1990 BMW 5 SERIES torque

friction surfaces of the brake shoes or
drums.
12Make sure the adjuster assembly is
properly engaged with its respective notch in
the handbrake lever.
13When refitting the automatic adjustment
mechanism, fit the lever on the shoe first (see
illustration), then hook the lower end of the
spring onto the lever and the upper end into
its hole in the front shoe (see illustration).
14When you’re done, the brake assembly
should look like this (see illustration). Now
proceed to the other brake.
15When you’re done with both brakes, refit
the brake drums.
16If the wheel cylinder was renewed (see
Note 2), bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 16.
17Depress the brake pedal repeatedly to
actuate the self-adjusting mechanism. A
clicking sound will be heard from the brake
drums as the adjusters take up the slack.
18Check the handbrake adjustment (Sec-
tion 11).
19Refit the wheels and bolts. Lower the
vehicle to the ground, and tighten the wheel
bolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1
Specifications. Check the operation of the
brakes carefully before driving the vehicle in
traffic.
7 Master cylinder-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Note: Although master cylinder parts and
overhaul kits are available for most models, we
recommend fitting a new or overhauled
master cylinder complete. It will take you more
time to overhaul the master cylinder than to
renew it, and you can’t even determine
whether the master cylinder is in good enough
condition to overhaul it until you have
dismantled it. You may very well find that itcan’t be overhauled because of its internal
condition.
Removal
1The master cylinder is connected to the
brake vacuum servo, and both are attached to
the bulkhead, located on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment (see illustration).
2Remove as much fluid as you can from the
reservoir with a syringe.
3Place rags under the line fittings, and
prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the
ends of the lines once they are disconnected.
Caution: Brake fluid will damage
paint. Cover all body parts, and
be careful not to spill fluid during
this procedure.
4Loosen the union nuts at the ends of the
brake lines where they enter the master
cylinder. To prevent rounding off the flats on
these nuts, a split ring (“brake”) spanner,
which wraps around the nut, should be used.
5Pull the brake lines away from the master
cylinder slightly, and plug the ends to prevent
dirt contamination and further fluid loss.
6Disconnect any electrical connectors at the
master cylinder, then remove the nutsattaching the master cylinder to the brake
servo. Pull the master cylinder off the studs,
and lift it out of the engine compartment.
Again, be careful not to spill fluid as this is
done. Discard the old O-ring (see illustration)
between the master cylinder and the servo
unit.
Warning: The O-ring should
always be renewed. A faulty O-
ring can cause a vacuum leak,
which can reduce braking performance
and cause an erratic idle.
Bleeding procedure
7Before fitting a new or overhauled master
cylinder, it should be bled on the bench.
Because it will be necessary to apply pressure
to the master cylinder piston and, at the same
time, control flow from the brake line outlets, it
is recommended that the master cylinder be
mounted in a vice. Use a vice with protected
jaws, and don’t clamp the vice too tightly, or
the master cylinder body might crack.
8Insert threaded plugs into the brake line
outlet holes. Tighten them down so that there
will be no air leakage past them, but not so
tight that they cannot be easily loosened.
9Fill the reservoir with brake fluid of the
recommended type (see “Lubricants, fluids
and capacities” in Chapter 1).
10Remove one plug, and push the piston
assembly into the master cylinder bore to
Braking system 9•9
6.14 When you get everything back
together, this is how it
should look! 6.13b . . . then hook the lower end of the
spring onto the lever as shown; stretch the
spring, and hook the upper end into its
hole in the handbrake shoe6.13a Refit the automatic adjuster lever
first - make sure it’s properly engaged with
the notch in the front end of the
adjuster mechanism . . .
7.6 Always renew the O-ring (1) - groove
arrowed - between the master cylinder and
the brake servo
7.1 To remove the master cylinder, unplug
the electrical connector (top arrow),
disconnect the brake fluid hydraulic line
fittings (lower right arrow, other fitting not
visible in this photo) and remove the two
master cylinder mounting nuts (lower left
arrow, other nut not visible in this photo) -
5-Series master cylinder shown, 3-Series
similar
9

expel the air from the master cylinder. A large
Phillips screwdriver can be used to push on
the piston assembly.
