1994 FIAT PUNTO sensor

2B*7 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
35 Slacken the tensioner pulley retaining nut and reposition the tensioner to align the
mobile
indicator with the fixed reference mark
on the
pulley face (see illustration). Hold the
pdley in
this position and tighten the retaining
nut to the
specified torque. 36 Turn the crankshaft through a further two complete turns In the normal direction of rotation. Check that the timing is correct by alining Ihe piston positioning tools and
camshaft
locking tools as described previously. 37 When all is correct, remove the setting rri
locking
tools and refit the sealing plugs to 1ft© cylinder head extension, using new 0-
nr^s if
necessary. Tighten the plugs securely. 38 Refit the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 39 Refit Ihe ECU and secure with Ihe mooning bolts. 40
Renew the
injector O-ring seals, smear them Kith
8 little
Vaseline then locate the injectors and tef rail onto the inlet manifold lower section.
Saute Ihe fuel rail
with the two retaining bolts. 41 Relit the inlet manifold upper section using new sealing O-rlngs If necessary and
sectre
with the two bolts. 42 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the tot injector harness and the intake air temp-erature/pressure sensor, then connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and tha
EVAP
purge valve hose. 43 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the ihrottls potentiometer, idle control stepper motor and coolant temperature sensor. Reconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 44 Refit and adjust the accelerator cable as described in Chapter 4B. 46 Refit the upper and lower timing belt
covers
together with the TDC sensor wiring. 46 Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
three
retaining bolts securely. 47 Refit the air cleaner. Inlet air duct and resonator as described in Chapter 4B. 48
Refit
tha auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described i/t Chapter 1A, then reconnect the battery
S Timing belt tensioner
and
sprockets -
removal
and refitting

Timing
belt tensioner
Removal I
Remove
the timing belt as described in
Section
4. 1 Completely unscrew the tensioner nut and Wiethe tensioner off the mounting stud-Inspection
3 Wipe
the tensioner clean but do not use Kfrents that may contaminate the bearings.
Spin
the tensioner pulley on its hub by hand.
Sfcfl
movement or excessive freeplay is an rcfceticn of severe wear: the tensioner is not 3 serviceable component, and should be nnewsd.
4.33 Holding the camshaft sprocket with the tool described previously while tightening the sprocket bolt Refitting 4 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut. 5 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4. Camshaft sprocket Removal 6 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 7 Unscrew the bolt and slide the sprocket from the end of the camshaft. Inspection 8 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 6 and renew it. 9 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 10 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 11 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, then refit the retaining boll finger tight only at this stage. 12 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket Removal 13 Remove the timing bell as described In Section 4. 14 Working beneath the engine, unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, then hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a tool which engages the flywheel starter ring
<

Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the starter ring gear. 15 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. The sprocket may have an integral location key on its inner face, or a separate key which locates In a groove in the crankshaft nose may be fitted. Inspection 16 With the sprocket removed, examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 7 and renew it. 17 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 18 Wipe clean the sprocket and crankshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 19 Slide the sprocket onto the crankshaft making sure
11
engages the integral key or separate key, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using the method described in paragraph 14. 20 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
6 Camshaft
oil
seal -renewal
1 Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5. 2 Punch or drill a small hole in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into the hole, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fall in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and drive it into position until It seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care nof to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the Seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt as described in Sections 5 and 4.
7 Crankshaft oil seats -renewal I
4.35 Position the tensioner so that the mobile Indicator (1) is aligned with the fixed reference mark (2)
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The front oil seal is located in the oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it.

DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B*11
camshaft cover plate... 25 Locate the cam follower retaining tools in position and refit the cylinder head extension
as
described In Section 8.

