1991 BMW 5 SERIES electrical Windows

19After adjustment, screw the stop pads in
or out to support the bonnet in its new
position (see illustration).
20The bonnet mechanism should be
lubricated periodically with grease, to prevent
sticking or jamming.
11 Bumpers-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Detach the bumper cover (if applicable) and
where necessary the front spoiler.
2Disconnect any wiring or other components
that would interfere with bumper removal.
3Support the bumper with a jack or axle
stand. Alternatively, have an assistant support
the bumper as the bolts are removed.
4Remove the retaining bolts and detach the
bumper.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts securely, then refit the
bumper cover and any other components that
were removed.
12 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery, Refer to the
information on page 0-7 at the front of this
manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove all door trim panel retaining screws
and door pull/armrest assemblies.3On models with manual (non-electric)
windows, remove the window regulator
handle (see illustration). On models with
electric windows, prise off the control switch
assembly and unplug it.
4Disengage the trim panel-to-door retaining
clips. Work around the outer edge until the
panel is free.
5Once all of the clips are disengaged, detach
the trim panel, unplug any electrical
connectors, and remove the trim panel from
the vehicle.
6For access to the inner door, carefully peel
back the plastic water shield.
Refitting
7Prior to refitting the door trim panel, be sure
to renew any clips in the panel which may
have come out (or got broken) during the
removal procedure.
8Plug in the electrical connectors (where
applicable) and place the panel in position in
the door. Press the door panel into place until
the clips are seated, then refit the
armrest/door pulls. Refit the window regulator
handle, where applicable.
13 Door- removal, refitting and
adjustment
1
Removal
1Remove the door trim panel (see Section
12). Disconnect any electrical connectors, andpush them through the door opening so they
won’t interfere with door removal.
2Place a trolley jack or axle stand under the
door, or have an assistant on hand to support
it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: If a
jack or axle stand is used, place a rag between
it and the door, to protect the door’s painted
surfaces.
3Scribe or mark around the door hinges.
4Disconnect the door check strap by prising
the circlip out of the end of the pin, then slide
the pin out (see illustration). A roll pin is fitted
to some models; this is removed by driving it
out with a pin punch.
5Remove the hinge-to-door nuts, and
carefully lift off the door (see illustration).
Refitting and adjustment
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7Following refitting of the door, check the
alignment and adjust it if necessary as
follows:
a) Up-and-down and fore-and-aft
adjustments are made by loosening the
hinge-to-body nuts and moving the door
as necessary.
b) The door lock striker can also be adjusted
both up and down and sideways, to
provide positive engagement with the lock
mechanism. This is done by loosening the
mounting bolts and moving the striker as
necessary (see illustration).
14 Boot lid/tailgate- removal,
refitting and adjustment
1
Boot lid
1Open the boot lid, and cover the edges of
the boot compartment with pads or cloths to
protect the painted surfaces when the lid is
removed.
2Disconnect any cables or electrical
connectors attached to the boot lid that would
interfere with removal.
3Make alignment marks around the hinge
bolts (see illustration).
4Have an assistant support the lid, then
remove the lid-to-hinge bolts on both sides
and lift it off.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
13.7 The door lock striker position can be
adjusted after loosening the screws
(arrowed)13.5 Remove the nuts (arrowed) and
detach the door from the hinges
13.4 Detach the circlip (arrowed) from the
tapered end of the pin12.3 On models without electric windows,
prise off the window regulator handle trim
piece for access to the retaining screw

15 Latch, lock cylinder and
handles- removal, refitting
and adjustment
1
1Remove the trim panel(s) and, on the door,
the plastic shield (see Section 12).
Latch
2Disconnect the operating rods from the
latch (see illustration).
3Remove the latch retaining screws.
4Detach the latch assembly and withdraw it.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Lock cylinder
6Detach the linkage.
7Use a screwdriver to slide the retaining clip
off, and withdraw the lock cylinder.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Interior handle
9Disconnect the operating rod from the
handle.
10Remove the retaining screws and lift the
handle from the door.
11Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Exterior handle
12Lift up the handle for access, remove the
two retaining screws, then detach the handle
from the door.
13Refitting is the reverse of removal.
16 Door window glass-
removal and refitting
3
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove the door trim panel and the plastic
water shield (see Section 12).
3Prise the door inner and outer weatherstrips
from the door.
Front door
4Raise the window so that the mounting
bolts can be reached through the access hole.