11To prevent air from being drawn back into
the master cylinder, the plug must be refitted
and tightened down before releasing the
pressure on the piston assembly.
12Repeat the procedure until brake fluid free
of air bubbles is expelled from the brake line
outlet hole. Repeat the procedure with the
other outlet hole and plug. Be sure to keep the
master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid, to prevent the introduction of air into the
system.
13High pressure is not involved in the bench
bleeding procedure, so the plugs described
above need not be refitted each time the
piston is released, if wished. Instead, before
releasing the piston, simply put your finger
tightly over the hole to keep air from being
drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait
several seconds for brake fluid to be drawn
from the reservoir into the piston bore, then
depress the piston again, removing your
finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put
your finger back over the hole each time
before releasing the piston, and when the
bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet,
refit the plug and tighten it up before going on
to the other port.
Refitting
14Refit the master cylinder (together with a
new O-ring) over the studs on the brake servo,
and tighten the mounting nuts only finger-tight
at this time.
15Thread the brake line fittings into the
master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is
still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly in
order for the fittings to thread in easily. Do not
strip the threads as the fittings are tightened.
16Tighten the brake fittings securely, and
the mounting nuts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
17Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid,
then bleed the master cylinder (only if the
cylinder has not already been bled) and the
brake system as described in Section 16.
18To bleed the cylinder on the vehicle, have
an assistant pump the brake pedal severaltimes and then hold the pedal to the floor.
Loosen the fitting nut to allow air and fluid to
escape, then tighten the nut. Repeat this
procedure on both fittings until the fluid is
clear of air bubbles. Test the operation of the
brake system carefully before returning the
vehicle to normal service.
8 Brake vacuum servo-
check, removal and refitting
3
Operating check
1Depress the brake pedal several times with
the engine off, until there is no change in the
pedal travel.
2Depress and hold the pedal, then start the
engine. If the pedal goes down slightly,
operation is normal.
Airtightness check
3Start the engine, and turn it off after one or
two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several
times slowly. If the pedal goes down further
the first time but gradually rises after the
second or third depression, the servo is
airtight.
4Depress the brake pedal while the engine is
running, then stop the engine with the pedal
depressed. If there is no change in the pedal
travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds,
the servo is airtight.
Removal and refitting
5Dismantling the vacuum servo requires
special tools, and cannot be performed by the
home mechanic. If a problem develops, it is
recommended that a new unit be fitted.
6Remove the master cylinder as described in
Section 7.
7Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
brake servo.
8Working in the passenger compartment,
remove the glovebox and lower left-hand trim
panels.
9Remove the clip and clevis pin to
disconnect the pushrod from the cross-shaft
lever (right-hand-drive models) or brake pedal(left-hand-drive models) (see illustration). On
left-hand-drive models, also disconnect the
brake pedal return spring.
10Remove the four mounting nuts (see
illustration)and withdraw the servo unit from
the engine compartment.
11Inspect the small foam filter (see
illustration)inside the rubber boot on the
pushrod. If the filter is clogged, it may affect
the servo’s performance. To clean the filter,
wash it in a mild soapy solution. If it’s still
dirty, renew it.
12Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the brake servo mounting
nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Before you slide the boot into
place over the servo pushrod air filter, make
sure the notches in the filter offset the notches
in the damper by 180 degrees.
13On 3-Series models, adjust the basic
setting of the pushrod’s threaded clevis until
the dimension is correct (see illustration).
