1990 FORD SIERRA length

22Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, and
jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on
axle stands. Remove the roadwheel and
release the handbrake.
23Unbolt the brake caliper carrier bracket
and support the caliper on an axle stand,
taking care not to strain the flexible hose.
24Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and remove the disc.
25Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller, pull off the drive flange.
26Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield,
whilst supporting the driveshaft. Support the
driveshaft by placing axle stands underneath
it, or by securing with string to the underbody.
Avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
27With the hub carrier removed, the
bearings can be renewed as described in
paragraphs 10 to 16 of this Section.
28Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then using a
soft-faced mallet, drive the drive flange/hub
carrier assembly onto the end of the stub axle.
Do not forget to fit the splash shield.
29Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
30Refit the hub carrier/splash
shield-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
31When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and drive
flange.
32Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel.
P100 models
Note: A new rear hub nut must be used on
reassembly.
33Remove the relevant driveshaft.
34Relieve the staking on the rear hub nut,
and using a 50 mm socket and an extension
bar, unscrew the nut. Note that the nut is
extremely tight.
35Pull off the hub, and remove the O-ring
and spacer sleeve from the recess in the hub
(see illustration).
36Prise the oil seal from the rear of the hub
using a screwdriver.
37Using a block of wood, or a suitable metal
tube inserted from the rear of the hub, tap out
the ball-bearing.
38Clean the hub with paraffin, wipe dry and
examine for damage and wear.
39Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
resting on the bearing outer race only, tap the
new bearing into the hub. Ensure that the
bearing is correctly seated.
40Carefully fit a new oil seal to the rear of the
hub, using a suitable metal tube.41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Fit a new rear hub nut, and stake in
position after tightening to the specified
torque.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the relevant front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.
3Using a length of wood, lever the
suspension crossmember downwards a few
inches from the underbody, and insert the
wood as a wedge.
4Using a tool similar to the Ford special tool
shown (see illustration), or a long bolt with
nut, washers and a suitable metal tube, pull
the mounting rubber from the crossmember.
5Lubricate the new mounting rubber with
soapy water, and use the tool described in the
previous paragraph to press the rubber into
the crossmember.
6Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).Note: From May 1986, revised rear
suspension/final drive unit rear mounting bolts
have been used in production. Whenever the
earlier type of bolts are removed, they should
be discarded and the later type fitted. The
earlier bolts are coloured blue, and the later
type bolts are coloured gold.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
3Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the mounting to the underbody. Note
the location and number of any shims which
may be fitted.
4Lower the final drive unit sufficiently to
enable the mounting to be unbolted from the
final drive unit rear cover (see illustration).
16Rear suspension/final drive
unit rear mounting (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal
15Rear suspension front
mounting (Saloon, Hatchback
and Estate models) - renewal
11•12Suspension and steering
15.4 Ford special tool 15-014 for removing
rear suspension front mounting rubber
14.35 Rear hub components - P100 models
A Oil seal
B Hub
C Ball-bearingD Hub nut
E Spacer sleeve
F O-ring
16.4 Rear suspension/final drive unit rear
mounting-to-final drive unit rear cover
bolts

4Extract the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut (see illustration).
5Using a balljoint separator tool, release the
tie-rod end from the hub carrier (see
illustration).
6Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod,
noting the number of turns necessary to
remove it.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
8Screw the tie-rod end onto the tie-rod the
number of turns noted during removal.
9Tighten the nuts to the specified torque,
and fit a new split pin to the castellated nut.
10On P100 models, align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.
11On completion, check and if necessary
adjust the front wheel alignment.
1Front wheel alignment is defined by
camber, castor steering axis inclination and
toe setting. The first three factors are
determined in production; only toe can be
adjusted in service. Incorrect toe will cause
rapid tyre wear.
2Toe is defined as the amount by which the
distance between the front wheels, measured
at hub height, differs from the front edges tothe rear edges. If the distance between the
front edges is less than that at the rear, the
wheels are said to toe-in; the opposite case is
known as toe-out.
3To measure toe, it will be necessary to
obtain or make a tracking gauge. These are
available in motor accessory shops, or one
can be made from a length of rigid pipe or bar
with some kind of threaded adjustment facility
at one end. Many tyre specialists will also
check toe free, or for a nominal sum.
4Before measuring toe, check that all
steering and suspension components are
undamaged and that tyre pressures are
correct. The vehicle must be at approximately
kerb weight, with the spare wheel and jack in
their normal positions and any abnormal loads
removed.
5Park the vehicle on level ground and
bounce it a few times to settle the suspension.
6Use the tracking gauge to measure the
distance between the inside faces of the front
wheel rims, at hub height, at the rear of the
front wheels. Record this distance; call it
measurement “Y” (see illustration).7Push the vehicle forwards or backwards so
that the wheels rotate exactly 180º (half a
turn). Measure the distance between the front
wheel rims again, this time at the front of the
wheels. Record this distance; call it
measurement “X”.
8Subtract measurement “X” from
measurement “Y”. If the answer is positive it is
the amount of toe-in; if negative it is the
amount of toe-out. Permissible values are
given in the Specifications.
9If adjustment is necessary loosen the
tie-rod end locknuts and the outer bellows
clips, then rotate each tie-rod by equal
amounts until the setting is correct. Hold the
tie-rod ends in their horizontal position with a
spanner while making the adjustment.
10Tighten the locknuts and outer bellows
clips.
11Provided the tie-rods have been adjusted
by equal amounts the steering wheel should
be central when moving straight-ahead. The
amount of visible thread on each tie-rod
should also be equal. If necessary refer to
Section 23.
34Front wheel alignment
- checking and adjusting
Suspension and steering 11•19
11
34.6 Front wheel alignment
A CamberB CastorC Toe setting
For X and Y, see text
33.5 Using a balljoint separator tool to
release the tie-rod end from the hub
carrier
33.4 Extracting the split pin from the tie-
rod balljoint castellated nut