6Where applicable, remove the brake pipes
from the clips on the crossmember, taking
care not to strain them, and detach any cables
or electrical leads which may be secured with
clips or cable-ties, noting their positions.
7Support the crossmember with a jack, then
unscrew and remove the four mounting bolts
(see illustration).
8Lower the crossmember and withdraw it
from under the vehicle.
9If desired, the engine mountings can now
be unbolted from the crossmember.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear
in mind the following points.
11Do not tighten the lower arm pivot bolts
until the weight of the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. This is to prevent “wind up” of the
rubber bushes which will occur when the
vehicle is lowered if the bolts have been
tightened with no load on the suspension. The
following procedure must be used when
tightening the pivot bolts. Tighten the bolt to
the specified “clamping” torque, then loosen
the bolt fully. Re-tighten to the specified
“snug” torque and then further tighten the bolt
through the specified angle.
12Refit any cables or electrical leads in their
original positions, where applicable.
13When lowering the engine onto its
mountings, ensure that the locating pegs on
the mountings engage with the holes in the
mounting brackets.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable) (see
illustration).4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut from the lower arm balljoint.
Using a balljoint separator tool, disconnect
the lower arm from the hub carrier. The lower
arm can now be withdrawn from the vehicle.
Recover the remaining dished washer and
plastic cover (where applicable) from the end
of the anti-roll bar.
Overhaul
6If the lower arm has been removed due to a
worn balljoint, the complete arm must be
renewed.
7The anti-roll bar compliance bushes can be
renewed as described in Section 8, but note
that the bushes on both sides of the vehicle
must be renewed at the same time. The lower
arm inner pivot bush can be renewed as
described in Section 9.
Refitting
8To refit the lower arm, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washer (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic cover
(where applicable) to the end of the anti-roll
bar, then refit the lower arm to the anti-roll
bar. Fit the remaining plastic cover (where
applicable) and the deep dished washer
(colour coded yellow or black) and refit the
securing nut. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage. Note that the convex faces of the
dished washers must face the lower arm.10Reconnect the balljoint to the hub carrier,
refit the castellated nut and tighten to the
specified torque. Fit a new split pin.
11Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
12Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
13Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: A spring compressor tool will be
required if the strut is to be dismantled.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand to avoid straining the
hose.
4Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and detach the
wire from the clip on the strut. Unplug the
connector and place the sensor to one side.
5Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut. Using a
suitable lever, such as a cold chisel, lever the
hub carrier clamp legs and wedge them apart.
6Lever the suspension lower arm
downwards to separate the hub carrier from
the bottom of the strut.
4Front suspension strut -
removal, overhaul and refitting
3Front suspension lower arm -
removal,overhaul and refitting
11•4Suspension and steering
2.3 Engine mounting nut (arrowed)
3.3 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut (arrowed)3.2 Front suspension lower arm-to-
crossmember pivot bolt and nut
2.7 Front suspension crossmember
mounting bolts (arrowed)
7Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the strut upper mounting nut, at the
same time supporting the strut from below.
Use a 6 mm Allen key inserted in the end of
the strut piston rod to prevent the rod from
turning as the upper mounting nut is
unscrewed (see illustration). On some
models, the upper mounting nut may be fitted
with a plastic cover. Note the upper mounting
cup under the nut.
8Withdraw the strut from under the wing of
the vehicle.
Overhaul
9To dismantle the strut, proceed as follows.
10Using spring compressors, compress the
coil spring. Do not attempt to compress the
spring without using purpose-made spring
compressors, as the spring is under
considerable tension, and personal injury may
occur if it is suddenly released (see
illustration).
11Hold the piston rod as described in
paragraph 7, unscrew the nut from the pistonrod and remove the lower cup, bearing, spring
seat, gaiter, coil spring and bump stop (see
illustration).
12Working in the engine compartment,
remove the upper cup and nylon spacer, and
if required prise out the rubber insulator.
