1991 MITSUBISHI MONTERO lock

incorrect index, see FUEL
SYSTEMS
Hot fast idle RPM too low Reset fast idle RPM,
see TUNE-UP









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BASIC HOT START SYMPTOMS TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART








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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Engine Won't Engine flooded Allow fuel to
Start evaporate









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BASIC COLD ENGINE DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART








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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Engine Stalls in Choke vacuum kick setting Reset choke vacuum
Gear incorrect kick, see FUEL
SYSTEMS
Fast idle RPM incorrect Reset fast idle RPM,
see TUNE-UP
Fast idle cam index Reset fast idle cam
incorrect see FUEL SYSTEMS









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Acceleration Sag Defective choke control Replace choke
or Stall switch control switch
Choke vacuum kick setting Reset choke vacuum
incorrect kick see, FUEL
SYSTEMS
Float level incorrect Adjust float level,
(too low) FUEL SYSTEMS
Accelerator pump defective Repair or replace
pump see FUEL
SYSTEMS
Secondary throttles not Inspect lockout
closed adjustment,see FUEL
SYSTEMS









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Sag or Stall Defective choke control Replace choke
After Warmup switch control switch, see
FUEL SYSTEMS
Defective accelerator pump Replace pump, see
FUEL SYSTEMS
Float level incorrect Adjust float level,
(too low) see FUEL SYSTEMS









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Backfiring & Plugged heat crossover Remove restriction
Black Smoke system









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BASIC WARM ENGINE DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART








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batteries
Bad starter connections Check connections
or bad starter and/or replace
batteries









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Engine Cranks Bad battery connections Check connections
Slowly, Won't or dead batteries and/or replace
Start batteries
Engine oil too heavy Replace engine oil









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Engine Cranks Glow plugs not functioning Check glow plug system,
Normally, But see FUEL SYSTEMS
Will Not Start Glow plug control not Check controller, see
functioning FUEL SYSTEMS
Fuel not injected into Check fuel injectors,
cylinders see FUEL SYSTEMS
No fuel to injection pump Check fuel delivery
system
Fuel filter blocked Replace fuel filter
Fuel tank filter blocked Replace fuel tank
filter
Fuel pump not operating Check pump operation
and/or replace pump
Fuel return system blocked Inspect system and
remove restriction
No voltage to fuel solenoid Check solenoid and
connections
Incorrect or contaminated Replace fuel
fuel
Incorrect injection pump Re-adjust pump timing,
timing see FUEL SYSTEMS
Low compression Check valves, pistons,
rings, see ENGINES
Injection pump malfunction Inspect and/or replace
injection pump









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Engine Starts, Incorrect slow idle Reset idle adjustment,
Won't Idle adjustment see TUNE-UP
Fast idle solenoid Check solenoid and
malfunctioning connections
Fuel return system blocked Check system and remove
restrictions
Glow plugs go off too soon See glow plug diagnosis
in FUEL SYSTEMS
Injection pump timing Reset pump timing, see
incorrect FUEL SYSTEMS
No fuel to injection pump Check fuel delivery
system
Incorrect or contaminated Replace fuel
fuel
Low compression Check valves, piston,
rings, see ENGINES
Injection pump malfunction Replace injection pump,
see FUEL SYSTEMS
Fuel solenoid closes in RUN Check solenoid and
position connections









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Engines Starts/ Incorrect slow idle Reset slow idle, see
Idles Rough W/out adjustment TUNE-UP
Smoke or Noise Injection line fuel leaks Check lines and
connections
Fuel return system blocked Check lines and
connections

Air in fuel system Bleed air from system
Incorrect or contaminated Replace fuel
fuel
Injector nozzle malfunction Check nozzles, see
FUEL SYSTEMS









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Engines Starts Injection pump timing Reset pump timing, see
and Idles Rough incorrect FUEL SYSTEMS
W/out Smoke or Engine not fully broken in Put more miles on
Noise, But Clears engine
After Warm-Up Air in system Bleed air from system
Injector nozzle malfunction Check nozzles, see
FUEL SYSTEMS