10
Cylinder head - &
removal and
refitting S
Removal Note; The cylinder head bolts are of special
sekned
design and a Fiat tool should be
obtained
to unscrew them. A Ton key will not
JSt however
in practise It was found that a dose-httlng Alien key could be used as an itemative. 1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Remove the cylinder head extension as oescAbed
m
Section 8. 3 Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing on the left-hand end of
Ihe
cylinder head. 4 Disconnect the heater hose from the outlet
at the
rear of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor md temperature gauge sensor wiring plugs
torn
the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 9 Undo the engine oil dipstick tube bracket retaining bolt and the two bolts securing the wing harness support clips to the inlet marriold lower section. 7 Undo Ihe retaining nuts and separate the ixhaust system front pipe from the exhaust manifold flange.
8
Check that nothing remains attached to the cinder head likely to impede removal. It Is assumed that the head will be removed complete with exhaust manifold and inlet manifold lower section. 9 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts half a turn K
e
time in the reverse order to that shown in (lustration 10.20a. When the bolts are free. «mwe them from their locations.. Id Lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is stuck tight rock the head to break the joint by mans of the manifolds. On no account drive
levers
into the gasket Joint, nor attempt to tap tf« head sideways, as it is located on positioning dowels. 11 Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket.
JK'
l^. 9.22b ... then apply RTV gasket sealant to the cover plate contact face 12 Refer to Chapter 20 for cylinder head dismantling and inspection procedures. Preparation for refitting 13 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly dean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns, Take particular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages -this Is particularly important for the lubncahon system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine's components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little grease In the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap. then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way. 14 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but If excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface Is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 15 Check the condition of the cylinder head bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever they are removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable
sequence
9.24 Lubricate the cam followers and place them in position in their respective bores solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting the assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that the bolt holes in the cylinder block have been mopped out to clear any oil, 17 The now gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit Ihe gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly clean. 18 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above. 19 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that it locates on the positioning dowel. 20 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean and lightly lubricated. Screw the bolts in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, lighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torquo setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge Is used during this stage ot tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 21 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe to the manifold using a new flange gasket.
10.20b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stago 1 torque setting ...

2B*12 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
... then through the Stage 2 end Stage 3 angle
22 Refit the engine oil dipstick tube bracket retaining bolt and the two bolts securing the wiring harness support clips to the inlet manifold lower section. 23 Connect the coolant temperature sensor and temperature gauge sensor wiring plugs. 24 Connect the radiator hose lo the thermostat housing and the heater hose to the cylinder head outlet. 25 Refit the cylinder head extension as described in Section 8. 26 On completion, refill tha cooling system as described In Chapter 1A.
11 Flywheel -removal, Inspection arid refitting
12 Engine mountings -inspection and renewal
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 11.
13 Sump -removal and refitting
R6fer to Chapter 2A. Section 12.
14 Oil pump and pick-up tube -removal, Inspection and refitting
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 10. Refer to Chapter 2A. Section 13.

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
^ - / //
4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.50b ... and expansion tank 4.S2 Disconnecting the radiator coolant temperature sensor wiring plug
4.53b One of tho wheel arch liner retaining screws is hidden in a recess 52 On the radiator cooling fan housing, disconnect the wiring plug for tho coolant temperature sensor (see illustration). 53 Unscrew the four front screws on each side retaining the wheel arch liners in order to
4.53c Bolt securing the front bumper to the valance access the front bumper mounting bolts • one of lite screws is hidden in a recess. Pull back the liners and use an extension and socket to unscrew the bolts securing the front bumper to tho valance (see illustrations).
4.55 Releasing the retaining clips from the rear of tho indicator lights 4.56a Side bumper retaining screw
4.56b Centre bumper retaining screw 4.57a Radiator lower mounting bracket bolt
4.54 One of the front bumper lower retaining screws 54 Unscrew and remove the front bumper lower retaining screws (see Illustration). 55 From inside the engine compartment, disconnect the wiring from the rear of the Indicator lights and release the retaining clips (see illustration). 56 Unscrew the upper retaining screws and withdraw the front bumper from the body (see Illustrations). 57 Unscrew the bolts socunng the radiator lower mounting bracket to the body then prise the bracket from the rubbers on the bottom ol the radiator (see Illustrations). 58 Unscrew the upper mounting bolt securing the engine oil cooler then lower the cooler and support on an axle stand (see illustrotion). Take care not to damage the hoses. 59 Support the radiator then unscrew the radiator upper mounting bolts, and remove the radiator from the vehicle (see illustrations).
4.57b Removing the bracket from the rubbers on the bottom of the radiator