If electric windows are fitted, temporarily
reconnect the battery cable to accomplish
this.
5Support the glass, and remove the retaining
bolts securing the glass to the regulator.
6Lift the window glass up and out of the door
window slot, then tilt it and remove it from the
door.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Rear door
8Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 1 to 5.
3-Series models
9Disengage the glass from the front guide
roller, and prise out the rubber window
guides.
10Remove the door handle screws, and
allow the handle assembly to hang out of the
way.
11Remove the rear window frame bolts,
push the frame into the door, and remove the
window glass.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5-Series models
13Loosen the rear window guide mounting
bolt.14Detach the glass from the front guide
roller, disengage the glass from the guide
rails, then slide the glass to the rear and
remove by lifting from above.
15The fixed glass can be removed by
removing the guide rail bolts, then pulling the
rail down to the rear and detaching the glass.
16Refitting is the reverse of removal. The
rear window glass can be adjusted by
loosening the adjustment bolts, then raising
the glass to within one inch of the top of the
door opening. Adjust the glass-to-
opening gap evenly, then tighten the bolts
securely.
17 Door window regulator-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the door window glass (Sec-
tion 16).
2Remove the securing bolts or nuts, and lift
the window regulator assembly out of the
door (withdraw the regulator mechanism
through the access hole). On models with
electric windows, unplug the electrical
connector.
Refitting
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
18 Exterior mirror-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1If it is required to renew the mirror glass
only, insert a small screwdriver through the
hole in the bottom of the exterior mirror, and
carefully lever clockwise the plastic holder on
the rear of the glass (ie move the bottom of
the screwdriver to the right). This will release
the glass, which can then be withdrawn. If
electric mirrors are fitted, it will be necessary
to disconnect the wiring before completely
removing the glass.
2To remove the complete mirror, prise off
the cover panel (and/or the tweeter speaker,
where applicable).
3Unplug the electrical connector.
4Remove the retaining screws and lift the
mirror off
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
15.2 Typical door latch, lock cylinder and
handle details
14.14 Unscrewing the hinge mounting
bolts (5-Series)

12
Chapter 12 Body electrical systems
Bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Central locking system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Cruise control system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Direction indicator/hazard warning flasher - check and renewal . . . 5
Electric windows - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Electrical system fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Headlights - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Headlights - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Heated rear window - check and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Ignition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Radio - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Service Indicator (SI) board - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Steering column switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) - general information . . . . . . 18
Windscreen/tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 16
Wiring diagrams - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents
1 General information
The chassis electrical system of this vehicle
is of 12-volt, negative earth type. Power for
the lights and all electrical accessories is
supplied by a lead/acid-type battery, which is
charged by the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for various chassis (non-engine
related) electrical components. For
information regarding the engine electrical
system components (battery, alternator,
distributor and starter motor), see Chapter 5.
Warning: To prevent electrical
short-circuits, fires and injury,
always disconnect the battery
negative terminal before
checking, repairing or renewing electrical
components.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
2 Electrical system fault
finding- general information
2
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers,
etc related to that component, and the wiring
and connectors that link the components to
both the battery and the chassis. To help you
pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring
diagrams are included at the end of this book.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what makes up that individual circuit.
Troublespots, for instance, can often be
isolated by noting if other components related
to that circuit are routed through the same
fuse and earth connections.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes such as loose or corroded
connectors, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link, or a bad relay. Inspect all fuses, wires
and connectors in a problem circuit first.
The basic tools needed include a circuit
tester, a high-impedance digital voltmeter, a
continuity tester and a jumper wire with an in-
line circuit breaker for bypassing electrical
components. Before attempting to locate or
define a problem with electrical testinstruments, use the wiring diagrams to
decide where to make the necessary
connections.
Voltage checks
Perform a voltage check first when a circuit
is not functioning properly. Connect one lead
of a circuit tester to either the negative battery
terminal or a known good earth.
Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester
lights up, voltage is present, which means that
the part of the circuit between the connector
and the battery is problem-free. Continue
checking the rest of the circuit in the same
fashion.
When you reach a point at which no voltage
is present, the problem lies between that point
and the last test point with voltage. Most of
the time, problems can be traced to a loose
connection.Note:Keep in mind that some
circuits receive voltage only when the ignition
key is turned to a certain position.
