1993 BUICK CENTURY trailer

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total capacity
weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes
the curb weight
of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry
in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle.
And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the
tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight
because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more
information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity. The trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 10% of
the total
loaded trailer weight
(B). After you’ve loaded your
trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately,
to see if the weights are proper.
If they aren’t, you may
be able to get them right simply by moving some items
around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for
cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on
the
Tire-Pressure Certification label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door (or see “Tire Loading” in the Index). Then be sure you don’t go over the
GVW limit for your
vehicle.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by,
and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules
to follow:
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the
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hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from your .exhaust can get into your vehicle
(see
“Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can,
too.
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-
type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch
that
does not attach to the bumper.
The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road
if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may
be provided by the hikh manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave
just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig. And,
never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Mer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll
be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer\
’s
brake system will use more than
0.02 cubic inch
(0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If
it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You
could even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa)
of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be
used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
fluid tap at the upper rear master cylinder port.
But
don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend
and finally break off. Use
steel brake tubing.
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get t\
o
know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the
feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving
is now a good deal longer and not nearly
so responsive as
your vehicle is by itself.
Before you
start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety
chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror
adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes,
start your vehicle
and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller \
by hand to be sure the brakes
are working. This lets you
check your electrical connection at the same time. During
your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the load is secure,
and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as fit, behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re
towing
a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer,
you’ll
need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left.
To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making nrns
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Mler
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a
different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you
signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re \
about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on
the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers
behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving on Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down,
you might have to use your brakes
so much that they
would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed
to around
45 mph (70 Mh) to reduce the possibility of
engine and transaxle overheating.
If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,OOO
pounds (450 kg) and you have an automatic transaxle
with Overdrive, you may prefer
to drive in “D” instead
of Overdrive.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig
could
start to move. People can be injured, and both your
vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how
to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P”
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. (Park) yet.
3. When the wheel chocks
are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then, apply your parking
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
brake, and then shift to
“P” (Park).
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation
are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, belt, cooling. system, and brake adjustment.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
‘will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a
good idea to review these sections before you
start your trip.
Check periodically
to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are
tight.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your-Engine:
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam,
the problem
may not be too serious. Sometimes the
engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with
no sign of steam, try
this for a minute or so:
1. Turn off your air conditioner.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed
and open the window as necessary.
3. Try to keep your engine under load (in a drive gear
where the engine runs slower). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine\

for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to
see if
the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning,
TURN OFF THE ENGRVE AND GET EVERYONE
OUT
OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down.
You may decide
not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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When to Change Engine Oil: See if any one of these is
true for you:
Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km).
It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than
10 miles (16 km).
The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in
door-to-door delivery,
or in stop-and-go traffic).
You tow a trailer often.
Most trips are through dusty places.
If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need
to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles
(5 O00 km) or 3 months-whichever comes first.
If none
of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles
(12 500 km) or 12 months-whichever comes first.
Change the fdter at the first oil change and at every other
oil change afier that.
Engine Block Heater: An engine block heater can be a
big help if you have to park outside
in very cold weather,
0°F (-18°C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see
“Engine Block Heater”
in the Index.
What to Do with Used Oil:
-
/i CAUTION:
Used engine oil contains things that have
caused skin cancer in laboratory animals.
Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very
long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and
water or a good hand cleaner. Wash or
properly throw away clothing or rags
containing used engine oil.
Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil
from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil
by pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams
or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it ‘by taking
it to a
place that collects used
oil. If you have a problem
properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a
service station or a local recycling center for help.
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Automatic ‘mansaxle Fluid
When to Check and Change:
A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level
is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the
Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your
fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the
Index.
How to Check:
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have
this done at a Buick dealership Service
Department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Wait at least
30 minutes before checking the transaxle
fluid level
if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic-especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is
180°F to 200” F (82” C to
93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it’s colder than 50” F (lO°C), you may have to
drive longer.
To check the fluid level:
Park your vehicle on a level place.
0 Place the shift lever in “P” (Park) with the parking
brake applied.
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the. shift lever
through each gear range, pausing for about three
seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in
“P” (Park).
Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.
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