1992 FORD SIERRA engine

firmly in place in the transmission housing,
otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid
spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Reverse the procedure described in
Section 8, noting the following points.
2Before attempting to refit the engine, check
that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This
is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input
shaft splines will pass through the splines in
the centre of the friction disc.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
5Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
6Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
7Fill the cooling system.
8Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator drivebelt.
9Adjust the throttle cable.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
10Reverse the procedure described in
Section 8, noting the points made above.
1Reverse the procedure described in
Section 9, noting the following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4As the engine is installed, guide the torque
converter studs through the holes in the
driveplate. When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
5Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil. 7Fill the cooling system.
8Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator drivebelt.
9Adjust the throttle cable.
10If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
10, noting the following points.
2Before attempting to reconnect the engine
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
disc is centralised. This is necessary to ensure
that the gearbox input shaft splines will pass
through the splines in the centre of the friction
disc.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
5Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
6Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
7Fill the cooling system.
8Check and if necessary top-up the gearbox
oil level.
9Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator drivebelt.
10Adjust the throttle cable.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
11Reverse the procedure described in
Section 10, noting the points made above.
Ensure that the vehicle speed sensor wiring
plug is reconnected.
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
11, noting the following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
“A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4As the engine and transmission are
reconnected, guide the torque converter
studs through the holes in the driveplate.
When the engine is positioned flush with the
engine adapter plate and the transmission
housing, check that the torque converter is
free to move axially a small amount beforerefitting and tightening the engine-to-
transmission bolts.
5Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6Reconnect and adjust the selector rod.
7Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
8Fill the cooling system.
9Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission fluid level.
10Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator drivebelt.
11Adjust the throttle cable.
12Where applicable, adjust the kickdown
cable.
1The engine mountings incorporate
hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if
excessive engine movement is evident.
2Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the central nuts securing the engine
mounting brackets to the tops of the
mountings. Recover the washers.
3Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Working underneath the vehicle, remove
the central nuts securing the mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
5Raise the engine using a suitable hoist and
lifting tackle attached to the engine lifting
brackets on the cylinder head, or a jack and
interposed block of wood under the sump,
until the mountings can be withdrawn.
6Fit the new mountings, then lower the
engine onto them. Note that the locating pins
on the mountings must engage with the
corresponding holes in the engine mounting
brackets (see illustration).
7Fit the nuts and washers securing the
mountings to the crossmember and tighten
the nuts.
8Lower the vehicle to the ground and fit the
nuts and washers securing the engine
mounting brackets to the mountings. Tighten
the nuts.
16Engine mountings - renewal
15Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
reconnection and refitting
14Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - reconnection and
refitting
13Engine - refitting (automatic
transmission in vehicle)
12Engine - refitting (manual
gearbox in vehicle)
CVH engines 2C•9
2C
16.6 Locating pin on mounting must
engage with hole (arrowed) in engine
mounting bracket

1.8 litre (R2A type)
Dismantling
1It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to stripped down on the floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
of trouble.
4As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
5It is advisable to have suitable containers
available to hold small items according to
their use, as this will help when reassembling
the engine and also prevent possible losses.
6Always obtain a complete set of new
gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but
retain the old gaskets with a view to using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.
7Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts
and washers to their locations after removing
the relevant components. This will help to
protect the threads and will also prevent
possible losses.
8Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new components
supplied.
9A suitable Torx socket will be required to
remove the oil pump cover securing screws.
10Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally mounted
ancillary components can be removed:
Inlet manifold and carburettor
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump and operating pushrod
Alternator
Spark plugs
Oil pressure warning lamp switch (see
illustration)
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
Engine lifting brackets
Examination and renovation
11Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, PartA.
Reassembly
12To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it mustalso be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
bearings and other working surfaces
thoroughly with engine oil during assembly.
13Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
14Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
15If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts, big-end bolts/nuts and new
flywheel bolts will be required.
16After reassembling the main engine
components, refer to paragraph 10 and refit
the ancillary components listed. Delicate
items such as the alternator may be left until
after the engine has been refitted.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Dismantling
17Refer to paragraphs 1 to 9 inclusive.
18Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following ancillary
components can be removed:
Inlet manifold and CFI unit.
Exhaust manifold .
Alternator.
Spark plugs and HT leads.
Ignition coil and mounting bracket.
Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
Oil filter.
Dipstick and tube.
Engine mounting brackets.
Clutch.
Alternator mounting bracket.Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
Engine lifting brackets.
Crankcase ventilation hose.
