1992 FORD SIERRA engine

5Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug from
the pump cover, recover the washer, and
withdraw the spring and plunger (see
illustrations).
Inspection
6Thoroughly clean all components in petrol or
paraffin, and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
7Examine the rotors and the pump casing for
signs of excessive wear on the machined
surfaces. If wear is evident, the complete
pump assembly must be renewed, as spare
parts are not available individually.
Reassembly
8Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and the
spring, and screw the plug into place,
ensuring that the washer is in place under the
plug.
9Lubricate the rotors, and fit them to the
pump casing with the punch marks facing the
pump cover (see illustration).
10Refit the pump cover and tighten the
securing bolts.
11Prime the pump before refitting.
1Examine all the teeth on the sprockets. If
the teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew
the sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner for wear, and
renew it if necessary.3Examine the chain for wear. If it has been in
operation for a considerable time, or if when
held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a
deeply-bowed appearance, renew it.
Note: New connecting rod bolts and a new oil
pick-up pipe gasket must be used on refitting.
Removal
1Remove the sump and the cylinder head.
2Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
Recover the gasket.
3Unscrew the four securing nuts, and
withdraw the oil baffle from the studs on the
main bearing caps (see illustration).
4Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
Section 32, paragraphs 2 to 5.
Refitting
5Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
Section 32, paragraphs 6 to 13, noting the
following points:
6Take note of the orientation of the bearing
shells during dismantling, and ensure that
they are fitted correctly during reassembly.
7When fitting the pistons, ensure that the
arrow on the piston crown and the letter “F”
on the face of the connecting rod are pointing
towards the front of the engine.
8Use new connecting rod bolts on
reassembly, and before fitting, oil the threads
and the contact faces of the bolts. Tighten thebolts in the three stages given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter.
9Refit the oil baffle, and tighten the securing
nuts.
10Clean the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the oil pick-up pipe, and refit the
pick-up pipe using a new gasket.
11Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
Note: A new crankshaft rear oil seal and a new
rear oil seal housing gasket should be used on
refitting.
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing chain and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel/driveplate.
2Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
and remove it from the rear of the cylinder
block. Recover the gasket.
4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the sump mounting plate from the
front of the cylinder block (see illustration).
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks, and if necessary, use a
centre-punch to identify them (see
illustration).
30Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting
29Pistons and connecting rods
- removal and refitting
28Oil pump drive chain and
sprockets - examination and
renovation
DOHC engine 2B•17
2B
27.5b . . . and withdraw the spring and
plunger
30.4 Unscrewing a sump mounting plate
securing bolt29.3 Withdrawing the oil baffle29.2 Removing the oil pick-up pipe
27.9 The punch marks (arrowed) on the oil
pump rotors must face the pump cover27.5a Unscrew the pressure relief valve
plug and washer . . .

6Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and one of the thrustwashers
(the thrustwashers are fitted to the crankcase,
not the bearing cap). This will indicate whether
or not new thrustwashers are required.
7Unscrew the bolts, and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
8Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block,
and remove the rear oil seal if it is still in place
on the crankshaft.
9Extract the bearing shells, and recover the
thrustwashers, keeping them identified for
location.
Refitting
10Commence refitting as follows(see
illustration).
11Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
12If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
locations in the crankcase.
13Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main
bearing location, using a little grease to retain
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing
the crankshaft webs). Note that where
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in
production, the centre main bearing is
unmarked. If oversize (0.38 mm)
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark.
14Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the
crankshaft into the crankcase.
15Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit the main bearing
caps in their correct locations, with the arrows
on the caps pointing to the front of the engine.16Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and 5.
17Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
18Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
19Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
20Refit the sump mounting plate to the front
of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
21Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
the rear edge of the crankshaft, to protect the
oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
22Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
23Ideally, the new oil seal should be
installed using a tool similar to that used for
fitting the crankshaft rear oil seal. A suitable
tool can be improvised using a metal tube of
suitable diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and
two flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position
using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine.
24With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
25Refit the pistons and connecting rods.
26Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.1Proceed as described in Chapter 2, PartA,
noting the following.
2Production bearing undersizes are
indicated as follows:
Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft -
standard-diameter main bearing journals.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize.
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
bearing journals 25 mm undersize.
1Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, but note that
when the engine is first started, a metallic
tapping noise may be heard. This is due to the
timing chain tensioner plunger assembly
taking time to pressurise with oil, resulting in a
temporarily slack chain. The noise should
stop after a short time, once oil pressure has
built up.
32Initial start-up after overhaul or
major repair
31Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2B•18DOHC engine
30.5 Main bearing cap identification mark
(arrowed)
30.10 Crankshaft main bearings and associated components
1 Bearing cap
2 Thrustwasher
3 Stud for oil baffle4 Identification markings
5 Bearing shell without oil
groove6 Bearing shell with oil
groove
7 Bearing seat in cylinder
block