This is a mistake. Your brakes may not
have time
to cool between hard stops.
Your brakes will wear
out much faster if
you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep
pace with
the traffic and allow realistic
following distances,
you will eliminate a
lot of unnecessary braking. That means
better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re
driving, brake normally but don’t pump
your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get
harder to push down.
If your engine stops,
you will still have some power brake
assist.
But you will use it when you brake.
Once
the power assist is used up, ir may
take longer to stop and the brake pedal
will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
Your vehicle has an advanced electronic
braking system that can help you keep
it
under control.
Here‘s
how anti-lock works. Let’s say the
road is wet. You‘re driving safely.
Suddenly an animal jumps out
in front of
you.
You slam on the brakes. Here’s what
happens
with ABS.
A computer senses that the rear wheels
are slowing down.
If one of the rear
wheels
is about to stop rolling, the
computer will work the brakes at the rear
wheels.
It is programmed to make the
most of available tire and road conditions.
R
As you brake, your computer keeps
receiving updates
on rear wheel speed and
controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti-lock doesn‘t change the
time you need
to get your foot up to the
brake pedal.
If you get too close to the
vehicle in front of you, you won’t have
time to apply your brakes
if that vehicle
suddenly
slows or stops. Always leave
enough room up ahead to stop. even
though you have anti-lock brakes.
To Use Anti-Lock:
Use rear-wheel anti-lock like regular
brakes. You may feel the brakes vibrate,
or
you may notice some noise outside
your vehicle, but
this is normal. Let
anti-lock work for
you, but remember:
Your front wheels
can still stop rolling. If
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Your Driving and the Road
that happens, release enough pressure on
the brakes to get the wheels rolling again
so that you can steer.
With the four-wheel drive option, you
won’t have anti-lock braking when you
shift into four-wheel drive. But
you will
have regular braking. When you shift
back into two-wheel drive, you will have
anti-lock again.
Braking in Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets
into a situation that requires hard braking.
You have the rear-wheel anti-lock braking
system. Your front wheels can stop rolling
when you brake
very hard. Once they do,
the vehicle can’t respond to your steering.
Momentum
will carry it in whatever
direction it was headed when the front
wheels stopped rolling. That could be off
the road, into the very thing you were
trying to avoid, or into traffic.
So, use a “squeeze” braking technique.
This will give you maximum braking
while maintaining steering control.
You
do this by pushing on the brake pedal
with steadily increasing pressure. When
you do, it will help maintain steering
control. In many emergencies, steering
can help you more than even the
very best
braking.
. . .lo4
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because
the engine stops or the system is not
functioning, you can steer but
it will take
much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a
reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents
mentioned on the news happen on curves.
Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of
us is subject to the same laws of physics
when driving on curves. The traction of
the tires against the road surface makes
it
possible for the vehicle to change its path
when you
turn the front wheels. If there’s
no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle
going
in the same direction. If you’ve
ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice,
you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve
depends on the condition of your tires and
the road surface, the angle at which
the
curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re
in a curve, speed
is the one factor
you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp
curve. Then
you suddenly apply the
brakes. Both control systems
- steering
and braking
- have to do their work
where the tires meet the road. Adding the
hard braking can demand too much at
those places.
You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you’re
steering through a sharp curve and you
suddenly accelerate. Those two control
systems
- steering and acceleration -
can overwhelm those places where the
tires meet
the road and make you lose
control.
What should
you do if this ever happens?
Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal,
steer the vehicle the way you want it to
go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that
you should adjust your speed. Of course,
the posted speeds are based on good
weather and road conditions. Under less
favorable conditions you’ll want to go
slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you
approach a curve, do
it before you enter
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loss of Control
Let's review what driving experts say
about
what happens when the three
control system (brakes, steering and
acceleration) don't have enough friction
where
the tires meet the road to do what
the driver has asked.
In any emergency. don't give up. Keep
trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area
of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid. a driver can lose control of the
vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most
skids by taking reasonable care suited
to
existing conditions. and by not
"overdriving" those conditions. But skids
are always possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to
your Geo's three control systems. In the
braking skid your wheels are.n't rolling.
