1992 FORD SIERRA check engine

Note that the required distributor body
movement will be half of the required
crankshaft movement (ie an adjustment of 5º
in ignition timing will require the distributor
body to be turned 2º. Tighten the clamp bolt
and re-check the timing.
6On models with inductive discharge ignition
systems, the mechanical and vacuum
advance mechanisms can be checked as
follows. On all other models, proceed to
paragraph 10.
7With the engine idling, timing light
connected, and vacuum pipe disconnected as
described in the preceding paragraphs,
increase the engine speed to approximately
2000 rpm (if desired, connect a tachometer to
the engine in accordance with the
manufacturer”s instructions). Note the
approximate distance which the relevant pulley
mark moves out of alignment with the pointer.
8Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the
distributor or electronic module, as
applicable, and repeat the procedure given in
the previous paragraph, when for the same
increase in engine speed, the alignment
differential between the pulley mark and
pointer should be greater than previously
observed.
9If the pulley mark does not appear to move
during the first part of the check, a fault in the
distributor mechanical advance mechanism is
indicated. No increased movement of the
mark during the second part of the check
indicates a punctured diaphragm in the
distributor vacuum unit, or a leak in the
vacuum line.
10On completion of the adjustments and
checks, stop the engine and disconnect the
timing light. Where applicable, reconnect the
vacuum pipe, if not already done, and
reconnect any “octane adjustment” and “idle
speed adjustment” wires. Make a final check
to ensure that the distributor clamp bolt is
tight.
11Finally, the idle speed and mixture should
be checked and adjusted.2.0 litre DOHC carburettor model
12The ignition timing is controlled by the
ESC II module, and no adjustment is possible.
2.0 litre DOHC fuel injection
model
13The ignition timing is controlled by the
EEC IV module, and no adjustment is
possible.
Note: Refer to the Specifications Section at
the beginning of this Chapter for ignition
timing values for use with unleaded petrol.
1To run an engine on unleaded petrol,
certain criteria must be met, and it may be
helpful to first describe the various terms used
for the different types of petrol:
Normal leaded petrol (4-star, 97 RON):
Petrol which has a low amount of lead added
during manufacture (0.15 g/litre), in addition to
the natural lead found in crude oil.
Unleaded petrol (Premium, 95 RON):
Has no lead added during manufacture, but
still has the natural lead content of crude oil.
Lead free petrol: Contains no lead. It has
no lead added during manufacture, and the
natural lead content is refined out. This
type of petrol is not currently available for
general use in the UK and should not be
confused with unleaded petrol.
2To run an engine continuously on unleaded
petrol, suitable hardened valve seat inserts
must be fitted to the cylinder head.
3The OHC engines fitted to the Sierra/P100
range which have suitable valve seat inserts
fitted at manufacture can be identified by
letters stamped on the cylinder head next to
No 4 spark plug as follows:
1.6 litre enginesM, MM, N, or NN
1.6 litre enginesS or SS
2.0 litre enginesL, P, PP, R, or RR4All CVH engines have suitable valve seat
inserts fitted.
5Vehicles which have no identification letter
stamped on the cylinder head, and are not
fitted with suitable valve seat inserts, may still
be run on unleaded petrol (although
continuous use is not recommended),
provided that every fourth tank filling is of
normal leaded petrol, ie: three tanks of
unleaded petrol followed by one tank of
normal leaded petrol.
6When running an OHC engine on unleaded
petrol (Premium, 95 RON), the ignition timing
must be retarded as described in the
following sub-Sections. There is no
requirement for ignition timing adjustment
when running CVH engines on unleaded
petrol.
Inductive discharge ignition
system and ESC system
7On vehicles fitted with an inductive
discharge ignition system, or the ESC system,
the ignition timing should be retarded as
specified.
ESC II and EEC IV systems
8On vehicles fitted with the ESC II or EEC IV
systems, there is a facility for retarding the
ignition timing without physically disturbing
the distributor.
9Adjustment is made by earthing one or two
wires (“octane adjustment” wires) which
terminate in a wiring plug next to the ignition
coil. Ideally a service adjustment lead,
available from a Ford dealer should be used
(see illustration). One end of the lead plugs
into the “octane adjustment” wiring plug, and
the other end should be earthed by fixing to
one of the ignition coil securing screws.
10Cut and insulate the wires in the service
lead which are not to be earthed.
17Ignition timing -adjustmentfor
usewithunleadedpetrol
5•18Engine electrical systems
17.9 Service adjustment lead and plug -
ESC II and EEC IV systems
A Red, blue and yellow wires
B Plug
C Wire cutting point
16.2b Crankshaft pulley timing marks - SOHC engine
A Cast pulleyB Pressed steel pulley

11The amount of ignition retardation
provided by earthing the wire(s) is as shown in
the table above.
