1992 FORD SIERRA engine

8Connect the voltmeter between the battery
positive terminal and the terminal on the
starter motor. With the coil low tension lead
disconnected operate the starter for two or
three seconds. Battery voltage should be
indicated initially, then dropping to less than 1
volt. If the reading is more than 1 volt, there is
a high resistance in the wiring from the battery
to the starter and the check in paragraph 9
should be made. If the reading is less than 1
volt proceed to paragraph 10.
9Connect the voltmeter between the two
main solenoid terminals and operate the
starter for two or three seconds. Battery
voltage should be indicated initially, then
dropping to less than 0.5 volt. If the reading is
more than 0.5 volt, the ignition switch and
connections may be faulty.
10Connect the voltmeter between the
battery negative terminal and the starter
motor body, and operate the starter for two or
three seconds. A reading of less than 0.5 volt
should be recorded. If the reading is more
than 0.5 volt, there is a fault in the earth
circuit, and the earth connections to the
battery and body should be checked.
Bosch long frame and JF, and
Cajavec types
1With the starter motor removed from the
vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice
fitted with soft jaw protectors.
2Remove the two screws securing the
commutator end housing cap, then remove
the cap and rubber seal (see illustration).
3Wipe any grease from the armature shaft,
and remove the C-clip, or E-clip, as
applicable, and shims from the end of the
shaft (see illustrations).
4Unscrew the two nuts and remove the
washers, or remove the securing screws (as
applicable), then lift off the commutator end
housing (see illustrations).
5Carefully prise the thrust retaining springs
from their locations, then slide the brushes
from the brush plate.
6If the brushes have worn to less than the
specified minimum, renew them as a set. Torenew the brushes, cut the leads at their
midpoint and make a good soldered joint
when connecting the new brushes.
7The commutator face should be clean and
free from burnt spots. Where necessary
burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth.
8On starter motors where the commutator
end housing is secured by nuts and washers,
position the brush plate over the end of the
armature, with the cut-outs in the brush plate
aligned with the end housing securing studs.
9On starter motors where the commutator
end housing is secured by screws, position
the brush plate over the end of the armature
with the cut-outs in the brush plate aligned
with the loops in the field windings (see
illustration). The brush plate will be positively
located when the commutator end housing
screws are fitted.
10Position the brushes in their respective
locations in the brush plate, and fit the brush
retaining springs.
11Guide the commutator end housing into
position, at the same time sliding the rubber
insulator into the cut-out in the housing.
Secure the commutator end housing with the
nuts and washers or screws, as applicable.
12Fit sufficient shims to the end of the
armature shaft to eliminate endfloat when the
C-clip or E-clip, as applicable is fitted, then fit
the clip.
13Fit the armature shaft bearing seal to the
commutator end housing, then apply a little
lithium-based grease to the end of the
armature shaft and refit the end housing cap,
securing with the two screws.Bosch short frame, EV and EF
types
14To remove and refit the brush assembly,
proceed as for the Bosch long frame except
for the following(see illustration):
15Release the brush holders complete with
brushes by pushing the brush holders
towards the commutator and unclipping them
from the brush plate. Withdraw the brush
plate.
16To renew the brushes, the leads must be
unsoldered from the terminals on the brush
plate, and the leads of the new brushes must
be soldered to the terminals.
17To refit the brush assembly, position the
brush plate over the end of the armature shaft,
then assemble the brush holders, brushes and
springs, ensuring that the brush holder clips
are securely located. The brush plate will be
10Starter motor - brush renewal
Engine electrical systems 5•9
5
10.3b . . . and shims from the end of the
armature shaft - Bosch long frame starter
motor
10.9 Align the cut-outs in the brush plate
(B) with the loops in the field windings (A) -
Bosch long frame starter motor10.4b Commutator end housing removed
to expose brush plate - Bosch long frame
starter motor10.4a Remove the commutator end
housing securing screws - Bosch long
frame starter motor
10.3a Remove the C-clip . . .10.2 Remove the commutator end housing
cap securing screws - Bosch long frame
starter motor

positively located when the commutator end
housing screws are fitted.
Bosch DM and DW types
18The procedure is basically as described
previously for the Bosch short frame and EF
type starter motors, except that a commutator
end plate is fitted in place of the end housing
(see illustrations).
