1994 FIAT PUNTO Meter

2B*5 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.11a Release the crankshaft TDC sensor wiring from the clip on the upper timing cover... throttle potentiometer and the Idle control stepper motor. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wiring connector located
in
the inlet manifold below the throttle body,
end
disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 15 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the fuel injector harness and the intake air temperature/pressure sensor, then fcconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and the EVAP purge valve hose. 18 Undo the two bolts securing the plastic mlet manifold upper section to the lower section. Release the spark plug HT lead from the location groove in the manifold upper wctton, then lift the upper section, complete
»ith
throttle body, off the engine. Recover the 0-rngs from the manifold ports. 17 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fuel
4£1a Screw the spark plug bodies of the homo-made piston positioning tools into each spark plug hole ...
4.21b ... place a suitable washer or similar into the recess to keep the dowel rod vertical...
4.11b ... then slide the wiring plug and socket from the timing cover slot
rail assembly to the inlet manifold lower section, then carefully pull the Injectors from the manifold. Lift the fuel rail and Injector assembly, with fuel hoses still connected, and position it to one side. 16 Undo the bolts securing the engine management ECU mounting brackets to the body and move the ECU to one side without disconnecting the wiring connector. 19 Remove the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 20 Unscrew the two sealing plugs from the front and rear of the cylinder head extension to enable the camshaft locking tools to be inserted. 21 Screw the spark plug bodies of the home-made piston positioning tools into each spark plug hole and insert the dowel rods into each body. To keep the dowel rods vertical, locate a suitable washer or similar over Ihe rod and into the recess at the top of the spark plug hole. In the photos shown here, an old valve stem oil seal housing was used but anything similar will suffice (see illustrations). 22 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket centre bolt, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until all four dowel rods are protruding from the top of the cylinder head extension by the same amount. As the engine is turned, two of the rods will move up and two will move down until the position is reached where they are all at the same hoight. The best way to check this is to place a straight edge along the top of the rods and turn the crankshafl very slowly until the
4.21c ... then insert the dowel rods
4.12b ... and lower timing covers
straight edge contacts all four rods (see illustration). 23 When all four rods are at the same height, all the pistons will be at the mid-point of their stroke. Using a screwdriver or similar inserted into the front timing hole in the cylinder head extension, check that the timing slot in the exhaust camshaft is approximately aligned with the liming hole. If the camshaft slot cannot be felt, turn the crankshaft through one complete revolution and realign the dowel rods using the straight edge. Check again for the camshaft slot. Note that although the pistons can be at the mid-point of their stroke twice for each cycle of the engine, the camshaft slots will only be positioned correctly once per cycle. 24 With the pistons correctly set, it should now be possible to screw in the camshaft
4.22 Place a straight edge along the top of the rods and turn the crankshaft until the straight edge contacts ail four rods

2B*7 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
35 Slacken the tensioner pulley retaining nut and reposition the tensioner to align the
mobile
indicator with the fixed reference mark
on the
pulley face (see illustration). Hold the
pdley in
this position and tighten the retaining
nut to the
specified torque. 36 Turn the crankshaft through a further two complete turns In the normal direction of rotation. Check that the timing is correct by alining Ihe piston positioning tools and
camshaft
locking tools as described previously. 37 When all is correct, remove the setting rri
locking
tools and refit the sealing plugs to 1ft© cylinder head extension, using new 0-
nr^s if
necessary. Tighten the plugs securely. 38 Refit the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 39 Refit Ihe ECU and secure with Ihe mooning bolts. 40
Renew the
injector O-ring seals, smear them Kith
8 little
Vaseline then locate the injectors and tef rail onto the inlet manifold lower section.
Saute Ihe fuel rail
with the two retaining bolts. 41 Relit the inlet manifold upper section using new sealing O-rlngs If necessary and
sectre
with the two bolts. 42 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the tot injector harness and the intake air temp-erature/pressure sensor, then connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and tha
EVAP
purge valve hose. 43 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the ihrottls potentiometer, idle control stepper motor and coolant temperature sensor. Reconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 44 Refit and adjust the accelerator cable as described in Chapter 4B. 46 Refit the upper and lower timing belt
covers
together with the TDC sensor wiring. 46 Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
three
retaining bolts securely. 47 Refit the air cleaner. Inlet air duct and resonator as described in Chapter 4B. 48
Refit
tha auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described i/t Chapter 1A, then reconnect the battery
S Timing belt tensioner
and
sprockets -
removal
and refitting

