 20 Repeat the procedure on tho remaining screws In the sequence, until ail air is removed from the system, and the brake pedal feels firm again.

10*1
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Bonnet • removal and refitting 11 Bonnet lock components - removal and refitting 12 Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting 13 Door - removal and refitting 15 Door handle and lock components • removal and refitting 16 Door inner trim panel • removal and refitting 14 Electric window components • removal and refitting 18 Exterior mirror components - removal and refitting 17 Facia - removal and refitting 19 Front bumper • removal and refitting 6
General Information 1 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe 2 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets 3 Major body damage - repair 5 Minor body damage - repair 4 Rear bumper - removal and refitting 7 Seats • removal and refitting 20 Tailgate - removal and refitting 8 Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting 10 Tailgate strut - removal and refitting 9
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for
novice with littie experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable ^ for beginner with ^
some
experience

Fairty difficult,
^
suitable
fcr competent
DIY
mechanic ^
Difficult,
suitable (or
^ experienced DIY »R mechanic ^

Very difficult,
^
suitable
for
expert CHY
or professional ^
Specifications
! Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft Bonnet-to-hinge botts 8 6 Door hinge-to-body bolts 35 26
1 Genera! information
The bodyshell is composed of pressed-steel sections which are welded together, although some use of structural adhesives is made. In addition, the front wings are bolted i on. ' The bonnet, door and some other panels I vulnerable to corrosion are fabricated from zinc-coated metal. A coating of anti-chip primer, applied prior to paint spraying I provides further protection. Extensive use is made of plastic materials. ' mainly In the Interior, but also in exterior components. The outer sections of the front l and rear bumpers are injection-moulded from
a
synthetic material which is very strong, and yet light. Plastic components such as wheel | arch liners are fitted to the underside of the vehicle, to improve Ihe body's resistance to I corrosion.
2 Maintenance - ^ bodywork and underframe ||
The general condition of a vehicle's bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance the underside, inside all the wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the vehicle. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud. which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically, and this is a good time for inspection. Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe of Ihe vehicle steam-cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at many garages, and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes is allowed to become thick In certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are

11 *2 Bodywork and fittings
on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating, or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just prior lo Winter, when the underbody should be washed down, and any damage to the wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be applied. It would also be worth considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage, where such protection Is not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois feather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish wilt give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has duiled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling Is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish, Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear, so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated In the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, by the use of proprietary glass cleaner. Nover use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass.
Maintenance -upholstery and carpets
Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush lo scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get Into the seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot.
If the Inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, tt Is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry ft out property, particularly where carpets an involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.
4 Minor body damage -repair
Repairs of minor scratches In bodywork If the scratch Is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish, Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to ihe scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint In the scratch Is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow Ihe new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it Into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique Is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in Ihe scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch: this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier In this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork When deop denting of the vehicle's bodywork has taken place, the first task is to put) the dent out. until the affected bodywork almost attains rts onginal shape. There is little polnl in trying to restore Ihe original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It Is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 mm below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where Ihe dent is very shallow anyway, It is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head, Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against (he outside of Ihe panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being 'belled-out".
Should the dent be In a section of (I* bodywork which has a double skin, or seme other factor making It Inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Dull several small holes through the metal inside Ihe area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws Into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair Is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a posver drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal wflhi screwdriver or the tang of 8 file, or alternatively, drill small holes In the affected area. This will provide a really good 'key' for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork, using an abrasive pad
or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper wil do the job most effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expansive as most people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from Ihe affected area, except those which will act as a guide to ttie original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips
or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal snd any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filer paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove tha powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint Ihe affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the beck of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, ft will be necessary to block the hole in some
way.
TNs can be achieved by the use of aluminium cr plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to tha approximate size and shape of tho hole to b« filled, then position it In the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by