Electrical fault diagnosis is simple if you
keep in mind that all electrical circuits are
basically electricity running from the battery,
through the wires, switches, relays, fuses and
fusible links to each electrical component
(light bulb, motor, etc) and then to earth, from
where it is passed back to the battery. Any
electrical problem is an interruption in the flow
of electricity to and from the battery.

BK Black
BL Blue
BR BrownGE Yellow
GN Green
GR Green or GreyGY Grey
OR Orange
PK PinkR Red
RS Pink
RT RedSW Black
TN Tan
V VioletVI Violet
W WhiteWS White
Y Yellow
Body electrical systems 12•9
12
Colour codes bent or damaged. The actuator can be
checked by applying battery power
momentarily. A discernible click indicates
that the solenoid is operating properly.
21 Electric window system-
description and check
2
The electric window system operates the
electric motors mounted in the doors which
lower and raise the windows. The system
consists of the control switches, the motors,
window mechanisms (regulators) andassociated wiring. Removal of the motors and
regulators is described in Chapter 11.
Diagnosis is usually limited to simple
checks of the wiring connections and motors
for minor faults which can be easily repaired.
These include:
a) Check the electric window switches for
broken wires and loose connections.
b) Check the electric window fuse/and or
circuit breaker (where applicable).
c) Remove the door trim panel(s) and check
the electric window motor wires to see if
they’re loose or damaged. Inspect the
window mechanisms for damage which
could cause binding.
22 Wiring diagrams-
general information
Since it isn’t possible to include all wiring
diagrams for every model year covered by this
manual, the following diagrams are those that
are typical and most commonly needed.
Prior to checking any circuit, check the
fuses and circuit breakers to make sure they’re
in good condition. Make sure the battery is
fully charged and check the cable connections
(see Chapter 1). Make sure all connectors are
clean, with no broken or loose terminals.

REF•18Automotive chemicals and lubricants
A number of automotive chemicals and
lubricants are available for use during vehicle
maintenance and repair. They include a wide
variety of products ranging from cleaning
solvents and degreasers to lubricants and
protective sprays for rubber, plastic and
vinyl.
Cleaners
Carburettor cleaner and choke cleaner
is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and
carbon. Most carburettor cleaners leave a
dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or
gum up. Because of this film, it is not
recommended for use on electrical
components.
Brake system cleaneris used to remove
grease and brake fluid from the brake system,
where clean surfaces are absolutely
necessary. It leaves no residue, and often
eliminates brake squeal caused by
contaminants.
Electrical cleaner removes oxidation,
corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical
contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also
be used to clean spark plugs, carburettor jets,
voltage regulators and other parts where an
oil-free surface is desired.
Moisture dispersantsremove water and
moisture from electrical components such as
alternators, voltage regulators, electrical
connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-
conductive and non-corrosive.
Degreasersare heavy-duty solvents used
to remove grease from the outside of the
engine and from chassis components. They
can be sprayed or brushed on, and are usually
rinsed off with water.
Lubricants
Engine oilis the lubricant formulated for
use in engines. It normally contains a wide
variety of additives to prevent corrosion and
reduce foaming and wear. Engine oil comes in
various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to
60. The recommended weight of the oil
depends on the season, temperature and the
demands on the engine. Light oil is used in
cold climates and under light load conditions.
Heavy oil is used in hot climates, and where
high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity
(multigrade) oils are designed to have
characteristics of both light and heavy oils,
and are available in a number of weights from
5W-20 to 20W-50.
Gear oilis designed to be used in
differentials, manual transmissions and other
areas where high-temperature lubrication is
required.
Chassis and wheel bearing greaseis a
heavy grease used where increased loads and
friction are encountered, such as for wheel
bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal
joints.High-temperature wheel bearing grease
is designed to withstand the extreme
temperatures encountered by wheel bearings
in disc brake-equipped vehicles. It usually
contains molybdenum disulphide (moly),
which is a dry-type lubricant.
White greaseis a heavy grease for metal-
to-metal applications where water is a
problem. White grease stays soft at both low
and high temperatures, and will not wash off
or dilute in the presence of water.
Assembly lubeis a special extreme-
pressure lubricant, usually containing moly,
used to lubricate high-load parts (such as
main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for
initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly
lube lubricates the parts without being
squeezed out or washed away until the engine
oiling system begins to function.
Silicone lubricants are used to protect
rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.