When the basic setting is correct, tighten the
locknut, then adjust the brake pedal travel and
9•10 Braking system
8.13 On 3-Series models, adjust
dimension A (the distance between the
middle of the brake lever and the
bulkhead/”firewall”) by loosening the
locknut (1) at the pushrod clevis (2) and
turning the threaded part of the pushrod
until dimension A matches the dimension
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
When the basic setting is correct, tighten
the locknut, then adjust the brake pedal
height and the stop-light switch
8.11 An exploded view of a typical servo
pushrod assembly
1 Boot 2 Holder 3 Damper 4 Air filter8.10 Remove the four mounting nuts
(arrows) and withdraw the servo unit from
the engine compartment
(left-hand-drive model shown)
8.9 Disconnect the brake pedal return
spring, then remove the clip and clevis pin
(arrows) to disconnect the pushrod from
the brake pedal (left-hand-drive models)

the stop-light switch (see Section 13). Note:
On right-hand-drive models, the brake pedal
in on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and is
connected to the left-hand side by a cross-
shaft. The adjustment is carried out on the
pushrod at the left-hand side, but the
dimension is measured at the pedal on the
right-hand side.
14On 5-Series models, adjust the brake
pedal height and the stop-light switch (see
Section 13).
15Refit the master cylinder (see Section 7)
and attach the vacuum hose.
16Carefully test the operation of the brakes
before returning the vehicle to normal use
9 Hydraulic brake servo-
description, removal and
refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Description
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, a
hydraulic brake servo system is fitted. The
servo unit, located between the brake pedal
(left-hand-drive) or cross-shaft lever (right-
hand-drive) and the master cylinder, is
operated by hydraulic pressure generated by
the power steering pump. When the engine is
running, the power steering pump supplies
hydraulic pressure to a power flow regulator/
accumulator. The regulator/accumulator
stores and regulates the pressure to the
hydraulic brake servo. When you press the
brake pedal, the pressure in the servo helps
actuate the master cylinder, reducing pedal
effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo cannot be
overhauled; if it fails, a new one must be fitted.
Testing the system requires special tools, so
even fault diagnosis is beyond the scope of
the home mechanic. If the system fails, take it
to a dealer service department or other
qualified garage for repairs.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
20 times or more.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 7).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply line fittings, then disconnect them.
Plug the lines, to prevent dirt from entering the
system, and to prevent further fluid loss.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt
can damage the servo, so be
extremely careful to prevent dirt
from entering the system while
the lines are disconnected.
6Working from inside the passenger
compartment, remove the lower left trim
panels above the brake pedal (left-hand-drive
models) or glovebox and trim (right-hand-drive models). On left-hand-drive models, also
disconnect the pedal return spring.
7Prise off the retaining clip, and disconnect
the pushrod from the brake pedal (see
illustration 8.9) or cross-shaft lever.
8Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illus-
tration 8.10).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic lines to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Note:Don’t try to
tighten these fittings without a torque wrench.
If they’re loose, they can leak, which can affect
system operation; if they’re tight, they can be
damaged, and they’ll also leak. You’ll need a
crowfoot-type split ring (“brake”) attachment
for your torque wrench to tighten the fittings
properly.
10When you’re done, bleed the brake
hydraulic system (Section 16) and adjust the
brake pedal travel and the stop-light switch
(see Section 13).
10 Handbrake cable(s)- renewal
2
1Peel back the boot at the base of the
handbrake lever, and remove the handbrake
cable adjusting nut (see illustration)which
also secures the cable to the handbrake lever.There are two cables - one for each rear wheel
- and a nut for each cable. On some models, it
may be necessary to remove the centre
console completely for access.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the rear brake drum (see Section 6)
or rear brake disc (see Section 5).
4On rear drum models, unhook the
handbrake cable from the lever on the rear
brake shoe (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, remove the handbrake shoes and the
actuator (see Section 12) and unhook the
handbrake cable from the actuator (see
illustrations).
5On rear drum models, pull the cable and
cable conduit (tube) out of the back of the
brake backplate, then detach the cable
conduit from the cable clips on the back of
the trailing arm (it’s easier to pull out the old
cable, and fit the new cable, with the conduit
straight instead of curved). On rear disc
models, it’s unnecessary to detach the cable
conduit from the brake backplate, but it’s a
good idea to detach the conduit from the clips
and guides securing it to the trailing arm, to
take some of the bend out of the conduit.
6Working from the wheel end of the cable
conduit, pull the cable out of the conduit (see
illustration).
