1993 FORD MONDEO key

5Undo the sensor’s retaining screw and
withdraw the sensor. The sensor’s bracket
cannot be unbolted from the cylinder
block/crankcase unless the transmission and
flywheel/driveplate have been removed (see
Chapter 2).
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
General information
The charging system includes the
alternator, an internal voltage regulator, a no-
charge (or “ignition”) warning light, the
battery, and the wiring between all the
components. The charging system supplies
electrical power for the ignition system, the
lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven
by the auxiliary drivebelt at the front (right-
hand end) of the engine.
The purpose of the voltage regulator is to
limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value.
This prevents power surges, circuit overloads,
etc., during peak voltage output.
The charging system doesn’t ordinarily
require periodic maintenance. However, the
drivebelt, battery and wires and connections
should be inspected at the intervals outlined
in Chapter 1.
The dashboard warning light should come
on when the ignition key is turned to positions
“II” or “III”, then should go off immediately the
engine starts. If it remains on, or if it comes on
while the engine is running, there is a
malfunction in the charging system (see
Section 11). If the light does not come on
when the ignition key is turned, and the bulb is
sound (see Chapter 12), there is a fault in the
alternator.
Precautions
Be very careful when making electrical
circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with
an alternator, and note the following:
(a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator
from the battery, be sure to note the
polarity.
(b) Before using arc-welding equipment to
repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect
the wires from the alternator and the
battery terminals.
(c) Never start the engine with a battery
charger connected.
(d) Always disconnect both battery leads
before using a battery charger.
(e) The alternator is driven by an engine
drivebelt which could cause serious injury
if your hand, hair or clothes become
entangled in it with the engine running.
(f) Because the alternator is connected
directly to the battery, it could arc or
cause a fire if overloaded or shorted-out.
(g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator,
and secure it with rubber bands, beforesteam-cleaning or pressure-washing the
engine.
(h) Never disconnect the alternator terminals
while the engine is running.
1If a malfunction occurs in the charging
circuit, don’t automatically assume that the
alternator is causing the problem. First check
the following items:
(a) Check the tension and condition of the
auxiliary drivebelt - renew it if it is worn or
deteriorated (see Chapter 1).
(b) Ensure the alternator mounting bolts and
nuts are tight.
(c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and
the electrical connections at the
alternator; they must be in good
condition, and tight.
(d) Check the large main fuses in the engine
compartment (see Chapter 12). If any is
blown, determine the cause, repair the
circuit and renew the fuse (the vehicle
won’t start and/or the accessories won’t
work if the fuse is blown).
(e) Start the engine and check the alternator
for abnormal noises - for example, a
shrieking or squealing sound may indicate
a badly-worn bearing or brush.
(f) Make sure that the battery is fully-charged
- one bad cell in a battery can cause
overcharging by the alternator.
(g) Disconnect the battery leads (negative
first, then positive). Inspect the battery
posts and the lead clamps for corrosion.
Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see
Section 3 and Chapter 1). Reconnect the
lead to the negative terminal.
(h) With the ignition and all accessories
switched off, insert a test light between
the battery negative post and the
disconnected negative lead clamp:
(1) If the test light does not come on, re-
attach the clamp and proceed to the next
step.
(2) If the test light comes on, there is a short
in the electrical system of the vehicle. The
short must be repaired before the
charging system can be checked.
(3) To find the short, disconnect the
alternator wiring harness:
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is
at fault.
(b) If the light stays on, remove each fuse
until it goes out - this will tell you
which component is short-circuited.
2Using a voltmeter, check the battery
voltage with the engine off. It should be
approximately 12 volts.
3Start the engine and check the battery
voltage again. Increase engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; it should
now be approximately 13.5 to 14.6 volts.
4Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg the headlights, heated rear window andheater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts. The voltage may drop
and then come back up; it may also be
necessary to increase engine speed slightly,
even if the charging system is working
properly.
5If the voltage reading is greater than the
specified charging voltage, renew the voltage
regulator (see Section 13).
6If the voltmeter reading is less than that
specified, the fault may be due to worn
brushes, weak brush springs, a faulty voltage
regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase
winding, or worn or damaged slip rings. The
brushes and slip rings may be checked (see
Section 13), but if the fault persists, the
alternator should be renewed or taken to an
auto-electrician for testing and repair.
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1.
2Remove the plenum chamber (see Chap-
ter 4).
3Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the wiring
from the alternator (see illustration). If
additional working clearance is required, undo
the right-hand of the three screws securing
the wiring “rail” to the rear of the inlet
manifold.
4Jack up and support the front right-hand
corner of the vehicle. Remove the auxiliary
drivebelt and the engine oil filter - place a wad
of rag to soak up the spilled oil (see Chap-
ter 1). Rather than refit a used filter, you are
advised to drain the engine oil, and then to fit
a new filter and refill the engine with clean oil
on reassembly. Where an engine oil cooler is
fitted, it may prove necessary to remove this
as well, to provide the clearance necessary to
remove the alternator (see Chapter 2, Part A).
5Unscrew the two bolts securing the power
steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the front suspension subframe. With the
front wheels in the straight-ahead position,
disconnect the right-hand track rod end from
the steering knuckle (see Chapter 10).
6Remove the mounting bolts and nuts (one
12 Alternator-
removal and refitting
11 Charging system- testing
10 Charging system - general
information and precautions
Engine electrical systems 5•5
5
12.3 Disconnecting alternator wiring
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at the top, two at the bottom). Withdraw the
alternator from the engine, and manoeuvre it
out through the wheel arch (see illustration).
Do not drop it, it is fragile.
7If you are renewing the alternator, take the
old one with you when purchasing a
replacement unit. Make sure that the new or
rebuilt unit is identical to the old alternator.
Look at the terminals - they should be the
same in number, size and location as the
terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at
the identification markings - they will be
stamped in the housing, or printed on a tag or
plaque affixed to the housing. Make sure that
these numbers are the same on both
alternators.
8Many new/rebuilt alternators do not have a
pulley installed, so you may have to switch the
pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt one.
When buying an alternator, ask about the
installation of pulleys - some auto-electrical
specialists will perform this service free of
charge.
9Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, referring where necessary to the
relevant Chapters of this manual. Tighten all
fasteners to the specified torque wrench
settings.
10Check the charging voltage to verify
proper operation of the alternator (see Sec-
tion 11).
Note:This procedure assumes that
replacement parts of the correct type have
been obtained. At the time of writing, no
individual alternator components were
available as separate replacement Ford parts.
An auto electrical specialist should be able to
supply parts such as brushes.
The following procedure is for the Bosch
unit fitted to the project vehicle - details may
vary for other alternator types.
1Remove the alternator from the vehicle (see
Section 12) and place it on a clean
workbench.
2Remove the three screws, and withdraw the
plastic end cover (see illustration).3Remove the two voltage regulator/brush
holder mounting screws.
4Remove the regulator/brush holder from the
end frame (see illustration). If you are
renewing the assembly, proceed to para-
graph 8, install the new unit, reassemble the
alternator, and refit it to the engine (see
Section 12). If you are going to check the
brushes, proceed to the next paragraph.
5Measure the exposed length of each brush,
and compare it to the minimum length listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. If the length of
either brush is less than the specified
minimum, renew the assembly.
6Make sure that each brush moves smoothly
in the brush holder.
7Check that the slip rings - the ring of
copper on which each brush bears - are
clean. Wipe them with a solvent-moistened
cloth; if either appears scored or blackened,
take the alternator to a repair specialist for
advice.
8Refit the voltage regulator/brush holder,
ensuring that the brushes bear correctly on
the slip rings, and that they compress into
their holders. Tighten the screws securely.
9Install the rear cover, and tighten the
screws securely.
10Refit the alternator (see Section 12).
General information
The sole function of the starting system is
to turn over the engine quickly enough to
allow it to start.
The starting system consists of the battery,
the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and the
wires connecting them. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.
The solenoid/starter motor assembly is
installed on the rear upper part of the engine,
next to the transmission bellhousing.
When the ignition key is turned to position
“III”, the starter solenoid is actuated through
the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid
then connects the battery to the starter. The
battery supplies the electrical energy to thestarter motor, which does the actual work of
cranking the engine.
The starter motor on a vehicle equipped
with automatic transmission can be operated
only when the selector lever is in Park or
Neutral (“P” or “N”).
If the alarm system is armed or activated,
the starter motor cannot be operated. The
same applies with the engine immobiliser
system (where fitted).
Precautions
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the starting system:
(a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor
can overheat it, and cause serious
damage. Never operate the starter motor
for more than 15 seconds at a time
without pausing to allow it to cool for at
least two minutes. Excessive starter
operation will also risk unburned fuel
collecting in the catalytic converter’s
element, causing it to overheat when the
engine does start (see Chapter 6).