Examination and renovation
19Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, PartA.
Reassembly
20Refer to paragraphs 12 to 16 but note that
new rocker arm nuts will be required, if they
have been removed.
Note: The belt tension should be checked
using Ford special tool No 21-113 after
refitting. A suitable puller may be required to
remove the sprockets. If the camshaft
sprocket is removed, a new retaining bolt
must be used on refitting, and suitable sealant
(Loctite 74 or 274, or Omnifit 30M blue) will be
required to coat the bolt threads.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the alternator drivebelt
c)Remove the distributor cap, rotor arm and
housing
d)Disconnect the wiring plug from the
crankshaft speed/position sensor
e)Unclip the coolant hoses from the timing
cover, and position them across the top
of the camshaft cover out of the way
f)If desired for improved access, remove
the fan shroud and cooling fan assembly,
although this is not essential
2Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever.
3Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley (see illustration). If the pulley will
not come off easily, refit the bolt part way and
use a puller, but take care not to damage the
sensor toothed disc.
18Timing belt and sprockets -
removal and refitting
17Engine dismantling,
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information
2C•10CVH engines
17.10 Removing the oil pressure warning
lamp switch - 1.8 litre (R2A)
18.5 Withdrawing the timing cover -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.3 Withdrawing the crankshaft pulley -
1.8 litre (R2A)

4Unscrew the two timing cover securing
nuts, and recover the earth tag and the
coolant hose clip.
5Unscrew the two securing bolts and
withdraw the timing cover (see illustration).
6Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, and using a
socket on the bolt, turn the engine clockwise
until the TDC (top dead centre) lug on the
crankshaft sprocket is uppermost, and in line
with the notch in the oil pump flange, and the
pointer on the camshaft sprocket is aligned
with the dot on the cylinder head front face
(see illustrations).
7Loosen the two timing belt tensioner bolts,
press the tensioner to the left against the
spring tension, and tighten the two bolts to
retain the tensioner in the released position.
8Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the sprockets,and withdraw the belt (see illustration).
9If desired, the camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets can be removed as follows,
otherwise proceed to paragraph 19. The
coolant pump sprocket is integral with the
pump and cannot be removed separately.
10Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt,
preventing the crankshaft from turning as
before if necessary, then remove the
crankshaft sprocket. Refit the bolt part way
and use a puller if necessary. Recover the
Woodruff key from the end of the crankshaft
and remove the thrustwasher (see
illustrations).
11Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while
holding the sprocket stationary with a 41 mm
ring spanner. Alternatively, make up a tool
similar to that shown for tightening the bolt
and hold the sprocket using two boltsengaged in the sprockets holes. Recover the
distributor rotor shaft which is held in place by
the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration).
12Remove the camshaft sprocket, refitting
the bolt part way and using a puller if
necessary (see illustration).
13If desired, the timing belt backplate can
be removed by lifting it from the studs (see
illustration)and the timing belt tensioner and
coolant pump can be removed.
14If required, the camshaft oil seal can be
removed using self-tapping screws and a pair
of grips. A new seal can be fitted using a
suitable tube drift to press it into place.
Lubricate the seal lips with clean engine oil
before installation.
Refitting
15Refit the sprockets as follows.
CVH engines 2C•11
2C
18.8 Withdrawing the timing belt -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.13 Removing the timing belt backplate -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.12 Using a puller to remove the
camshaft sprocket - 1.8 litre (R2A)18.11 Removing the camshaft sprocket
bolt and distributor rotor shaft -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.10c . . . and the thrustwasher -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.10b . . . the Woodruff key . . .18.10a Remove the crankshaft
sprocket . . .
18.6b TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket
aligned with dot on cylinder head -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.6a TDC lug on crankshaft sprocket
aligned with notch in oil pump flange -
1.8 litre (R2A)

16Where applicable, refit the timing belt
tensioner and coolant pump, locate the timing
belt backplate over the studs, then fit the
camshaft sprocket and the distributor rotor
shaft.
17The camshaft sprocket bolt must be
coated with sealant before installation. The
manufacturers recommend Loctite 74 or 274,
or Omnifit 30M blue. With the sealant applied,
insert the bolt, hold the camshaft sprocket
stationary as during removal, and tighten the
bolt to the specified torque (see illustration).
18Refit the thrustwasher with the convex
side facing forwards, and refit the Woodruff
key, then refit the crankshaft sprocket with the
“FRONT” mark facing forwards.
19Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
sprocket, but do not engage it with the other
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt,
and if the old belt is being refitted, observe the
previously noted running direction.20Make sure that the TDC pointer on the
camshaft sprocket is still aligned with the dot
on the cylinder head front face.
21Check that the TDC lug on the crankshaft
sprocket is still in line with the notch in the oil
pump flange. If necessary, refit the crankshaft
pulley bolt, if not already done, and using a
socket on the bolt, turn the crankshaft by the
shortest possible route to align the lug and
notch.
22Starting at the crankshaft and working in
an anti-clockwise direction, fit the timing belt
over the camshaft sprocket, round the
tensioner roller, and over the coolant pump
sprocket.
23Slacken the tensioner bolts, allow the
tensioner roller to rest against the belt, then
tighten the tensioner bolts.
24Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, if not
already done, and using a socket on the bolt,
turn the engine through two revolutions in a
clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder
back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º
anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
25The belt tension should now be checked
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21-
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge
readings are:
Used belt - 4 to 6
New belt - 10 to 11
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough
guide is that the belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers using moderate
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
that the belt tension can be checked using the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
26If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner
bolts and move the tensioner to increase or
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
27Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º
BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
Check the belt tension again (see
illustration).28Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
26 and 27 until the belt tension is correct.
29Refit the timing cover and secure with the
two bolts and nuts. Ensure that the earth tag
and the coolant hose clip are fitted under the
relevant nuts (see illustration).
30Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, then
refit the crankshaft pulley and the bolt and
washer. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, preventing the
crankshaft from turning as described in
paragraph 2.
31If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
32If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)Remove the alternator drivebelt.
c)Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, noting their locations; detach the
HT lead bracket from the camshaft cover,
and position the leads out of the way.
d)Move the coolant hoses from the front of
the timing cover, and position them
across the top of the camshaft cover out
of the way.
e)If desired for improved access, remove
the fan shroud and the cooling fan
assembly, although this is not essential.
33Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to
30 inclusive, noting the following differences
for the 1.6 litre engine (see illustrations).
a)There is no sensor toothed disc on the
crankshaft pulley.
b)A two-piece timing cover is fitted,
consisting of upper and lower sections,
each secured by two bolts. No earth tag
or coolant hose clip is fitted to the bolts.
c)The TDC datum on the oil pump takes the
form of a lug instead of a notch.
d)There is no distributor rotor shaft fitted to
the camshaft sprocket bolt.
e)There is no timing belt backplate.
34On completion, if the engine is in the
vehicle, reverse the operations given in
paragraph 32.
2C•12CVH engines
18.17 Tightening the camshaft sprocket
bolt. Hold the sprocket stationary using an
improvised tool with two bolts engaged in
the sprocket holes - 1.8 litre (R2A)
18.27 No 1 cylinder at 60°BTDC for
checking of timing belt tension -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.29 Earth tag (1) and coolant hose clip (2)
locations on timing cover -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.25 Twisting the timing belt to assess its
tension - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 20 before proceeding.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the coolant pump elbow, and the coolant
bypass hose from the left-hand side of the
cylinder head, then unclip the hoses from the
timing cover and move them to one side out
of the way (see illustrations).
4Remove the air cleaner.5Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and coil, identifying them for position if
necessary, unclip the leads from the camshaft
cover, then remove the distributor cap, rotor
arm and housing. Remove the spark plugs.
6Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead
from the battery tray.
7The cylinder head can be removed either with
or without the manifolds. If desired, the inlet
manifold can be unbolted and moved to one
side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected, but care must be taken not to strain
any of the wires, hoses, pipes or cables.
8Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifoid flange. Recover the gasket.
9If desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
10If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevantwires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported (see
illustration).
11If desired, remove the fuel pump and
operating pushrod.
12Proceed as described in Section 20 to
complete cylinder head removal.
Refitting
13With the cylinder head refitted as
described in Section 20, proceed as follows.
14Where applicable, refit the fuel pump and
operating pushrod.
15Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable.
16Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold, using a new gasket.
17Reconnect the earth lead to the battery
tray.
18Refit the spark plugs, then refit the
distributor cap, rotor arm and housing, and
reconnect the HT leads.
19Refit the air cleaner.
20Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
coolant pump elbow and the cylinder head,
and locate them in the clip on the timing
cover.
21Fill the cooling system.
22Reconnect the battery negative lead.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Removal
23Disconnect the battery negative lead.
24Drain the cooling system.
25Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing, and the bypass hose
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head,
then move them to one side out of the way.