7Lubricate the new cable with multi-purpose
grease, then insert it into the cable conduit
Braking system 9•11
10.1 Peel back the handbrake lever boot
and remove the relevant handbrake cable
adjusting nut (both arrowed)
10.6 Pull the cable out of its conduit;
before you refit the new cable, be sure to
lubricate it with multi-purpose grease10.4b . . . then remove the pin securing the
cable to the inner cam, and remove the
inner cam
10.4a To detach the handbrake cable from
the handbrake actuator on models with rear
disc brakes, pull on the outer cam and
disconnect it from the inner cam . . .
9

and push it through until the forward end
comes out at the handbrake lever.
8Insert the cable conduit through the
backplate, and attach the rear end of the
cable to the handbrake lever (rear drum
models) or the actuator (rear disc models).
Make sure you don’t kink the cable while
connecting it.
9Refit the cable conduit to the clips on the
back of the trailing arm.
10On rear drum models, refit the brake
shoes and drum (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, refit the handbrake shoes and
actuator (see Section 12) and the rear brake
disc (see Section 5).
11Lower the vehicle, and refit the adjusting
nut at the handbrake lever. Adjust the
handbrake cable (see Section 11) and refit the
handbrake lever boot.
11 Handbrake- adjustment
2
Rear drum brake models
Note:Adjustment of the handbrake cable(s)
on models with rear drum brakes should only
be necessary when you renew a cable or
detach if from the rear brake assembly for
some reason. Failure of the handbrake system
to hold the vehicle usually indicates worn
brake shoes or a faulty self-adjusting
mechanism.
1Raise the rear of the vehicle, and place it
securely on axle stands.
2Fully release the handbrake lever, then
apply the brakes firmly several times with the
footbrake pedal.
3Pull the handbrake lever up five clicks.
4Tighten or loosen the adjusting nuts by
equal amounts until the rear brake shoes just
begin to drag on the brake drum. You should
feel the same amount of resistance at both
wheels when you rotate them.
5Release the handbrake lever, and verify that
the wheels rotate freely. If they don’t, re-
adjust them.
Rear disc brake models
Note: The handbrake system is not self-
adjusting on models with rear disc brakes. The
handbrake therefore requires periodic
adjustment to compensate for wear. It should
also be adjusted anytime either cable, brake
disc or handbrake assembly is renewed or
removed for some reason.
6Slowly apply the handbrake, and count the
number of clicks at the lever. If the lever can
be pulled up further than the eighth click,
adjust the handbrake cable as follows.
7Peel back the handbrake lever boot, and
loosen the cable adjusting nut (see
illustration 10.1). On some models, it may be
necessary to remove the centre console
completely for access.
8Loosen a single bolt in each rear wheel.Raise the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands.
9Remove the bolt you loosened in each rear
wheel. Turn the wheel until, using a torch, you
can see the adjuster starwheel through the
bolt hole.
10Turn the adjuster - clockwise to expand
the shoes, anti-clockwise to retract them -
until the brake shoes just contact the brake
drum (see illustration 5.6d). Back off the
brake shoes so the wheel spins freely (three to
four teeth on the adjuster). Note:If the
adjuster starwheel is hard to turn, remove the
wheel and brake disc, lubricate the adjuster
wheel, and try again.
11With the disc fitted, apply the handbrake
three times to stretch and seat the cables,
then slowly pull up on the handbrake lever to
the fifth click. Tighten the cable adjusting nuts
by equal amounts until the rear brake shoes
just touch the brake drum. Verify that both
wheels have the same amount of resistance.
12Release the handbrake, and verify that
both rear wheels rotate freely.
13Tighten the wheel bolts to the torque
listed in Chapter 1 Specifications.
12 Handbrake assembly-
check, removal and refitting
2
Warning: The handbrake linings
on rear disc brake models may
be manufactured of asbestos-
based material. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 6. When
servicing these components, do not create
dust by grinding or sanding the linings.