(b) The starter is connected directly to the
battery, and could arc or cause a fire if
mishandled, overloaded or shorted-out.
(c) Always detach the lead from the negative
terminal of the battery before working on
the starting system (see Section 1).
Note:Before diagnosing starter problems,
make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and ensure that the alarm/engine immobiliser
system is not activated.
1If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that, on
automatic transmission models, the selector
lever is in Park or Neutral (“P” or “N”).
2Make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and that all leads, both at the battery and
starter solenoid terminals, are clean and
secure.
3If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch or (when
applicable) the reduction gears in the starter
motor may be slipping, in which case the
15 Starting system - testing
14 Starting system - general
information and precautions
13 Alternator brushes and
voltage regulator - renewal
5•6 Engine electrical systems
12.6 Alternator must be withdrawn
through right-hand front wheel arch13.2 Renewing voltage regulator/brush
holder - Bosch alternator. Remove three
screws and withdraw end cover . . .13.4 . . . then remove regulator/brush
holder assembly (secured by two screws)
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caliper bore, to provide room for the new
brake pads. A C-clamp can be used to
accomplish this. As the piston is depressed to
the bottom of the caliper bore, the fluid in the
master cylinder will rise slightly. Make sure
that there is sufficient space in the brake fluid
reservoir to accept the displaced fluid, and if
necessary, syphon some off first.
6Fit the new pads using a reversal of the
removal procedure, but tighten the guide
bolts to the torque wrench setting given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter.
7On completion, firmly depress the brakepedal a few times, to bring the pads to their
normal working position. Check the level of
the brake fluid in the reservoir, and top-up if
necessary.
8Give the vehicle a short road test, to make
sure that the brakes are functioning correctly,
and to bed-in the new linings to the contours
of the disc. New linings will not provide
maximum braking efficiency until they have
bedded-in; avoid heavy braking as far as
possible for the first hundred miles or so.
Note:Refer to the warning at the beginning of
the previous Section before proceeding.Removal
1Apply the handbrake. Loosen the front
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front wheel.
2Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible hose
leading to the front brake caliper. This will
minimise brake fluid loss during subsequent
operations (see illustration).
3Loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the
union on the caliper end of the flexible brake
hose (see illustration).
4Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 2.
3 Front brake caliper -
removal, overhaul and refitting
9•4 Braking system
2.3B Prise the plastic covers from the
ends of the two guide pins2.3C Using a 7 mm Allen key, unscrew . . .2.3D . . . and remove the guide bolts
securing the caliper to the carrier bracket
2.3E Withdraw the caliper from the disc,
and support it on an axle stand to avoid
straining the hydraulic hose. The outer pad
will normally remain in position against the
disc, but the inner pad will stay attached to
the piston in the caliper2.3F Pull the inner pad from the piston in
the caliper
3.2 Brake hose clamp fitted to the front
flexible brake hose3.3 Loosening the flexible brake hose at
the caliper3.6 Removing the caliper carrier bracket
2.3G Remove the outer pad from the
caliper frame. Brush all dust and dirt from
the caliper, pads and disc, but do not
inhale it, as it may be harmful to health.
Scrape any corrosion from the disc.
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11Locate one of the circlips in the outer
groove of the knuckle.
12Press or drive the new bearing into the
knuckle until it contacts the circlip, using a
length of metal tube of diameter slightly less
than the outer race. Do not apply any
pressure to the inner race.
13Locate the remaining circlip in the inner
groove of the knuckle.
14Support the inner race on a length of
metal tube, then press or drive the hub fully
into the bearing.
15Refit the steering knuckle and hub
assembly as described in Section 2.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front wheel.
2Unbolt the brake hose support bracket from
the front of the suspension strut (see
illustration).
3Remove the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9, but do not disconnect the flexible
hydraulic hose from the caliper. Suspend the
caliper from a suitable point under the wheel
arch, taking care not to strain the hose.
4Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckleusing a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
5Remove the ABS sensor (when fitted) from
the steering knuckle, as described in Chapter 9.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint. Disconnect
the gaiter from the CV joint housing.
7Remove the nut and disconnect the anti-roll
bar link from the strut. Note that, on models
fitted with ABS, the ABS wheel sensor wiring
support bracket is located beneath the nut
(see illustration).