Graphite lubricantsare used where oils
cannot be used due to contamination
problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite
will lubricate metal parts while remaining
uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It
is electrically conductive, and will not foul
electrical contacts in locks such as the
ignition switch.
Penetrating oilsloosen and lubricate
frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and
prevent future rusting or freezing.
Heat-sink greaseis a special electrically
non-conductive grease that is used for
mounting electronic ignition modules where it
is essential that heat is transferred away from
the module.
Sealants
RTV sealantis one of the most widely-
used gasket compounds. Made from silicone,
RTV is air-curing; it seals, bonds, waterproofs,
fills surface irregularities, remains flexible,
doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove,
and is used as a supplementary sealer with
almost all low- and medium-temperature
gaskets.
Anaerobic sealantis much like RTV in that
it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form
gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent-
resistant, and fills surface imperfections. The
difference between an anaerobic sealant and
an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV
cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic
sealant cures only in the absence of air. This
means that an anaerobic sealant cures only
after the assembly of parts, sealing them
together.
Thread and pipe sealant is used for
sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and
vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon
compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on
liquid and as a wrap-around tape.
Chemicals
Anti-seize compoundprevents seizing,
chafing, cold welding, rust and corrosion in
fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize,
usually made with copper and graphite
lubricants, is used for exhaust system and
exhaust manifold bolts.
Anaerobic locking compoundsare used
to keep fasteners from vibrating or working
loose, and cure only after installation, in the
absence of air. Medium-strength locking
compound is used for small nuts, bolts and
screws that may be removed later. High-
strength locking compound is for large nuts,
bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a
regular basis.
Oil additivesrange from viscosity index
improvers to chemical treatments that claim
to reduce internal engine friction. It should be
noted that most oil manufacturers caution
against using additives with their oils.
Fuel additivesperform several functions,
depending on their chemical make-up. They
usually contain solvents that help dissolve
gum and varnish that build up on carburettor,
fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve
to break down carbon deposits that form on
the inside surfaces of the combustion
chambers. Some additives contain upper
cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings,
and others contain chemicals to remove
condensation from the fuel tank.
Miscellaneous
Brake fluidis specially-formulated
hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and
pressure encountered in brake systems. It is
poisonous and inflammable. Care must be
taken so this fluid does not come in contact
with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened
container should always be resealed, to
prevent contamination by water or dirt. Brake
fluid absorbs moisture from the air, if left in an
unsealed container.
Weatherstrip adhesiveis used to bond
weatherstripping around doors, windows and
boot lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim
pieces.
Undersealis a petroleum-based, tar-like
substance that is designed to protect metal
surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from
corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening
agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle.
Waxes and polishesare used to help
protect painted and plated surfaces from the
weather. Different types of paint may require
the use of different types of wax and polish.
Some polishes utilise a chemical or abrasive
cleaner to help remove the top layer of
oxidised (dull) paint on older vehicles. In
recent years, many non-wax polishes
containing a wide variety of chemicals such as
polymers and silicones have been introduced.
These non-wax polishes are usually easier to
apply, and last longer than conventional
waxes and polishes.

REF•26Index
E
Earth check - 12•2