1The handbrake system should be checked
regularly. With the vehicle parked on a hill,
apply the handbrake, select neutral, and
check that the handbrake alone will hold the
vehicle when the footbrake is released (be
sure to stay in the vehicle during this check).
However, every 2 years (or whenever a fault is
suspected), the assembly itself should be
inspected.
2With the vehicle raised and supported onaxle stands, remove the rear wheels.
3On rear brake drum models, refer to
Chapter 1; checking the thickness of the
brake shoes is a routine maintenance
procedure.
4On rear disc brake models, remove the rear
discs as outlined in Section 5. Support the
caliper assemblies with a coat hanger or
heavy wire; do not disconnect the brake line
from the caliper.
5With the disc removed, the handbrake
components are visible, and can be inspected
for wear and damage. The linings should last
the life of the vehicle. However, they can wear
down if the handbrake system has been
improperly adjusted, or if the handbrake is
regularly used to stop the vehicle. There is no
minimum thickness specification for the
handbrake shoes, but as a rule of thumb, if
the shoe material is less than 1.5 mm thick,
you should renew them. Also check the
springs and adjuster mechanism and inspect
the drum for deep scratches and other
damage.
Removal and refitting
Note:The following procedure applies only to
models with rear disc brakes. The handbrake
system on models with rear drum brakes is an
integral part of the rear brake assembly (see
Section 6).
6Loosen the rear wheel bolts, raise the rear
of the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Remove the
brake discs (see Section 5). Work on only one
side at a time, so you can use the other side
as a reference during reassembly, and to
avoid mixing up parts.
7Remove the shoe return and hold-down
springs (see illustrations).
8Remove the shoes (see illustration).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. When
you’re done, the actuator should be properly
seated between the two shoes as shown (see
illustration).
10After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two wheel
bolts, turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.6d)
and expand the shoes until the disc locks,
9•12 Braking system
12.7b Remove the upper shoe
return spring12.7a Remove the lower shoe return
spring (diagonal cutting pliers are being
used here because they grip the spring
well, but care must be taken not to cut or
nick the spring)

then back off the adjuster until the shoes
don’t drag (see Section 11). Refit the wheel
bolts, and tighten them to the torque given in
Chapter 1 Specifications.
13 Brake pedal- adjustment
1
Note:You should always adjust brake pedal
height after the master cylinder or brake servo
has been removed or renewed. You should
also adjust the stop-light switch (see Sec-
tion 14).
1Measure the distance between the lower
edge of the brake pedal footpad (ie the edge
furthest from the bulkhead) and the bulkhead
(see illustration), and compare your
measurement with the dimension listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s not as listed,
loosen the locknut on the pushrod, and rotatethe pushrod while holding the clevis stationary
until the distance is correct. Note:On right-
hand-drive models, the adjustment is carried
out at the left-hand side of the cross-shaft,
after removing the glovebox, but the
dimension is still measured at the pedal.
14 Stop-light switch-
check and adjustment
1
Note:The stop-light switch should be
checked and, if necessary, adjusted after the
master cylinder or brake servo has been
removed or renewed.
1The stop-light switch is located on a
bracket at the top of the brake pedal. The
switch activates the brake lights whenever the
pedal is depressed.
2With the brake pedal in the rest position,
measure the distance between the switch
contact point on the brake pedal and the
switch housing (see illustration)and
compare your measurement with dimension A
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
3If your measurement is outside theindicated dimension, disconnect the wires
from the switch. Loosen the locknuts, screw
the switch in or out until the plunger
dimension is correct, and retighten the
locknuts. Reconnect the wires and check for
correct operation.
15 Brake hoses and lines-
inspection and renewal
4
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Inspection
1At the intervals specified in Chapter 1, the
brake hoses and lines should be inspected.
With the vehicle raised and placed securely
on axle stands, the flexible hoses should be
checked for cracks, chafing of the outer
cover, leaks, blisters and other damage.
These are important and vulnerable parts of
the brake system, and inspection should be
thorough. The metal pipes should be checked
for excessive pitting and corrosion. If a hose
or pipe exhibits any of the conditions
described, renew it.
