1991 FORD FESTIVA battery

2. Measure camshaft bearing journals and cylinder head bores (with bearing caps in place and torqued to specification). See Fig. 7 .
Subtract camshaft bearing journal O.D. from cylinder head bore I.D. to obtain oil clearance. If clearance is not within specification,
replace head and/or camshaft. See CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
table under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS at end of article.
Installation (1.6L)
1. Lubricate camshaft bearings with engine oil. Position camshaft(s) in cylinder head. Ensure all tappets are in place. Install intake cam
with the "I" mark straight up and exhaust cam with the "E" mark straight up. Install bearing caps according to numbers and arrows.
Arrows point to front of engine. Tighten retaining bolts gradually and in sequence to specification See Fig. 6
. See, at end of this article,
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table.
2. Install distributor (if removed). Install camshaft seal using Seal Protector (T90P-6256-AH) and Seal Installer (T90P-6256-BH). Install
seal plate and tighten retaining screws to specification. Install camshaft pulley to specification and tighten retaining bolt to specification.
3. Install timing belt. Install cam cover. Install throttle cable and retaining brackets. Install intake air tube and connect air by-pass hoses.
Connect battery ground terminal. Start engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

Fig. 6: Cam Bearing Cap Tightening Sequence (1.6L)

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. cam shaft.
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bearing oil seal. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
WATER PUMP
Removal & Installation (1.3L)
Remove timing belt. Drain cooling system. Remove lower radiator hose and heater return hose from water pump. Remove water pump
retaining bolts and water pump. Clean gasket mounting surface and replace gasket. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Removal (1.6L)
1. Remove timing belt. See TIMING BELT . Drain cooling system. Remove timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys. Remove oil dipstick
bracket retaining bolt.
2. Remove power steering pump from retaining bracket, leaving hoses attached. Remove power steering bracket and position power
steering pump to one side. Remove water pump outlet. Remove water pump retaining bolts and water pump.
Installation (1.6L)
1. Clean all gasket surfaces. Transfer rubber belt cover seal to new water pump (if required). Position water pump with new gasket and
install retaining bolts. Install pump outlet with new gasket and "O" ring. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of article.
2. Install oil dipstick retaining bolt. Install timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys. Install power steering pump bracket. Install power
steering pump. Tighten all bolts and nuts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of article.
3. Install timing belt. Fill cooling system. Start engine and check for leaks and proper system function.
OIL PAN
Removal (1.3L)
Disconnect battery ground cable. Raise vehicle and drain engine oil. Remove flywheel housing dust cover. Remove oil pan retaining bolts,
nuts and stiffeners. Rotate crankshaft while removing oil pan. Remove baffle plate from oil pan. Clean gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
Installation (1.3L)
Ensure gasket surfaces are clean. Apply oil resistant sealer to front and rear engine covers and across joint line of cylinder block.
Removal (1.6L)
1. Raise vehicle and drain engine oil. Remove frame brace retaining bolt. Loosen RH "A" arm front bolt, and pivot brace downward.
Disconnect front exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold (or turbocharger). Remove exhaust pipe bracket retaining bolts. Loosen rubber
exhaust hangers at catalytic converter.
2. Allow exhaust to hang supported by mechanic's wire. Disconnect turbocharger oil return hose (if equipped). Remove oil pan retaining
bolts. Carefully pry oil pan loose from cylinder block.
Installation (1.6L)
1. Clean pan and block gasket surfaces. Apply Gasket Sealant (E3AZ-19562-A) to new front and rear pan seals. Install seals to cylinder
block. Apply Gasket Sealant (E3AZ-19562-A) to oil pan gasket surface. See Fig. 8
. Install oil pan and tighten pan retaining bolts to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of article.
2. Connect turbocharger oil return hose (if equipped). Install rubber exhaust hanger to brackets. Install new gasket and connect fro n t
exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold (or turbocharger). Install front exhaust pipe bracket. Tighten nuts and bolts to specification.
3. Pivot frame brace into position. Tighten retaining bolt to crossmember and RH "A" arm front retaining bolt to specification. Lower
vehicle, fill with oil and start engine. Check for oil leaks and system operation. NOTE:Raise engine slightly with floor jack, if required, to gain clearance for water pum p rem oval.
CAUT ION: DO NOT force a pry tool between cylinder block and oil pan.
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ST ART ER
1991 ELECT RICAL Starters
DESCRIPTION
The Nippondenso direct drive starter is a conventional 12-volt, 4-pole, brush-type starter. The integral solenoid is attached to the drive
housing. When starter is energized, starter solenoid causes the starter pinion to engage with the flywheel ring gear. The overrunning clutch
pinion drive is mounted directly on armature shaft drive end.