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Engine Idles Blocked fuel filter Replace fuel filter
Correctly, Injection pump timing Reset pump timing, see
Misfires Above incorrect FUEL SYSTEMS
Idle Incorrect or contaminated Replace fuel
fuel









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Engine Won't Fast idle adjustment Reset fast idle, see
Return To Idle incorrect TUNE-UP
Internal injection pump Replace injection pump,
malfunction see FUEL SYSTEMS
External linkage binding Check linkage and
remove binding









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Fuel Leaks On Loose or broken fuel line Check lines and
Ground connections
Internal injection pump Replace injection pump,
seal leak see FUEL SYSTEMS









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Cylinder Injector nozzles sticking Test injectors, see
Knocking Noise open FUEL SYSTEMS
Very low nozzle opening Test injectors and/or
pressure replace









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Loss of Engine Restricted air intake Remove restriction
Power EGR valve malfunction Replace EGR valve
Blocked or damaged exhaust Remove restriction
system and/or replace
components
Blocked fuel tank filter Replace filter
Restricted fuel filter Remove restriction
and/or replace filter
Block vent in gas cap Remove restriction
and/or replace cap
Tank-to-injection pump fuel Check fuel lines and
supply blocked connections
Blocked fuel return system Remove restriction
Incorrect or contaminated Replace fuel
fuel
Blocked injector nozzles Check nozzle for
blockage, see FUEL
SYSTEMS
Low compression Check valves, rings,
pistons, see ENGINES









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Loud Engine Basic timing incorrect Reset timing, see
Noise With Black FUEL SYSTEMS
Smoke EGR valve malfunction Replace EGR valve
Internal injection pump Replace injection pump,
malfunction see FUEL SYSTEMS

Excessive cylinder wear Rebore or replace
block
Excessive valve guide Worn or loose bearing
clearance









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Gap Bridged Deposits in combustion Clean combustion
chamber becoming fused chamber of deposits
to electrode









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Blistered Engine overheating Check cooling system
Electrode
Wrong type of fuel Replace with correct
fuel
Loose spark plugs Retighten spark plugs
Over-advanced ignition Reset ignition timing
timing see ENGINE PERFORMANCE









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Pre-Ignition or Incorrect type of fuel Replace with correct
Melted Electrodes fuel
Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Burned valves Replace valves
Engine Overheating Check cooling system
Wrong type of spark plug, Replace with correct
too hot spark plug, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE









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Chipped Severe detonation Check for over-
Insulators advanced timing or
combustion
Improper gapping Re-gap spark plugs
procedure









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Rust Colored Additives in unleaded Try different fuel
Deposits fuel brand









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Water In Combus- Blown head gasket or Repair or replace
tion Chamber cracked head head or head gasket









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NOTE: Before diagnosing an electronic ignition system, ensure that
all wiring is connected properly between distributor, wiring
connector and spark plugs. Ignition problem will show up
either as: Engine Will Not Start or Engine Runs Rough.
BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS









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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Engine Won't Open circuit between Repair circuit
Start distributor and bulkhead
connector
Open circuit between Repair circuit
bulkhead connector and

repair








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One or More, But Carburetor idle mixture Readjust carburetor,
Not All Firing not balanced see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Voltage Lines are
Higher Than Others EGR valve stuck open Clean and/or replace
valve
High resistance in spark Replace spark plug
plug wires wires
Cracked or broken spark Replace spark plugs
plug insulator
Intake vacuum leak Repair leak
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Corroded spark plug Replace spark plugs
terminals









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One or More, But Curb idle mixture not Readjust carburetor,
Not All Firing balanced see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Voltage Lines Are
Lower Than Others Breaks in plug wires Replace plug wires
causing arcing
Cracked coil tower causing Replace coil
arcing
Low compression Determine cause and
repair
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Corroded spark plugs Replace spark plugs









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Cylinders Not Cracked distributor cap Replace distributor
Firing terminals cap
Shorted spark plug wire Determine cause and
repair
Mechanical problem in Determine cause and
engine repair
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Spark plugs fouled Replace spark plugs









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BASIC DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS TROUBLE SHOOTING TABLE








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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Hard Starting Binding carburetor linkage Eliminate binding
Binding choke linkage Eliminate binding
Binding choke piston Eliminate binding
Restricted choke vacuum Check vacuum lines
for blockage