Flexible hose renewal
2Clean all dirt away from the ends of the
hose. Have ready a suitable container to catch
spilled brake fluid when the hose is
disconnected.
3To disconnect the hose at the chassis end,
use a spanner to hold the hex-shaped fitting
on the end of the flexible hose, and loosen the
nut on the metal brake line (see illustration).
If the nut is stuck, soak it with penetrating oil.
After the hose is disconnected from the metal
line, remove the spring clip from the bracket
and detach the hose from the bracket.
4To detach the flexible hose from the caliper,
Braking system 9•13
12.9 When you’re done, the actuator
should be properly seated between the
two shoes as shown (hub removed for
clarity)12.8 Remove the shoes12.7c Remove the shoe hold-down springs
14.2 To adjust the stop-light switch,
loosen the locknuts (1) and screw the
switch (2) in or out until dimension A is
correct
13.1 To adjust the brake pedal height,
loosen the locknut (1) and turn the
pushrod (2) while holding the clevis (3) until
dimension A (the distance between the
lower edge of the brake pedal and the
bulkhead/”firewall”) is within the range
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (left-
hand-drive shown, right-hand-drive similar)
9
A torch and mirror will prove
helpful for a complete hose
and line check.

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front suspension
Strut damper rod nut
Rod with external hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Rod with internal hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Strut cartridge threaded collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Strut upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Front control arm (3-Series)
Control arm-to-steering knuckle balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . 64
Control arm-to-subframe balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Control arm bush bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Lower control arm (5-Series)
Control arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . 85
Control arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Thrust arm (5-Series)
Thrust arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . . 85
Thrust arm through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Front hub (wheel bearing) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Steering arm-to-strut bolts (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Anti-roll bar (3-Series)
Anti-roll bar-to-connecting link bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets-to-subframe . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link bracket-to-control arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar (5-Series)
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Anti-roll bar link-to-strut housing locknut
Yellow chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
White chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
10•2 Suspension and steering systems
Torque wrench settingsNm
Rear suspension
Rear shock absorber (3-Series)
Shock absorber-to-upper mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15
Shock absorber-to-trailing arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Rear shock absorber (5-Series)
Lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 to 142
Upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Upper spring mounting-to-shock absorber locknut . . . . . 22 to 24
Trailing arms (3-Series)
Trailing arm-to-lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Trailing arm-to-anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 23
Trailing arms (5-Series)
Trailing arm-to-rear axle carrier (rubber bush
through-bolt and nut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Trailing arm-to-axle carrier connecting link (1983-on) . . . 126
Rear wheel bearing drive flange axle nut (5-Series)
M22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 to 210
M27 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 to 260
Steering system
Steering wheel retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering gear-to-subframe mounting bolts (3-Series) . . . . . 41
Steering box-to-front suspension subframe bolts (5-Series) 42
Track rod end-to-steering arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Track rod end clamping bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Pitman arm-to-steering box (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Steering linkage balljoints (all) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, new ones fitted, of the same
part number or of original-equipment
quality and design. Torque specifications
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Any bent or
damaged parts must be renewed.
The front suspension (see illustrations)is a
MacPherson strut design. The struts are
secured at the upper ends to reinforced areas
at the top of the wheel arches, and at the
lower ends to the steering arms/control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the control arms
via connecting links, and to the suspension
subframe (3-Series models) or the underbody
(5-Series models).
The independent rear suspension system
on 3-Series models (see illustration)features
coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers.
The upper ends of the shock absorbers are
attached to the body; the lower ends are
connected to trailing arms. An anti-roll bar is
attached to the trailing arms via links, and to
the body with clamps.