13Clean all the components and examine
them for wear and damage. Check the action
of the shock absorber by mounting it vertically
in a vice and operating the piston rod several
times through its full stroke. If any uneven
resistance is evident, the shock absorber
must be renewed. Renew any worn or
damaged components as applicable.
Refitting
14Reassembly and refitting is a reversal of
dismantling and removal, bearing in mind the
following points.
15When reassembling, ensure that the gaiter
is fitted over the bump stop, and that the ends
of the coil spring are correctly located on the
spring seats. Also ensure that the bearing is
correctly located on the upper spring seat.
16Fit the nylon spacer over the piston rod
before fitting the strut to the top mounting.
17Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
18On P100 models align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand, or suspend it with wire
from the coil spring to avoid straining the hose.
4Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, and on Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate models, remove the
retaining screw or spire washer(s), as
applicable, and remove the disc. On P100
models, unscrew the five retaining nuts and
remove the wheel adapter plate and disc.
5Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and unplug the
wiring connector. Place the sensor to one side.
6Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut securing the tie-rod end to the
hub carrier. Using a balljoint separator tool,
disconnect the tie-rod end from the hub carrier.
7Repeat the procedure given in the previous
paragraph for the lower arm-to-hub carrier
balljoint.
8Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut (see
illustration). Using a suitable lever, such as a
cold chisel, lever the hub carrier clamp legs
and wedge them apart. Withdraw the hub
carrier from the strut.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new split pins on the castellated nuts, and
align the previously made marks on the brake
disc and hub. Tighten all fixings to the
specified torque.
10On P100 models align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.
5Front hub carrier -removaland
refitting
Suspension and steering 11•5
11
5.8 Unscrewing the hub carrier-to-strut
pinch-bolt
4.11 Cross-section of the front strut upper mounting
A Bearing
B Nylon spacer
C Upper cupD Rubber insulator
E Lower cup
F Spring seatG Bump stop
H Gaiter
4.10 Suspension strut fitted with spring
compressors
4.7 Hold the strut piston rod with a 6 mm
Allen key when unscrewing the upper
mounting nut
pivot pin. Take care not to lose the
components (see illustration).
5Remove the brake cable sheaths from their
brackets on the vehicle underbody.
6Unscrew the brake pipes from the brake
hoses at the brackets on the vehicle
underbody. Plug the ends of the pipes and
hoses to prevent leakage and dirt ingress,
then detach the hoses from the brackets by
removing the U-shaped retaining clips (see
illustration).
7Where applicable, disconnect the ABS
sensors, and detach the leads from the clips
on the lower arms.
8Place suitable blocks beneath the rear
wheels, then lower the vehicle so that the rear
coil springs are lightly loaded. Reposition the
axle stands under the side members.
9Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
10Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the two anti-roll bar mountings from the
underbody.
11Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing each of the front guide plates to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tabs on the larger bolts.
12Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the final drive unit rear mounting to
the underbody. Note the location and number
of any shims which may be fitted (see
illustration).
13Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
disconnect the shock absorber upper
mountings. On Saloon and Hatchbackmodels, access is gained by removing the
trim covers behind the side cushions. Each
cover is secured by two self-tapping screws,
and the shock absorber is secured by a bolt
and nut. On Estate models, fold down the rear
seat backrest, fold back the floor covering
and remove the front section of the luggage
compartment floor, which is secured with 12
self-tapping screws. Remove the nut and
washer from the shock absorber.
14Using a jack and a wooden beam
positioned beneath the longitudinal
underbody side members, raise the rear of the
vehicle until the rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly can be withdrawn from
under the vehicle.
15If desired, the assembly can be
dismantled with reference to the relevant
Sections of this Chapter and Chapter 9.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
17Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolts by bending up the
lockwasher tabs.
18Ensure that the coil springs are located
correctly on their seats on the vehicle
underbody.
19When refitting the final drive rear mounting
to the underbody, refit any shims in their original
noted positions, and fit the bolts with reference
to the note at the beginning of this Section.
20Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
21On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake. With the vehicle level,
check the final drive unit oil level.
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Remove the relevant driveshaft.
3Remove the handbrake cable from the clip
on the lower arm.
4Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm. Plug the
ends of the pipe and hose to prevent leakage
and dirt ingress, then detach the hose from
the bracket by removing the U-shaped
retaining clip (see illustration).
5Unscrew the brake pipe from the wheel
cylinder on the brake backplate and plug the
end of the pipe and the cylinder to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
6Unscrew the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the lower arm and tie the
backplate to one side.
7Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
8Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
9Remove the shock absorber.
10Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tab(s) on the larger bolt.
11Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring and rubber cup.
12Note the orientation of the two lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
then unscrew and remove them and withdraw
the lower arm from under the vehicle (see
illustration).
13If the lower arm is to be renewed, unclip
the brake pipe, and refit to the new arm.
14If required, the pivot bushes may be
renewed using a long bolt, nut, washers and a
suitable metal tube. Lubricate the new bushes
with soapy water before fitting.
11Rear suspension lower arm
(Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) -removaland
refitting
11•8Suspension and steering
10.4 Handbrake equaliser-to-operating rod
circlip and pivot pin (arrowed)10.11 Rear suspension front guide plate -
lockwasher arrowed
11.4 Brake pipe bracket on lower arm. U-
shaped retaining clip arrowed10.12 Final drive unit-to-underbody rear
mounting
10.6 Rear underbody brake pipe bracket -
U-shaped hose retaining clip arrowed
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
17Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
18On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Models with rear disc brakes
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the drive flange, and a new rear hub
nut must be used on reassembly.
Removal
19With the vehicle resting on its wheels,
loosen the rear hub nut. A suitable extension
bar will be required, as the nut is extremely
tight. Note that the left-hand nut has a
left-hand thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise
direction. Before loosening the nut, ensure
that the handbrake is applied, and chock the
relevant rear wheel.
20Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, jack
up the rear of the car and support on axle
stands placed under the side members.
21Remove the rear roadwheel.
22Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie from the joint.
23Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm (see
illustration). Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the bracket by removing
the U-shaped retaining clip.
24Remove the handbrake cable from the
clip on the lower arm.
25Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it to one
side, taking care not to strain the brake hose.
26Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the hub, remove the retaining spire
washer(s), and remove the disc.
27Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid strainingthe joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
28Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller pull off the drive flange.
29Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield.
Note that the stub axle is retained in the hub
carrier.
30Disconnect the ABS sensor, and detach
the lead from the clip on the lower arm.
31Remove the propeller shaft.
32Proceed as shown in paragraphs 7 to 14
inclusive.
Refitting
33Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
34Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tabs.
35When refitting the hub carrier to the lower
arm note that there are two types of bolts used
. The two types of bolt must not be mixed on a
vehicle, but can be changed in complete sets
for the alternative type. A complete set is eight
bolts, four each side. Note that the two types
of bolt have different torque wrench settings.
When renewing the wheel bearings a suitable
puller will be required to remove the drive
flange, and a new rear hub nut must be used
on reassembly.36When refitting the drive flange to the hub
assembly, use a new hub nut, and leave
tightening until the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. Apply the handbrake and chock the
relevant rear wheel when tightening the nut.
37When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and hub.
38Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
39On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Saloon and Hatchback models
1With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt and nut from the relevant
lower arm (see illustration). If desired, the
rear of the vehicle can be raised on ramps to
improve access.
2Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
remove the trim cover behind the side
cushion. The cover is secured by two
self-tapping screws (see illustrations).
12Rear shock absorber -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•9
11
11.23 Rear suspension lower arm brake
pipe brackets (arrowed)
A Left-hand bracketB Right-hand bracket
12.1 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
- Saloon and Hatchback models
11.12 Lower arm-to-crossmember inner
pivot11.10 Rear suspension front guide plate
12.2a Remove the trim cover . . .