Noise When Stepping On Clutch .Bad release bearing,
.Worn pilot bearing









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Ticking Or Screeching As
Clutch Is Engaged .Faulty release bearing,
.Uneven pressure plate fingers









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Click Or Snap When Clutch
Is Engaged .Worn clutch fork,
.Worn or broken front bearing
retainer









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Transmission Shifts Hard .Clutch not releasing,
.Shift mechanism binding,
.Clutch installed backwards









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Will Not Shift Into One
Gear, Shifts Into All
Others .Bent shift fork,
.Worn detent balls









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Locked Into Gear,
Cannot Shift .Clutch adjustment,
.Worn detent balls









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Transmission Jumps Out
Of Gear .Pilot bearing worn,
.Bent shift fork,
.Worn gear teeth or face
.Excessive gear train end play
.Worn synchronizers
.Missing detent ball spring
.Shift mechanism worn or out of
adjustment
.Engine or transmission mount
bolts loose or out of adjustment
.Transmission not aligned









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Shift Lever Rattle .Worn shift lever or detents
.Worn shift forks
.Worn synchronizers sleeve









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Shift Lever Hops Under
Acceleration .Worn engine or transmission
mounts
( 1) - Most units use spur cut gears in reverse and are noisy









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POWERTRAIN
CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

Dry or binding clutch Lubricate and align
pedal hub components
Floor mat interference Lay mat flat in proper
with pedal area
Dry or binding ball/fork Lubricate and align
pivots components
Faulty clutch cable Replace clutch cable









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Noisy Clutch Faulty interlock switch Replace interlock
Pedal switch
Self-adjuster ratchet Lubricate or replace
noise self-adjuster
Speed control interlock Lubricate or replace
switch interlock switch









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Clutch Pedal Binding clutch cable See CLUTCH article
Sticks Down
Springs weak in pressure Replace pressure plate
plate
Binding in clutch linkage Lubricate and free
linkage









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Noisy Dry release bearing Lubricate or replace
release bearing
Dry or worn pilot bearing Lubricate or replace
bearing
Worn input shaft bearing Replace bearing









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Transmission Weak springs in pressure Replace pressure plate
Click plate
Release fork loose on ball Replace release fork
stud and/or ball stud
Oil on clutch disc damper Replace clutch disc
Broken spring in slave Replace slave cylinder
cylinder









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DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Unrelated Noises
Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the
engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires, and other parts of the
vehicle. Ensure cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before
adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of its parts.
Non-Drive Axle Noises
A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and
have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most common noises are
exhaust, tires, CV/universal joints and wheel trim rings.

In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may
sound like gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel
bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched
tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard
tires with an unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or
excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive
axle problems.
Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining
noise. Ensure none of these components are causing the noise before
disassembling the drive axle.
Gear Noise
A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear
can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear damage, or improper
bearing preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving
conditions, or it can be continuous.
Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear
noise, make sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been
checked as possible causes.
Chuckle
This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick
against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It occurs while
decelerating from 40 MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes
to a complete stop. The frequency varies with the speed of the
vehicle.
A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused
by excessive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a damaged
tooth on the coast side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small
tooth nick or a ridge on the edge of a gear tooth is enough the cause
the noise.
This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear
tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If either gear is
damaged or scored badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has
broken loose, the carrier and housing must be cleaned to remove
particles that could cause damage.
Knock
This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder,
and occur on acceleration or deceleration. Knock can be caused by a
gear tooth that is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion
gears. Ring gear bolts that are hitting the carrier casting can cause
knock. Knock can also be due to excessive end play in the axle shafts.
Clunk
Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic
transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle is
applied or released. It is caused by backlash somewhere in the
driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To determine whether
driveline clunk is caused by the axle, check the total axle backlash
as follows:
1) Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive
wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle companion flange and a part
of the frame or body so that flange cannot move.
2) On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep
it from turning. On all models, turn the right wheel slowly until it
is felt to be in Drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire
about 12" from center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction
until it is again felt to be in Drive condition.
3) Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total