1994 CHEVROLET TRACKER traction control

Features and Controls
Four-wheel Drive
If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you
can send your engine's driving power
to
all four wheels for extra traction. To shift
out of two-wheel drive and into
four-wheel drive, lock the freewheeling
hubs and move the transfer case shift
lever
to "4H" or "4L" (see the following).
You should use
"2H" for most normal
driving.
Rear wheel anti-lock brakes do
not work
when
you shift into four-wheel drive.
Your regular brakes will still work. When
you shift back into two-wheel drive, your
Freewheeling Hubs
Your vehicle may have either manual or
automatic freewheeling hubs. You must
NOTICE:
Manual
To lock or unlock the hubs, you must park
Driving
in "4H" or "4L" positions for
a long time
on dry or wet pavement
could shorten
the life of your
vehicle's drivetrain. your vehicle
(see "Shifting into
'P'
(Park)" or "Parking Your Vehicle" in the
Index) and get
out. To lock the hubs, turn
the hub dials to "LOCK."
I '
I NOTICE:
Don't drive in "2H" with the manual
locking
hubs in "LOCK." If you do.
you could damage your front drive-
shaft parts.
To unlock the hubs, turn the hub dials to
'FREE."
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Your Driving and the Road
that happens, release enough pressure on
the brakes to get the wheels rolling again
so that you can steer.
With the four-wheel drive option, you
won’t have anti-lock braking when you
shift into four-wheel drive. But
you will
have regular braking. When you shift
back into two-wheel drive, you will have
anti-lock again.
Braking in Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets
into a situation that requires hard braking.
You have the rear-wheel anti-lock braking
system. Your front wheels can stop rolling
when you brake
very hard. Once they do,
the vehicle can’t respond to your steering.
Momentum
will carry it in whatever
direction it was headed when the front
wheels stopped rolling. That could be off
the road, into the very thing you were
trying to avoid, or into traffic.
So, use a “squeeze” braking technique.
This will give you maximum braking
while maintaining steering control.
You
do this by pushing on the brake pedal
with steadily increasing pressure. When
you do, it will help maintain steering
control. In many emergencies, steering
can help you more than even the
very best
braking.
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Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because
the engine stops or the system is not
functioning, you can steer but
it will take
much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a
reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents
mentioned on the news happen on curves.
Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of
us is subject to the same laws of physics
when driving on curves. The traction of
the tires against the road surface makes
it
possible for the vehicle to change its path
when you
turn the front wheels. If there’s
no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle
going
in the same direction. If you’ve
ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice,
you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve
depends on the condition of your tires and
the road surface, the angle at which
the
curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re
in a curve, speed
is the one factor
you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp
curve. Then
you suddenly apply the
brakes. Both control systems
- steering
and braking
- have to do their work
where the tires meet the road. Adding the
hard braking can demand too much at
those places.
You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you’re
steering through a sharp curve and you
suddenly accelerate. Those two control
systems
- steering and acceleration -
can overwhelm those places where the
tires meet
the road and make you lose
control.
What should
you do if this ever happens?
Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal,
steer the vehicle the way you want it to
go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that
you should adjust your speed. Of course,
the posted speeds are based on good
weather and road conditions. Under less
favorable conditions you’ll want to go
slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you
approach a curve, do
it before you enter
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loss of Control
Let's review what driving experts say
about
what happens when the three
control system (brakes, steering and
acceleration) don't have enough friction
where
the tires meet the road to do what
the driver has asked.
In any emergency. don't give up. Keep
trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area
of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid. a driver can lose control of the
vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most
skids by taking reasonable care suited
to
existing conditions. and by not
"overdriving" those conditions. But skids
are always possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to
your Geo's three control systems. In the
braking skid your wheels are.n't rolling.
In
the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to
slip and lose cornering force. And
in the
acceleration skid too much throttle causes
the driving wheels
to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid
are best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your
foot 011' the accelerator pedal and quickly
steer the way
you want the vehicle to go.
If you start steering quickly enough. your
vehicle
may straighten out. 41ways be
ready for
;I sccond skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water,
snow. ice. gravel. or other material is on
the road. For safety, you'll want to slow
down and adjust your driving
to these
conditions.
It is important to slow down
on slippery surfaces because stopping
distance will be longer
and vehicle
control more limited.
While driving on
a surface with reduced
traction.
try your best to avoid sudden
steering, acceleration,
or braking
(including engine braking by shifting
EO a
lower gear).
Any sudden changes could
cause the tires to slide. You may
not
realize the surface is slippery until yout-
vehicle is skidding. Learn
to recognize
warning clues
~ such as enough water,
ice or packed snow
on the road to make ;1
"nlir~-or.ed surf'rlce" - and slow down
when you have any doubt.