Fig. 1: Starter System Schematic

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
ENGINE CRANKS SLOWLY
Undercharged battery. Loose or corroded cable connections. Bad starter.
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
Undercharged battery. Bad ignition switch. Bad clutch engage switch (M/T) or neutral safety switch (A/T). Loose or corroded cable
connections. Bad starter. Faulty circuit grounds.
STARTER SPINS & ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK
Bad starter. Bad flywheel ring gear and/or starter drive pinion.
ENGINE STARTS WITH CLUTCH ENGAGED (M/T)
Bad clutch engage switch. Adjust or replace.
ENGINE STARTS IN GEAR (A/T)
Bad neutral safety switch. Adjust or replace.
ON-VEHICLE TESTING
PRELIMINARY TEST
Ensure battery is fully charged and has load tested okay. If starter will not crank engine with fully charged battery, proceed with the following
test.
1. Using a digital voltmeter, connect positive voltmeter lead to starter solenoid terminal "S", and negative lead to starter housing. See Fig.
1 .
2. Turn ignition switch to START position, and observe voltmeter reading. If voltage at terminal "S" is greater than 8 volts, starter or circuit
malfunction is indicated. See VOLTAGE DROP TEST
and STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT TEST under ON-VEHICLE TESTING.
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3. If voltage is not present or is less than 8 volts at starter solenoid terminal "S", malfunction in circuit to terminal "S" is indicated. Proceed
to the following tests.
IGNITION SWITCH TEST
1. Locate ignition switch connector under dash. Using a 12-volt test light or voltmeter, ensure voltage is present on Black/Yellow wire
when ignition switch is turned to RUN or ON position. This will verify proper operation of ignition switch.
2. If there is no voltage on Black/Yellow wire, the problem is either ignition switch or circuit between battery and ignition switch.
CLUTCH ENGAGE SWITCH (M/T) TEST
Unplug clutch engage switch from main wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity across switch terminals. Continuity should
exist when switch plunger is pushed in and should not exist when switch plunger is released. If clutch engage switch does not operate as
specified, replace switch.
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH (A/T) TEST
Unplug neutral safety switch from main wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity across switch terminals "A" and "B". See Fig.
2 . Place transmission shift selector in Park or Neutral position. Continuity should exist between terminals "A" and "B". Continuity should not
exist in any other transmission shift selector positions. If switch does nor operate as specified, replace switch.

Fig. 2: Identifying Neutral Safety Switch Terminals

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
1. Disconnect and ground coil wire from distributor cap to prevent engine from starting. Connect remote starter switch between starter
solenoid terminal "S" and battery positive terminal. See Fig. 3
.
2. Using a digital voltmeter set on low scale, connect positive voltmeter lead to battery positive terminal. Connect negative lead to starter
solenoid terminal "M". See Fig. 3
.
3. Engage remote starter switch. Observe and record voltmeter reading. Voltmeter reading should be less than .5 volt. If voltage at terminal
"M" is greater than .5 volt, move negative voltmeter lead to solenoid terminal "B", and repeat test.
4. If voltage at terminal "B" is less than .5 volt, inspect solenoid cable connections and solenoid contacts for problem.
5 . Cl ean so l en o id t ermin al s "B", "M" an d "S", an d rep eat st ep s 1 ) through 4). If voltmeter still reads greater than .5 volt at termin al "M"
and less than .5 volt at terminal "B", solenoid contacts are bad.
6. If voltmeter reads greater than .5 volt at terminal "B", clean cables and connections at solenoid. If voltmeter still reads greater than .5
volt, check for poor positive battery cable connection or bad cable. Repair or replace as necessary.
7. To locate excessive voltage drop, move negative voltmeter lead toward battery, and check each connection point. When high voltmeter
reading is no longer present, last connection point is bad.
NOTE:Make all voltm eter connections at com ponent term inal rather than at cable or wire end.
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Fig. 3: Testing Voltage Drop

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT TEST
1. Disconnect and ground coil wire from distributor cap to prevent engine from starting. Connect remote starter switch between starter
solenoid terminal "S" and battery positive terminal. See Fig. 1
.
2. Using a digital voltmeter set on low scale, connect positive voltmeter to starter motor housing. Ensure connection point is clean and free
of rust and grease. Connect negative voltmeter lead to negative battery terminal.
3. Engage remote starter switch and crank engine. Observe and record voltmeter reading. Voltmeter should read .2 volt or less. If voltage
drop is greater than .2 volt, clean negative battery cable connections at battery and body connections. Retest to ensure problem has been
corrected.
4. If voltage drop is still excessive, replace negative battery cable(s) as necessary. If battery cables test okay, and starter still cranks slowly
or not at all, remove and repair starter motor.
BENCH TESTING
STARTER NO-LOAD TEST
Remove starter. Place starter on bench. Connect a fully charged 12-volt battery, voltmeter, ammeter and remote starter switch to starter. See
Fig. 4
. Engage remote starter switch. Starter should rotate smoothly. Ensure voltage and amperage draw is less than maximum specification at
5000 RPM minimum. See NO-LOAD TEST SPECIFICATIONS table. If voltage and/or amperage is higher than specifications, disassemble
starter and determine cause.
NO-LOAD TEST SPECIFICATIONS
NOTE:Make all voltm eter connections at com ponent term inal rather than at cable or wire end.
ApplicationMaximum AmpsVolts
Capri & Festiva6011.5
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Fig. 4: Starter No
-Load Test
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
PINION GAP ADJUSTMENT TEST
1. Disconnect field lead from terminal "M" of solenoid to prevent starter from turning. See Fig. 5
. Connect jumper wire from a 12-volt
battery positive terminal to terminal "S" of solenoid. Connect another jumper wire from negative battery terminal to terminal "M" of
solenoid.
2. Solenoid should energize when battery is connected, kicking out drive pinion. With drive pinion extended, measure pinion gap between
drive pinion and collar. Gap should be .020-.080" (.5-2.0 mm). See Fig. 5
.
3. Add or subtract shims between solenoid and end housing to achieve proper pinion depth gap. Install field lead to terminal "M" of
solenoid. Install nut and tighten to 70-106 INCH lbs. (8-12 N.m).