Timing
belt tensioner
Removal I
Remove
the timing belt as described in
Section
4. 1 Completely unscrew the tensioner nut and Wiethe tensioner off the mounting stud-Inspection
3 Wipe
the tensioner clean but do not use Kfrents that may contaminate the bearings.
Spin
the tensioner pulley on its hub by hand.
Sfcfl
movement or excessive freeplay is an rcfceticn of severe wear: the tensioner is not 3 serviceable component, and should be nnewsd.
4.33 Holding the camshaft sprocket with the tool described previously while tightening the sprocket bolt Refitting 4 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut. 5 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4. Camshaft sprocket Removal 6 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 7 Unscrew the bolt and slide the sprocket from the end of the camshaft. Inspection 8 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 6 and renew it. 9 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 10 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 11 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, then refit the retaining boll finger tight only at this stage. 12 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket Removal 13 Remove the timing bell as described In Section 4. 14 Working beneath the engine, unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, then hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a tool which engages the flywheel starter ring
<

Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the starter ring gear. 15 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. The sprocket may have an integral location key on its inner face, or a separate key which locates In a groove in the crankshaft nose may be fitted. Inspection 16 With the sprocket removed, examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 7 and renew it. 17 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 18 Wipe clean the sprocket and crankshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 19 Slide the sprocket onto the crankshaft making sure
11
engages the integral key or separate key, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using the method described in paragraph 14. 20 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
6 Camshaft
oil
seal -renewal
1 Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5. 2 Punch or drill a small hole in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into the hole, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fall in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and drive it into position until It seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care nof to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the Seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt as described in Sections 5 and 4.
7 Crankshaft oil seats -renewal I
4.35 Position the tensioner so that the mobile Indicator (1) is aligned with the fixed reference mark (2)
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The front oil seal is located in the oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it.

2D»1
Chapter 2 Part D:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Contents
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check... 12 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence 5 Crankshaft • removal and inspection 8 Engine overhaul • general Information .. Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and Inspection 9 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence Cylinder head - dismantling, cleaning inspection and reassembly .. 6 General Information Engine and transmission - removal, separation, connection and refitting 4 Engine and transmission removal • methods and precautions 3 Engine * Initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly 13
Degrees of difficulty
Engine overhaul - general Information 2 11 1 Main and big-end bearings - Inspection and selection 10 Pistons and connecting rods - removal, inspection, refitting and big-end bearing running clearance check 7
Easy, suftable for FaHy easy, suitable ^ FaMy difficult, ^ Difficult, suitable for % Very difficult, ^ novice with littla | for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY « experience | some experience ^ HYmechanic mechanic or professional ^
Specifications
Engine codes See Chapter 2A. 2B or ZC.
Cylinder head Camshaft bearing diameters:* Petrol engines: No
1
bearing 24.045 to 24.070 mm No 2 bearing 23.S45 to 23.570 mm No 3 bearing 24.025 to 24.070 mm Diesel engine: No
1
bearing (In right-hand side mount) 29.990to30.015mm No 2 bearing 25.545 to 25.570 mm No 3 bearing 24.045 to 24.070 mm No 4 bearing (in left-hand side mount) 23.990 to 24.015 mm Valve seat angle 45° ±5' Cam follower (tappet) running clearance In head' 0.005 to 0.050 mm Difference between swirl chamber and cylinder head surface (diesel engine only) -0.765 to 0.055 mm '
Refer
to Chapter 2B for camshaft and cam follower specifications on 1242 cc
(16-velve)
petrol engines. Valves Valve stem diameter (Inlet and exhaust): Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 6.982 to 7.000 mm 1242
CC
(16-valve) engine 5.974 to 5.992 mm Diesel engine 7.974 to 7.992 mm Valve face angle 45° 30'±5' Valve stem-to-guide clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc(B-valve) engines 0.022 to 0.05B mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0.030 to 0.066 mm Diesel engine 0.030 to 0.066 mm Cam follower (tappet) sJiim sizes 3.20 to 4.70 mm In Increments of 0.05 mm Camshaft Camshaft bearing Journal diameters:' Petrol engines Diesel engine No
1
bearing 24.000 to 24.015 mm 29.945 to 29.960 mm No 2 bearing 23.500 to 23.515 mm 25.500 to 25.515 mm No 3 bearing 24.000 to 24.015 mm 24.000 to 24.015 mm No 4 bearing N/A 23.945 to 23.960 mm Camshaft bearing running clearance* 0.030 to 0.070 mm Camshaft endfloat* 0.070 to 0.250 mm 'Refer to Chapter 2B for camshaft specifications on 1242 cc
(16-valve)
enginss.
20