12Once the ignition timing has been
retarded, the vehicle can be operated on
either leaded or unleaded petrol.
13On 2.0 litre models, if the yellow wire (“idle
speed adjustment” wire) in the service lead is
earthed, the idle speed will be raised by 75
rpm. If the vehicle already has a single yellow
fly lead connected prior to connecting the
service lead, ensure that the yellow wire in the
service lead is earthed.
14Note that some early models have
coloured “Lucar” connectors fitted in place of
the “octane adjustment” wiring plug (see
illustration). The principle for ignition timing
adjustment on these vehicles is as described
previously for vehicles with the “octane
adjustment” wiring plug.15On completion of ignition timing
adjustment, the idle speed and mixture should
be checked and adjusted as necessary.
Note: Refer to Section 1 for precautions to be
observed when working with electronic
modules.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
All ESC modules except ESC
(early “Economy” models)
2All modules except the ESC Hybrid module
are mounted on the left-hand side of the
engine compartment(see illustration).The
ESC Hybrid module is mounted on the
right-hand side of the engine compartment.
3Disconnect the module wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring. On ESC IImodules, except those fitted to 1.8 litre
models from February 1987, a locking tab at
the lower end of the wiring plug must be
depressed before unhooking the upper end of
the plug from the module. On ESC II modules
fitted to 1.8 litre models from February 1987
(see illustration)and ESC Hybrid modules,
the wiring plug is secured by a screw which is
integral with the plug (see illustrations).
4Where applicable, disconnect the vacuum
pipe from the module (see illustration).
5Remove the two or three securing screws,
as applicable, and withdraw the module from
the engine compartment. Note that the top
securing screw of the ESC module also
secures the ignition coil strap.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the underside of the module and the
corresponding area of the body panel are clean.
ESC module (early “Economy”
models)
7Remove the module complete with its
securing bracket, as described above.
8Fit the new module, slightly behind the old
module position, on the flat vertical surface of
the body panel, and secure with the two
screws supplied. Note that the module must
be mounted against the flat area of the body
panel to prevent distortion of the module, and
to ensure good heat transfer from the module
to the body.
9Reconnect the module vacuum pipe.
10Connect the adapter loom supplied with
the new module between the module and the
old module’s wiring plug.
11Where applicable, refit the coil to its
original location.
18Electronic modules - removal
and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•19
5
18.4 Disconnecting ESC II module vacuum
pipe18.3c Disconnecting ESC Hybrid module
wiring plug18.3b Disconnecting ESC II module wiring
plug
18.2 ESC module securing screws (arrowed)
A Wiring plug B Vacuum pipe18.3a ESC II module - 1.8 litre models from
February 1987
SystemDegrees of retardation
Blue wireRed wireBlue and red
wires
ESC II (except 1.8 litre)
models from February1987246
ESC II (1.8 litre models from
February 1987)426
EEC IV42617.14 Lucar type “octane
adjustment” connectors -
early models with ESC II
and EEC IV systems
A Red, blue and yellow connectors
B Coil securing screw (earthing point)

3Partially drain the cooling system. There is no
need to remove the cylinder block drain plug.
4Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold
and remove it.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fill the
cooling system.
2.0 litre DOHC models
7The sensor is located in the side of the inlet
manifold. The removal and refitting
procedures are as described for the 1.6 and
1.8 litre CVH (R6A type) engines in the
relevent Section of this Chapter.
Inlet manifold heater
Note: When refitting the heater, a new gasket
and O-ring must be used.
8Do not attempt to remove the heater while it
is hot.
9For improved access, remove the air
cleaner.
10Disconnect the wiring from the heater.
11Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the heater. Recover the gasket and
O-ring (see illustration).
12Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new gasket and O-ring, but be careful to
tighten the securing bolts evenly, otherwise
the heater may tilt and jam in its recess.
Carburettor stepper motor (2.0
litre models)
Note: Irregular idle is not necessarily caused by
a faulty or badly adjusted stepper motor. Good
electrical contact between the stepper motor
plunger and the adjusting screw (which from the
throttle position switch) is essential. Before
attempting adjustment or renewal of the motor,
try the effect of cleaning the plunger and
adjusting screw contact faces with abrasive
paper followed by switch cleaning fluid. Switch
cleaning fluid is available from electronic
component shops. Refer to the precautions in
Chapter 3 before proceeding.
13Remove the air cleaner.
14Depress the locking tab and disconnect
the stepper motor wiring plug. Pull on the
plug, not the wiring.
15Remove the four securing screws and
withdraw the stepper motor and bracket from
the carburettor.
16If desired, the stepper motor can be
separated from the bracket by removing thefour securing screws (see illustration).
