start bralung. If you must brake on the through lane, and
if there
is traffic close behind you, you can allow a little
extra time and flash your brake lights (in addition to your turn signal) as extra warning that you are about to
slow down and exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed
according to your speedometer, not to your sense of
motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds,
you may tend to think you are going slower than you
actually are. For example,
40 mph (65 km/h) might
seem like only
20 mph (30 km/h). Obviously, this could
lead to serious trouble on a ramp designed for
20 mph
(30 krn/h)!
Driving a Long Distance
Although most long trips today are made on freeways,
there are still many made on regular highways.
Long-distance driving on freeways and regular
highways is the same in some ways. The trip has to be
planned and the vehicle prepared, you drive at
higher-than-city speeds, and there are longer turns
behind the wheel. You’ll enjoy your trip more if you and
your vehicle are
in good shape. Here are some tips for a
successful long trip.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you’re not fresh
-- such as after a day’s
work
-- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part
of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,
you’ll find experienced and able service experts in
Buick dealerships all across North America. They’ll be
ready and willing to help
if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
0 Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
WiDer Blades: Are they in good shape/
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked
all levels?
0 Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
0 Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving?
Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
168
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you
drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and
transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain
roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the
slowing down. Don’t make your brakes do it all.
Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or
long hill. That way, you will slow down without
excessive use of your brakes.
I 170
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
, how to do it:
1 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into.“P”
I (Park) yet.
I 2. Have someone place chocks under.the trailer wheels.
1
I
I I
I 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to
“F’” (Park).
5. Release the regular brakes.
,. I I
~ When You Are Ready to Leave After
I Parking on a Hill
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these sections before
you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are
tight.
I 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
0 Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
284
I1
A CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and
injure you even when the engine is not running
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any
underhood electric fan.
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and
start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline,.
oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and
other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others
I could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill
things that
will burn onto a hot engine.
I
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on
properly.
Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly. '
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle
fluid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90 ’ F (32 ’ C).
0 At high speed .for quite a while.
In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180’F to 200’F (82OC
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50’F
(1 0 C). If it’s colder than 50 OF (10 ’ C), you may have
to drive longer.
To’check the fluid level:
to 93
“C).
0
e
0
Park your vehicle on
a level place.
Place the
shift lever in “F”’ (Park) with the parking
brake applied.
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds
in each range. Then, position the shift
lever
in “P,’ (Park).
Let the engine
run at idle far three to five minutes. Then; without shutting off the engine, follow these
steps:
.I. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
2. . Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
1 Brake Master Cylinder
Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with
1 DOT-3 brake fluid. won’t work
at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’
your brake fluid. Adding brake. fluid won’t correct a
leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then
you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake
linings.
You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as
necessary, only when work is done
on the brake
hydraulic system.
I
A CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on
the engine. The fluid will burn
if the engine is hot
enough. You or others could be burned, and your
vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only
when work is done on the br,
e hl ‘raulic
system.
1
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in
your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the
brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings
are put in,
the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that
fluid is leaking out
of the brake system. If it is, you
should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means
that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake
warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning
Light’’
in the Index.
What to Add:
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake
fluid
-- such as Delco Supreme and regular 11 (GM part
#1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only.
I
236
Explanation of Scheduled Maintenance equipped with grease fittings, lubricate the
Services suspension and steering linkage.
Below are explanations
of the services listed in $chediie ‘ ‘ 3. Throttle Body Mounting; Bolt Torque (3.3L Code . , I:
I and Schedule 11.
The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in
Section
D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle
uses these. All parts should be replaced and all
necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives
the vehicle.
NOTE:
To determine your engine’s displacement and
code, see “Engine 1dentific.ation” in the Index.
1. Engine Oil and Filter Change* -- Always use SG
Energy Conserving
I1 oils of proper viscosity. The
“SG, designation may be shown alone or in
combination with others, such as “SG/CC”,
“SG/CD” or “SF,
SG, CC,” etc. To determine the
preferred viscosity for your vehicle’s engine (e.g.,
SAE 5W-30 or SAE 10W-30), see “Engine Oil” in
the Index.
2. Chassis Lubrication -- Lubricate the transaxle shift
linkage, parking brake cable guides, underbody
contact points and linkage. If your vehicle is
An Emission Control Service.
N engine only)* -- Che& the torque of the
mounting bolts and/or nuts.
proper wear and maximum tire life, rotate your tires
following the instructions in this manual. See “Tires,
Inspection
& Rotation” in the Index, Check the tires
for uneven wear or damage. If you see irregular or
premature wear, check
the wheel alignment. Check
for damaged wheels also.
5. Engine Accessory Drive Belt@) Inspection --
Inspect the belt(s) for cracks, fraying, wear and
proper tension. Replace as needed.
6. Cooling System Service* -- Drain, flush and refill
the system with new or approved recycled coolant
conforming to GM Specification 1825M. Keep
coolant at the proper mixture as specified. See
“Coolant” in the Index. This provides proper freeze
protection, corrosion inhibitor level and engine operating temperature.
4. Tire and Wheel Rotation and Inspection -- For
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission war\
ranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of vehicle
useful life. General Motors, however, urges that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated i\
ntervals and the maintenance be recorded in “Section EMaintenance Record”.
274
INSPECTION
OR SERVICE
Steering,
Suspension and
Front-Wheel-
Drive Axle
Boot and Seal
Inspection
Exhaust System
Inspection
Throttle
Linkage Inspection
WHAT SHOULD BE DONE
hspect the front and rear suspension
and steering system for damaged,
loose or missing parts, signs of wear,
or lack of lubrication. Inspect the
power steering lines and hoses for
proper hookup, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Clean and then
inspect the drive axle boot seals for
damage, tears or leakage. Replace
seals
if necessary.
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body near the
exhaust system. Look for broken,
damaged, missing or out-of-position
parts as well as open seams, holes,
loose connections,
or other
conditions which could cause a heat
build-up in the floor pan or could let
exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See
“Engine Exhaust” in the Index.
Inspect the throttle linkage for interference or binding, and for
damaged or missing parts. Replace
parts as needed.
“:
INSPECTION
OR SERVICE
Brake System
Inspection
WHAT SHOULD BE DONE
Inspect the complete system. Inspect
brake
lines and hoses for proper
hookup, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing,
etc.
Inspect disc brake pads for wear
and rotors for swrface condition.
Also
inspect Qwn brake linings for wear and
cracks. Inspect other brake
parts
including drums, wheel cylinders,
calipers parking brake, etc. The parking
brake is self-adjusting and no manual adjustment
is required. You may need
to have your brakes inspected more often
if your driving habits or
conditions result in frequent braking.
NOTE: A low brake fluid level can
indicate worn disc brake pads which
may
need to be serviced. Also, if the
brake system warning light stays on or
comes on, something may
be wrong
with the brake system. See “Brake System
Warning Light” in the Index. If
your anti-lock brake system warning
light stays
on, comes on or flashes,
something may
be wrong with the
anti-lock brake system. See “Anti-Lock
Brake System Warning Light”
in the
Index.
280 .~ . ~