Lucas 5M90 type
Note: New star clips must be obtained for the
armature shaft on reassembly
19With the starter motor removed from the
vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice
fitted with soft jaw protectors.
20Remove the plastic cap from the end of
the armature shaft, then remove the star clip
from the end of the shaft, using a chisel at an
angle of 45º to the shaft to distort the prongsof the clip until it can be removed (see
illustrations).
21Unscrew the two securing nuts and
remove the connector cable from the main
feed terminal (see illustration).
22Extract the two commutator end plate
securing screws, and carefully tap the end
plate to free it. Lift the end plate clear to allow
access to the two field brushes. Disconnect
the two field brushes from the brush box to
allow complete removal of the commutator
end plate. Take care not to damage the
gasket as the end plate is removed.
23Remove the nut, washer and insulator
from the main terminal stud on the
commutator end plate, then push the stud
and the second insulator through the end
plate and unhook the brushes.
24To remove the brush box, drill out the
rivets securing the brush box to the end plate,
then remove the brush box and gasket.25If the brushes have worn to less than the
specified minimum, renew them as a set. To
renew the brushes, cut the leads at their
midpoint and make a good soldered joint
when connecting the new brushes.
26The commutator face should be clean and
free from burnt spots. Where necessary
burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth.
27Commence reassembly by positioning the
brush box gasket on the commutator end
plate, then position the brush box on the
gasket and rivet the brush box to the end
plate. Use a new gasket if necessary.
28Fit the main terminal stud and insulator to
the commutator end plate, then secure the
stud with the remaining insulator, washer and
nut. Fit the two brushes which are attached to
the terminal stud into their respective
locations in the brush box.
5•10Engine electrical systems
10.18a Bosch DM starter motor brush assembly
1 Yoke
2 Brush plate
3 Commutator end housing
4 Seal
5 Shim6 C-clip
7 Commutator end housing cap
8 Securing screw
9 Commutator end housing
securing screw
10.20a Remove the plastic cap from the end of the armature
shaft . . .
10.18b Bosch DW starter motor brush assembly
1 Commutator end plate securing
screw
2 Commutator end plate cap
3 C-clip4 Shim
5 Commutator end plate
6 Brush plate
7 Yoke
10.14 Bosch EV starter motor brush assembly
1 Commutator end housing cap
2 C-clip
3 Shims
4 Commutator end housing5 Brushes
6 Brush plate
7 Yoke
8 Commutator end housing screw

29Fit the two field brushes into their
locations in the brush box, then position the
commutator end plate on the yoke and fit the
two securing screws.
30Fit a new star clip to the end of the
armature shaft, ensuring that the clip is
pressed home firmly to eliminate any endfloat
in the armature (see illustration). Fit the
plastic cap over the end of the armature shaft.
Lucas 8M90 type
31The procedure is basically as described
previously for the 5M90 type starter motor
with the following difference(see illustration):
32The commutator end plate is secured by two
screws. The end plate and brush box are serviced
as an assembly and should be renewed.
Lucas M79 type
33With the starter motor removed from the
vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vicefitted with soft jaw protectors.
34Unscrew the securing nut and washer and
disconnect the wiring from the solenoid terminal.
35Remove the two screws securing the
commutator end housing cap. Remove the cap.
36Remove the C-clip and spacers from the
end of the armature shaft.
37Remove the two commutator end housing
securing screws and withdraw the end
housing.
38Separate the brush components (see
illustration).
39If the brushes have worn to less than the
specified minimum, renew them as a set. To
renew the brushes, cut the leads at their
midpoint and make a good soldered joint
when connecting the new brushes.
40The commutator face should be clean and
free from burnt spots. Where necessary
burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth.
Engine electrical systems 5•11
5
10.38 Lucas M79 starter motor brush plate components
A Brush plate
B Brush plate insulator
C Brush holders and springsD Brushs
E Insulators
F Brush link
10.31 Lucas 8M90 starter motor brush assembly
1 Plastic cap
2 Star clip
3 Commutator end plate screw
4 Commutator end plate
5 Brush box6 Yoke
7 Pole securing screw
8 Solenoid connector link
9 Pole shoe
10 Field coils
10.30 Use a soft faced hammer and socket
to fit a new star clip to the end of the
armature shaft - Lucas 5M90 starter motor
10.20b . . . followed by the star clip - Lucas 5M90 starter
motor
10.21 Lucas 5M90 starter
motor brush assembly
1 Main terminal nuts and
washers
2 Commutator end plate
3 Brush box
4 Brush spring
5 Brushes
6 Yoke
7 Armature
8 Thrustwasher
9 Commutator end plate
securing screw
10 Bush
11 Thrustplate
12 Star clip
13 Plastic cap

41Locate the brush box over the
commutator, position the brushes, then fit the
nylon cover over the brushes. Route the brush
wiring into the locating channel, then secure
the brushes in the channels with the locking
clips and springs.