17Commence refitting by securing the
stepper motor to the bracket, where
applicable.
18Refit the stepper motor and bracket to the
carburettor and secure with the four screws.
19Reconnect the wiring plug.
20Reconnect the air cleaner vacuum hose to
the inlet manifold, and position the air cleaner
to one side to allow access to the carburettor
and stepper motor.
21Reconnect the battery negative lead.
22Connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions.
23Start the engine, then check and if
necessary adjust the idle mixture.
24Ensure that all electrical loads are
switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc). If
the “idle speed adjustment” wire is earthed,
temporarily isolate it. Where applicable,
ensure that the automatic transmission gear
selector lever is in the “N” or “P” position.
25Accelerate the engine to a speed greater
than 2500 rpm, allow it to return to idle, then
repeat. Insert a feeler blade of 1.0 mm (0.04
in) thickness between the stepper motor
plunger and the adjusting screw (see
illustration). With the feeler blade in place the
engine speed should be 875 ±25 rpm.
26If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof cap from the adjusting screw
locknut. Slacken the locknut, then turn the
adjusting screw to achieve the correct enginespeed and tighten the locknut.
27Repeat the procedure given in paragraph
24 and check that the engine speed is still
correct. Readjust if necessary.
28Stop the engine, remove the feeler blade,
and disconnect the tachometer.
29Refit the air cleaner, ensuring that the
vacuum hose is securely connected. If the
“idle speed adjustment” wire was previously
earthed, reconnect it.
30Re-start and then stop the engine,
observing the movement of the stepper motor
plunger. Immediately after stopping the
engine, the plunger should move to the
“anti-dieselling” position, and after a few
seconds it should extend to the “vent
manifold/start” position (see illustration).
31Re-check and adjust the idle mixture.
32If necessary, refit the tamperproof caps to
the mixture adjustment screw and the stepper
motor adjustment screw locknut.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
(2.0 litre DOHC models)
33The sensor is located at the right-hand
rear of the cylinder block behind the oil filter.
34Disconnect the battery negative lead.
35Access is most easily obtained from
underneath the vehicle. To improve access,
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
36Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
37Remove the securing screw, and
withdraw the sensor from its location in the
cylinder block (see illustration).
Engine electrical systems 5•21
5
19.25 Carburettor stepper motor adjustment
- 2.0 litre models with ESC II system
A LocknutB Feeler blade
19.37 Removing the crankshaft
speed/position sensor (engine removed)
19.30 Carburettor stepper motor plunger
positions - 2.0 litre models with ESC II
system
A Vent manifold/start
B Anti-dieselling
C Normal idle
19.16 Carburettor stepper motor adjustment
- 2.0 litre models with ESC II system19.11 Removing inlet manifold heater -
ESC II system

38Before refitting the sensor, examine the
O-ring, and renew it if damaged or worn.
39Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the torque setting for the sensor screw.
Note: Procedures for removal and refitting of
the ignition system components and
electronic module are given elsewhere in the
relevant Sections of this Chapter.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
2The sensor is mounted in a bracket on the
timing cover.
3Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).
4Slacken the sensor clamping screw and
slide the sensor from its bracket.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but the
clearance between the sensor and the
toothed wheel on the crankshaft must be set
at 1.0 mm (0.04 in). This can be achieved by
inserting a suitable length of wire or rod with a
diameter of 1.0 mm (0.04 in) between the
sensor and the toothed wheel (see
illustration). Do not overtighten the clamping
screw, as damage to the sensor may result.
Engine coolant temperature
sensor
6The sensor is located in the side of the inlet
manifold(see illustration).
7Partially drain the cooling system.
8Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring.
9Unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold
and remove it.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fill the
cooling system.
Air charge temperature sensor
11The sensor is located in the base of the air
cleaner.
12Remove the air cleaner.
13Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).14Unscrew the sensor from the air cleaner
using a suitable spanner.
15Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit the
air cleaner. Ensure that the vacuum hose is
securely connected.
Electric choke heater
16The electric choke heater is an integral
part of the automatic choke housing on the
carburettor. Removal and refitting of the
choke housing is covered in Chapter 4.
17The operation of the electric choke heater
relay can be checked by starting the engine
from cold, and placing a finger on the relay
(see illustration). It should be possible to feel
the relay switching on and off. If this is not the
case, renew the relay.
Throttle damper control solenoid
18The solenoid is on the right-hand side of
the engine compartment (see illustration). 19Disconnect the solenoid wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring.
20Disconnect the two vacuum pipes from
the solenoid, noting their locations for use
when refitting.
21Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the solenoid from the body panel.
22Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the locating lug on the solenoid bracket
should engage with the body panel, and make
sure that the vacuum pipes are correctly
connected.