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Cylinder block Bore diameter: Petrol engines: 1106 cc engine 70.000 to 70.030 mm 1242 cc engine 70.800 to 70.630 mm Diesel engine 82.600 to 82.650 mm Underslzes * Increments of 0.010 mm
Pistons and piston rings Piston diameter: Petrol engines: Grade A; 1108 cc engine 69.960 to 69.970 mm 1242 cc engine 70.760 to 70.770 mm Grade 8: 1108 cc engine 69.970 to 69.980 mm 1242 cc engine 70.770 to 70.780 mm Grade C; 1108 cc engine 69.980 to 69;990 mm 1242 cc engine 70.780 to 70.790 mm Diesel engine: Grade A 82.530 to 82.640 mm GradeB GradeC , 82.550 to 62.560 mm Grade E ; 82.570 to 82.580 mm Piston projection above top of bore: Diesel engine 0.637 to 1.162 mm Piston to bore clearance: Petrol engines 0.030 to 0.050 mm Diesel engine 0.060 to 0.080 mm Maximum difference in weight between pistons x 5g Gudgeon pin diameter 17.970 fo 17.974 mm Gudgeon pin-to-plston clearance: Petrol engines 0.008 to 0.016 mm Diesel engine 0.003 to 0.009 mm Piston ring-to-groove clearance: Petrol engines: Top compression ring: 1108 cc engine 0.040 to 0.075 mm 1242 cc (8-valve) engine 0,040 lo 0,080 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0 to 0.06 mm 2nd compression ring: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.020 to 0.055 mm 1242 cc
(1
B-valve) engine 0 to 0.055 mm Oil scraper ring: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.020 to 0.055 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0 to 0.055 mm Diesel engine: Top compression ring 0.080 to 0.130 mm 2nd compression ring 0.020 to 0.052 mm Oil scraper ring 0.030 to 0.065 mm Piston ring end gap: Petrol engines: Top compression ring: 1108 cc engine 0.25 to 0.45 mm 1242ccengine : 0.20to0.40mm 2nd compression ring 0.25 to 0.45 mm Oil scraper ring 0.20 to 0.45 mm Diesel engine: Top compression ring 0.020 to 0.350 mm 2nd compression ring 0.300 to 0.500 mm Oil scraper ring 0.250 lo 0.500 mm
Connecting rods Gudgeon pin-to-small end clearance: Petrol engines Interference fit Diesel engine 0.014 to 0.020 mm

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Crankshaft Main bearing journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade
1
43.994 to 44.000 mm Grade 2 43.988 to 43.994 mm Grade 3 43.982 to 43.988 mm 1242 cc engine: Grade
1
47.994 to 48.000 mm Grade 2 47.988 to 47.994 mm Grade 3 47.982 to 47.988 mm Diesel engine: Grade 1 52.995 to 53.004 mm Grade 2 52.986 to 52.995 mm Crankpin Journal diameters: Petrol engines: 1108 cc engine: Grade A 38.001 to 38.008 mm Grade 8 37.995 to 38.001 mm Grade C 37.988 to 37.995 mm 1242 cc (8-valve) engine: Grade A 42.001 to 42.008 mm Grade 8 41.995 to 42.001 mm Grade C 41.988 to 41.995 mm 1242 cc <16-valve) engine: Grade A 41.990 to 42.008 mm Diesel engine: Grade A 50.796 to 50.805 mm Grade B 50.787 to 50.796 mm Main bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.025 to 0.049 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 0.025 to 0.040 mm Dlese! engine 0.027 to 0.066 mm Big-end bearing running clearance: Petrol engines: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 0.024 to 0.062 mm 1242 cc (16-vaJve) engine 0.024 to 0.060 mm Diesel engine 0.026 to 0.063 mm Crankshaft endtloat: Petrol engines 0.055 to 0.265 mm Diesel engine 0.049 to 0.231 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf
t