In
the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to
slip and lose cornering force. And
in the
acceleration skid too much throttle causes
the driving wheels
to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid
are best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your
foot 011' the accelerator pedal and quickly
steer the way
you want the vehicle to go.
If you start steering quickly enough. your
vehicle
may straighten out. 41ways be
ready for
;I sccond skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water,
snow. ice. gravel. or other material is on
the road. For safety, you'll want to slow
down and adjust your driving
to these
conditions.
It is important to slow down
on slippery surfaces because stopping
distance will be longer
and vehicle
control more limited.
While driving on
a surface with reduced
traction.
try your best to avoid sudden
steering, acceleration,
or braking
(including engine braking by shifting
EO a
lower gear).
Any sudden changes could
cause the tires to slide. You may
not
realize the surface is slippery until yout-
vehicle is skidding. Learn
to recognize
warning clues
~ such as enough water,
ice or packed snow
on the road to make ;1
"nlir~-or.ed surf'rlce" - and slow down
when you have any doubt.
Remember: The rex-wheel anti-lock
braking system (RWAL) helps avoid
only
a rear braking skid. In a braking skid
(where the front wheels are
no longer rolling),
release enough pressure
on the
brakes to get the front wheels rolling
again. This restores steering control. Push
the brake pedal down steadily when you
have
to stop suddenly. As long as the
I'ront wheels are rolling,
you will have
sleering control.
Driving Guidelines
This multipurpose passenger vehicle is
defined as a utility vehicle in Consumer
Information Regulations issued
by the
National I-lighway Traffic Safety
Administration (NHTSA)
of the United
States Department of Transportation.
Utility vehicles have higher ground
clearance and a narrower track to make
them capable of performing
in a wide
variety
of off-road applications. Specific
design characteristics give them a higher
center of gravity than ordinary cars. An
advantage
of the higher ground clearance
is
a better view of the road allowing you
to anticipate problems. They are not
designed for cornering
at the same speeds
as conventional 2-wheel drive vehicles
any no re than low-slunl 7 .'p '-, orts cars are
designed
to perform satisfitctorily under
off-road conditions.
If at all possible,
avoid shurp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
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A CAUTION:
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand,
your wheels won't get good traction. You
can't accelerate as quickly, turning is
more difficult, and you'll need longer
braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in
mud -the deeper the mud, the lower the
gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to
keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When
you drive on sand, you'll sense a
change
in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the sand
is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches
or sand dunes) your tires will tend
to sink
into the sand. This has an effect on
steering. accelerating, and braking. You
may want to reduce the air pressure
in
your tires slightly when driving on sand.
This will improve traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst
tire traction. On these surfaces, it's very
easy
to lose control. On wet ice, for
example, the traction is
so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. .4nd
if
you do get moving, poor steering and
difficult braking can cause
you to slide
out of control.
A CAUTION:
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road
driving problems. But heavy rain can
mean tlash flooding, and tlood
waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you
drive through it.
If it's deep enough to
cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust
pipe, don't
try il - you probably won't
get through.
Also, water that deep can
damage your axle and other vehicle parts.
If the water
isn't too deep, then drive
through
it slowly. At fast speeds. water
splashes on your ignition system and
your
vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if
you get your tailpipe under water. ,4nd, as
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Your Driving and the Road
It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment
in good shape and keep your windshield
washer tank filled. Replace your
windshield wiper inserts when they show
signs of streaking or missing areas on the
windshield, or when strips of rubber start
to separate from the inserts.
Driving too fast through large water
puddles or even going through some car
washes can cause problems, too. The
water may affect your brakes. Try to
avoid puddles. But
if you can’t, try to
slow down before you hit them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much
water can build
up under your tires that
they can actually ride on the water. This
can happen if the road is
wet enough and
you’re going fast enough. When your
vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or no
contact
with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often.
But it
can if your tires haven’t much tread or
if
the pressure in one or more is low. It can
happen
if a lot of water is standing on the
road.
If you can see reflections from trees,
telephone poles, or other vehicles, and
raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface,
there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast
rule about hydroplaning. The best advice
is to slow down when it is raining.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlights -
not just your parking lights - to help
make you more visible to others.