26Remove the air cleaner.
27Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, identifying them for position if
necessary. Unclip them from the camshaft
cover, and move them to one side out of the
way.
28Remove the spark plugs.
29Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead
from the battery tray.
30The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds. If desired, the
inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to
one side (after unbolting the dipstick tube),19Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
CVH engines 2C•13
2C
19.10 Withdraw the inlet manifold -
1.8 litre (R2A)19.3b Coolant bypass hose connection at
cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)19.3a Disconnecting the heater coolant
hose from the coolant pump elbow -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.33d Oil pump TDC lug (A) and
crankshaft sprocket lug (B) -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)18.33c Removing the lower timing cover -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)
18.33b Removing the upper timing cover -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)18.33a Upper timing cover securing bolts
(arrowed) - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected. However, care must be taken not
to strain any of the wires, hoses or cables.
31Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring connector (see illustration)
then unscrew the three securing bolts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
32If desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
33If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported.
34Note the information given in paragraphs
18 to 21 inclusive of Section 20.
Refitting
35With the cylinder head refitted, proceed
as follows.
36Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
wires, hoses, pipes and cables as applicable.
37Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold using a new gasket, and reconnect
the exhaust gas oxygen sensor wiring
connector.
38Reconnect the earth lead to the battery
tray.
39Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the
HT leads.
40Refit the air cleaner.
41Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing and cylinder head.
42Fill the cooling system.
43Reconnect the battery negative lead.Note: The cylinder head bolts must always be
renewed after slackening, and a new cylinder
head gasket and camshaft cover gasket must
be used on refitting. If the engine has recently
run, the cylinder head must be allowed to cool
to room temperature before it is removed.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprocket,
and timing belt backplate.
3Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the camshaft cover.
4Unscrew the nine securing bolts and
remove the camshaft cover and gasket (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the ten cylinder head bolts half a
turn at a time in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening.
6With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block (see illustration). If the
cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a
wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the
joint between the cylinder head and block as
this may result in damage to the mating faces.
Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.7Recover the gasket, and the locating
dowels if they are loose (see illustration).
Refitting
8Commence refitting as follows.
9Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent any damage to
open valves.
10Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then refit the locating dowels to the
block where applicable, and locate a new
gasket over the dowels with the red sealing
bead and the “1.8” mark uppermost (see
illustrations). Do not use jointing compound.
11Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the
dot on the cylinder head front face.
12Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
making sure that the locating dowels engage.
13Insert the new cylinder head bolts into
their locations in the cylinder head, then
tighten the bolts in the order shown to the five
stages given in the Specifications (see
illustrations).
14Fit a new camshaft cover gasket to the
cylinder head, ensuring that the gasket
locates correctly over the edges of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
15Refit the camshaft cover and tighten the
bolts evenly, ensuring that the studded bolts
which retain the HT lead clips are refitted to
their correct positions (see illustration).
20Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine removed)
2C•14CVH engines
19.31 Disconnecting the exhaust gas
oxygen sensor wiring connector -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)20.6 Withdraw the cylinder head bolts and
lift the cylinder head from the block -
1.8 litre (R2A)
20.10b . . . then locate a new gasket with
the red sealing bead and “1.8” mark
uppermost - 1.8 litre (R2A)20.10a Fit the locating dowels (arrowed) to
the block . . .20.7 Recover the cylinder head gasket -
1.8 litre (R2A)
20.4 Remove the camshaft cover and
gasket - 1.8 litre (R2A)

16Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
to the camshaft cover.
17Refit the timing belt backplate, camshaft
sprocket and timing belt.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
18With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
19Remove the timing belt.
20Proceed as shown in paragraphs 3 to 16
inclusive, noting the following differences for
the 1.6 litre engine only:
a)Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in the
reverse order to that shown for tightening.
b)The cylinder head gasket is identified by a
single tooth on its edge, and the gasket
must be fitted with the tooth nearest theoil filter end of the engine, as shown (see
illustration).
c)Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the
order shown (see illustration), to the four
stages given in the Specifications at the
beginning of this Chapter.
d)Ignore the reference to the studded
camshaft cover bolts.
21On completion, refit the timing belt.
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
required during this procedure. New valve
stem oil seals should be used on
reassembly.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Dismantling
1With the cylinder head removed, remove
the camshaft.
2Using a valve spring compressor, compress
one of the valve springs until the split collets
can be removed from the grooves in the valve
stem. Release the compressor and remove
the cap and spring, identifying them for
location. If the cap is difficult to release, do
not continue to tighten the compressor, but
gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer.