Petrol engines Big-end bolt 41 30 Camshaft bearing caps (1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines: M8x 1.25 20 15 MB 10 7 Main bearing cap: Stage 1 40 30 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90°
Diesel engines Big-end bolt: Stage 1 25 18 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 50° Camshaft bearing caps 19 14 Camshaft side mounts 19 14 Main bearing cap 113 83 Swirl chamber to head 118 87

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.44a Disconnecting tho radiator top hose from the thermostat housing
4.45b ... and expansion tank hose
lofi-nand side of the cylinder head, From the top ot the radiator and from the expansion tank (see Illustrations). 46 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from the elbow on the cylinder head.
4.49e ... and the adjustment lockbolt...
4.44b Disconnecting the heater hose st the engine
4.49a Remove the front bracket bolt...
47 On models with a speedometer cable, disconnect the cable from the transmission. 48 On models with an electronic speedometer, if necessary disconnect the winng connector on the support bracket. The cable may be left
4.49f ... and tie the power steering pump to the bulkhead
. m " • V;
<4
4.45a Disconnecting the heater return hose...
4.49b ... the belt adjustment bolt...
attached if Ihe transmission Is not being detached from the engine. 49 On models fitted with power steering, unbolt the power steering pump from the rear right-hand side of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie it to one side on the bulkhead so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. To do (his first remove the front bracket bolt, remove the belt adjustment bolt, remove the rear through-bolt, lift away the cover and remove the adjustment lockbolt (see illustrations). On models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position It clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refrigerant pipes/hoses. 50 Disconnect the coolant purge hoses from the top of the radiator and expansion tank (seo illustrations). 51 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the injection pump (see Chapter 4Q.
4.50a Disconnecting the coolant purge hoses from the radiator...

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
6.25 Checking the cylinder head for distortion 6.27 Checking the valve guides and valves for wear B.29a Diesel swirl chamber protrusion can be checked using a dial gauge...
scrape off the majority of the deposits with a blunt biade first, then use the wire brush. Caution: Do not erode the sealing surface ot the valve face. 23 Thoroughly clean the remainder of the components using solvent and allow them to dry completely. On 6-valve petrol and diesel engines, discard the oil seals, as new items must be fitted when the cylinder head is reassembled.
Inspection
Cylinder head 24 Inspect the head very carelully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage, and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 25 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to check that the cylinder head gasket surface is not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may
be
possible to have it machined, provided that Ihe cylinder head thickness is not excessively reduced. As no specifications as to permissible distortion limits or cylinder head thickness tolerances are given by ihe manufacturer, seek the advice of an engine overhaul specialist if distortion Is apparent. 26 Examine the valve seats In each of the combustion chambers, If they are severely pitted, cracked, or burned, they will need to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this can be removed by grinding-in the valve heads and seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as described below.
27 Check the valve guides for wear by inserting the relevant valve, and checking for side-to-side motion of the valve (see illustration) A very small amount of movement Is acceptable. If the movement seems excessive, remove the valve. Measure the valve stem diameter at several points, and renew the valve if it is worn. If the valve stem is not worn, the wear must be In the valve guide, and the guide must be renewed. The renewal of valve guides should be earned out by an engine overhaul specialist, who will have the necessary tools required. 26 If renewing the vaive guides, the valve seats should be re-cut or re-ground only after the new guides have been fitted. 29 On diesel engines, inspect the swirl chambers for burning or damage such as cracking. Smalt cracks in the chambers are acceptable: renewal of the chambers will only be required if chamber tracts are badly burned and disfigured, or if they are no longer a tight fit in the cylinder head. If there is any doubt as to the swirl chamber condition, seek the advice of a Flat dealer or a suitable repairer who specialises in diesel engines. Swirl chamber renewal should be entrusted to a specialist. Using a dial test indicator, check that the difference between the swirl chamber and the cylinder head surface is within the limits given in Ihe Specifications. Alternatively feeler blades and a straight-edge may bo used (see illustrations). Zero the dial test indicator on the gaskel surface of tho cylinder head, then measure the protrusion of the swirl
chamber, if the protrusion is not within the specified limits, the advice of a Fiat dealer or suitable repairer who specialises in diesel engines should be sought. Camshaft 30 Inspect the camshaft for wear on the surfaces of the lobes and journals. Normally their surfaces should be smooth and have a dull shine: look for scoring and pitting. Accelerated wear will occur once the hardened exterior of the camshaft has been damaged. 31 Examine the bearing cap and journal surfaces for signs of wear. 32 To measure the camshaft endfloat, temporanly refit the camshaft then push the camshaft lo one end of the cylinder head as far as It will travel. Attach a dial test indicator to the cylinder head and zero it, then push the camshaft as far as It will go to the other end of the cylinder head and record the gauge reading. Verify the reading by pushing the camshaft back to its original position and checking that the gauge indicates zero again (see Illustration). 33 The camshaft bearing running clearance may be checked using Plastigauge as described later in this Chapter. 34 Where the camshaft and bearings are worn excessively consider renewing the complete cylinder head together with camshaft and cam followers. A reconditioned head may be available from ongine repairers. Wear of cam followers may be checked using a micrometer (see illustration).
6.29b ... or feeler blades 6.32 Chocking the camshaft endfloat with a dial gauge 6.34 Checking the wear of the cam followers