Throttle damper
23Remove the air cleaner.
24Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
throttle damper.
20ESC Hybrid system
components - removal and
refitting
5•22Engine electrical systems
20.3 Disconnecting crankshaft
speed/position sensor wiring plug - ESC
Hybrid system
20.6 Engine coolant temperature sensor
location - ESC Hybrid system
20.25 Throttle damper assembly - ESC
Hybrid system
A Securing screws
B Adjusting screwC Throttle lever20.18 Throttle damper control solenoid -
ESC Hybrid system20.17 Electric choke heater relay location
(arrowed) in main fusebox - ESC Hybrid
system
20.13 Disconnecting air charge
temperature sensor wiring plug - ESC
Hybrid system
20.5 Setting the gap between the crankshaft
speed/position sensor and the crankshaft
toothed wheel - ESC Hybrid system

25Remove the two securing screws and
detach the throttle damper and bracket
assembly from the carburettor (see
illustration).
26Commence refitting by securing the
throttle damper and bracket assembly to the
carburettor with the two screws. Ensure that
the throttle lever is correctly positioned in the
slot in the throttle damper actuating arm.
27Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the throttle
damper.
28Reconnect the air cleaner vacuum hose to
the inlet manifold, and reconnect the air
change temperature sensor wiring plug, then
place the air cleaner to one side to allow
access to the throttle damper.
29Reconnect the battery negative lead.
30Connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions.
31Start the engine, then check and if
necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture.
32Earth the “service adjustment” lead,
located in the battery negative wiring loom
(see illustration), for a minimum of 10
seconds. The throttle damper actuating arm
should move to the fully retracted position,
raising the engine speed.
33The engine speed should stabilise at 1700
±100 rpm. If adjustment is necessary, turn
the adjusting screw on the end of the throttle
damper actuating arm to give the correct
speed. Turn the screw clockwise to increase
the engine speed, or anti-clockwise to reduce
the engine speed.34On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer.
35Where necessary, ensure that any
tamperproof seals are refitted, then refit the
air cleaner, ensuring that the vacuum hose is
securely connected. Isolate the “service
adjustment” lead.
36Start the engine and check that normal
idle speed is resumed, then stop the engine.
Note:Procedures for removal and refitting of
the ignition system components and
electronic module are given elsewhere in the
relevant Sections of this Chapter.
Engine coolant temperature
sensor
2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection models
1For details of engine coolant temperature
sensor removal and refitting, refer to the
Section appertaining to the ESC II system.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH models
2The sensor is located in the side of the inlet
manifold.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Partially drain the cooling system.
5Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).
6Unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold
and remove it.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refill the
cooling system.
2.0 litre DOHC fuel injection models
8The sensor is located in the side of the inlet
manifold, behind the throttle body. The
removal and refitting procedure is as
described for the 1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
CVH models above.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH
models
1.6 litre
9The sensor is located at the left-hand rear
of the cylinder block, above the starter motor
(see illustration).10Disconnect the battery negative lead.
11Remove the securing screw, and
withdraw the sensor shroud.
12Disconnect the sensor wiring plug.
13Remove the Torx securing screw, and
withdraw the sensor.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal.
1.8 litre
15Proceed as described for the ESC Hybrid
module. If a new sensor (not the original unit)
is being fitted, position it in the mounting
bracket so that it is in actual contact with one
of the teeth of the toothed wheel on the
crankshaft. Hold the sensor in this position,
and tighten the clamping screw. New sensors
have projections on their base, which will
wear away when the engine is cranking, and
automatically set the specified clearance.
2.0 litre DOHC fuel injection models
16This procedure is as described for the 2.0
litre DOHC carburettor models (ESC II
module).
Air charge temperature sensor
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH
models
17The sensor is located in the side of the
CFI unit on 1.6 litre engines (see illustration),
and on the inlet manifold on 1.8 litre engines.
18Disconnect the battery negative lead.
19Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring.
20Unscrew the sensor from its location, and
remove it.
21Refitting is a reversal of removal, but coat
the threads of the sensor with suitable sealant
before fitting.
2.0 litre DOHC fuel injection models
22The sensor is located in the upper section
of the inlet manifold.
23Disconnect the battery negative lead.
24Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by
pulling on the plug, not the wiring (see
illustration).
25Unscrew the sensor from the inlet
manifold, and remove it.
26Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the torque setting for the sensor.
21EEC IV system components -
removaland refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•23
5
21.9 Crankshaft speed/position sensor
(arrowed) viewed from front of engine with
shroud removed21.17 Air charge temperature sensor
location on 1.6 litre engines (arrowed)
21.5 Disconnecting the engine coolant
temperature sensor wiring plug20.32 Service adjustment lead location
(arrowed) - ESC Hybrid system