
Defensive Driving
The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive
defensively.
Please start with a very important safety device in your
Buick: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.)
Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.”
On city streets, rural roads, or freeways, it means
“always expect the unexpected.”
Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be
careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might
do. Be ready for their mistakes.
Expect children
to dash out from behind parked cars,
often followed by other children. Expect occupants in
parked cars
to open doors into traffic. Watch for
movement in parked cars
-- someone may be about to
open a door.
Expect other drivers to run stop signs when you are
on a
through street. Be ready
to brake if necessary as you go
through intersections. You may not have to use the
brake, but if you do, you will be ready.
If you’re driving through a shopping center parking lot
where there are well-marked lanes, directional arrows,
and designated parking areas, expect some drivers
to
ignore all these markings and dash straight toward one
part of the lot.
Pedestrians can be careless. Watch for them. In general,
you must give way to pedestrians even if you know you
have the right of way.
Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of
accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough
following distance. It’s the best defensive driving
maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never
know when the vehicle in front
of you is going to brake
or turn suddenly.
Here’s a final bit
of information about defensive driving.
The most dangerous time for driving in the
U.S. is very
early
on Sunday morning. In fact, GM Research studies
show that the most and the least dangerous times for
driving, every week, fall on the same day. That day is
Sunday. The most dangerous time is Sunday from
3 a.m.
to
4 a.m. The safest time is Sunday from 10 a.m. to 11
a.m. Driving the same distance on a Sunday at 3 a.m.
isn’t just
a little more dangerous than it is at 10 a.m. It’s
about 134 times more dangerous!
That leads to the next section.

the recommended 9 and 3 o'clock positions, you can
turn
it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing
either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and
just as quickly straighten the wheel once
you have
avoided the object. You must then be prepared to steer
back to your original lane and then brake to a controlled
stop.
Depending on your speed, this can be rather violent for
an unprepared driver. This is
one of the reasons driving
experts recommend that
you use your safety belts and
keep both hands on the steering wheel.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible
is a good reason to practice defensive driving at
all times.
165

Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you
ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P7’
(Park) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to
“P” (Park).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking
on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
0 Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, belts, cooling system, and brake adjustment.
Each of these is covered
in this manual, and the Index
will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these sections before you
start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are
tight.
194

c:
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location
.
of the damage.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at
the Tire-Loading Information label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had
a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec)
number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way,
your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed
to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread
design, the TPC number will be followed by a
“MS”
(for mud and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those not having a
TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size,
load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
TREAD WEAR INDICATORS
You need a new tire if:
you can see the indicators at three places around the
tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s
rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep
enough to show cord or fabric.
258

A CAUTION:
;
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control
while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes
or
types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle
may not handle properly, and you could have a
crash. Be sure to use the same size and type
tires
on all four wheels.
It’s all right to drive with your compact spare,
though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.
I I
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This
applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified government test course. For
example,
a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half
(1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded
100. The relative performance
of tires depends
upon the actual conditions
of their use, however, and
may depart significantly from the norm due to variations
in driving habits, service practices and differences in
road characteristics and climate.
Traction - A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B,
and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet
pavement as measured under controlled conditions
on
specified government test surfaces of asphalt and
concrete.
A tire marked C may have poor traction
performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire
is based
on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not
include cornering (turning) traction.
Temperature - A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under
controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the
material
of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and
excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade
C corresponds to a level of performance

Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
’ A CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it
may
severely weaken them. In a crash they might
not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean
safety
belts only with mitd soap and lukewarm
water.
Glass
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM
Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner
will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films.
Don’t
use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may
cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear
window, since they may have to be scraped
off later. If
abrasive cleaners are used
on the inside of the rear
window, an electric defogger element may be damaged.
Any temporary license should not be attached across the
defogger grid.
I
Cleaning the Outside of the
Windshield and Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield
washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax
or other material may be on
the blade or windshield.
Clean the outside of the windshield with
GM
Windshield Cleaner, Bon-Ami Powder@ (GM Part No.
105001 1). The windshield is clean if beads do not form
when you rinse it
with water.
Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth
soaked in
full strength windshield washer solvent. Then
rinse the blade with water.
Wiper blades should be checked on a regular basis and
replaced when worn.
Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth
of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep
it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold
water.
265
~ .

Capacities and Specifications
Engine Code L1 (L27)2 3.8L V-6 SF1
Belt Tensions -
Automatically controlled by a Self-Tension idler
pulley. Tension adjustment should never
be
necessary.
Cooling System Capacity -
Crankcase Capacity -
Air Conditioning Capacity4 -
With air conditioning: 13 quarts/l2.5 liters
4 quarts/4 liters
R134
- 2.0 lbs. (0.90 kilograms)
R12 - 2.42 lbs. ( 1.09 kilograms)
Fuel Tank Capacity -
18 gallons/68 liters
Transaxle -
Drain & Refill - 6 quarts/5.7 liters
Maintenance Item Part Numbers3 -
Air Filter - A1096C
Fuel Filter
- GF580
Oil Filter
- PF47
Radiator Cap - RC27
Spark Plug
- 41-600, GAP 0.060”
PCV Valve
- CV892C
1 8th Character of the Vehicle Identification Number.
2 Made in a GM plant in the United States.
3 Part numbers are AC type.
4 Air Conditioning Refrigerant: Not all air-conditioning refrigerants are the same. If the air conditioning system in your
vehicle needs refrigerant, be sure the proper refrigerant
is used. If you’re not sure ask your Buick dealer.

Scheduled Maintenance Services Schedule I
Follow Schedule I if your car is MAINLY driven under one .or more of the following conditions:
When most trips are less than 4 miles (6 kilometers).
When most trips are less than 10 miles (16 kilometers) and outside temperatures remain below freezing.
When most trips include extended idling and/or frequent low-speed operation as in stop-and-go traffic.
Towing a trailer.*?
When operating in dusty areas.
Schedule I should also be followed if the car is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial applications.
I I MILES (000) ~ ~ ~~
TO BE SERVICED
Miles (kilometers) or
Scheduled Mzintenance
48 45 42 39
36
33 30 27
24 21 18 15 12 9 6 3 WHEN TO PERFORM (See Explanation of
~ ~~ ~~
Services Following
Schedules I and
11)
Months, Whichever
Occurs First
Item No.
1. Engine Oil & Oil Filter Every 3 000 mi. (5000 km)
Change* or
3 months.
2. Chassis Lubrication Every
other oil change
3. Throttle Body Mounting At 6 000 mi. (10 000 km)
~~
Bolt Torque*
only
4* Tire & Inspection & then every 15 000 mi. (25 000 At 6 000 mi. ( 10 000 km) and
km)
or as necessary
Rotation
5. Engine
Accessory Drive
Every 30 000 mi.
Belt(s) Inspection* (50 000 km) or 24 months.
5 10
e.
e
e
e
20 25
e.
e
KILOMETERS (000)
30 35
me
e
e
40 45
em
e
50 55
me
e
e
282