42Refit the commutator end housing,
locating the rubber block in the cut-out in the
housing, then secure with the two screws.
43Refit the spacers and C-clip to the end of
the armature shaft, then fit the commutator end
housing cap and secure with the two screws.
44Reconnect the wiring to the solenoid
terminal and fit the washer and securing nut.
Nippondenso type
45With the starter motor removed from the
vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice
fitted with soft jaw protectors.
46Unscrew the retaining nut and washer and
disconnect the wiring from the terminal on the
solenoid.
47Remove the two screws securing the
commutator end housing cap and remove the
cap (see illustration).
48Remove the C-clip from the groove in the
armature shaft, and remove the spring.
49Unscrew the two bolts and washers, and
withdraw the commutator end housing.
50Withdraw the two field brushes from the
brush plate, then remove the brush plate.
51If the brushes have worn to less than the
specified minimum, renew them as a set. To
renew the brushes, cut the leads at their
midpoint and make a good soldered joint
when connecting the new brushes.
52The commutator face should be clean and
free from burnt spots. Where necessary
burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth. 53Position the brush plate over the end of
the armature, aligning the cut-outs in the
brush plate with the loops in the field
windings. The brush plate will be positively
located when the commutator end housing
bolts are fitted.
54Fit the brushes to their locations in the
brush plate, and retain with the springs.
55Fit the commutator end housing and
secure with the two bolts and washers.
56Fit the spring and the C-clip to the end of
the armature shaft, then smear the end of the
shaft with a little lithium-based grease, and
refit the commutator end housing cap,
securing with the two screws.
57Reconnect the wiring to the solenoid
terminal and fit the washer and retaining nut.
Note: The correct functioning of the spark plugs
is vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are
appropriate for the engine, and the suitable type
is specified at the beginning of this Chapter. If
this type is used and the engine is in good
condition, the spark plugs should not need
attention between scheduled replacement
intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary
and should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available as damage can easily be
caused to the firing ends.
Removal
1Where necessary, for improved access
remove the air cleaner and/or the inlet hose.
2If necessary, identify each HT lead for
position, so that the leads can be refitted to theircorrect cylinders, then disconnect the leads
from the plugs by pulling on the connectors, not
the leads. Note that the position of No 1 cylinder
HT lead in the distributor cap is marked with
either a pip, or a number “1 “.
3On 2.0 litre DOHC carburettor models, the
location of the spark plugs and the close
proximity of the carburettor makes spark plug
access difficult, particularly when removing
the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3. It is
suggested that a 3/8 inch ratchet drive spark
plug socket with rubber insert and long
extension bar is used, possibly in conjunction
with a universal joint adapter. It is also
advisable to disconnect No 3 cylinder HT lead
from the distributor first, to allow some slack
for disconnection at the spark plug.
4Clean the area around each spark plug
using a small brush, then using a plug
spanner (preferably with a rubber insert),
unscrew and remove the plugs. Cover the
spark plug holes with a clean rag to prevent
the ingress of any foreign matter.
Inspection
5The condition of the spark plugs will tell
much about the overall condition of the engine.
6If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean
and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of
a weak air/fuel mixture, or too hot a plug. (A hot
plug transfers heat away from the electrode
slowly - a cold plug transfers it away quickly).
7If the tip and insulator nose is covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
8If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
9The spark plug gap is of considerable
importance, as, if it is too large or too small,
the size of the spark and its efficiency will be
seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should
be set to the figure given in the Specifications
at the beginning of this Chapter. To set it,
measure the gap with a feeler blade, and then
bend open, or close the outer plug electrode
until the correct gap is achieved (see
illustrations). The centre electrode should
never be bent as this may crack the insulation
and cause plug failure, if nothing worse.