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.70 Lowering the engine/transmission assembly to Ihe floor
4.79a Withdraw the Intermediate shaft...
Separation 71 Rest Ihe engine and transmission assembly on a firm, flat surface, and use wooden blocks as wedges to keep the unit steady. 72 Note the routing and location of the wiring
4.77 Removing the transmission lower cover
4.79b ... and recover the dust boot
harness on the engine/transmission assembly, Ihen methodically disconnect It. 73 Remove the starter motor (Chapter 5A). Petrol engines 74 Noto the location of the earth loads on the
4.78 Removing the bolts securing the intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block
transmission support bracket on the rear of the cylinder block, then unscrew the securing bolts and move the leads to one side. 75 Unscrew the bolts on the transmission and remove the support bracket. 78 Unscrew tho remaining bolts and remove the transmission lower cover. Diesel engines 77 Unscrew the bolts and remove the transmission lower cover (see Illustration). 78 Unscrew the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on Ihe rear of the cylinder block (see illustration). 79 Withdraw the Intermediate shaft through the bracket and recover the dust boot from tho inner end (see illustrations). 80 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the rpm sensor from the transmission (see illustrations). Manual transmission models 81 Support the transmission with blocks ol wood. 82 Unscrew the transmission-to-engine bolts. Also unscrew Ihe nut securing the transmission to the rear ot the cylinder block (see illustrations). 83 Lift the transmission complete with driveshafts directly from the roar of Ihe engine, taking care to keep It level so that the transmission input shaft does not hang on the clutch (see illustration), Automatic transmission models 84 Support the transmission with blocks of wood.
4.83 Separating the engine from tho transmission (petrol engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).

Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.4 Using a dial gauge to check the crankshaft endfloat 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 7. However, If no work fs to be done on the pistons and connecting rods there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft Journals. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the cylinder block and recover the gasket where fitted. 4 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat using a dial gauge. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero Ihe gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check tho endfloat (see Illustration). The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required. 6 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap - on petrol engines measure between the centre main bearing thrust washer and the crankshaft web. and on diesel engines measure between the rear main bearing and tha crankshaft web. 6 Note the markings on the main bearing caps which vary according to type. On 8-valve petrol engines there is one line on Ihe cap nearest the timing belt end, two on the second cap, C on the centre cap, then three and four lines on the remaining caps (soo illustration). On 16-valve petrol engines, the caps are marked one to five with a series of lines (one line for the cap nearest the timing
8.6 Main bearing markings (petrol engine)
belt end, two for tho next cap and so on). On diesel engines the caps are marked one to live In the same way but with notches instead ol lines. Note also that on some diesel engines the cap nearest the timing belt end Is not marked and the notches therefore start with No 2 cap. 7 Loosen and remove the main bearing cop retaining bolts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. On some diesel engines note that the centre main bearing cap botts are longer than the other bolls. 8 Lift the crankshaft Irom the crankcase and remove the upper bearing shells from the crankcase. If the shells are 1o be used again, keep them identified for position. Also remove the thrustwashers from their position either side of the centre main bearing (petrol engines) or rear main bearing (diesel engines) (see illustrations)
Inspection 9 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solvent and allow It to dry. Flush the oil holes thoroughly, to ensure that ihey are not blocked - use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush il necessary. Remove any sharp edges from the edge of the holes which may damage the new bearings when they are installed. 10 Inspect the main searing and crankpin journals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking, scoring or pitting are evident then the crankshaft should be reground by an engineering workshop, and refitted to the engine with underslze bearings.
11 Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of each main bearing journal. Taking a number of measurements on the surface of each journal will reveal if it Is worn unevenly. Differences in diameter measured at 90" intervals Indicate that the journal is out of round. Differences In diameter measured aiong the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again. If wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the |ournal; seek the advice of an engmeenng workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runoul by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft In V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate Ihe runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure Is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm
a»
a rough guido. If the runoul exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered • consult your Flat dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advico. 14 Refer to Section 10 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection.
9 Cylinder block/crankcase - % cleaning and inspection Sk
Cleaning 1 Remove all external components, brackets and electrical switches/sensors from the block Including the rear engine plate, injection pump/oil filter bracket and gasket, Intermediate shaft bracket, oH vapour breather casing, and coolant pump. Also unboit and remove the ol return tube from the crankcase (see illustrations). For complete cleaning, the core plugs should Ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by
8.8a Removing the thrustwashers.. ... and upper bearing shells (diesel engine) 8.8o Thrustwashers located on the centre main bearing (petrol engine)