1994 FIAT PUNTO Lit

Lubricants and fluids 0.17
Lubricants and fluids
Engine Petrol Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better (Duckhams QXR Premium Petrol Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Petrol Engine Oil) Diesel Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better Duckhams QXR Premium Diesel Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Diesel Engine Oil) Cooling system Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and soft water (Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant) Manual gearbox Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE80W to API GL4 (Duckhams Hypoid Gear Oil SOW GL-4) Automatic transmission Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans III) Braking system Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake & Clutch Fluid) Power steering Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans Hi)
Choosing your engine oil
Engines need oil. not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to Improve fuel economy. By introducing a simplified and improved range of engine oils. Duckhams has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you lo choose the right oil for your engine.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction Without oil. the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.
• Cooling hot-spots Temperatures Inside the engine can exceed 1000°
C.
The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.
• Cleaning the engine internally Good quality engine oils clean the Inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil niter or flushed out at oil change.
OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE To handle and dispose of used engine oil safety, always: • Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. • Dispose of used oil and empty packs In a responsible manner In an authorised disposal site. tti Call 0800 663366 to find qIqq f £ the one nearest to you. Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.
DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS For the driver who demands a premium quality oil for complete reassurance, we recommend synthetic formula Duckhama QXR Premium Engine Oils. For the driver who requires a straight-forward quality engine oil, we recommend Duckhams Hypergrade Engine Ote.
For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.
^SGCKHAMS

1A»1
Chapter
1
Part A:
Routine maintenance & servicing - petrol models
Contents

Air
filter renewal 18 Automatic transmission filter and fluid change 2B Auxiliary dr cmI
and filter renewal 3 Evaporative loss system check 27 Exhaust system check 8 From brake pad check 5 Fuel filter renewal 17 Headlight beam adjustment 23 Hinge and lock lubrication 22
Hose and fluid leak check 7 Idle speed and CO content check and adjustment .11 Ignition system check 20 Introduction 1 Lambda/oxygen sensor check 25 Manifold mounting check 16 Manual transmission oil level check 26 Manual transmission oil renewal .32 Pollen filter renewal 10 Rear brake shoe check 29 Regular maintenance 2 Road test 24 Spark plug renewal 19 Steering and suspension check 12 Timing belt renewal 30 Underbody sealant check 6 Valve clearance check and adjustment 15
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ novice with little experience ^
Fairty easy, suitable for beginner with ^ some experience
FaMy difficult, ^ sitable for competent jj^ DIY mechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY aJ mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^ suitable for expert DIY or professional ^
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org

ia.2 Servicing specifications - petrol models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end ot Weekly checks on page 0*17
Capacities Engine oil (including filter) 1108 cc engine 3.47 litres 1242 cc (8-valvB) engine 3.74 litres 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 2.80 litres Cooling system 4,6 litres
Manual transmission 5-spee d 1.65 litres 6-spee d 1.87 litres Automatic transmission 1.98 litres Power-assisted steering 0.65 Irtres Fuel tank 47 litres Washer reservoir Wllhouthesdllghl washers 2.5 litres With headlight washers 7.0 litres
Engine Olf niter - Champion F107 Auxiliary drivebelt tension 5.0 mm deflection midway between pulleys Valve clearances - engine cold: Inlet Exhaust 1108 cc and 1242 cc (single-point petrol injection) 0.40±0.05mm 0.50±0.05mm 1242 cc (multi-point petrol Injection 0.40 1 0.05 mm 0.45 1 0.05 mm
Cooling system Antifreeze mixture (50% antifreeze) Protection down to -35"C Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system Engine idle speed . 900 * 50 rpm CO 0.35 maximum Air filter element: 1108 cc engine with 6-speed transmission -... Champion U647 1108 cc engine (Easl Europe) Champion U648 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion U647 1242
CO
engine (75.85 and Sporting models) Champion U649 Fuel filler: Up to September 1995 October 1995 onwards 1108 cc engine Champion L213 Champion L225 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion L213 Champion 1225 1242 cc engine {75 models) Champion L203 Champion L225
Ignition system Ignition liming Refer to Chapter 58 Spark plugs: Type Gap* 1108 cc and 1242 cc (6-valve) engines Champion RC9YCC 0.9 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine ,... Champion RA4HCC 0.8 mm The spark plug gap quoted Is Diet recommenced by Champion for their specined plugs listed above. If spar* plugs of any other type ere to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer's recommendations. Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness 15 mm Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm itrfft Automatic transmission lluld drain plug 25 10 Automatic transmission fluid sump bolts 4 3 Manual transmission oil drain plug: Stage 1 12 9 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 180" Manual transmission oil filler plug 40 30 Roadwheel bolts 86 83 Spark plugs 27 20 Sump drain plug 10 7