11Spark plugs and HT leads -
removal, inspection and
refitting
5•12Engine electrical systems
10.47 Nippondenso starter motor brush assembly
1 Yoke
2 Solenoid connecting link
3 Pole shoe
4 Rubber grommet
5 Brush
6 Brush spring
7 Brush plate8 Commutator end housing
9 Bush
10 Spring
11 C-clip
12 Commutator end housing cap
13 Commutator end housing securing
bolt
11.9a Measuring a spark plug gap using a
feeler blade

10The distributor cap (except on 1.6 and 1.8
litre CVH (R6A type) engines) and the HT
leads should be cleaned and checked at the
specified intervals. To test the HT leads,
remove them together with the distributor
cap, then connect an ohmmeter to the end of
each lead and its appropriate terminal within
the cap in turn (see illustration). If the
resistance of any lead is greater than the
maximum given in the Specifications, check
that the lead connection in the cap is good
before renewing the lead.
Refitting
11Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves are tight and
that the plug exterior surfaces are clean. As
the plugs incorporate taper seats also make
sure that the threads and seats are clean.
12On DOHC models before refitting thespark plugs, coat their threads with suitable
antiseize compound, taking care not to
contaminate the electrodes.
13Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
exceed the torque figure.
14Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, and where applicable refit the air
cleaner and/or inlet hose.Testing
All models except 1.6 and 1.8 litre
CVH (R6A type)
1The coil is located on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment and is retained by a
metal strap (see illustration). It is of high
output type and the HT tower should be kept
clean at all times to prevent possible arcing.
Bosch and Femsa coils are fitted with
protective plastic covers and Polmot coils are
fitted with an internal fusible link.
2To ensure that the correct HT polarity at the
spark plugs, the LT coil leads must always be
connected correctly. The black lead must
always be connected to the terminal marked +
115, and the green lead to the terminal
marked /1. Incorrect connections can cause
poor starting, misfiring, and short spark plug
life.
3To test the coil first disconnect the LT and
HT leads. Connect an ohmmeter betweenboth LT terminals and check that the primary
winding resistance is as given in the
Specifications. Connect the ohmmeter
between the HT terminal and either LT
terminal and check that the secondary
winding resistance is as given in the
Specifications. If either winding resistance is
not as specified, the coil should be renewed.
Reconnect the LT and HT leads on
completion.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH
models
4The coil fitted to these models is located
towards the front right-hand side of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
5Testing of the coil should be entrusted to a
Ford dealer or a suitable specialist.
Removal
All models except 1.6 and 1.8 litre
CVH (R6A type)
6Disconnect the battery negative lead,
7Disconnect the LT and HT leads from the
coil (see illustration).
8Remove the securing screw(s) and detach
the coil and strap assembly from the body
panel. Note that on models with the ESC
system, the coil strap is secured by the top
ESC module securing screw. On certain
models with the ESC II or EEC IV systems, an
“octane adjustment” service lead may be
connected to one of the coil securing screws.
On 2.0 litre DOHC fuel-injected models, the
coil/ignition module heat shield must be
removed for access to the coil securing bolts.
The heat shield is secured by two screws.
Note that on certain models, an earthing lead
12Coil - testing, removal and
refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•13
5
11.10 Method of testing an HT lead with an
ohmmeter
12.4 Ignition coil (A) and suppressor (B)
viewed from under vehicle (shroud removed)12.7 Disconnecting the HT lead from the
coil
12.1 Ignition coil - CVH model. Plastic
cover arrowed
11.9c Adjusting a spark plug gap using a
special tool11.9b Measuring a spark plug gap using a
wire gauge

and/or a suppressor may be secured by one
of the coil securing bolts (see illustrations).
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH
models
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Remove the two securing screws, and
withdraw the plastic ignition module shroud.
11Disconnect the ignition coil wiring plug
and, where fitted, the suppressor wiring plug,
pulling on the plugs, not on the wiring (see
illustrations).
12Release the securing lugs, and disconnect
the HT leads from the coil, noting their
locations to aid refitting.
13Remove the four Torx screws, and
withdraw the coil from the cylinder block.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that all leads are securely connected.
SOHC models
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Where applicable, unclip the screening can
from the top of the distributor and disconnect
the earth strap (see illustration).