8Note which way round the lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle; if it is
tight, prise the clamp open carefully using a
large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the
separation procedure.
9Where applicable, disconnect the adaptive
damping wiring multi-plug at the strut, and
unclip the wire.
10Support the strut and steering knuckle on
an axle stand. Working inside the engine
compartment, remove the strut cap (if fitted).
Unscrew and remove the front suspension
strut upper mounting nut, holding the piston
rod stationary with an 8 mm Allen key (see
illustration).
11Lower the suspension strut, together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle, from
under the wheel arch, withdrawing the tripod
on the inner end of the driveshaft from the CV
joint housing.12Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt
securing the steering knuckle assembly to the
front suspension strut, noting which way
round it is fitted. Prise open the clamp using a
wedge-shaped tool, and release the knuckle
from the strut (see illustrations).
Refitting
13With the clamp prised open, locate the
front suspension strut on the steering knuckle,
and refit the pinch-bolt with its head facing
forwards. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque.
14Locate the suspension strut (together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle) in its
upper mounting, and loosely screw on the
nut.
15Locate the tripod on the inner end of the
driveshaft in the CV joint housing, then
manipulate the gaiter onto the housing, and fit
a new clip.
16Where applicable, reconnect the adaptive
damping multi-plug, and fit the wire in the clip.
17Locate the lower arm balljoint fully in the
bottom of the steering knuckle. Refit the
clamp bolt and tighten it to the specified
torque.
18Reconnect the anti-roll bar link to the
strut, and tighten the nut to the specified
torque. On models fitted with ABS, do not
forget to locate the sensor wiring support
bracket beneath the nut.
19Where fitted, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
20Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering knuckle, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
21Refit the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9.
22Refit the brake hose support bracket to
the strut, and tighten the bolt.
23Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
24Tighten the suspension strut upper
mounting nut to the specified torque, while
4 Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
4.2 Removing the brake hose support
bracket from the front of the front
suspension strut4.7 Removing the anti-roll bar link and
ABS sensor wiring bracket4.10 Front suspension strut upper
mounting nut
4.12A Steering knuckle-to-strut pinch-bolt4.12B Releasing the knuckle from the strut
procarmanuals.com

holding the piston rod with an 8 mm Allen key.
If the adaptor needed to do this is not
available, the nut can be tightened initially
with a ring spanner while the piston rod is
held. Final tightening can then be carried out
using a torque wrench and a conventional
socket (see illustration).
Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the front suspension
strut, a tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained.
Do not attempt to use makeshift methods.
Uncontrolled release of the spring could
cause damage and personal injury. Use a
high-quality spring compressor, and
carefully follow the tool manufacturer’s
instructions provided with it. After removing
the coil spring with the compressor still
fitted, place it in a safe, isolated area.
1If the front suspension struts exhibit signs
of wear (leaking fluid, loss of damping
capability, sagging or cracked coil springs)
then they should be dismantled and
overhauled as necessary. The struts
themselves cannot be serviced, and should
be renewed if faulty, but the springs and
related components can be renewed. To
maintain balanced characteristics on both
sides of the vehicle, the components on both
sides should be renewed at the same time.
2With the strut removed from the vehicle, cleanaway all external dirt, then mount it in a vice.
3Fit the coil spring compressor tools
(ensuring that they are fully engaged), and
compress the spring until all tension is relieved
from the upper mounting (see illustration).
4Hold the strut piston with an Allen key, andunscrew the thrust bearing retaining nut with a
ring spanner (see illustration).
5Withdraw the top mounting, thrust bearing,
upper spring seat and spring, followed by the
gaiter and the bump stop (see illustrations).
6If a new spring is to be fitted, the original
5 Front suspension strut -
overhaul
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
10
5.5A Front suspension strut components
1 Cap
2 Nut
3 Retainer
4 Nut
5 Top mounting
6 Thrust bearing7 Upper spring seat
8 Spring
9 Bump stop
10 Gaiter
11 Lower spring seat12 Strut
13 Steering knuckle
14 Clamp bolt
15 Solenoid valve for models
with adaptive damping
4.24 Final tightening of the front
suspension strut upper mounting nut5.3 Coil spring compressor tools fitted to
the coil spring5.4 Unscrewing the nut from the top of the
strut
5.5B Removing the top mounting from the strut5.5C Removing the gaiter5.5D Removing the bump stop
procarmanuals.com

2Position a trolley jack under the coil spring
area of the rear lower suspension arm, to
keep the coil spring in compression.
3Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt (see illustration).
4Unscrew and remove the upper mounting
bolt, and withdraw the shock absorber from
under the vehicle.
Testing
5Check the mounting rubbers for damage
and deterioration. If they are worn, they may
be renewed separately from the shock
absorber body.
6Mount the shock absorber in a vice,
gripping it by the lower mounting. Examine
the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage.
Test the operation of the shock absorber by
moving it through a full stroke, and then
through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In
both cases, the resistance felt should be
smooth and continuous. If the resistance is
jerky or uneven, the shock absorber should be
renewed.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but tighten the mounting bolts to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and remove the washers
and bushes securing the anti-roll bar links to
the rear lower arms (see illustrations).
3Using a Torx key, unscrew the bolts
securing the anti-roll bar mounting clamps to
the rear suspension crossmember; release the
clamps, and withdraw the anti-roll bar from
under the vehicle (see illustration).
4Examine the rubber bushes for the
mounting clamps and links, and if necessary
renew them. The links are available
individually.
Refitting
5Locate the anti-roll bar on the rear
crossmember, then refit the clamps and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
6Refit the anti-roll bar links to the rear lower
arms, together with the bushes and washers.
Tighten the nuts to the specified torque, while
holding the actual links stationary in their
central position.
7Refit the rear wheels, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
Note:Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension coil spring, a tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be obtained.
Careful use of conventional coil spring
compressors will prove satisfactory.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
2Support the weight of the rear lower arm
beneath the coil spring position with a trolley
jack.
3Fit the coil spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged), and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting.
4Unscrew the nut, and remove the washerand bush attaching the anti-roll bar link to the
rear lower arm.
5Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
rear lower arm to the knuckle (see
illustration).
6Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
front lower arm to the knuckle (see
illustration).
7Lower the rear lower arm, and withdraw the
coil spring from under the vehicle. Take care
to keep the compressor tool in full
engagement with the coil spring (see
illustration).
8If a new coil spring is to be fitted, the
original coil spring must be released from the
compressor. If it is to be re-used, the coil
spring can be left in compression.
21 Rear coil spring (Estate
models) - removal and refitting20 Rear anti-roll bar and links
(Estate models) -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
10
20.3 Anti-roll bar mounting clamp on the
rear suspension crossmember21.5 Rear lower arm-to-knuckle mounting
bolt21.6 Front lower arm-to-knuckle mounting
bolt
19.3 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolt (Estate)20.2A Mounting nut (arrowed) and rubber
bush securing the rear anti-roll bar link to
the rear lower arm
20.2B View of the anti-roll bar link nut
through the rear lower arm
procarmanuals.com

2Turn the steering wheel so that the front
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
3Unscrew the screws, and remove the
steering column upper and lower shrouds.
4From the rear of the steering wheel,
unscrew the air bag module mounting screws.
5Carefully lift the module from the steering
wheel, and disconnect the air bag multi-plug
and horn wiring connections.
Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards as
a precaution against accidental
operation.
6Make sure that the steering lock is not
engaged. Unscrew the retaining bolt from the
centre of the steering wheel (see illustration).
7Remove the steering wheel from the top ofthe column, while feeding the horn and air bag
wiring through the hole in the steering wheel
hub (see illustration).
Refitting
8Make sure that the front wheels are still
facing straight-ahead, then locate the steering
wheel on the top of the steering column.
9Refit the retaining bolt, and tighten it to the
specified torque while holding the steering
wheel (see illustration). Do not tighten the
bolt with the steering lock engaged, as this
may damage the lock.
10Reconnect the horn wiring connections
and air bag multi-plug.
11Locate the air bag module/horn contact
on the steering wheel, then insert the
mounting screws and tighten them.12Refit the steering column upper and lower
shrouds. Insert and tighten the screws.
13Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Warning: All models are equipped
with an air bag system. Make
sure that the safety
recommendations given in
Chapter 12 are followed, to prevent
personal injury.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
Warning: Before proceeding, wait
a minimum of 15 minutes, as a
precaution against accidental
firing of the air bag unit. This
period ensures that any stored energy in
the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2Turn the steering wheel so that the front
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
3Remove the ignition key, then turn the
steering wheel slightly as necessary until the
steering lock engages.
4Unscrew the screws, and remove the
steering column lower and upper shrouds. As
the lower shroud is being removed, it will be
necessary to remove the rubber ring from the
ignition switch/steering lock (see
illustrations).