Fig. 5: Measuring Pinion Gap

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
NOTE:DO NOT engage solenoid for m ore than 10 seconds. If test m ust be repeated, wait at least 3
m inutes between tests to allow solenoid to cool.
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FORD
1.3L 4-Cylinder
MANUFACTURER'S SUGGESTED SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE
For Aspire, the manufacturer recommends the belt be replaced every 60,000 miles on Federal vehicles, and 105,000 miles on California
vehicles. For Festiva, the manufacturer recommends the belt be replaced every 60,000 miles.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
TIMING BELT
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove accessory belts. Remove water pump pulley. Remove right inner fender panel to gain access
to crankshaft pulley. See Fig. 1
. Remove outer crankshaft pulley attaching bolts, then outer stiffener and spacer. Remove inner pulley
and baffle plate. Remove bolts retaining upper and lower cover halves to engine front. Remove both covers. See Fig. 2
.
2. Mark timing belt direction of rotation for installation reference. Remove timing belt tensioner pulley bolt. Remove tensioner pulley,
spring, and spring cover. Remove timing belt.
Installation
1. Ensure timing belt and sprockets are clean, and not worn or damaged. Align crankshaft and camshaft timing marks. See Fig. 3 . Position
belt onto sprockets in original running direction.
2. Install timing belt tensioner spring, spring cover, and pulley. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten all bolts and
nuts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
. Adjust drive belts to proper tension.

Fig. 1: Removing Right Inner Fender Panel

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. NOTE:Always rotate engine in direction of norm al operation. Rotating crankshaft backwards m ay cause
belt to jum p tim ing.
CAUT ION: Never twist, turn inside out, or bend tim ing belt. Keep belt away from grease and oil.
Page 1 of 3 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - FORD 1.3L 4-Cylinder
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IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE
IDLE MIXTURE
IDLE SPEED
1. Turn off all accessories. Place automatic transmission in Park or manual transmission in Neutral. Set parking brake. Connect tachometer
to engine. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Connect a jumper wire between single-wire STI test connector (Green on
Capri; Black on Festiva) and ground. See Fig. 1
.
2. Locate idle speed control by-pass air (ISC-BPA) valve on intake manifold. Remove cap, and adjust idle speed to specification by turning
idle air adjust screw on ISC-BPA valve. See Fig. 2
. Remove jumper wire.
IDLE RPM

Fig. 2: Locating Idle Air Adjust Screw

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
THROTTLE POSITION SWITCH (TP)
CAPRI
Throttle position sensor is preset at factory. No adjustment is required.
FESTIVA
1. Ensure idle speed and ignition timing are adjusted to specification. Stop engine. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Unplug TP connector at throttle body. Insert appropriate feeler gauge between throttle stop screw and stop lever. Check for continuity
between specified terminals on TP connector. See TP ADJUSTMENT table.
3. To adjust, loosen TP attaching screws. Connect ohmmeter between terminals IDL and TL. See Fig. 3
. Insert a .020" (.5 mm) feeler
gauge between throttle stop screw and stop lever.
4. Rotate TP until ohmmeter indicates continuity. Insert a .028" (.7 mm) thickness gauge between stop screw and stop lever. Ohmmeter
should indicate no continuity. If ohmmeter indicates continuity, repeat adjustment procedure.
ApplicationAuto. Trans.Man. Trans.
1.3L9-11 @ 8509-11 @ 700
1.6L Non-Turbo1-3 @ 8500-4 @ 850
1.6L Turbo10-14 @ 8500-4 @ 850
NOTE:Idle m ixture is controlled by ECA and is not adjustable.
ApplicationAuto. Trans.Man. Trans.
1.3L830-870680-720
1.6L800-900800-900
CAUT ION: DO NOT tam per with throttle stop screw at throttle lever. Doing so m ay result in dam age to throttle
body.
Page 2 of 3 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - D - ADJUSTMENTS 1991 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Ford/Mercury - On-Vehicle Adjustments
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