3If necessary, identify each HT lead for
position, so that the leads can be refitted to
their correct cylinders, then disconnect the
leads from the spark plugs by pulling on the
connectors, not the leads. Similarly,
disconnect the HT lead from the coil. Where
applicable, slide the HT lead holder from the
clip on the camshaft cover (see illustration).
Lucas distributors
4Remove the two securing screws and lift off
the distributor cap.
5The rotor arm is a push-fit on the end of the
distributor shaft.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting that
the rotor arm can only be fitted in one
position. Ensure that the HT leads are
correctly connected.
Bosch distributors
7Prise away the spring clips with a
screwdriver and lift off the distributor cap(see
illustration).On fuel injection models,
disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the air inlet hose, then disconnect the air
inlet hose from the inlet manifold and the
airflow meter for improved access. 8Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting that
the rotor arm can only be fitted in one position.
Ensure that the HT leads are correctly
connected, and on fuel injection models
ensure that the air inlet hose clips are correctly
aligned (refer to illustration, Section 15,
Chapter 4, PartB).
Motorcraft distributors
9For improved access, disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet
hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from
the inlet manifold and the airflow meter for
improved access.
10Remove the two securing screws and lift
off the distributor cap (see illustration).
11Remove the two securing screws and
withdraw the rotor arm (disc) (see
illustration). Note that on some vehicles, the
rotor arm tip may be coated with silicone
grease to assist radio interference
suppression. Do not attempt to clean the
grease off if it is present. If radio interference
13Distributor cap and rotor arm
(OHC models) - removal and
refitting
5•14Engine electrical systems
12.8a Ignition coil viewed with heat shield
removed12.11a Disconnecting the coil wiring plug . . .
13.10 Removing a distributor cap securing
screw - Motorcraft distributor13.7 Securing distributor cap with spring
clip - Bosch distributor13.3 HT lead holder on camshaft cover
13.2 Unclipping the distributor screening
can - Motorcraft distributor
12.11b . . . and the suppressor wiring plug
12.8b Suppressor secured by one of the
coil securing bolts

problems are experienced, consult a Ford
dealer or an in-car entertainment specialist.
12Proceed as described in paragraph 6, but
additionally ensure that the air inlet hose clips
are correctly aligned (refer to illustration,
Section 15, Chapter 4, PartB).
DOHC models
13Disconnect the battery negative lead.
14Unclip the lower section of the distributor
shield from the upper section, then unscrew
the two securing nuts, and withdraw the
upper section of the shield from the studs on
the upper timing chain cover (see
illustrations).
15If necessary, identify each HT lead for
position, so that the leads can be refitted to
their correct cylinders, then disconnect the
leads from the spark plugs by pulling on theconnectors, not the leads. Similarly,
disconnect the HT lead from the coil, and
release it from the clip on the timing chain
cover.
16Using a suitable Torx key or socket,
unscrew the two distributor cap securing
screws, then lift off the cap.
17The rotor arm is a push-fit on the end of
the rotor shaft (see illustration).
18If desired, the rotor housing can be pulled
from the timing chain cover.
19Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the
rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are
fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the
rotor arm will only fit in one position.
1The distributor fitted to the CVH engine is
unlike any conventional distributor, in that it
has no main body and no adjustments are
possible. The distributor is used purely to
distribute HT voltage to the spark plugs. To
remove the distributor components, proceed
as follows.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Distributor cap
3Pull the two halves of the distributor cap
shroud apart and remove the shroud.
Disconnect the earth strap from the tag on the
timing cover (see illustration).4If necessary, identify each HT lead for
position, so that the leads can be refitted to
their correct cylinders, then disconnect the
leads from the spark plugs by pulling on the
connectors, not the leads. Unclip the HT lead
holders from their studs on the camshaft
cover (see illustration).
5Depress the two securing screws and turn
them anti-clockwise through 90º, then lift off
the distributor cap.
6Disconnect the HT lead from the coil by
pulling on the connector not the lead, and
remove the distributor cap.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the HT leads are fitted to their correct
cylinders.
Rotor arm and housing
8With the distributor cap removed as
described previously, compress the two lugs
on the rotor shaft and withdraw the rotor arm
(see illustration).
9The rotor housing can now be removed by
pulling it from the timing cover (see
illustration).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the rotor arm can only be fitted in one
position.