Remember: The rex-wheel anti-lock
braking system (RWAL) helps avoid
only
a rear braking skid. In a braking skid
(where the front wheels are
no longer rolling),
release enough pressure
on the
brakes to get the front wheels rolling
again. This restores steering control. Push
the brake pedal down steadily when you
have
to stop suddenly. As long as the
I'ront wheels are rolling,
you will have
sleering control.
Driving Guidelines
This multipurpose passenger vehicle is
defined as a utility vehicle in Consumer
Information Regulations issued
by the
National I-lighway Traffic Safety
Administration (NHTSA)
of the United
States Department of Transportation.
Utility vehicles have higher ground
clearance and a narrower track to make
them capable of performing
in a wide
variety
of off-road applications. Specific
design characteristics give them a higher
center of gravity than ordinary cars. An
advantage
of the higher ground clearance
is
a better view of the road allowing you
to anticipate problems. They are not
designed for cornering
at the same speeds
as conventional 2-wheel drive vehicles
any no re than low-slunl 7 .'p '-, orts cars are
designed
to perform satisfitctorily under
off-road conditions.
If at all possible,
avoid shurp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
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Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip,
especially when going to a remote area.
Know the terrain and plan your route. You
are much less likely to get bad surprises.
Get accurate maps of trails and terrain.
Try to learn of any blocked or closed
roads.
It’s also a good idea to travel with at least
one other vehicle.
If something happens
to one of them, the other can help quickly.
Does your vehicle have a winch? If
so, be
sure to read the winch instructions. In a
remote area, a winch can be handy if you
get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to
use it properly.
Getting Familiar with Off-Road
Driving
It’s a good idea to practice in an area
that’s safe and close to home before you
go into the wilderness. Off-road driving
does require some new and different
driving skills. Here’s what we mean.
Tune your senses to different kinds of
signals. Your eyes, for example, need to
constantly sweep the terrain for
unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to
listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With
your arms, hands, feet, and body
you’ll need to respond to vibrations and
vehicle bounce.
Controlling your vehicle is the key to
successful off-road driving. One
of the
best ways to control your vehicle is to
control your speed. Here are some things
to keep in mind. At higher speeds:
0 you approach things faster and you
have less time to scan the terrain for
obstacles.
0 you have less time to react.
0 you have more vehicle bounce when
you drive over obstacles.
0 you’ll need more distance for braking,
especially since you’re on an unpaved
surface.
Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over many
different kinds of terrain. You need to be
familiar with the terrain and its many
different features. Here are some things to
consider.
Surface Conditions. Off-roading can
take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel,
rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice.
Each of these surfaces affects the steering,
acceleration, and braking of your vehicle
in different ways. Depending upon the
kind of surface you are on, you may
experience slipping, sliding, wheel
spinning, delayed acceleration, poor
traction, and longer braking distances.
Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden
obstacles can be hazardous.
A rock, log,
hole, rut, or bump can startle you if
you’re not prepared for them. Often these
obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes,
snow or even the rise and fall
of the
terrain itself. Here are some things to
consider:
0 Is the path ahead clear?
0 Will the surface texture change
abruptly up ahead?
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Your Driving and the Road
0 Does the travel take you uphill or
downhill? (There’s more discussion of
these subjects later.)
change direction quickly?
0 Will you have to stop suddenly or
When you drive over obstacles or rough
terrain, keep a firm grip
on the steering
wheel.
Ruts, troughs, or other surface
features can jerk the wheel out of your
hands
if you’re not prepared.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or
other obstacles, your wheels can leave
the
ground. If this happens, even with one or
two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle
as well or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved
surface,
it’s especially important to avoid
sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or
sudden braking.
In a way, off-road driving requires a
different kind of alertness from driving on
paved roads and highways. There are no
road signs, posted speed limits or signal
lights.
You have to use your own good
judgment about what is safe and what
isn’t.
Drinking and driving can be very
dangerous on any road. And this
is
certainly true for off-road driving. At the
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very time you need special alertness and
driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions
and judgment can be affected by even a
small amount of alcohol.
You could have
a serious - or even fatal - accident if
you drink and drive or ride with a driver
who has been drinking. (See “Drunken
Driving”
in the Index.)
Driving On Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up,
jown, or across a hill. Driving safely on
hills requires good judgment and an
understanding of what your vehicle can
md can’t do. There are some hills that
;imply can’t be driven, no matter how
well built the vehicle.
Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to
decide if
it’s one of those hills that’s just
too steep to climb, descend, or cross.
Steepness can be hard
to judge. On a very
small
hill, for example, there may be a
smooth, constant incline with only a small
change
in elevation where you can easily
see all the way to the top. On a large hill,
the incline may get steeper as you near
the top, but you may not see this because
the crest of
the hill is hidden by bushes,
grass,
or shrubs.