The independent rear suspension system on
5-Series models (see illustration)uses coil-over shock absorber units instead of separate
shock absorbers and coil springs. The upper
ends are attached to the body; the lower ends
are connected to the trailing arms. The rear
suspension of 5-Series models is otherwise
similar to that of 3-Series models: two trailing
arms connected by an anti-roll bar.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint shaft, the steering gear, the powersteering pump (where fitted) and the steering
linkage, which connects the steering gear to
the steering arms. On 3-Series models, a
rack-and-pinion steering gear is attached
directly to the steering arms via the track rods
and track rod ends. On 5-Series models, a
recirculating-ball steering box is connected to
the steering arms via a Pitman arm, a centre
track rod, the outer track rods and the track
rod ends.
1.1a Front suspension and steering components (3-Series models)
1 Subframe 3 Anti-roll bar link 5 Strut 7 Steering gear
2 Anti-roll bar 4 Control arm 6 Track rod end

2 Front anti-roll bar-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
2If you’re removing or renewing the anti-roll
bar itself, or disconnecting the bar to renew
the strut assembly on a 3-Series model,
disconnect it from the anti-roll bar links (see
illustrations). If you’re renewing the strut
assembly on a 5-Series model, disconnect the
anti-roll bar link from the strut housing.
3On 3-Series models, disconnect the left
control arm rubber bush from the underbody
(see Section 3).
4Remove the bolts from the anti-roll bar
brackets which attach the anti-roll bar to the
subframe (see illustration).
5Remove the anti-roll bar from the vehicle.
Where necessary, separate the anti-roll bar
from the strut bar bracket.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure to tighten all nuts and
bolts to the torques listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
3 Control arm (3-Series)-
inspection, removal and
refitting, and bush renewal
3
Inspection
1Raise the front end of the vehicle, and
support it securely on axle stands.
2Grip the top and bottom of each balljoint
with a large pair of water pump (“parrot jaw”)
pliers, and squeeze to check for free play.
Alternatively, insert a lever or large
screwdriver between the control arm and the
subframe or strut housing. If there’s any free
play, renew the control arm (the balljoints
can’t be renewed separately).
3Inspect the rubber bush. If it’s cracked, dry,
torn or otherwise deteriorated, renew it (see
below).
Bush renewal
Note:Rubber bushes should always be
renewed in pairs. Make sure both new bushes
have the same markings (indicating they’re
manufactured by the same firm).
4Remove the two bolts (see illustration)which
attach the bush bracket to the underbody.
5Using a puller, remove the bracket andbush from the end of the control arm. If the
puller slips on the end of the control arm,
centre-punch the control arm to give the
puller bolt a place to seat.
6Note the orientation of the old bush. This is
exactly how the new bush should be
orientated when it’s fitted. Press the old
rubber bush out of the bracket, or have it
pressed out by an engineering works.
7Coat the end of the control arm with BMW’s
special lubricant (Part No. 81 22 9 407 284),
and press the new bush and bracket onto the
arm - or have it pressed on at an engineering
works - all the way to the stop.
Caution: Don’t try to use any
other type of lubricant;
30 minutes after it’s applied, this
lubricant loses its properties and
the bush is permanently located in its
proper position. Make sure the new bush
is pressed on so it’s orientated exactly the
same way as the old bush.
8Refit the bracket bolts and tighten them to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
9Lower the vehicle, and leave it at rest for at
least 30 minutes (this will give the special
lubricant time to dry).
Control arm removal and
refitting
Note:If either balljoint is worn or damaged,
the only way to renew it is to renew the control
arm. If you’re fitting a new control arm, a new
bush must also be fitted. The old bush can’t
be removed from the old control arm and re-
used in the new control arm.
10Loosen but do not remove the wheel
bolts, raise the front of the vehicle and
support it on axle stands. Remove the wheel
bolts and the front wheel.
11Remove the two bolts which attach the
rubber bush bracket to the underbody (see
illustration 3.4).
12Remove the nut which secures the control
arm balljoint to the subframe, and remove the
balljoint stud from the subframe. Note:It may
be necessary to use a balljoint separator to
separate the balljoint from the subframe (see
illustration), but take care not to damage the
10•4 Suspension and steering systems
3.12 Remove the self-locking nut from the
balljoint stud protruding through the top of
the subframe (not shown in this photo, but
it’s directly above the balljoint) and
separate the balljoint from the subframe.