Rotor shaft
11The rotor shaft is retained by the camshaft
sprocket bolt.
12To remove and refit the rotor shaft, first
remove the timing cover and the camshaft
14Distributor components (CVH
models) - removal and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•15
5
13.14b . . . and the upper section of the
distributor shield
14.8 Removing the rotor arm14.4 HT lead holders (arrowed) on
camshaft cover14.3 Distributor cap shroud earth strap
connection
13.17 Removing the distributor cap and
rotor arm
13.14a Unclipping the lower section . . .13.11 Removing a rotor arm (disc) securing
screw - Motorcraft distributor

sprocket bolt. Note that there is no need to
remove the timing belt or the sprockets.
Note: During production the engine ignition
timing is accurately set using a microwave
process, and sealant is applied to the
distributor clamp bolt. Removal of the
distributor should be avoided except where
excessive bearing wear has occurred due to
high mileage or during major engine overhaul.
A timing light will be required to check the
ignition timing after refitting the distributor.
All models except early
“Economy”
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2If necessary, identify each HT lead for
position, so that the leads can be refitted to
their correct cylinders, then disconnect the
leads from the spark plugs by pulling on the
connectors, not the leads.
3Where applicable, unclip the screening can
from the top of the distributor and disconnect
the earth strap. On fuel injection models,
disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the air inlet hose, then disconnect the air
inlet hose from the inlet manifold and the
airflow meter for improved access.4Prise away the spring clips with a
screwdriver, or remove the two securing
screws, as applicable, and lift off the
distributor cap.
5Disconnect the HT lead from the coil by
pulling on the connector, not the lead, then
slide the HT lead holder from the clip on the
camshaft cover, and withdraw the distributor
cap.
6Where applicable, disconnect the vacuum
pipe from the vacuum advance unit on the
side of the distributor (see illustration).
7Using a suitable socket or spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft to
bring No 1 cylinder to the firing point. If the
distributor cap is secured by clips, make sure
that the clips stay clear of the distributormoving parts. No 1 cylinder is at the firing
point when:
a)The relevant timing marks are in
alignment.
b)The tip of the rotor arm is pointing to the
position occupied by the No 1 cylinder HT
lead terminal in the distributor cap. Note
that the position of No 1 HT lead terminal
is identified by a pip or a number “1”
c)On Lucas distributors, the cut-out in the
trigger vane is aligned with the sensor
(see illustration)
d)On Bosch distributors, the tip of the rotor
arm is aligned with the scribed line on the
distributor body (where applicable,
remove rotor arm and dust cover, then
refit rotor arm to check alignment with
scribed line) (see illustration)
e)On Motorcraft distributors, the tip of the
rotor arm is aligned with a notch in the
distributor body. Mark the relevant notch
(there may be several) for reference when
refitting. Also, the leading edge of one of
the trigger vane segments is aligned with
the rib on the sensor (remove the two
securing screws and lift off the rotor arm
to view the trigger vane and sensor) (see
illustration).
8Disconnect the distributor wiring plug,
where applicable depressing the locking
tab(s). Pull on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).
9Make alignment marks between the
distributor body and the cylinder block.
10Scrape the sealant from the distributor
clamp bolt, then unscrew and remove the bolt
and clamp (see illustration).
11Withdraw the distributor from the cylinder
block. As the distributor is removed, the rotor
arm will turn clockwise due to the skew gear
drive. Note the new position of the rotor arm
relative to the distributor body, if necessary
making an alignment mark (some distributors
already have an alignment mark).
12Check the distributor spindle for
excessive side-to-side movement. If evident,
the distributor must be renewed, as the only
spares available are the cap, rotor arm,
module (where applicable), and driveshaft
O-ring (see illustration).
15Distributor (OHC models) -
removal and refitting
5•16Engine electrical systems
14.9 Removing the rotor housing
15.7a Lucas distributor showing trigger
vane position No 1 cylinder at firing point
A Trigger vane cut
-outB Sensor
15.8 Disconnecting distributor wiring plug
- Bosch distributor15.7c Trigger vane segment leading edge
aligned with sensor rib - Motorcraft
distributor15.7b Rotor arm tip aligned with scribed
line on distributor body - Bosch distributor
15.6 Disconnecting vacuum pipe from
vacuum advance unit - Bosch distributor