0 Besides slowing down, allow some
extra following distance. And be
especially careful when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more
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0
0
Wiper Blades: Are they in good
shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:
Have you checked all levels?
Lights: Are they all working? Are the
lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a
safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread
good enough for long-distance
driving? Are the tires all inflated to
the recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the
weather outlook along your route?
Should you delay your trip a short
time to avoid a major storm system?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date
maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as
“highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain
falling asleep at the wheel? Call
it
highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or
whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch
of road with
the same scenery, along with
the hum of the tires
on the road, the drone
of the engine, and the rush of the wind
against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen
to you! If it
does, your vehicle can leave the road in
less than a second, and
you could crash
and be injured.
What can you do about highway
hypnosis? First, be aware that
it can
happen.
Then here are some tips:
0 Make sure your vehicle is well
ventilated, with a comfortably cool
interior.
0 Keep your eyes moving. Scan the
road ahead and to
the sides. Check
your mirrors and your instruments
frequently.
0 If you get sleepy, pull off the road into
a rest, service, or parking area and
take a nap, get some exercise,
or both.
For safety, treat drowsiness on the
highway as an emergency.
Hill and Mountain
Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is
different from driving
in flat or rolling
terrain. If you drive regularly in steep
country, or
if you’re planning to visit
there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable.
(See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index
for information about driving off-road.)
Keep your vehicle in good shape.
Check all fluid levels and also the
brakes, tires, cooling system and
transmission. These parts can work
hard
on mountain roads.
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0
distance is less than 12 inches, take
the foot off the trailer tongue.
Will you have to make any holes
in
the body of your vehicle when you
install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then
be sure
to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don't
seal them, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle (see "Carbon Monoxide"
in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between
your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the
safety chains under the tongue of the
trailer
so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if
it becomes separated from the
hitch. Instructions about safety chains
may be provided by the hitch
manufacturer
or by the trailer
manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer's
recommendation
for attaching safety
chains. Always leave just enough slack
so
you can turn with pour rig. And, never
allow safety chains
to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000
pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its
own brakes -and they must be adequate.
Be sure
to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to
install, ad-just and maintain them properly.
Don't tap into your vehicle's brake
system
if the trailer's brake system
will use more than 0.02 cubic inch
(0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle's
master cylinder.
If it does. both
systems won't work well. You could
even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer brake parts take
3,000
psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not,
the trailer brake system must not be
used
with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far. then
make the brake fluid tap at the port on
the master cylinder that sends fluid
to
the rear brakes. But don't use copper
tubing for
this. If you do, it will bend
and finally break off. Use steel brake
tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount
of experience. Before setting out for the
open road, you'll want
to get to know
your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel
of handling and braking with the added
weight
of the trailer. And always keep in
mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly so
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch
and platform. safety chains, electrical
contwxtor. lights, tires and mirror
adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer
moving and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure the brakes
are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection
at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be
sure that the load is secure. and that the
lights and any trailer brakes are
still
working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the
vehicle ahead as
you would when driving
your vehicle without
a trailer. This can
help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up
ahead when you're towing a tnliler. And.
because you're
B good deal longer, you'll
need to go much farther beyond the
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Problems on the Road
7, Then replace the pressure cap. At any
time during this procedure,
if coolant
begins
to flow out of the filler neck,
reinstall
the pressure cap. Be sure the
arrows on
the pressure cap line up like
this.
. .I46
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while
you’re driving, especially
if you maintain
your tires properly.
If air goes out of a
tire, it’s much more likely to leak out
slowly.
But if you should ever have a
“blowout.” here are a few tips about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire Fails, the flat tire will create
a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that
side. Tdke your foot off
the accelerator
pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer
to maintain lane position, then
gently brake to a stop well out
of the
traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve,
acts much like
a skid and may require the
same correction you’d use
in a skid. In
any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering
the way you
want the vehicle to go. It rnay be very
bumpy and noisy, but
you can still steer.
fently brake to a stop, well off the road
if possible.
If a tire goes tlat, the next section shows
how to use your jacking equipment
to
:hange a tlat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes tlat, avoid further tire and
wheel damage by driving slowly
to a
level place.
Turn on your hazard warning
flashers.
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