Here are some other things
to consider as
you approach a hill.
Is there a constant incline, or does the
hill get sharply steeper in places?
Is there good traction on the hillside,
or will the surface cause tire slipping?
Is there a straight path up or down the
hill so you won’t have to make turning
maneuvers?
Are there obstructions on the hill that
can block your path (boulders, trees,
logs or ruts)?
What’s beyond the hill?
Is there a cliff,
an embankment, a drop-off, a fence?
Get out and walk the
hill if you don’t
know. It’s the smart way to find out.
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A CAUTION:
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand,
your wheels won't get good traction. You
can't accelerate as quickly, turning is
more difficult, and you'll need longer
braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in
mud -the deeper the mud, the lower the
gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to
keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When
you drive on sand, you'll sense a
change
in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the sand
is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches
or sand dunes) your tires will tend
to sink
into the sand. This has an effect on
steering. accelerating, and braking. You
may want to reduce the air pressure
in
your tires slightly when driving on sand.
This will improve traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst
tire traction. On these surfaces, it's very
easy
to lose control. On wet ice, for
example, the traction is
so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. .4nd
if
you do get moving, poor steering and
difficult braking can cause
you to slide
out of control.
A CAUTION:
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road
driving problems. But heavy rain can
mean tlash flooding, and tlood
waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you
drive through it.
If it's deep enough to
cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust
pipe, don't
try il - you probably won't
get through.
Also, water that deep can
damage your axle and other vehicle parts.
If the water
isn't too deep, then drive
through
it slowly. At fast speeds. water
splashes on your ignition system and
your
vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if
you get your tailpipe under water. ,4nd, as
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Service and Appearance Care
When It’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new
tires
is to check the treadwear indicators,
which will appear
when your tires have
only
2/32 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining.
You need a new tire
if
0 You can see the indicators at three or
more places around
the tire.
0 You can see cord or fabric showing
through the tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut
or snagged deep enough to show cord
or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
. . ,186
0 The tire has a puncture, cut, or other
damage that can’t be repaired well
because of the size or location
of the
damage.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you
need,
look at the Certificationnire label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it
was new had a Tire Performance Criteria
Specification (TPC Spec) number on each
tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires,
get ones with that same TPC Spec
number. That way, your vehicle
will
continue to have tires that are designed to
give proper endurance, handling, speed
rating, traction, ride and other things
during normal service on your vehicle. If
your tires have an all-season tread design,
the TPC number will be followed by a
“MS” (for mud and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those
not having a TPC Spec number, make
sure they are the same size, load range,
speed rating and construction type (bias,
bias-belted or radial) as your original
tires.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the
system developed by the United States
National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature
performance. (This applies only to
vehicles sold
in the United States.)
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative
rating based on the wear rate
of the tire
when tested under controlled conditions
on a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded
150 would wear
one and a half
(1 1/2) times as well on the
government course as a tire graded 100.
The relative performance of tires depends
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upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart significantly
from the norm due to variations in driving
habits, service practices and differences in
road characteristics and climate.
Traction - A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to
lowest are: A,
B, and C. They represent
the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement
as measured under controlled conditions
on specified government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked
C
may have poor traction performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to
this tire is based on braking
(straight-ahead) traction tests and does
not include cornering (turning) traction.
Temperature - A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the
highest),
B, and C, representing the tire’s
resistance to the generation of heat and its
ability to dissipate heat when tested under
controlled conditions on a specified
indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained
high temperature can cause the material
of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire
life, and excessive temperature can lead to
sudden tire failure. The grade
C
corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet
under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A
represent higher levels of performance on
the laboratory test wheel than the
minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this
tire is established for a tire that is properly
inflated and not overloaded. Excessive
speed, underinflation, or excessive
loading, either separately or
in
combination, can cause heat buildup and
possible tire failure.
These grades are molded on the sidewalls
of passenger car tires.
While the tires available as standard or
optional equipment on General Motors
vehicles may vary with respect to these
grades, all such tires meet General Motors
performance standards and have been
approved for use on General Motors
vehicles. All passenger type
(P Metric)
tires must conform to Federal safety
requirements in addition to these grades.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned
and balanced carefully at the factory to give
you the longest tire life and best
overall performance.
In most cases, you will not need to have
your wheels aligned again. However, if
you notice unusual tire wear or your
vehicle pulling one way or the other, the
alignment may need to be reset. If you
notice your vehicle vibrating when
driving on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or
badly rusted. If wheel nuts keep coming
loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel
nuts should be replaced. If the wheel
leaks air, replace it (except some
aluminum wheels, which can sometimes
be repaired). See your Geo dealer if any
of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel
you need.
Each new wheel should have the same
load carrying capacity, diameter, width,
offset, and be mounted the same way as
the one it replaces.
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