Bodywork and fittings
11
*3
several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is Insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs -filling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking, those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board • measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker's instructions on the pack), otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly. U3ing the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the surface. As soon as a contour that approximates to the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will become sticky and begin lo 'pick-up' on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute Intervals, until the level of the filler is just proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40-grade production paper, and finishing with a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block • otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparled to the filler at the final stage. At this stage, the dent should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered' edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone. Spray the whole area with a light coat of primer - this will show up any imperfections In the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more smooth the surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water, and allow to dry fully.
flflfl^gl tf txxfystopper is used, it can WiMiiBi be mixed with cellulose Hi NT thinners to form a really thin 1 1 paste which is Ideal for filling small holes.
The repair area Is now ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but If you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor In the work area with water will help to settle the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape, and several thicknesses of newspaper, for the masking operations. Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin. or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint, rather than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the pnmer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying at one edge of the repair area, and then, using a side-to-side motion, work until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply wax polish.
Plastic components With the use of more and more plastic body components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major body panels), rectification of more serious damage to such items has become a matter of either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this field, or renewing complete components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the cost of the equipment and materials required for effecting such repairs. The basic technique involves making a groove along the line of the crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr In a power drill. The damaged part is then welded back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod Into the groove. Any excess plastic is then removed, and the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as body components can be made of a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less senous nature (abrasions, minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in equal proportions, this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting. If the owner is renewing a complete component himself, or If he has repaired it with epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing which is compatible with the type of plastic used. At one time, the use of a universal paint was not possible, owing to the complex range of plastics encountered In body component applications. Standard paints, generally speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-pnmer treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full Instructions are normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the method of use is to first apply the pre-pnmer to the component concerned, and allow It to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied, and left to dry for about an hour before finally applying the special-coloured top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured component, where the paint will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property that standard paint does not normally possess.
5 Major body damage -repair
Where serious damage has occurred, or large areas need renewal due to neglect, it means that complete new panels will need welding-in, and this is best left to professionals. If the damage is due to Impact, it will also be necessary to check completely the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can only be carried out accurately by a Fiat dealer using special jigs. If the alignment of the bodyshell is not corrected, the car's handling may be seriously affected. In addition, excessive stress may be Imposed on the steering, suspension, tyres or transmission, causing abnormal wear or even complete failure.

Bodywork and fittings
11
*5
8.2 Release the fixings and lower the trim panel away from the tailgate
Refitting 7 The pumper is refitted by following the removal procedure In reverse.
8 Tailgate- ^ removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative tormina) {refer to D/sconnecf/ng the battery In the Reference Section of this manual}. 2 Release the press stud fixings and extract ihe screws, then lower the trim panel away from the tailgate (see illustration). 3 Working inside the tailgate, disconnect all wiring harness connectors and unbolt the earth leads. Check for any other wiring connectors which must be disconnected to facilitate tailgate removal. Note: Carefully label each wiring harness connector (o aid correct refitting. 4 Tie a length of cord to the wiring harness, then bind the loose ends of the cabling together using PVC tape. Prise the winng harness grommets from the upper edge of the tailgate, then feed the wiring through the aperture in the tailgate. Untie the cord from the harness, but leave it In place In the tailgate, to aid refitting later. 5 Where applicable, remove the fluid hose from the tailgate washer nozzle, as described in Chapter 12. Section 16. then tie a length of
8.2a Lever off the balljoint spring clip...
8.8 Slacken and unscrew the bolts (arrowed) securing the hinges to the tailgate
cord to the hose and draw it out of the tailgate, using the same procedure carried out on the wiring harness. 8 Have an assistant support the tailgate in the open position. 7 Detach the upper ends of the support stmts from the tailgate as described in Section 9. 8 Slacken and unscrew the bolts securing tho hinges to the tailgate (seo illustration), then lift the tailgate from the vehicle.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points. a) Tie the cord to the wiring harness and use It to pull the harness through the aperture and into the tailgate. Where applicable, repeat the procedure on the washer fluid hose. b) Do not fully tighten the hinge bolts until the tailgate adjustment has been checAed, as described in the following paragraphs.
Adjustment 10 Close the tailgate carefully, in case the alignment is Incorrect, which may cause scratching on the tailgate or the body as the tailgate is closed, and check for alignment with the adjacent panels. If necessary, slacken the bolts that secure the hinges to the bodywork and re-align the tailgate to suit. Once the tailgate is correctly aligned, tighten the hinge bolts securely.
9.2b ... and then prise strut balljoint from the stud on tho taitgate
11 Check that the tailgate fastens and releases In a satisfactory manner. If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the striker plate retaining bolts, and adjust the position of the lock to suit (see Section 10). Once the lock is operating correctly, securely tighten the striker plate retaining bolts. 12 If necessary, adjust the protrusion of the rubber buffers at the lower edge of the tailgate, by screwing them in or out as appropriate.
9 Tailgate strut - ^ removal and refitting
Removal 1 Open the tailgate and support it using suitable wooden props. 2 At the upper end of each strut, lever off the balljoint spring clip. Compress tho strut slightly by hand and then prise strut balljoint from the stud on the tailgate (see illustrations),