Try not to damage the dust boot
3.4 Remove the two bolts (arrowed)
securing the bush bracket to the
underbody
2.4 Remove the bolts (arrowed) from the
anti-roll bar brackets to detach the anti-
roll bar from the subframe (3-Series model
shown, 5-series similar)2.2b On 5-Series models, remove the nut
(arrowed) securing the anti-roll bar to the
connecting link (left side shown, right side
similar)2.2a On 3-Series models, remove the nut
(upper arrow) securing the anti-roll bar to
the upper end of the connecting link (left
side shown, right side similar). If a new
control arm is being fitted, remove the
lower nut (lower arrow) and disconnect the
link assembly and bracket from the arm

dust boot. If the boot does become damaged
(and you’re refitting the same control arm and
balljoint), be sure to fit a new boot.
13Unscrew the nut which secures the outer
control arm balljoint to the steering knuckle
(see illustration)and detach the balljoint stud
from the knuckle (see illustration). Ideally you
should use a purpose-made balljoint
separator tool for this job. Using a hammer is
OK if you’re going to fit new parts anyway, but
is not recommended if you’re planning to re-
use parts.
14Remove the control arm.15If you’re renewing the control arm, you’ll
have to fit a new bush (see above). The old
bush can’t be removed re-used in another
control arm.
16Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to use new self-locking nuts on the balljoint
studs and tighten them, and the bush bracket
bolts, to the torques listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
17When you’re finished, have the front
wheel alignment checked by a dealer service
department or qualified garage.
4 Control and thrust arms
(5-Series)- inspection, removal
and refitting and bush renewal
3
Inspection
1Inspect the thrust arm rubber bush (see
illustration 4.6b). If the bush is cracked, torn
or otherwise deteriorated, renew it. The
control arm bush can’t be inspected until the
control arm is removed.
2Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
3To inspect the control arm and thrust arm
balljoints for wear, grip the top and bottom of
each balljoint with a large pair of water pump
(“parrot jaw”) pliers, and try to squeeze them.
Alternatively, use a lever or large screwdriver
to move them up and down. If there’s any free
play, renew the control arm or thrust arm. The
balljoints can’t be renewed separately.
Removal
Note:If a balljoint is worn or damaged, the
only way to renew it is to renew the control
arm or thrust arm. If you’re fitting a new
control arm or thrust arm, a new bush must
also be fitted. The old bush can’t be removed
from the old control arm or thrust arm and re-
used in the new arm.
4Loosen the wheel bolts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
5If you’re removing the control arm, remove
the three bolts from the steering arm (see
illustration)and separate the strut assembly
from the arm.
6Remove the nut and the through-bolt that
secure the control arm or thrust arm rear
mounting (see illustrations).
7Remove the nut from the balljoint (see
illustration). Support the steering arm and
separate the balljoint from the steering arm
(see illustrations). Ideally you should use a
purpose-made balljoint separator tool for this
job. Using a hammer is OK if you’re going to
fit new parts anyway, but is not recommended
if you’re planning to re-use parts.
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
4.5 If you’re removing the control arm,
remove the three bolts (arrowed) from the
steering arm, and separate the strut
assembly from the arm
3.13b . . . give the steering knuckle a few
sharp knocks with a hammer to release
the balljoint stud from the strut housing,
and remove the control arm3.13a Remove the self-locking nut from
the balljoint stud which attaches the outer
end of the control arm to the steering
knuckle. If you don’t have a balljoint
separator tool . . .
4.7b You can separate the thrust arm
balljoint from the steering arm with a
puller . . .
4.6a If you’re removing the control arm,
remove the self-locking nut and the
through-bolt (arrowed) that attach the
inner end of the arm to the vehicle
4.7a Remove the self-locking nut (control
arm nut, left arrow; thrust arm nut, right
arrow) from the balljoint, then support the
steering arm, and press or knock the
balljoint out of the steering arm
4.6b If you’re removing the thrust arm,
remove the nut and bolt (arrowed) that
secure the rear end of the arm
10