Electric fan - 3•4
Electric shock - 0•5
Electric windows - 12•9
Electrical equipment - REF•2
Electrical system fault finding - 12•1
Electronic control system - 4•3, 4•14
Electronic control unit (ECU) - 6•1
Engine fault finding - REF•10
Engine tune-up - 1•7
Engine electrical systems- 5•1et seq
Engine electrical systems fault finding -
REF•11
Engine management and emission control
systems- 6•1et seq
Engine oil - 1•3, 1•7, 1•11
Environmental considerations - REF•8
Evaporative emissions control (EVAP)
system - 1•26, 6•5
Evaporator - 3•10
Exhaust emission checks - REF•4
Exhaust manifold - 2A•6
Exhaust system - 1•21, 4•20, REF•3
F
Fan - 3•4, 3•5
Fault finding- REF•9et seq
Fault finding - automatic transmission -
7B•2, REF•13
Fault finding - braking system - REF•14
Fault finding - clutch - REF•12
Fault finding - cooling system - REF•12
Fault finding - electrical system - 12•1,
REF•11
Fault finding - engine - REF•10
Fault finding - fuel system - 4•21, REF•12
Fault finding - manual transmission -
REF•13
Fault finding - suspension and steering -
REF•15
Filling - 11•3
Final drive - 8•2, 8•10, 8•11
Final drive oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•26
Fire - 0•5
Flexible coupling - 8•7
Fluid level checks - 1•7
Fluid seals - 7B•5
Flywheel - 2A•18
Fuel and exhaust systems- 1•20, 4•1et
seq,REF•4
Fuel system fault finding - REF•12
Fuel filter - 1•25
Fuel hoses - 1•14
Fuel injection system - 4•3, 4•14
Fuel injection system - fault finding - 4•21
Fuel injectors - 4•18
Fuel level sender unit - 4•5, 4•6
Fuel lines and fittings - 4•7
Fuel pressure - 4•3
Fuel pressure regulator - 4•16
Fuel pump - 4•3, 4•4, 4•5
Fuel tank - 4•7, 4•8
Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5
Fuses - 12•2
G
Gaiters - 1•22, 8•9, 10•13
Gashes in bodywork - 11•2
Gaskets - REF•8
Gear lever - 7A•1
Gearbox - SeeManual transmission
Gearbox oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
General engine overhaul procedures-
2B•1et seq
Glass - 11•4, 11•8
Glossary of technical terms - REF•20
Grille - 11•4
H
Handbrake - 1•23, 9•2, 9•12, REF•1
Handbrake fault - REF•14
Handles - 11•8
Hazard warning flasher - 12•2
HC emissions - REF•4
Headlights - 12•3, 12•5, 12•6
Heated rear window - 12•8
Heater - 3•2, 3•7, 3•8
Hinges - 11•4
HT leads - 1•18
Hubs - 10•8, 10•11, REF•3
Hydraulic servo - 9•11
Hydraulic tappets - 2B•11
Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5
I
Idle air stabiliser valve - 4•18
Idle speed adjustment - 1•15
Ignition coil - 5•5
Ignition control unit - 5•6, 5•7
Ignition sensors - 5•8
Ignition switch - 12•3
Ignition system - 5•3
Ignition timing - 5•4
Ignition timing sensors - 6•4
Impulse generator - 5•6, 5•7
In-car engine repair procedures- 2A•1et
seq
Indicators - 12•2, 12•3
Information sensors - 6•2
Injectors - 4•18
Input shaft - 7A•2
Instrument cluster - 12•4
Instrument panel language display - 0•7
Intake manifold - 2A•4
Intermediate shaft - 2A•12, 2B•14, 2B•19
Introduction to the BMW 3- and 5-Series -
0•4
J
Jacking - 0•8
Joint mating faces - REF•8
Jump starting - 0•9
K
Kickdown cable - 7B•3
L
L-Jetronic fuel injection system - 4•14,
4•19
Language display - 0•7
Latch - 11•8
Leaks - 0•10, 7B•3, REF•12, REF•13
Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•8
Locks - 11•4, 11•8
Lubricants - REF•18
M
Main bearings - 2B•17, 2B•19
Manifolds - 2A•4, 2A•6
Manual transmission- 7A•1et seq
Manual transmission fault finding - REF•13
Manual transmission oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
Master cylinder - 8•3, 9•9
Mechanical fan - 3•4, 3•5
Mirrors - 11•8, REF•1
Misfire - REF•11
Mixture - REF•4
MOT test checks- REF•1 et seq
Motronic engine management system -
6•1
Motronic fuel injection system - 4•14, 4•19
Mountings - 2A•19, 7A•3
O
Oil - differential - 1•19, 1•26
Oil - engine - 1•3, 1•7, 1•11
Oil - final drive - 1•3
Oil - manual transmission - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
Oil filter - 1•11, 1•12
Oil pump - 2A•16
Oil seals - 2A•12, 2A•13, 2A•19, 2B•20,
7A•2, 7B•5, 8•10, 8•12, REF•8
Open-circuit - 12•2
Output shaft - 7A•2, 7B•5
Overcooling - REF•12
Overheating - REF•12
Oxygen sensor - 6•2
P
Pads - 9•2, 9•3
Pedals - 8•3, 9•13
Pinion oil - 8•12
Pinking - REF•11
Piston rings - 2B•18
Pistons - 2B•12, 2B•16, 2B•21
Plastic components - 11•3
Poisonous or irritant substances - 0•5
Position sensors - 5•8
Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)
system - 6•4
Power steering - 1•14, 10•15, 10•16
Power steering fluid - 1•12
Propeller shaft - 8•2, 8•6, 8•8
Pulse sensor - 5•8
Purge valve - 6•5