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Valves and associated components 35 Examine the head of each vaive for pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear. Check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check lor any obvious indication that it Is bent. Look tor pits or excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 36 if the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the vaive stem diameter at several points using a micrometer. Any significant difference in the readings obtained Indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 37 If the valves are In satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-tight seal. If the seat is only tightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should nor be used, unless a seat is badly bumed or deeply pitted, If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be Inspected by an expert, to decldo whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert (where possible) is required. 38 Valve grinding Is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on blocks on a bench. 39 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-gnndtng compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
6.48 Compressing the vaive spring and fitting the split collets
them
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute tho grinding compound (see Illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation 40 If coarse grinding compound Is being used, v/ork only until a dull, matt even surface Is produced on both the valve seal and the valve, then wipe off tho used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring ol light grey malt finish Is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind-In the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 41 When all the valves have been ground-m, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembling the cylinder head. 42 Examine the valve springs for signs of damage ano discoloration, If possible compare the length of the springs with new ones and renew them if necessary. 43 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check ft tor squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost mar tension, obtain a complete new set of springs. It Is normal to renew the valve springs as a matter of course if a major overhaul is being earned out. 44 Renew (he valve stem oil seals regardless of their apparent condition.
Reassembly 45 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and insert the valves into their original locations
6.53 Tightening the camshaft bearing cap nuts (diesel engines)
6.46 Using a socket to press the valve stem seals onto the guides
(see illustration). If new valves are being fitted, insert them Into the locations to which they have been ground. 46 Refit the spring sea( then, working on the first valve, dip the new valve stem sesl in fresh engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it Is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly onto the guide (sea Illustration). 47 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat, then refit the spring retainer. 48 Compress the valve spring, and locate the split collets in the recess in the valve stem. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves (see illustration)
Use a dab o) grease to hold Uiejitts* the collets In position on the HlNT valve stem while the spring compressor is released.
49 With ail the valves Installed, place the cylinder head on blocks on the bench and, using a hammer and Interposed block ol wood, top the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 50 On diesel engines, refit the swirl chambers together with their washers and tighten the retaining collars to the specified torque. 51 Oil the cam followers and locate them In their correct positions in the cylinder head. Locate the shims In the cam followers making sure they are in their original positions. 52 Oil the journals then locate the camshaft m the cylinder head with the cam lobes of No 1 cylinder facing upwards (ie No 1 cylinder at TDC). 53 Refit the bearing caps In their correct positions and progressively tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque (sea illustration). On petrol engines locate the lubrication pipe on Ihe head and press in the oil feed stub before refitting the bolts. 54 On diesel engines fit a new oil sea) to the right-hand side mount, then refit both side mounts together with new gaskets, Tighten the right-hand mount bolts. Also refit the coolant cover and thermostat housing together with new gaskets (see illustrations).