28 Steering column - removal,
inspection and refitting
10•18 Suspension and steering systems
27.6 Removing the steering wheel
retaining bolt27.7 Feeding the horn and air bag wiring
through the hole in the steering wheel hub27.9 Tightening the steering wheel
retaining bolt
28.4C . . . and remove the lower shroud28.4D Upper shroud retaining screws
(arrowed)
28.4A Unscrew the screws from the lower
shroud . . .28.4B . . . remove the rubber ring . . .
28.4E Removing the upper shroud
procarmanuals.com

15Locate the steering column shaft on the
flexible coupling, swivel the clamp plate
round, then insert the bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
16Refit the driver’s side lower trim panel.
17Refit the steering column upper and lower
shrouds.
18Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Turn the steering wheel so that the front
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
Remove the ignition key, then turn the
steering wheel slightly as necessary until the
steering lock engages.
3Unscrew the clamp plate bolt securing the
steering column shaft to the flexible coupling.
Swivel the clamp plate around, and disengage
it from the flexible coupling stub.
4Carefully prise the rubber boot from the
bulkhead, and withdraw it into the passenger
compartment. Take care not to damage the
sealing lip of the boot.
5Using an Allen key, unscrew the clamp bolt
securing the flexible coupling to the pinion
shaft on the steering gear, and withdraw the
coupling from inside the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but tighten the clamp bolts to the
specified torque. Make sure that the rubber
boot engages correctly in the bulkhead and
on the flexible coupling.
Removal
1Remove the steering column flexible
coupling as described in Section 29.
2Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
3Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the
rear engine mounting from the transmission
and underbody.
4Extract the split pins from the track rod end
balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and
detach the rods from the arms on the steering
knuckles using a conventional balljoint
removal tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seals.
5Position a suitable container beneath the
steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts
securing the power steering fluid supply,
return, and cooler lines to the steering gear.
Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the
clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the
fluid to drain into the container. Cover the
apertures in the steering gear and also the
ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit.
6Unscrew and remove the steering gear
mounting bolts. The bolts are located on top
of the steering gear, and are difficult to reach.
Ideally, the special U-shaped Ford spanner
should be used, but it is just possible to reach
them with a normal spanner (see illustration).
7Withdraw the steering gear through the
wheel arch.
Refitting
8If the steering gear is being replaced with a
new one, the new unit will be supplied
together with union nuts already fitted. The
new nuts must only be used with new feed
and return lines - otherwise, they must be
removed and discarded. If the original lines
and union nuts are being used, the Teflon
rings on the union nuts must be renewed. To
do this, the rings must be expanded
individually onto a fitting adaptor (see
illustration), then located in the grooves of
the union nuts.
9Locate the steering gear on the subframe,
and insert the two mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque (see illustration).
Note that, if the special Ford tool is being
used, the bottom of the tool must be turned
anti-clockwise in order to tighten the
mounting bolts.10Remove the covers from the apertures on
the steering gear, then reconnect the fluid
lines and tighten the union nuts to the
specified torque. Refit the clamps and tighten
the bolts.
11Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nuts
to the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert new split pins, and
bend them back to secure.
12Refit the rear engine mounting to the
transmission and underbody, and tighten the
bolts to the specified torque.
13Refit the front wheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground.
14Refit the steering column flexible coupling
with reference to Section 29.
15Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.
16Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
clamp plate bolt securing the steering column
shaft to the flexible coupling. Swivel the clamp
plate around, and disengage it from the
flexible coupling stub.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both wheels.
4On manual transmission models,
disconnect the gearchange linkage and
support rods from the transmission, as
described in Chapter 7, Part A.
5Remove the exhaust downpipe complete,
as described in Chapter 4.
6Remove the cover from under the radiator
by unscrewing the screws and releasing the
clips.
31 Power steering gear
(left-hand-drive models with
ABS) - removal and refitting
30 Power steering gear (all except
left-hand-drive models with
ABS) - removal and refitting
29 Steering column flexible
coupling - removal and refitting
10•20 Suspension and steering systems
30.6 U-shaped Ford spanner for
unscrewing the steering gear mounting
bolts
30.8 Using an adaptor to fit the Teflon
rings to the union nuts
1 Adaptor 2 Teflon ring 3 Union nut
4 Groove location for the Teflon ring
30.9 Tightening the steering gear
mounting bolts using the U-shaped
spanner (arrowed)
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