Maintenance procedures - petrol models ia./
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal Ja*
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather all Ihe necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as It
will
drain better, and more built-up sludge will
be
removed with it. Tske care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants end other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it Is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly Improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that
the
vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug Is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using an Allen key. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove
the plug
completely (see Haynes Hint). 4 Allow some time for the old oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the
container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit
(MB
HiNT '
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump white unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream
of
oil Issuing from the sump runs into the container, net up your sleeve.
the plug. Tighten the plug securely. 6 It the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under tho oil filter, which is located on the front right-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way. Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully remove It. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the ground (if applicable).
3.6 Oil filter location (viewed from above)
11 Remove the dipstick, then pull out the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour In half the specified quantity of oil first, then wail a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes: check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before (he pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle In the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to General repair procedures in the reference Sections of this manual.
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
4 Brake warning lamp ag operation check J§
1 With the ignition key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake ftuid reservoir cap (see illustration). 2 As the button is depressed, the brake warning lamp on the instrument panel should Illuminate. 3 If the lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity tester, then refer to Chapter 12, Section 5, wd check the instrument panel bulb.
5 Front brake pad check
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels, 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the friction material of the brake pads on both front brakes- This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper (see illustration). 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads 4.1 Depress the button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap

ia«8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
5.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then
bIbo
be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four psds must tie renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground
6 Underbody sealant check
I
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively position the car over an inspection pit. 2 Check the underbody. wheel housings and side sills for rust and/or damage to the under-body sealant. If evident, repair as necessary.
7 Hose and fluid leak check ^
I
1 Visually Inspect the engine joint laces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil (liter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that.
A leak In the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust~coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak
over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by refemng to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips ore In place and In good condition, Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious probioms In the luture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated, Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all 'he cooling system components {hoses. |olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the coolmg system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gaskel with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank Is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deten orated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away Irom the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the fitter neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within tne engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Exhaust system check fe
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure thai all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the Joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often bo traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come Into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings Otherwise separate the joints {if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
9 Driveshaft gaiter check
9.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
1
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then s'owly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of Ihe outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber garters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see Illustration), If any damage or deterioration Is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of (he CV joints themselves by first holding (he driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints. wear In the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut

Every 10 000 miles - petrol models ia.q
10 Pollen filter renewal
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located under the engine bulkhead cover panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both svindscreen wiper arms. 3 Unclip the rubber
seal
from the relevant end of
the
top of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and pull out the fasteners securing the bulkhead cover panel in position. Release the cover panel Irom the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from its housing (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, securing it in position with Ihe fasteners, and seat the rubber seal on
the
bulkhead.
11 Idle speed and ^
CO
content check J and adjustment ^
1 The idle speed is controlled by the ECU via a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body and is not adjustable. 2 The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda sensor, which is mounted in the exhaust down pipe. The ECU then uses this information to modify the injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio.
3 Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
12 Steering and ^ suspension check
front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steehng rack-and-pinion gaiters for spirts, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Qrasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation Is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
12.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant tum the steering wheel back and forth about sn eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any. lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, ihe body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
13 Auxiliary drivebelt{s) check % and renewal ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special tool to cooectfyset the drivebelt tension. If access to ibis equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one. two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an Individual drivebelt.
Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up