A


Warning: The strut may still be under tension and could extend suddenly once detached from Its mountings. 3 At the lower end of the strut, unbolt the joint Irom the bodywork. Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10 Tailgate lock components -removal and refitting ^
Lock and cylinder assembly Removal 1 With the tailgate held In the fully open position, slacken and unscrew the bolts securing the lock assembly to tho lower edge of tho tailgate (soo illustration). 2 Carefully withdraw the lock assembly, together with tne lock cylinder (see Illustration).
10.1 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) securing the lock assembly to the lower edge of the tailgate

Bodywork and fittings
11
*7
12.4 Adjusting the extension of the bonnet pin
12 Bonnet lock components - ^ removal and refitting H
Latch and release lever assembly
Removal 1 Secure the bonnet In the fully open position using the stay. Mark the relationship between the latch and the surface of the bonnet using a soft pencil or marker pen. 2 Slacken and unscrew the bolts, then lower the latch assembly away from the bonnot. Refitting 3 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use the alignment markings made during removal to aid accurate refitting. Note that the mounting holes are slotted to allow adjustment if required. On completion, tighten the bolts securely. 4 The extension of the bonnet pin may be adjusted in necessary, by slackening the locknut and turning the pin with a flat-bladed screwdriver (see illustration).
Striker plate
Removal 5 Mark the relationship between the striker plate and the bodywork using a soft pencil or marker pen. The striker plate can then be removed by slackening and withdrawing the three securing bolts and unhooking the release cable from the operating lever. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use the alignment markings made during removal to aid accurate refitting. Note that the mounting holes are slotted to allow adjustment if required. On completion, tighten the bolts securely.
Suffers 7 If necessary, adjust the protrusion of the rubber buffers on the front crossmember, (located above each headlamp unit) by screwing them in or out as appropriate. When the rubber buffers are correctly adjusted, there should be just enough free movement to
14.3a Remove the screw .
allow the bonnet to be closed and locked easily, without using excessive force, but not enough to allow the bonnet to rattle when secured in the locked position.
13 Bonnet release cable -removal and refitting I
Removal 1 Secure the bonnet in the fully open position. With reference to Section 12, detach Ihe bonnet release cable from the striker plate operating lever. 2 Unscrew the cable clip from above the nght hand headlamp unit. 3 Working around the engine bay, extract the release cable from its securing clips. 4 In the drivers footweil, extracl Ihe fixings and lower the sound insulation panel (where fitted) away from the underside of the steering column/facia. 5 Push the bonnet release handle towards the bulkhead slightly, then free the release cable end fitting from its recess in the handle. Lift the cable inner up, pass the end fitting through the larger hole and withdraw it from the handle. Extract the release cable outer from the mounting bracket by carefully pulling down on the plastic collar. 6 Release the cable from the remaining clips under the facia, then carefully pull the entire cable through the bulkhead grommet Info the engine bay.
14.3b ... then prise out the door grab handle moulding
Refitting 7 Refit the cable by reversing the removal process. On completion, close the bonnet to check that it locks securely, then check the operation of tho release mechanism. If adjustment is required, this can be achieved by repositioning the slotted plastic collar fitted to the cable outer sheath, in the mounting lug on the underside of the striker plate.
14 Door inner trim panel -removal and refitting I
Removal Note: This section describes the removal of the front door trim panel; the procedure for removing the rear door trim panel is essentially the same, 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 With reference to Section 17. remove the trim panel from the rear of the door mirror fixings. 3 Lift off the caps and remove the screw, then prise out the door grab handle moulding (see Illustrations) 4 Prise the electric window/mirror adjustment switch from the armrest and unplug the wiring connector(s). Label them to aid correct refitting later (see illustrations).
14.4a Prise the electric window/mirror adjustment switch from the armrest... 14.4b ... and unplug the wiring connector