Always make sure that the compressor is
firmly located on the valve head and the cap
(see illustrations).
3Prise the oil seal from the valve stem, and
remove the spring seat, then withdraw the
valve (see illustrations).
21Cylinder head - dismantling
and reassembly
CVH engines 2C•15
2C
20.14 Ensure that the camshaft cover
gasket locates over the edges of the
cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)
21.2c . . . then remove the cap and spring -
1.8 litre (R2A)21.2b . . . to free the split collets . . .
20.20b Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - 1.6 litre20.20a Cylinder head gasket correctly
located - 1.6 litre
A Locating dowelsB Identification teeth
21.2a Compress the valve spring . . .
20.13b Tighten the cylinder head bolts
using an angle gauge - 1.8 litre (R2A)20.13a Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - 1.8 litre (R2A)
20.15 Fit the camshaft cover, ensuring that
the studded bolts (arrowed) are correctly
located - 1.8 litre (R2A)

4Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
2 and 3 for the remaining valves, keeping all
components identified for location so that
they can be refitted in their original positions.
Note that the inlet valve springs are fitted with
metal dampers. The damper is an integral part
of the spring and cannot be removed (see
illustration).
Reassembly
5Commence reassembly by lubricating the
valve stems and guides with SAE 80/90
hypoid oil, then insert the valves into their
original guides.
6Refit the spring seats over the valve stems.
7Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape over the
collet grooves of each valve, then smear the
new oil seals with a little hypoid oil and slide
them down the valve stems onto the spring
seats. Use a suitable metal tube to seat the
seals, then remove the adhesive tape from the
valves (see illustration).
8Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve
spring and cap, then compress the spring
using the valve spring compressor and fit the
split collets to the groove in the valve stem.
Release the compressor and tap the end of
the valve stem with a soft-faced mallet to
settle the components. If the original
components are being refitted, ensure that
they are refitted in their original locations.
9Refit the camshaft.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
10Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 9
inclusive, but note that no dampers are fitted
to the inlet valve springs on the 1.6 litre engine.Refer to Section 23, Chapter 2, Part A but
pay particular attention to the note at the
beginning of the Section as all CVH engines
are fitted with hardened valve seats.
Note: A new camshaft oil seal and new rocker
arm securing nuts should be used when
refitting.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1Remove the cylinder head.
2Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the
rocker arm guides, rocker arms, and cam
follower guide retainers, then lift out the cam
follower guides and the cam followers. Keep
all components in the correct order so that
each component can be refitted in the original
position if it is to be re-used. It is advisable to
store the cam followers upright in an oil bath
until they are to be refitted. Ensure that the
depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the cam
followers.
3Prise out the camshaft oil seal, taking care
not to damage the surface of the camshaft. If
necessary use self-tapping screws and a
suitable pair of grips to withdraw the seal.4Unscrew the two securing bolts and
withdraw the camshaft thrustplate from the
front of the cylinder head.
5Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
front of the cylinder head, taking care not to
damage the bearings. If necessary, loosely
refit the camshaft sprocket and bolt to aid
removal.
Inspection
6Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes, and the cam follower rollers
for wear. If wear is excessive, considerable
noise would have been noticed from the top of
the engine when running, and a new camshaft
and followers must be fitted. It is unlikely that
this level of wear will occur unless a
considerable mileage has been covered. Note
that the cam followers cannot be dismantled
for renewal of individual components.
7Check the camshaft bearings in the cylinder
head for wear. If excessive wear is evident, it
may be possible to have the head machined by
a suitably equipped engineering workshop to
enable a camshaft with oversize bearing
journals to be fitted. The only other course of
action available is renewal of the cylinder head.
8Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
9Check the cam follower oil ports and the oil
holes in the cylinder head for obstructions
(see illustrations).
Refitting
10Commence refitting by lubricating the
camshaft, bearings and thrustplate with
23Camshaft and cam followers
- removal, inspection and
refitting
22Cylinder head - inspection and
renovation
2C•16CVH engines
21.3a Remove the spring seat . . .21.4 Inlet valve components. Spring
damper arrowed - 1.8 litre (R2A)
23.9b Cam follower supply hole (arrowed)
in cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)23.9a Hydraulic cam follower oil port
(arrowed) - 1.8 litre (R2A)21.7 Seat each new valve seal using a
metal tube - 1.8 litre (R2A)
21.3b . . . and valve - 1.8 litre (R2A)