ia.io Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support}. 4 Remove the nght-hand front wheel. 5 Remove the inner cover from under the right-hand wheeiarch for access to the right-hand side of the engine. 0 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket boll, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the auxiliary drlvebelt(s) can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt: check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear Is visible, the relevant belt should be renewed. 7 If the condition of the belt Is satisfactory, check Ihe drivebeit tension as described below.
Renewal
Alternator drivebeit Note: On certain models with power steering but without air conditioning, it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebeit ffrst, as described below. 8 Where fitted, undo the bolts and remove the belt guard from the alternator. 9 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebeit. 10 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft sensor from Ihe front of the engine (refer to Chapter 4A. Section 5, if necessary). 11 Remove the drivebeit from the engine. 12 When renewing a drivebeit. ensure that the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the two pulleys then swivel the alternator outwaids to take up any slack in the betL Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Power steering pump drivebeit 13 Slacken the bolts securing the power steering pump to the mounting bracket. 14 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting boit until all the tension is removed from the drivebeit. 15 Undo the bolts and remove the pultey guard from the power steering pump then slip the drivebeit off (he pulleys. 18 Ensuring that the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack in the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Air conditioning compressor drivebeit 17 Remove the alternator and power steering pump dnvebelts as described previously. 18 Slacken the bolts securing the compressor to the mounting bracket. 19 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until alt the tension is removed from the drivebeit, then slip the belt off the pulleys. 20 Ensuring lhat the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack In the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below.
15.7 Checking a valve clearance with a feeler blade
Tensioning 21 Correct tensioning of the belt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which Is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause wear in the alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor bearings. Note: Fiat recommend use of their special tensioning tool however the fallowing procedure will set the tension correctly. 22 The belt(s) should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys. To adjust the alternator drivebeit, slightly tighten the adjustment bolt then swivel the alternator outwards until tne beft tension Is correct. Fully tighten the adjustment bolt followed by the pivot bolt then refit the rpm sensor. 23 On models with power steering and/or air conditioning, fit the relevant drivebeit over the pulleys then turn the adjusting bolt until the tension is correct. Secure the adjusting bolt by tightening Ihe locknut, then tighten the remaining mounting bolts. Refit any remaining dnvebelts and all the components removed. 24 Refit the inner cover and wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, then reconnect the battery negative terminal,
14 Clutch adjustment check
Refer to Chapter 8. Section 2.
15.11 Using a modified C-spanner and e screwdriver to remove a shim
15 Valve clearance check ^ and adjustment S
Note: The following procedure Is not applicable to 1242 cc,
16-vatve
engines which utilise self-adjusting hydraulic tappets. 1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear has become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be accurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right* hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front road wheel. 3 Remove all spark plugs as described In Section 19. 4 Remove the camshaft cover as described In Chapter 2A. 5 Each valve clearance must be checked when the high point of the cam lobe is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances In the firing order 1-3-4-2. No
1
cylinder being at the timing bell end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between the heel of the cam and the cam follower shim of the first valve (see illustration). II necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the valve clearance for this particular valve. 8 Tum the engine, check the second valve clearance and record it. 9 Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves, recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for Inlet and exhaust valves differs • see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the engine, the valve sequence is: tnlet 2-4-5-7 Exhaust 7-3-6-$ 11 Where clearances are incorrect, the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam Is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to be depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job, otherwise you will have to make up a forked (ever to locate on the rim of the cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim {see illustration). 12 Once the shim is extracted, establish its thickness and change It for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models ia-h
clearance within specification. For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on them; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). t4 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft for easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the thinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and spark plugs. 18 lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Manifold mounting check
Refer
1O
Chapters 4A. 48 and 4D and check tne tightness of the nuts and bolts securing the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
17
Fuel
filter renewal I I
Warning: Before carrying out the !\ f°llow'n9 operation, refer to the precautions given In Safety firstI A
15.13 Shim thickness is marked on the tower face (here 4.20 mm) at the beginning of this manual, and follow them Implicitly. Petrol Is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed. Note: 1242 cc (8-vatve) engine mode's from 1998 onwards are equipped with a modified fuel system incorporating a fuel fitter integral with the fuel pump. On these engines fuel filter renewal is not required. 1 The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear of the vehicle, on the right-hand side of the fuel tank (see illustration). To gain access to the filter, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Unscrew the bolt securing the filter to its support bracket. 3 Noting the fitted position of the filter body, release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. The correct position is indicated by an arrow marked on ihe filter body 4 Remove the filter from the vehicle. Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be highly flammable, and may explode if thrown on a fire. 5 Locate the new filter into position, ensuring that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, as noted when removing the old filter. The flow direction can otherwise be determined by tracing the fuel hoses back along their length. 6 Connect the fuel hoses to the filter and lighten the clips, then locate it in the support bracket and tighten the mounting bolt.
17.1 Fuel filter location on tho right-hand side of the fuel tank 7 Start the engine, check the filter hose connections for leaks, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
18 Air fitter renewal
I
f f 08 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 1 Prise open the spring clips and withdraw the air cleaner cover a little way from the main body (see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element In position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 5 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines 6 Undo the three bolts securing the front of Ihe air cleaner cover to the main body. Lift the cover up at the front, disconnect the rear retainers and move it clear of the main body {see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 7 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 8 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean.
18.1 Prise open the spring clips... . and remove the filter element (8-valve engines)
18.6 Undo the three bolts (arrowed) and disconnect the air cleaner cover rear retainers (16-vatve engines)